The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body

[Redbeard1]

All it takes is time and pressure...

[4RnrRick]

Here's what gives me hope - Rick hasn't always been this good.

Ain't that the truth! Yeah, that steering box mount was ghetto - but even at that it worked. I knew that it wasn't perfect then - I just didn't have the time, patience or the tools to make a nice mount. That was what - 7 years ago and since then I've learned.

[79coyotefrg]

   your always  here Rick 

[Jordan7118]

Ain't that the truth! Yeah, that steering box mount was ghetto - but even at that it worked. I knew that it wasn't perfect then - I just didn't have the time, patience or the tools to make a nice mount. That was what - 7 years ago and since then I've learned.

I feel that. Time, patience, and tools can accomplish almost anything. You apparently have a knack for having great patience with little time and innovative tooling. That's really what makes it all neat to me. Keep it comin! 

[MiniSimp]

   your always  here Rick 

Well, at least I got to read it before it was removed. Good read.

[4RnrRick]

Minisimp
I asked "79coyotefrg" to remove that quote because I feel it doesn't need to be spread onto MCI site! If you want the details - go to that other site and read that other thread....

[MiniSimp]

Minisimp
I asked "79coyotefrg" to remove that quote because I feel it doesn't need to be spread onto MCI site! If you want the details - go to that other site and read that other thread....

Saw that, I'm surprised it wasn't deleted from there also.

Anyway, back to the build.

How did the passenger side line up with the cutout tube when compressed? Did you try it compressed with the steering cranked?

[4RnrRick]

Everything lines up fine so far - Next step is to clean and tap the FJ box for hydro assist - then I get to put the steering on. I did turn the tires by hand and they clear the frame rails and the links from lock to lock with the 39.5 Iroks on 15x10 rims with NO wheel spacers. won't know if I have to run spacers or not until I mock of the coilover location and test flex the front.

[MiniSimp]

Makes sense, the frame is a lot narrower.

So are you estimating around 50* total flex front and rear?

[THK Matt]

50*?

[4RnrRick]

 

This isn't a RC Crawler..... (where people talk about axle articulation in degrees) I would like to be able to about flex 40" with one tire lifted and all tires at trail air pressure. a quick calc shows that to be around 40 degrees.

I'm planning on running 14" coilovers up front (already have those) and I have yet to buy the rear ones since mounting is still a huge issue back there and if I mount them to the lower links, then I will need shorter ones..

[THK Matt]

This isn't a RC Crawler..... (where people talk about axle articulation in degrees) I would like to be able to about flex 40" with one tire lifted and all tires at trail air pressure. a quick calc shows that to be around 40 degrees.

I'm planning on running 14" coilovers up front (already have those) and I have yet to buy the rear ones since mounting is still a huge issue back there and if I mount them to the lower links, then I will need shorter ones..

Tropy trucks (class 7)  run there coilovers to the lower links (trailing arms) and STILL have great articulation.
i think that would be a great place to mount them Rick.

[MiniSimp]

This isn't a RC Crawler..... (where people talk about axle articulation in degrees)

Sorry, I always deal in degrees. I was thinking 50* since your front alone is 27*

[4RnrRick]

But that picture has no reference as to the actual coilover travel possible or interference issues with the tires and the coilovers...

With most decent link setups, they all look impressive without shocks/coilovers because they are designed to flex a long ways without binding beyond what the shocks/coilovers could allow. I'm sure if I bothered to lift the frame up higher it would look even more impressive.

I'm sure it will flex nice, but I'm not building it to be a flex monster. especially if you look at how tight the rear end is going to be tring to get the coilover inbetween the tires and the rear wheelwells.

[MiniSimp]

Got it.

[Mossyrocks]

its lookin real nice rick.  patience is top notch 

[NorCalBorn]

Rick, please check your pm's and get back to me.

[4RnrRick]

The FJ-80 Box is now tapped for Hydro Assist.

[4RnrRick]

I wanted to mention some stuff about tapping a FJ-80 box for Hydro Assist.
First and foremost is hats off to these guys: Carl and Vonski @ RockLogic4x4
and their article WildYoats. I've been refering people to this article for years!

http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm 

Now granted they show a Toyota IFS box (reward facing pitman arm) which is
basicaly the same as a FJ80 steering box except it turns the opposite direction
since it has a forward facing pitman arm.

So I wanted to abbreviate a few differences in dealing with the FJ80 box. (Its
my understanding that the FJ-80 box is also identical to the FJ55/60/62.)

STEPS:

0.) Remove and thoroughly clean outside of the steering box.

1.) Center the pitman arm.

3.) Remove the pitman arm.

4.) Remove top 4 bolts above sector shaft, 14 mm.

5.) Remove Sector Shaft.

6.) Turn input shaft so internal piston moves toward input end.

IFS box - CounterClockWise
FJ80 box - ClockWise

7.) Remove centering valve, 10mm allen. (if required)

8.) Remove 4 bolts from input shaft housing, 14 mm.

9.) Remove input shaft, don't let the internal piston spin off the input shaft.

