The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body

Started by 4RnrRick, October 14, 2007, 09:24:42 PM

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Shoyrtt

Looking good :thumbs: Are you planning to put the latch/handle on the inside of the tailgate or the outside? :dunno:

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4RnrRick

Quote from: crawlerdan on December 23, 2007, 06:31:49 PM
would you consider yourself good at sheet metal work??
Not really.... I know just enough that I'm dangerious.


Quote from: MT4Runner on December 23, 2007, 06:51:12 PM
Rick, do you use body caulk or anything special?
No I didn't, but I might. I just needed to get some paint on the bare metal. I think there is something in the sami paint or factory sealer or something that when it gets hot from welding it must release something that causes new steel around it to start rusting.


Quote from: Shoyrtt on December 23, 2007, 08:18:50 PM
Are you planning to put the latch/handle on the inside of the tailgate or the outside?
I'm reusing the factory inside and outside latches. While its only on the driver side, it seems to work fine so far. I still need to fine some tailgate support cables, but functional it works great.

joeshmo

looking good rick, when are you planning for your first test drive?

Roc Doc

Hey Rick,

Just checking in to say Hi and wish you and your family a merry Christmas.

And remember, "don't sow your pearls before sows."   :greengrin:

Nice work as always.

doc
According to a recent study, 50% of all statistics are correct.

4RnrRick

Quote from: joeshmo on December 24, 2007, 09:42:50 AM
looking good rick, when are you planning for your first test drive?
Ah,  when its done....  :rofl2: I was shotting for January - but I don't see that happening. So I've decided to slow down some and focus on the details and just go with the flow.




Thanks Doc - Right back at ya!





Close ups of the relocated tailgate hinge.






Top of the wheel well....




I don't have a sheetmetal break, so I used a die grinder to help make the sharp bends I needed.






And the inner driver side wheel well


Duffil

After seeing this pic:


I wonder if you have plans to either drop the rear section of the tunnel and tie it into what is left to the factory unit, or maybe bring it all the way back into the rear section.  What are your thoughts on it?

4RnrRick

I haven't got that far yet design wise. kinda depends on how low I can mount the seats. I might have to notch out eash side for the seat sliders. So instead of finishing all that, I decided to just move onto other things.

MiniSimp

Looking good Rick, take a break! Merry Christmas! :beerchug:

fatt_matt

this build is one of my favorites, it'll be an awesome rig!
Jeep

THK Matt

2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

MT4Runner

Quote from: 4RnrRick on December 24, 2007, 09:34:12 AM
No I didn't, but I might. I just needed to get some paint on the bare metal. I think there is something in the sami paint or factory sealer or something that when it gets hot from welding it must release something that causes new steel around it to start rusting.

I recall Crash saying he had rust problems on the Secret Squirrel build, as well. 

Does it get confusing keeping up the thread here and on Zukicrawlers?

Happy New Year!!

4RnrRick

Yes, Now I understand what Crash was refering too....

BTW - This build up thread is also posted on a few other sites other than the ones you mentioned....No its not confusing.

vikingsven

Looks good Rick. Keep up the good work and don't let the TG/PBB incident slow you down.

:thumbs:

4RnrRick










I said early on..."Oh yeah, narrow the tailgate and convert it to fold down, comp cut the sides and sheetmetal it all back it - piece of cake...." Man this is taking me WAY longer than I thought it would - It sounded so simple and quick to do. Man was I wrong. I'm almost there!





MiniSimp

Quote from: 4RnrRick on December 28, 2007, 03:29:23 PMI said early on..."Oh yeah, narrow the tailgate and convert it to fold down, comp cut the sides and sheetmetal it all back it - piece of cake...." Man this is taking me WAY longer than I thought it would - It sounded so simple and quick to do. Man was I wrong. I'm almost there!
Yep, general rule: What ever time you think it will take you to complete a project, double it.

