The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body

[crawlerdan]

well the good thing about *most* subaru based master cylendersm is the have potrs on both sides, use the ones you need and plug teh others, all that is requires is a drill and tap

[4RnrRick]

Okay I reworked the driver side motor mount (raised it) to get a little more room on the brake master cylinder. I did have the Plenum at 0 degrees and now its at 2.5 degrees which is pretty much identical to how its mounted in a Taco. That gave me a little more clearance.



And just for kicks I figured I would try looking at the fitment stock Sami MC - its quite a bit shorter, but its kinda small at 7/8 bore.



Then I noticed that the reservior on my 1" bore toyota FJ-80 / 4runner MC has the same center to center distance as the subie MC Reservior. So I tried swapping reserviors. Which gave me more clearance, but the reserviors are designed differetely and there just isn't a good way to secure that res to the subie MC.



BTW - the sami reservior will not fit the subie MC.

[4RnrRick]

But I did notice that you can take the Subie reservior and install it backwards. so instead of it pointing forward, it points backwards.



Here is the clearance I ended up with doing that. Looks good enough for now......



Next up is to start hacking the tranny tunnel, so I can install the rest of the drivetrain!

[crawlerdan]

i shoulda known that, doh!!

good job rick!

[toyotanner]

i like the subtitles in the pictures. nice build!!!!

[THK Matt]

lookin good rick

[awhotrods]

 

[MiniSimp]

Good write up as always Rick. I think I'm going to have to copy the "text on the picture" thing, it's a great way to keep things straight.

[4RnrRick]

Got the tranny Mocked up. I ended up trimming about 2" away from the passenger side and 1" away from the driver side the full length of the tranny tunnel.

[THK Matt]

oooooo more progress

[4RnrRick]

I only got about an 1 hour in the garage tonight....

But I got the Toyota Dual T-cases installed...





And you can see here, its going to have a flat belly. Marlins Billet Rotated 10 degree adapter helps out there.....





I also got started working on trimming the factory tunnel pieces I removed to make it look factory.

[Jud]

Thats lookin killer!

[4RnrRick]

Not much progress this weekend, guess I've been playing "HellGate: London" too much...

But I did finally buy a propane heater for the garage, so thats going to make it much nicer
to work out there for the next couple months.

It took me way too much time to get the front part of the tranny tunnel tweaked around to make
it fit like I wanted, but I finally got it. After that - the rear part went pretty quick.

[fatt_matt]

looks good    keep it up!!

[4RnrRick]

Got my 39.5 Iroks and 15x10 rims today from 4WheelParts, then I hauled them right down to America's tires
to get (4) "road-hazard" tire certificates for them. That was like $35 ea., and well worth it in my opinoin!



To my amazement -  it looks like they actually balanced the tires... The worst tire had 4 oz on it! LOL
Also in the picture, you can barely see that there are steel lug nut inserts pressed into the lug holes.
Thats a nice feature I hadn't see before.

[4RnrRick]

Oh and I was also going to mention that I weighed them and it came out to 101 lbs each. Not bad.... Interco says the Irok's weight 76 lbs and Mickey Thompon says the rims weigh 19 lbs, which equal 95 lbs.

Heck my 36" iroks on on 15x10 steel rims weighted 105 lbs ea. brand new or 95 lbs bald.

[toyotanner]

39.5's i thought you were going 36's.  not that it matters the bigger the better!

[Jud]

Those wheels are nice!   

[4RnrRick]

39.5's i thought you were going 36's.  not that it matters the bigger the better!

what can I say....I upgraded.

[4RnrRick]

I finally decided that I'm going to reuse my old (FROR style) T-case mount that I made for Quasimodo. But this time instead of having the crossmember/flatbelly bolt on using urethane sleeves - I was just going to hard mount it directly to the frame rails with bolts and sleeves. So out came the cardboard for some gussets....





Then after some careful drilling, I sleeved the frame rail using 1/2" schedule 40 pipe for some 1/2" unc x 3" bolts.





So here is the inner gusset plate that is going to be fully welded to the frame.



Then the next picture shows how I'm going to make the T-case crossmember. And then I'm just going to weld some tabs on top of that, which the T-case mount will bolt to.



One side done, the other side to go.....

