Author Topic: The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body (Read 333324 times)

4RnrRick · « **Reply #30 on:** Oct 16, 2007, 09:31:17 PM »

I also got the door hinges modified for quick release doors. Pretty much a standard issue mod for a Sami.

GrenadedToy · « **Reply #31 on:** Oct 19, 2007, 01:59:37 PM »

Quote from: 4RnrRick on Oct 16, 2007, 09:31:17 PM

I also got the door hinges modified for quick release doors. Pretty much a standard issue mod for a Sami.

my buddy did this mod. works well.

i cant wait to see this thing done. lookin good so far.

4RnrRick · « **Reply #32 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 12:55:58 PM »

Now that I'm getting closer in getting the toyota stripped down and put back together with stock parts, I've been thinking about the Tuki build more and more lately. Mainly because I'm just about ready to start working on it again.

I think what I'm shooting for will be a mix of:

"BlueBalls" old tin top http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/blueballs2u/
and
Trail-Toughs latest build http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=598703&highlight=trailtough.

Those two builds have been the biggest inspiration for me so far for what I would like mine to look like when finished.

That got me to thinking about the actual hieght I would like to design it to. as most of you guys know - I like my rigs pretty low.. I'm thinking about a ~21" belly hieght which will make it almost the same hieght as a standard spring over sami running 31's based on my measurements and sketches. That will be nice! For wheelbase, I'm now thinking about 106" to 108", but still not sure.

Heres a sketch that I did comparing hieghts based on some side view photos I took...

Photo Link: http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee91/4RnrRick/Tuki/sideprofile.gif

Also the other thing that I have been thinking about alot is the headlights and grill. My first thought was to install some junkyard project beam headlights from a newer car / truck. But then I thought about coping the forumla toy flame grill offered my Hendrix Motorsports, but now I'm thinking about just making my own. Maybe something like this.

MiniSimp · « **Reply #33 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 01:09:33 PM »

21" isn't bad, I'm at 24" with 106"WB and I don't hit bottom much. I'm with you on the low as possible theory.
I'd hold off on the grill and focus on getting the thing put together before you sell it and start your full tube buggy.

4RnrRick · « **Reply #34 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 01:47:46 PM »

Its just thats how my mind works at times.... completely random things like "grills" pop into my head so I start thinking about it.

Quasi is around 22" with 36"s at street pressure and 111" WB and seems to work good. but I would like the sami to be a bit shorter and lower...

4RnrRick · « **Reply #35 on:** Nov 15, 2007, 12:51:28 PM »

Well I ordered some more stuff today....

I decided that I like the stock sami 7" round headlight buckets enough that I'm going to reuse them on the tube front clip. Especially due to the fact on how simple it would be to mount them.

So looking around on Ebay I ordered some Glass H6024 H4 head conversions lenses and a inexpensive H4 4300K HID conversion kit (includes harness, bulbs, ballast). I haven't used a HID kit before, but I hear they work pretty darn good. I know the headlight conversion lenses with just basic h4 bulbs really are a improvement over your basic halogen sealed beam headlights.

What can I say - I hate sucky headlights.

Motorvated · « **Reply #36 on:** Nov 15, 2007, 01:11:12 PM »

PLEASE post back on how those hids turn out....im very interested. thats wicked cheap

4RnrRick · « **Reply #37 on:** Nov 15, 2007, 01:40:09 PM »

Will do. If the components burn out - I figure I will just buy some brand name ones...

Jud · « **Reply #38 on:** Nov 18, 2007, 03:18:07 PM »

This thing looks like it's gonna be sweet! I love toy axled Sammis!

THK Matt · « **Reply #39 on:** Nov 20, 2007, 02:02:06 AM »

DUDEEE!! this is guna be

4RnrRick · « **Reply #40 on:** Nov 21, 2007, 07:08:20 AM »

Yesterday I started trying to mock up the motor location. I decided that I'm going to need to mount the engine about 1/2" off centerline to give me some clearance on the brake master cylinder and reservior. Also for now my current York OBA mount is not going to work, its too low. I'll figure that one out later...

