The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body

[crawlerdan]

good stuff. i need to do something. im going to tear down my front end someday soon, and do bigger brakes, a rebuild, and i gotta do something about the arms and studs

[4RnrRick]

Got a bunch more little plates cut out and tacked onto the arms....

yeah - its probably overkill !





Then I fully welded them and threw them into the sand again to slowly cool them.







Then I started mocking up the 1.5" bore x 6" stroke PSC ram for hydro assist.



It also looks like I can re-attach the old armor slightly lower on the axle to help protect the tie rod and the hydro assist cylinder.

[Ramrod]

looks good, I was sort of thining of using some of those arms on my truck when I link it but was just going to run them stock.  Yours are sick but probably overkill for sure

[Yota4life]

The arms look crazy at a glance, kinda cool but at leased they wont break with all the extra steel on them....

[Duffil]

The arms look crazy at a glance, kinda cool but at leased they wont break with all the extra steel on them....

nope, the knuckles will explode.

[skipnrocks]

nope, the knuckles will explode.

LOL much better!!!   better to overbuild than be sorry!!!

[Gittinit]

Your definately keepin the tie rod ends as your weak link, and with your limited space, thats a big plus. To top it off tie rod ends are fairly easy to replace on the trail.   

[DTB]

LOL much better!!!   better to overbuild than be sorry!!!

mines better the 21 stud mod.....patent pending

[skipnrocks]

Thats much better!!  If it wernt for the 800dollars of bolts and nuts on that it may be worth it!

[THK Matt]

mines better the 21 stud mod.....patent pending

[4RnrRick]

Yours are sick but probably overkill for sure

Thanks - Thats the idea!!!

[DeadlyPeace]

Yours are sick but probably overkill for sure

Thanks - Thats the idea!!!

Definitely should hold, and a lot easier to remove then........

mines better the 21 stud mod.....patent pending

[twistedtoy92]

whoa!!! thats overkill for sure!

[Jordan7118]

I believe that's photochopped "for sure" 

Rick, where is your drag link going to mount? 

EDIT: Now I remember - something about the FJ60 TREs that mount close the the end of the tie rod.

[Shoyrtt]

mines better the 21 stud mod.....patent pending

That belongs in the fontucky fab thread.

[Talon84x4]

If it's worth doing it's worth over doing. 

[4RnrRick]

Last night I work on my hydro assist mount some with more cardboard, but I don't have any real progress to show.

I also decided not to use my exist 5 stud knuckles (bolt through grease plug location) which means I would have to add even more steel to the arms and just go with some ARP knuckles studs from FROR - so I got those ordered today...

I also found out that my existing 6" stroke hydro assist ram is to short for these OEM arms. I need about 7" of stroke - So I'm going to buy a new ram.....

[Redbeard1]

You could go with the D44 knuckle studs in place of the Toyota studs... little extra work to redo the taper but the studs wont break.. ARP makes them too I have beat on a set for years on  my Chevy  the only ones I ever broke were the stock ones. 

[4RnrRick]

I don't think D44 studs and cone washers with stock arms would be a good idea - the OEM arms just don't have the extra meat around the knuckle stud holes like a aftermarket billet arm has.

[Redbeard1]

I don't think D44 studs and cone washers with stock arms would be a good idea - the OEM arms just don't have the extra meat around the knuckle stud holes like a aftermarket billet arm has.

Good point... I'll shut up now!

[4RnrRick]

Got the hydro assist cylinder mount done.







Then I cleaned up the garage and starting mocking up the front end...
Doing this I decided to push the front axle forward another 1 1/2" for around 13.5" forward of stock.







Since the air compressor, motor mount, oil filter, exhaust down pipe and two piece front driveline brearing support all need to be on the passenger side, that just leaves no room for a upper link above the diff, so I'm going to have to do the unconvential thing and put the upper link on the driver side (non-diff side) - I got lots of room over there..

Oh and everything shown in the pictures is about at full compression with 1 3/4" between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle tubes. That figures out to around a belly hieght of 16.5" with the 40" tires and full compression.

[skipnrocks]

Lookin good as usual!  The only thing I wonder about is the ability of the stock difcover to handle the torque from the hydro?  I know you like to overdoe things! Do you have any other plans to reinforce that area?

[crawlerdan]

that looks over built to me, its not directly welded to the diff, itd welded to a plate and then to the diff, or so it looks.

so it appears as tough in that area rick has effectively doubled that wall thickness

[Redbeard1]

that is just sweet!!

[skipnrocks]

Doubling the area where the bracket is only redirects all the stress to the first point that isnt double up, IDK iI think I would maybe suggest one more flat piece completing the bracket across the diff plate to the other side to send all the stress around the cover and into the meat of the diff. IDK since its just assist,  probably just parenoya from when I was an engenering student, we always had to moniter stresses and where it was being transfered too.

[4RnrRick]

The diff will be fine....With how I did it, I'm redistributing the load to a larger surface area (weld wise) by plating the cover of the diff and then welding the tabs to that... plus its also tied into the mohawk in from of the ring gear.

[crawlerdan]

looks good rick

[DeadlyPeace]

Looking real good, great progress. Can't wait to see it rolling.

[4RnrRick]

Well the snow is falling again here, so I had to go play in it some. The wife is going to kick my a$$ for using one of her good bra's - but it was worth it!

[skipnrocks]

Ha ha!  LOL