10.) Clean the housing and stuff rags into sector shaft bearings and seals.

11.) Drill and tap housing. Typically on IFS boxes, people tap one hole in the
top and then one on opposite side of the TOYODA. But I've found that the top
hole is really difficult on the FJ-80 boxes since there appears to be less meat in
the top of some of the steering box housings plus you can't drill completely
though the box in that location. So what I've see other people do and did
myself, was I tapped a hole in the end of the box. Anywhere in the end will work
fine.

12.) Clean out the shavings and re-assembly with some lube.

13.) Plumb box to ram assist cylinder.

IFS - Top/End hole has pressure when turning left,
IFS - Side hole (TOYODA) has pressure when turning right.

FJ80 Box - Top/End hole has pressure when turning right,
FJ80 Box - Side hole (TOYODA) has pressure when turning left.



Hopefully that helps you other guys when dealing with these reverse rotation FJ80 steering boxes.

[twistedtoy92]

very good info to know!!

[TheCookieMonster]

thanks rick

[madhunt]

keep up the good work and write up's.  dont let the other crap get to you.   

once again good job!!

[DeadlyPeace]

Awesome work as always. Great info on the steering pump too, thanks.

[46&2]

Very good information Rick! Thank you 

[Gittinit]

I wanted to mention some stuff about tapping a FJ-80 box for Hydro Assist.
First and foremost is hats off to these guys: Carl and Vonski @ RockLogic4x4
and their article WildYoats. I've been refering people to this article for years!

http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm 

Now granted they show a Toyota IFS box (reward facing pitman arm) which is
basicaly the same as a FJ80 steering box except it turns the opposite direction
since it has a forward facing pitman arm.

So I wanted to abbreviate a few differences in dealing with the FJ80 box. (Its
my understanding that the FJ-80 box is also identical to the FJ55/60/62.)

STEPS:

0.) Remove and thoroughly clean outside of the steering box.

1.) Center the pitman arm.

3.) Remove the pitman arm.

4.) Remove top 4 bolts above sector shaft, 14 mm.

5.) Remove Sector Shaft.

6.) Turn input shaft so internal piston moves toward input end.

IFS box - CounterClockWise
FJ80 box - ClockWise

7.) Remove centering valve, 10mm allen. (if required)

8.) Remove 4 bolts from input shaft housing, 14 mm.

9.) Remove input shaft, don't let the internal piston spin off the input shaft.

10.) Clean the housing and stuff rags into sector shaft bearings and seals.

11.) Drill and tap housing. Typically on IFS boxes, people tap one hole in the
top and then one on opposite side of the TOYODA. But I've found that the top
hole is really difficult on the FJ-80 boxes since there appears to be less meat in
the top of some of the steering box housings plus you can't drill completely
though the box in that location. So what I've see other people do and did
myself, was I tapped a hole in the end of the box. Anywhere in the end will work
fine.

12.) Clean out the shavings and re-assembly with some lube.

13.) Plumb box to ram assist cylinder.

IFS - Top/End hole has pressure when turning left,
IFS - Side hole (TOYODA) has pressure when turning right.

FJ80 Box - Top/End hole has pressure when turning right,
FJ80 Box - Side hole (TOYODA) has pressure when turning left.



Hopefully that helps you other guys when dealing with these reverse rotation FJ80 steering boxes.

You should add that info to this hydro assist thread. Thats some usefull info right there Rick.  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10579.0

[4RnrRick]

I drilled and tapped some holes in the bottom of the frame rail and installed the bump stops for the front axle. The little ones are factory Sami ones and the big one is from a Toyota. Anyways I did both bolt patterns so it would be easy for my to choose what size I wanted to run.

[4RnrRick]

Then I reworked the York OBA mount. It was hitting the top of the diff at full compression. So I trimmed off the bottom of the tensioner bracket and flipped the bolt over to the top side. I also had the grooves removed from the pulley so it can now run on the back side of the belt. I still need to go get it Tig welded since its Aluminum.

[4RnrRick]

Then I worked on my exhuast down pipe. Ideally I should have probably bought some mandel bends to make this but all my bends were going to be fairly gradual, so I decided to just cut the exhaust tubing at a sllight angle and just butt weld it all together. Worked out pretty good. Although it took a long time deburring every cut to make sure I had a smooth transition to welded up.

I also wanted to be able to remove the down pipe seperately if I needed to work on stuff. In the past I have used exhuast flanges to do that - but they always end up leaking for me - so I went down to the local mufller shop and had the make me a old school exhaust header ball joint to try. just for mock up I threw some springs in the holes of the flanges to hold it all together, but eventually it will be a bolted connection.







It definately a tight fit to get it around the driveline and bellhousing.





For an exhaust hanger, I just welded a tab to a exhaust clamp off one of the tranny bolts. BTW this is 2 1/4" exhaust.

[twistedtoy92]

very nice!

[THK Matt]

very nice and i like how you work around your problem areas and find ways to make it custom.... without having to rework a bigger part.... you find the smaller things to make the bigger problems go away....
very nice bro.... keep it up. its coming along