And I've decided to cut the frame rails off and make new higher ones. Which means all the previous grinding on cleaning up these frame rails was pointless..... But I need to go buy some steel to do that.

Oh and I also ordered up some 39.5 Iroks and Mickey Thompson 15x10 classic locks. Yes, they are "worthless steetlocks". But I've had great success with keeping my old 36" iroks on 15x10 steel rims with no beadlocks and I decided to try it again - but this time I'm going to a lighter aluminum wheel. But in doing that I also wanted a wheel that had some rim protection for the outer bead and something to protect the valve core. and with these MT classic locks - I can ubolt the outer ring and make a new one if need be. If I issues lossing beads, my plan is just to install some Staun internal locks.

Not to mention with www.4wheelparts.com current 10% off & free shipping on wheels and tires - it was hard not to buy them...
I'm getting the tires for $242.09 ea. and the rims for $152.34 ea = Total of $1,576.72 to my door! And then when I get them, I'm heading directly up to Americas Tire to buy the "road hazard" certificates on them!

THK Matt · « **Reply #41 on:** Nov 21, 2007, 08:06:10 AM »

did i miss it? what engine is that?

that think is going to be sick

Shoyrtt · « **Reply #42 on:** Nov 21, 2007, 08:06:44 AM »

That is a good deal on the 39s. I paid $25 per tire more from 4WP a few months ago.

When you get a chance, list Quasimoto in the for sale section here.

The build looks great.

4RnrRick · « **Reply #43 on:** Nov 22, 2007, 09:26:24 AM »

Motor is a 2000 2.7L 3rz
Bellhousing is Marlins 3rz to R series
Tranny is a short R150 (3.0 v6 tranny)
AA v6 Tcase adapter
T-cases are top shift 23 total-spline billet 10 degree duals (2.28 X 4.70) with chromo output.

THK Matt · « **Reply #44 on:** Nov 23, 2007, 09:19:27 AM »

BADASS!

4RnrRick · « **Reply #45 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 10:16:34 AM »

Got my old dual cases tore down and installed a chromo T-case output .....

I also cut the front of the frame off the sami...

THK Matt · « **Reply #46 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 10:17:59 AM »

kneedownnate · « **Reply #47 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 06:12:49 PM »

Lookin good

How's the little mazda coming along?

4RnrRick · « **Reply #48 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 07:40:31 PM »

Samurai frame rails measure about 50mm x 100mm x 2.5mm wall thickness (or approx 2" x 4" x 0.100" wall) so I choose to go with 2" x 4" x 0.125" wall for the frame new pieces. And I made them extra long because I don't know what I'm doing up front yet design wise, and this way I can just cut them off when I get to that point.

Then I added some 3/16" renforcement plates on the inside of the frame rails to cover the joint and I made them long enough to be used for the new motor mounts.

People always seem to me ask me what welder I use, so I figured I would just tell you now - its just the base model 110 Volt Lincoln with a Mig bottle kit. I use 0.023 solid wire and 75/25 gas mix. seems to work good for me......

Heres the 3rz motor all mounted up... Hopefully I got it right, but thats why its only tacked into place.

Motor Mounts are made from some 3/16 flar bar, an old Rancho Lower control arm off a XJ and some pre cut 1/4" suspension tabs.

The motor is mounted 1/2" off center toward the passenger side trying to maximize the room between the intake plenum and brake master.

And the tranny bellhousing mating surface is about 3" forward of the firewall.

From the pictures you can see the Plenum is actualy touching the reservior of the Subaru Brake Master Cylinder - my plan to fix that is to rotate the whole master cylinder 15 degrees with a adapter mounted between the booster and master cylinder or just make a custom reservior. I haven't decided which yet.

