Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 911288 times)

mobil1syn · « **Reply #840 on:** Aug 21, 2012, 02:25:07 PM »

a little help with codes im getting ... getting 0171-1130-1135

i would venture to say i have a bad A/F sensor based on the diagnostic sheet from the FSM. any other thoughts?

RottenScummyTroll · « **Reply #841 on:** Aug 22, 2012, 11:37:02 AM »

Hey guys, working on the logistics for a 3rz swap into my 90 22re 4WD pickup.

Question (and I've searched a lot...)

How much clearance do I need on the oil pan with IFS? Basically, I'm wondering if a 2" diff drop would be enough to use an unmodified T100 oil pan.

Many thanks!

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #842 on:** Aug 22, 2012, 11:46:13 AM »

If the T100 pan is rear sump, which I think it is, it should work. You will have to re-locate your dipstick if the motor you are using is front sump.

rcbro · « **Reply #843 on:** Aug 28, 2012, 06:13:14 PM »

Getting pretty good with these motors. I sorted and wired an 02 2rz in a day.

Had a friend of a friend contact me this week. Gave me his plugs and I just labeled them so he knows what to do with them and made a Pinouts for where he needs to hook them up. If your truck is already efi this process really speeds up!

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #844 on:** Sep 04, 2012, 10:50:24 PM »

My swap is a '98 two coil 3RZ.

I'm still getting a very intermittent hesitation around 3500 rpms. When I run gas with ethanol I even get an airfuel lean (PO171) code and it seems to run like crap on it with less power. The engine has decent power all around and is very drivable but as I get comfortable with it after break in I have noticed that it won't really ever rev to redline under load if I try and generally lacks power in the upper end above 3800 rpms anyway. The truck also gets like 24 miles per gallon unloaded with 5.29s and 35s which has a few people suspicious, since most guys get 19 or 20 mpg with that setup. If it was a 22re I would almost guess my cam timing was off but since it's kind of a come and go symptom I am scratching my head. I was pretty careful putting the timing chain and gears together so I'm fairly sure that's not it anyway. I have thought about an adjustable timing gear in case the head has been machined alot and I just don't know it to allow a bit more tuning.

I was also wondering if the injectors were just nasty.

Anyone have a similar experience or a possible solution?

TacoRunner · « **Reply #845 on:** Sep 05, 2012, 07:27:31 AM »

From my dyno sheets the 3RZ's torque band drops off after 4000RPM's. As for your gas mileage, the reason it looks like you are getting great mileage is because your tires are smaller than your gearing calls for if you're trying to get back to stock on 5.29's. If you either drop gears to 4.88 or put on 37"s you'll notice a drop in the appearance of mileage.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #846 on:** Sep 05, 2012, 09:37:39 AM »

Thanks that makes me feel a little better on the power up on top. Any reason why it wouldn't run for crap and throw codes on ethanol mixed/oxegenated gas though?

Most of the time it has good power overall but when it starts really acting up it's like you hit a wall at 3500.

Oh and the 24 mpg is after taking into acount the gearing difference with the slightly too small of tires. It's crazy...

TacoRunner · « **Reply #847 on:** Sep 05, 2012, 05:29:36 PM »

Well, your code says its lean. So... add more fuel.

Tugger01 · « **Reply #848 on:** Sep 05, 2012, 07:57:50 PM »

I'v got a 86 toyota pickup with the 22r, and iv found a 3rz that is already in a 85 toyota pickup. The guy is selling the set up so it would be a plug in, and play, but the engine needs rebuilt it has a nock. Would it be worth it for $700 ?

rcbro · « **Reply #849 on:** Sep 06, 2012, 12:45:00 PM »

I doubt it's plug and play considering the years are different, but they're probably close, however $700 is a great price if it's all there

rcbro · « **Reply #850 on:** Sep 06, 2012, 12:47:40 PM »

Quote from: TacoRunner on Sep 05, 2012, 07:27:31 AM

From my dyno sheets the 3RZ's torque band drops off after 4000RPM's.

Not doubting this at all, but I swear my motor start pulling harder after 4k. My brother in law says the same thing about his. Love the Rpms this motor will take.

3toys · « **Reply #851 on:** Sep 06, 2012, 03:24:18 PM »

Mine pulls hard as well. To at least 5K. I've only hit the limiter once and that was accidental.

rcbro · « **Reply #852 on:** Sep 06, 2012, 03:43:04 PM »

Motor loves the rev limiter too. Lol used it a bunch in the sand

chim · « **Reply #853 on:** Sep 09, 2012, 11:07:40 AM »

Does anyone know if the 3rz alternator needs continuous power or if it is wired to ignition power?

rcbro · « **Reply #854 on:** Sep 09, 2012, 11:25:35 AM »

Depending on year I believe, but mine has both a switched and a hot. The alternator will not charge unless its hooked up correctly.

chim · « **Reply #855 on:** Sep 09, 2012, 04:48:43 PM »

I had a power draw... Turns out my ignition and constant were flip flopped.. All is good now

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #856 on:** Sep 10, 2012, 11:39:09 AM »

So I got back from another road trip and got to run various types of fuel. The engine had it's usual glitch with no rev over 3500 when I got ethanol in the gas, then went back to normal with regular good old gasoline. I also played around a bit and found that I can get way more revs if I ease into the throttle, but when I stomp on the gas it bogs down. Should I be looking at the TPS?