I have a feeling that your end result will be worth it though. :yesnod:

Duffil






I am sorry I have to ask this, but I am ignorant of good sheetmetal work.  What did you use to slice the scrap off of that plate?  cutoff wheel and a shitload of grinding to smooth it out?

jedrattle

Quote from: 4RnrRick on December 28, 2007, 03:29:23 PM




I said early on..."Oh yeah, narrow the tailgate and convert it to fold down, comp cut the sides and sheetmetal it all back it - piece of cake...." Man this is taking me WAY longer than I thought it would - It sounded so simple and quick to do. Man was I wrong. I'm almost





 

I have been thinking about doing this to my 4runner. I am just wasn't sure how to pull it off until I saw this. Man that looks like some work!!  Looks good though!
`87 runner....it was stock....now sas'd, 37's, duals, geared/ locked, 10in bob, half doors, rock lights. etc., etc.,.........coming soon a 3.4 swap!!!

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39332.0


www.rockbrawlers.com

THK Matt

2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

4RnrRick

Quote from: Duffil on December 28, 2007, 06:40:20 PM
I am sorry I have to ask this, but I am ignorant of good sheetmetal work.  What did you use to slice the scrap off of that plate?  cutoff wheel and a :pokinit:load of grinding to smooth it out?

Cutoff wheel to get the big pieces off...

then a grinder wheel to hog it down close...

then a flapper wheel to smooth it down to surface level...

Then more some spot welding to fill in the holes and connect the two pieces better...

Then more flapper wheel...

And finally a orbital sander to give it a consistant surface texture...

4RnrRick

#169
Well here is the current plan for the coilover location. I will have to attach them to the lower links, but I can handle that. I will just have to add some little anti rotation gizmo's to keep the links vertical, but its totally doable.







And now the interior mock up.... PRP pre-teen seat, 3 ammo cans for tools and spares, and the cardboard box is mock up for a fuel cell. right now it looks like I can eaisly fit a 12" X 12" X 20" slightly recess into in the floor which give me 12.5 gallons. I would like more fuel, but atleast this is a start.






Ramrod

are those tires spaced out to actual width? if so, nice

4RnrRick

In that picture, they are set at 61"WMS (aka: IFS rear + 1.5" spacers)

CTENG in KS

What type of anti-rotation gizmos are you considering?
IFS is best kept at ambient temperature in a pile of scrap in the backyard.  When kept under a functioning vehicle, it tends to greatly diminish said vehicle's offroad ability.     -reklund5

4Runner: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4580.0
Beastmaster: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=34339.0

topar

 :thumbsup: I just read this build for the first time.  I will be  :eye: :eye:

Yota4life

88 Toyota Pickup with some stuff...
Build up: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11133.160

4RnrRick

Quote from: CTENG in KS on December 29, 2007, 11:19:34 AM
What type of anti-rotation gizmos are you considering?

Its hard to describe, but I've seen several things on the trail.

CTENG in KS

I know the desert guys mount their coilovers below the centerline of the link to keep them upright.  Reason I ask is that I may go the same route on my rear links...I will run bushings at the axle and joints at the frame, but I may need to mount the shocks to the outside of the link.  The bushings will do some and if I mount the shock eye low enough that will help too, but I am interested in options.
IFS is best kept at ambient temperature in a pile of scrap in the backyard.  When kept under a functioning vehicle, it tends to greatly diminish said vehicle's offroad ability.     -reklund5

4Runner: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4580.0
Beastmaster: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=34339.0

4RnrRick

Pulled the extra passenger door out of storage today and got them gutted, installed some hinges and cut for half doors.








Then I sat on my stool and stared at the rocker panels for probably two hours trying to figure out an easy way to boatside the sami right below the lower door hinge (cutting 4" off the bottom of the doors). I finally got tired of just thinking about and just started cutting into the rocker panel to see what was inside. Well I decided that it was going to be more work than I wanted to get into since to do what I wanted would require me totally redoing both body mounts. so this is what I ended up with.




4RnrRick

And I'm going to notch around the front body mount, so when I plate under the rock sliders supports (see mock up tube), the plate will be high and tight against the bottom of the mount.








To cap it off, I was able to reuse the factory rocker panel skin which gave me a nice outside radius to blend the welds into. I still need to finish up around the front body mount.






Kirmet

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