The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body

Started by 4RnrRick, October 14, 2007, 09:24:42 PM

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4RnrRick

Except all that work setting the body on was mainly just to locate the rear axle.... so now its back in the garage in peices. Tub on one side, frame on the other and the doors back in storage....  :hammer:

4RnrRick

#661
Got my steering and pan hard all finalized with weld-in threaded tube adapters (I did have nuts welded to some of the tubes for mockup) and got it all painted.

I also got my Street Lock Rings for my Mickey Thompson Wheels back from Powercoat - Thanks Matts - the color is a perfect match!

4RnrRick

And now I can get started on the rear suspension since last night I picked up the very first prototype rear fabricated housing from Sky-manufacturing. Along with Sky, I designed it years ago and it just never got prototyped. And with my recent desire/need for a nice rear axle housing for Tuki, Sky decided to build a couple and see how they work. This is the first one out the Jig and I told his shop guys there was no need to spit & polish it for me and I would take it just like it is as I'm rushing them to get it pulled out of the jig so I can get home.

Some basic specs: IFS width, housing formed 1/4" plate, gussets are 3/8 plate, 8" diff mounting plate is 1/2" thick, tubes are 3" x 3/8 wall DOM, factory bearing flanges. We decided for the fill and breather holes - I would just add those where I wanted them after I got my link mounts welded onto it.

And if your curious about price - don't be, its a prototype...


Rainen

Nice looking rig, as always.  Any idea when they are going to un-prototype those so us comon folk can buy one?  Keep building, looks great.
My :pokinit: always works ... sometimes

4RnrRick

This is the FIRST rear fab. housing, I have no idea what Sky's plans are!!!

Kaptain

Damn that's a beefy housing!  I had a feeling you would do something over the top for the rear...

Awesome job on the build so far.

DTB

RIP KYOTA
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Rainen

I was waiting for someone else to say it.  But thats exactly what I was thinking.
My :pokinit: always works ... sometimes

TIMS89CRAWLER

that housing is badass for sure and the whole build is lookin tight  :biggthumpup:
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

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1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
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THK Matt

Quote from: 4RnrRick on March 13, 2008, 07:33:45 AM
And now I can get started on the rear suspension since last night I picked up the very first prototype rear fabricated housing from Sky-manufacturing. Along with Sky, I designed it years ago and it just never got prototyped. And with my recent desire/need for a nice rear axle housing for Tuki, Sky decided to build a couple and see how they work. This is the first one out the Jig and I told his shop guys there was no need to spit & polish it for me and I would take it just like it is as I'm rushing them to get it pulled out of the jig so I can get home.

Some basic specs: IFS width, housing formed 1/4" plate, gussets are 3/8 plate, 8" diff mounting plate is 1/2" thick, tubes are 3" x 3/8 wall DOM, factory bearing flanges. We decided for the fill and breather holes - I would just add those where I wanted them after I got my link mounts welded onto it.

And if your curious about price - don't be, its a prototype...

Makes that TG Rock Assault Rear Housing look like a kid made it.. damn that sky housing is :afro:
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gnob

that housing looks pretty nice to me.
what was the glitch with the fronts?
hold this. . .

TIMS89CRAWLER

ya i would love to get my hands on a front one of those bad boys.... :bling:
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

www.choptechfab.com
www.myspace.com/choptechfab

1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
CHECK THE BUILD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39494.0

skipnrocks

Was the reason for a stretched housing to act as a truss of sorts for more strength? 
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Bazzi

that´s a one nice strong housing... only thing that bothers me is, the holes in the inner truss... I´m not sure tho, My first thought was to weld them all good.... but that´s not a good option cause then it might rust from the inside... welding the bottom half of them isn´t a good option either, so I would keep it as it is...  then I was thinking... that center section is huge... but that only adds  streanght to the housing... so ..... keep it as it is that´s my 2 cents....
4runner body on a hilux frame = Hi-Runner.
2,4 dti duals 2,28 x 2,28 to 8" 5.71 with arb´s  and 39,5" trxus
gathering parts for my goal which is
350 Chevy 700r4 auto to 2.28 x 4.70  and 4.88 9,5" cruisers diffs,diamondaxles and cable lockers, 44" richard cepecs

Bazzi

Quote from: skipnrocks on March 13, 2008, 02:45:03 PM
Was the reason for a stretched housing to act as a truss of sorts for more strength? 
I belive that the reason for the streatched housing is. the tubes enter the housing and is weldet... then the inner truss welds it to the housing again... the longer these 2 are apart the stronger it gets...
4runner body on a hilux frame = Hi-Runner.
2,4 dti duals 2,28 x 2,28 to 8" 5.71 with arb´s  and 39,5" trxus
gathering parts for my goal which is
350 Chevy 700r4 auto to 2.28 x 4.70  and 4.88 9,5" cruisers diffs,diamondaxles and cable lockers, 44" richard cepecs

toyotanner

how do you put fluid in it?? or do you tap your own hole?

MiniSimp

Quote from: toyotanner on March 13, 2008, 04:38:21 PM
how do you put fluid in it?? or do you tap your own hole?
Read
Quote from: 4RnrRick on March 13, 2008, 07:33:45 AM
We decided for the fill and breather holes - I would just add those where I wanted them after I got my link mounts welded onto it.


toyotanner

 :smack: actually im illiterate thanks for reminding me. haha j/k sorry i should have read more thoroughly

46&2

That housing looks nice. Is there a reason that on the inside of the housing there are those gaps that havent been filled in? Obviously it is sealed but is that a problem to have all those open spots or is it irrelevant? Gunk build up or anything?

Definitely interested if Sky decides to put these into production. Looks  :bling:
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Duffil

probably to allow oil to do its thing and get back to where it is needed after flexing to 45*.

joeshmo

i probly missed your plans for the rear suspension
were you planning on running the 3link you had on quasi or are you planning on building a 4 link for the rear?

Redbeard1

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4RnrRick

Got the lower link axle side mounts tacking into position.

Cut the lower links to length, coped the ends and welded them up 100% and assemblied the joints.

Also tacked the upper links axle side mounts onto the top of the diff.

Next up is figuring out the upper link frame side mounts.

854RUN

Lookin dam good Rick, that housing look very nice unlike the         axle housing you reviewed  :_oops:. Anyways Tuki is bad  :moon: keep up the good work  :thumbs:
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TIMS89CRAWLER

 :thumbs: the suspension looks sick man.... this is going to be one bad sami thats for sure keep up the good work  :yupyup:
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

www.choptechfab.com
www.myspace.com/choptechfab

1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
CHECK THE BUILD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39494.0

twistedtoy92

2005 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro 380 AWHP @ 24psi
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MiniSimp

Rick, have you figured out your pinion angle at ride height?

4RnrRick

#689
This is my pinoin angle at ride hieght....



Thats about 8" from the top of the axle to the bottom of the frame rail. Which figures out to be the 5" of up travel I want + a ~2" bump stop (fully compressed) and a 1" bump stop spacer. Throwing that picture in CAD it measures about 10-12 degrees. but then again - the picture is not a good one to be measureing off of.

As you can see in the pictures, my lower links are going to be a fixed length (non-adjustable), but I plan to have my uppers adjustable about +/- 3/4" (approx +/- 5 degrees) so I can fine tune the pinoin angle.