Oh and I'm not opposed to adding more fuel, but how? Bigger injectors, 5th injector mod, what can I do to tune this thing?

rcbro · « **Reply #857 on:** Sep 10, 2012, 12:43:47 PM »

Tps sounds alittle guilty

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #858 on:** Sep 12, 2012, 06:43:03 PM »

TPS tested good but the mass air sensor does not have the proper ohms between the two terminals you test, infact it doesn't read at all, so I'm guessing that's my culprit. After a few paychecks we will see...

TacoRunner · « **Reply #859 on:** Sep 20, 2012, 07:07:26 AM »

That sounds like a good place to start.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #860 on:** Sep 20, 2012, 09:52:17 AM »

Still haven't got paid enough to buy one with outgoing work expenses this month but I'll post up as soon as I replace it...

J-BABY · « **Reply #861 on:** Sep 25, 2012, 12:39:35 AM »

i just got a 85 4x4 toyota xtra cab for 500$ n it has a blown 22r in, i was thinking bout rebuilding it, but now i wanna do the 3rz.....
is it possible with the FSA, and what all exactly would i need for this, i am new to the forum also so forgive me for being a newb..but this sounds about the same price but better!

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #862 on:** Sep 25, 2012, 10:03:02 AM »

Quote from: J-BABY on Sep 25, 2012, 12:39:35 AM

i just got a 85 4x4 toyota xtra cab for 500$ n it has a blown 22r in, i was thinking bout rebuilding it, but now i wanna do the 3rz.....
is it possible with the FSA, and what all exactly would i need for this, i am new to the forum also so forgive me for being a newb..but this sounds about the same price but better!

Best thing you could do is to read this thread all the way through. It's all in there!

3toys · « **Reply #863 on:** Sep 25, 2012, 03:43:21 PM »

^^ what he said. I did mine('84 22R) with info from this thread, Yotatech, and a FSM. All in my driveway....

Stu · « **Reply #864 on:** Oct 02, 2012, 06:52:27 AM »

Little background info: a few years ago I swapped a 2001 2rz from an automatic truck into my fuggy. I was also building my house at the same time so I did it the easy way and put pretty much the whole tacoma harness in my rig. I did remove the airbag, lighting and other obvious misc wiring. Aside from that I've got all the other wiring in it including both fuse blocks and a couple relay boards. All I did was jump out the neutral safety switch, I'm still running the auto ECM. Trying to figure out how I got away with than since all other info I've read says you have to get a standard ECM?
I'd like to simplify my wiring and get rid of the 2 fuse panels. My concers are that I'd then have to get a standard ECM and also my rev limiter hits roughly twice as fast as a few of my friends with manuals. Is this due to the year or the auto ECM?

I also would like to pick up a spare long block. What years of engines will work for a replacement?

Thanks in advance

Bill

boomtacoma01 · « **Reply #865 on:** Oct 04, 2012, 07:51:22 AM »

I too want a 3RZ in my 85 Ext Cab. However, I have an R151 from an 86 in the truck now and would like to keep it. From reading the thread (over and over) the only way to make this work is with a Marlin belhousing which is no longer in production or with a 2TR bellhousing?? I read that the 2TR housing is slightly longer and would require milling. If I have to source a 2tr bellhousing, I might as well source a 2TR engine as well.

Im not in dire need of an engine now, I just want to be prepared and this bellhousing issue is not helping out. Any advise?

3toys · « **Reply #866 on:** Oct 09, 2012, 05:30:09 PM »

I would suggest being on the lookout for a used one.

trader · « **Reply #867 on:** Oct 12, 2012, 06:55:09 PM »

Does anybody run a 3rz with TRD supercharger. I have a 2004 and am putting it into a reworked ftoy and looking for some info. Got the bellhousing covered but the computer is the unknown.
Questions
Does stock ECU Control a supercharger or can i have it flashed with different code
I also have a AEM programmed but have not gotten that far.

boosten22re · « **Reply #868 on:** Nov 05, 2012, 06:39:35 AM »

Fuel will need to be controlled with the addition of a aftermarket rising 4:1 fuel pressure regulator, or for high boost a aftermarket fuel computer/ standalone.

Regulator should work good up to about 4-5 psi don't forget different plug are needed and high quality fuel. any thing more you will need to retard the timing.

Gregg

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #869 on:** Nov 18, 2012, 08:09:12 PM »

So after getting my 3RZ running tight by getting MAF sensor sorted out and a dry filter my milage went dow to 18-21. Still pretty good but the faulty MAF was definately causing it to run lean which is aparently why I was getting 25 mpg...

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