[toyotanner]

thats gonna be sweet. what color you gonna paint the sami?

[THK Matt]

wow your sami is going to be PIMP

[4RnrRick]

thats gonna be sweet. what color you gonna paint the sami?

Who says I'm going to paint it? News to me?

[THK Matt]

Who says I'm going to paint it? News to me?

he is going to beat on it... screw paint.

[toyotanner]

primer the multicolor look is good too

i mean i have black doors and a black hood although it all used to be orange

[THK Matt]

SLIVER's 4runner is proof multicolor.... IS BADASS!

but isnt the sami white and in decent shape... color wise rick?

[4RnrRick]

yes, the sami is white with a green hood.... I'm planning on keeping it all white, so the hood will get repainted eventually. But its not even on the list of things to do or even think about now! Especially with all the body mods I'd like to do.

[4RnrRick]

Well I finally decided on a radiator and got it ordered today.

The stock 1.3L Sami radiator has these dimensions.
Core Height (in): 14.875 in.
Core Width (in): 15.375 in.
Core Thickness (in): 1.000 in.
So that equals 229 cu in of cooling....

A stock 2.7 3rz Taco one as these dimensions.
Core Height (in): 20.625 in.
Core Thickness (in): 1.000 in.
Core Width (in): 25.625 in.
So that equals 529 cu in of cooling....

And in 2000, the Taco was upgraded to this.
Core Height (in): 22.625 in.
Core Thickness (in): 1.312 in.
Core Width (in): 25.250 in.
So that equals 750 cu in of cooling...

In my old Toyota, I have been running a V6 radiator with no overheating issues.
Core Height (in): 19.125 in.
Core Thickness (in): 2.000 in.
Core Width (in): 20.750 in.
So that equals 793 cu in of cooling...

But I also have friends running the stock 22RE radiator with no issues.
Core Height (in): 15.750 in.
Core Thickness (in): 1.250 in.
Core Width (in): 20.750 in.
So that equals 408 cu in of cooling...

So I wanted to find something around 500 cu in or more......

But heres my problem - I raised the frame rails and needed a radiator no larger than 23" wide and 15" tall. Otherwise it would hang down below the front frame rails and probably end up interfering with my steering. I've been searchign OEM radiator specs on Summit Racing for DAYS looking for off the shelf replacement. The best I found was a 1984 Bronco II radiator that was almost perfect, but even that one was atleast 3" too tall.

So here is what I finally found that was "kinda" an off the shelf radiator and wasn't fully custom built.

Summit Racing # AFC-80105N
Brand: AFCO
Product Line: AFCO Scirocco Style Drag Racing Radiators
Part Type: Radiators
Radiator Style: Scirocco
Overall Width (in): 21.500 in.
Overall Height (in): 13.250 in.
Overall Thickness (in): 3.000 in.
Row Quantity: Dual-row
Radiator Finish: Natural
Radiator Material: Aluminum
Transmission Cooler: No
Inlet Location: Upper driver side
Inlet Size: 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Location: Lower driver side
Outlet Size: 1 3/4 in.
Core Height (in): 12.500 in.
Core Thickness (in): 2.500 in.
Core Width (in): 18.000 in.
Tube Size: 1 in.
Price: ~$240

So that radiator gives me 563 cu in of cooling and it will fit between the frame rails and not hang down. Unfortionately the upper inlet is on the wrong side, so I have to deal with that, but everything else looks good. Plus it was in Stock and shipping was only $10 from Summit!



BTW - I've never seen a radiator with the inlet and outlet on the same side, so I can only assume that the left bank is capped off internally half way up to force the coolant to flow across the radiator to the far side and back again.

[4RnrRick]

Got the other side done tonight. I never used step drills before, but man it sure made it nice! Even these cheap HF bits worked great.





Then you guys might reconize this from Quasimodo.... I cut this crossmember out before I got rid of the rig because I was pretty sure I could just reuse it on Tuki....

[4RnrRick]

So I trimmed it to length and got that mocked up to the inner bolt on gussets I previously made. Now I can just unbolt this crossmember when I need to work on or around stuff. So it will be both my lower link mount crossmember and my T-case crossmember. But I still need to make and weld the tabs on top of it to secure it to the T-case.