4RnrRick · « **Reply #49 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 07:43:14 PM »

Quote from: kneedownnate on Nov 24, 2007, 06:12:49 PM

How's the little mazda coming along?

Its not mine, its the kids down the street that I was help w/ the fab work - he still plans to finish off the bed and paint it, but my part is done.

crawlerdan · « **Reply #50 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 08:17:38 PM »

hey rick, just a suggestion- the forester clutch and brake master cylender are equal in power output, and every other aspect, but have smaller resivoirs

but they must be off a turbo forester, the resivoirs are smaller to allow room for the intercooler on those cars.

you can find these on legacycentral.org, or usmb, i know your a member there

looks good buddy!

4RnrRick · « **Reply #51 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 11:02:13 PM »

Thanks Dan - I'll have to look into that.....

{EDIT}

Do they look like this, with a square reservior?

If so, I have two buddies with those and they will still interfere because the reservior is still too wide and the low level switch plug is also on the wrong side of the master cylinder.

lilbuddy · « **Reply #52 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 11:24:13 PM »

How much did you pay for the HID conversion? And do you recall if they had it for the Toyota style square lights?

Cool build BTW. Ive been watching it on both here and pirate. Actually I think ive watched most of your builds. Theyre all cool.

Duffil · « **Reply #53 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 11:30:03 PM »

Quote from: LILBUDDY on Nov 24, 2007, 11:24:13 PM

How much did you pay for the HID conversion? And do you recall if they had it for the Toyota style square lights?

Cool build BTW. Ive been watching it on both here and pirate. Actually I think ive watched most of your builds. Theyre all cool.

The toyota style square light (H6054) is the same pattern as an H4.

4RnrRick · « **Reply #54 on:** Nov 24, 2007, 11:55:09 PM »

H4666 & H4656 = 4" x 6" Rectangle
H6054 = 7" x 6" Rectangle = Toyota
H6024 = 7" round = Sami

Search Ebay for prices......

crawlerdan · « **Reply #55 on:** Nov 25, 2007, 08:26:54 AM »

look at this clutch MC, it is a full 1 1/4 inches shorter the a regular one, dont know if your concerned with the clutch, but there ya go

and if you look at this brake MC, you can see that rather the having a full diameter cup from top to bottom, it is ruduced at the top, right about where you are interfering

also, as you probably know-aisin makes MC for subaru, toyota, suzuki, kia, ect
if that doesnt work maybe walk around a wrecking yard and remove MC cups till you find one that suits you!

good luck

THK Matt · « **Reply #56 on:** Nov 25, 2007, 08:41:13 AM »

rick, its looking really good.
and is there anyway of moving the whole brake booster and MC over an inch?

b_ripper8 · « **Reply #57 on:** Nov 25, 2007, 09:32:46 AM »

Good looking build up

4RnrRick · « **Reply #58 on:** Nov 25, 2007, 10:36:18 AM »

Quote from: crawlerdan on Nov 25, 2007, 08:26:54 AM

look at this clutch MC, it is a full 1 1/4 inches shorter the a regular one, dont know if your concerned with the clutch, but there ya go

and if you look at this brake MC, you can see that rather the having a full diameter cup from top to bottom, it is ruduced at the top, right about where you are interfering

also, as you probably know-aisin makes MC for subaru, toyota, suzuki, kia, ect
if that doesnt work maybe walk around a wrecking yard and remove MC cups till you find one that suits you!

good luck

Clutch MC isn't an issue - I'm just using the matching Toyota one for the tranny.

That one you show has the outlet ports on the wrong side, but thanks for showing me thats reservior. I'll keep it in mind.

4RnrRick · « **Reply #59 on:** Nov 25, 2007, 10:37:39 AM »

Quote from: ImahoToy85 on Nov 25, 2007, 08:41:13 AM

rick, its looking really good.
and is there anyway of moving the whole brake booster and MC over an inch?

Anything is possible, just looking for the best and cleanest solution. I'm still in mock up stages, so its not like I'm locked into this.

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