The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body

[DeadlyPeace]

I like the orange and white, I think it will look really good like that. You have any plans with a grille for the front?

[46&2]

I like the orange and white, I think it will look really good like that. You have any plans with a grille for the front?

X2. Personally I would like it if the white was black but then your tube work wouldnt stand out as much. I dont know how much of a contrast you are looking for, but the white and orange does look really good.

[Yota87Truck]

Go orange all the way!!!

[4RnrRick]

You have any plans with a grille for the front?

From page 2.... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=37942.msg472424#msg472424

I'm thinking about something like this for a grill.



But I'm not sure if I will have the room for it.

[4RnrRick]

I'm uploading another picture with a more accurate tint of orange for what the color I'm actually using is...... before it was kinda a Sherbert Orange and the actual color is more of a Safety Tangerine Orange...

[Mossyrocks]

I dont know that Id do white with the orange, looks too much like a tn vols sami at that point.  I like the orange there though...   maybe silver instead of white?

[Yota87Truck]

I dont know that Id do white with the orange, looks too much like a tn vols sami at that point.  I like the orange there though...   maybe silver instead of white?

Looks too much like a what Sami???  And I like the orange and white... reminds me of a tasty creamsickle...

[46&2]

From page 2.... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=37942.msg472424#msg472424

I'm thinking about something like this for a grill.



But I'm not sure if I will have the room for it.

That grill idea is freakin' sick!! I hope you can find room for it, simply bad ass.

[DeadlyPeace]

From page 2.... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=37942.msg472424#msg472424

I'm thinking about something like this for a grill.



But I'm not sure if I will have the room for it.

Awe yeah, know I remember seeing that before. Just forgot about it.


As fortysixandtwo said "I hope you can find room for it, simply bad ass." Or at least make something fairly close to it.



Also was thinking about the white. Were you going to use just plan white (flat, gloss, etc)? I was just thinking that a eggshell(?) white (white w/ a light tan) might look real good with the orange. I'm guessing that you want it to match the canvas top, but can quite tell what shade of white it actually is.

[Jordan7118]

Looks too much like a what Sami???

Tennessee Volunteers - college colors is what Mossyrocks was refering to. TN vols, Tenn. vols, you get the drift...

[4RnrRick]

just stock sami white, since thats the original color of it.......

[DeadlyPeace]

Are planning on repainting the white? The top in that pic looks close to what I was thinking of. If you repaint the white then you could match the color of the top to make them blend together more. Just a thought.

[4RnrRick]

Or I could just "clean" the top........

BTW, your sig. is huge and annoying............... 

[kiyul4130]

Or I could just "clean" the top........

BTW, your sig. is huge and annoying............... 

i know have the time i think its a reply...

[4RnrRick]

Haven't done much lately on it - I got the OBA bracket TIG welded and its now installed. I also got some 1200 degree silver ceramic paint on the down pipe and re-installed it. Then I bought some more material for my rear links.  And I placed another order with Ballistic Fab for more link ends and some tube adapters.

So this supension link materials using:



FRONT: 3-link + panhard

Lower links non-adjustable
2.00 OD x .281 wall grade 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
2.63 Flexx Joints with 9/16 grade 8 bolts

Upper link
1.88 OD x .188 wall 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
1" Heim x 1 1/4" shank with 9/16 grade 8 bolts.

Panhard
1.25 OD x .250 wall 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
3/4" Chromoly Heim x 3/4" shank with 3/4 grade 5 bolts



REAR: double triangulated 4-link

Lower links non-adjustable
2.00 OD x .281 wall grade 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
2.63 Flexx Joints with 9/16 grade 8 bolts

Upper Links
1.88 OD x .188 wall 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
2.63 Flexx Joints with 1 1/4" shank and 9/16 grade 8 bolts.

[THK Matt]

i know have the time i think its a reply...

[THK Matt]

Haven't done much lately on it - I got the OBA bracket TIG welded and its now installed. I also got some 1200 degree silver ceramic paint on the down pipe and re-installed it. Then I bought some more material for my rear links.  And I placed another order with Ballistic Fab for more link ends and some tube adapters.

So this supension link materials using:



FRONT: 3-link + panhard

Lower links non-adjustable
2.00 OD x .281 wall grade 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
2.63 Flexx Joints with 9/16 grade 8 bolts

Upper link
1.88 OD x .188 wall 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
1" Heim x 1 1/4" shank with 9/16 grade 8 bolts.

Panhard
1.25 OD x .250 wall 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
3/4" Chromoly Heim x 3/4" shank with 3/4 grade 5 bolts



REAR: double triangulated 4-link

Lower links non-adjustable
2.00 OD x .281 wall grade 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
2.63 Flexx Joints with 9/16 grade 8 bolts

Upper Links
1.88 OD x .188 wall 1026 DOM (70 ksi Yeild)
2.63 Flexx Joints with 1 1/4" shank and 9/16 grade 8 bolts.

Baller

[4RnrRick]

I know. Half the time, I think its a reply...

fixed

[kiyul4130]

thanks.... whats .281 wall considered? like 5/16?

[4RnrRick]

.250 = 1/4"
.28125 = 9/32"
.3125 = 5/16"

[DeadlyPeace]

BTW, your sig. is huge and annoying............... 

Sorry, didn't mean to annoy anybody with it.

[joeshmo]

i know im backtracking alot here, how did you like your buggy leafs on your previous rigs?  thinking of going that route, im on my first build and im not sure im capable of a link suspension

[4RnrRick]

joeshmo - I don't want to clutter up this thread, so search pirate4x4 for my detailed comments about "buggy leafs". Basically, if I built another leaf spring rig - I would run them again without any hesitation in the rear! The only other thing you need is a traction bar.

[Redbeard1]

updates?

[4RnrRick]

The two piece front driveline that I've been using for mock up was given to me. When I removed the OEM carrirer bearing I found that someone previously had ground the hell out of it trying to replace a carrier brearing..



I'm not sure what vehicle it came from (assuming second gen extra cab toyota), but it was the perfect length for what I needed - so I headed to the wrecking yard with a tape measure. Well I had no luck finding and identical shaft, so I got one that was slightly longer with the plan to just shorten it. And thankfully this one hadn't been ground on. Also since this shaft is going to be protected by a full skid plate, I see no reason to make it a heavy wall driveline.

So I just cut the yoke off one end, then I cut the tube off to length to match the first mock-up shaft, tapped the yoke back on it with a hammer and threw it into my driveline jig and welded it up.





For more info on the driveline jig, you can read about it here:
2 1/2" Sch. 40 Pipe Drivelines Made Easy
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=589995

[4RnrRick]

Now for the next issue - my plan for the front part of the driveline is to use a early toyota (high misalignment) CV, but the problem with these is they use the large toyota flange bolt pattern which require a 4 3/8" diameter flange. All the two piece front drivelines I could find at the wrecking yard use a 4" diameter flange. Well you might think that the aftermarket tripple drilled T-case and Pinoin flanges are interchangeable with the two piece intermediate driveline flange - but ithey are not, the spline diameter is smaller on the two piece intermediate driveline flange - thus they are not interchangeable. Bummer....

So heres my "budget" solution. I would just build up the flange diameter with weld around the the places I plan to double drill the flanges and grind it down smooth. I have double drilled the smaller flanges before, but its makes them paper thin and thought this was a good budget solution. I don't see any issues with doing this other than it looks weird. If I had a Lathe, I could do it all the way around the flange, and then machine it & you would never see it in the end, but I don't.





A couple other ideas is to cut the splines out and weld the smaller spline collar to the larger flange. thats too ghetto for me to do, but it would probably work.

Another idea would be to make Rock Rat type adapter that I could just bolt onto a small flange that had the large and small bolt pattern in it. That would be cleaner, but it would take some work to get the yoke holes aligned properly in that adapter so both yokes on the ends of that shaft stay aligned, otherwise it would create driveline vibs. So I'm sure you would have to make it specific for this application.

The last idea was I could use a taco CV joint since it uses the small toyota bolt pattern, but it has a few degrees less movement than the early mini truck CV's. If my current booty fab doesn't work, this is what I will do if it doesn't limit my travel.

Plus I have already have two long heavy-wall early toyota CV driveshafts that I plan to shorten for this build, so for me it makes sense in doing this.

[TheCookieMonster]

nice man ...great work on the tuki

[jarboarder1]

good stuff! I'm Really enjoying this build.

[Derracer]

Any updates for the evening crowd?

[THK Matt]

nice solutions rick.