Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 911338 times)

D-nAsTy-MaX · « **Reply #630 on:** Sep 21, 2011, 06:36:21 AM »

Quote from: SFD4x4 on Apr 09, 2011, 11:29:11 PM

EVAP

I know what vacuum lines you are talking about. I will take some pictures tomorrow morning when I get off of work.

hey guys i've read over this numerous times but not seen much info. on my issue. i used a 96' taco 2.7l 3rz 5speed 4wd taco trucks engine, cab, rear axle, and taco gas tank/lines ect... put it all on my 84' pickup chassis! engine is distributor style. i replaced cracked cast manifold with later style oem mini tube header, i did hook up 02 sensors on exhaust spaced apart correctly though there is no cat only a muffler. right after swap truck was overheating(only overheating no tick/rattle) so i ordered cometic hg arp headstuds oem thermostat, ect.... did that job, while doing it replaced numerous gaskets fuel filter ect... did the works, spent forever getting it timed in(nightmare). well gotit to stop overheating but not for long then this curent issue started. sidenot: when swapping everything over my guy pulled the ac/heat stuff because i chose to not need it. in that process a lot of random vacuum stuff was pulled and some left... i think this could be what is causing my truck not to run right, current issue symptoms: (truck starts idles normal even would drive normal but this is only for about 5 mins then idle drops major loss of power gets ticking rattle sort of sound, after about 10mins of this will begin to overheat(pushes coolant out overflow) then starts trying to easily stall out and die and once it does it wont start back for few mins acts like dead battery at that point... header gets chalky white sparkplugs are white chalky at tips)

the evap canister box in above pic is off the truck though most the sensors(vps, vsv for vps, vsv for evap) on/around evap box were left on truck plugged in just not hooked up still.... currently have valvecover off everything looks fine still, timing still looks correct but dam these engines are tough to time.... pulled oilfilter going to cut it apart see if any metal is in there rule out major issue. going to hook up scanner and timing light ect... next few days check all that.

any info on what could be my issue? how tofix? and if i just need to unplug remove and cap off all the left over vacuum stuff, or collect parts and reinstall it?

thanks a ton!
kevin

TacoRunner · « **Reply #631 on:** Sep 21, 2011, 07:42:31 AM »

So I've got the 95.5 model year tacoma engine, it has a distruibutor. Which can not be timed. What I mean by that is, its computer controled. it only allows you to move it so much. You dont need to mess with that thing at all. Personnaly I think you should put everything back to stock and work your way through the codes one at a time. You may have a cracked head.

D-nAsTy-MaX · « **Reply #632 on:** Sep 21, 2011, 06:57:08 PM »

Quote from: TacoRunner on Sep 21, 2011, 07:42:31 AM

So I've got the 95.5 model year tacoma engine, it has a distruibutor. Which can not be timed. What I mean by that is, its computer controled. it only allows you to move it so much. You dont need to mess with that thing at all. Personnaly I think you should put everything back to stock and work your way through the codes one at a time. You may have a cracked head.

yeah i agree i would believe me if i had stock oem parts.... head was checked when it was decked for the cometic headgasket.... dont see how it could be cracked now havent even drove it because its been doing this since i did the headgasket... i have not used a computer to time it just lined up cams n timing chain as manual says and then moved distributor gear one tooth at a time. going to use timing light tomorrow and scantool to check things out... oil and oilfilter checked out clean! pulled rest of evap stuff that was left on today although the line coming from tank back to what woulda been going into evap box is still on and just open at evap box connection end...

TacoRunner · « **Reply #633 on:** Sep 21, 2011, 07:28:09 PM »

As for the timing, I tried messing with mine and didnt' like it. It was years ago that did but if it runs then I'd say you're fine with that. As for the head, it may not be a crack but the head could be warpped.

D-nAsTy-MaX · « **Reply #634 on:** Sep 21, 2011, 08:14:34 PM »

that may be it was checked when decked but i dont know that they checked for being warped....

D-nAsTy-MaX · « **Reply #635 on:** Sep 22, 2011, 07:45:18 PM »

well turns out my balance shaft bearings let go all but the very front one had let go ticking sound was from balance shaft bouncing around... bearings were in pan beat to hell... motor was fighting locking down which caused the loss of power and overheating all that money waisted on doin topend rebuild with arp's and all new oem toyota parts.... just to need bottomend rebuilt now.... good new is i have a extremely clean like new 40k mile distibutorless 2.7liter 3rz coilpack style motor just need harness and computer....

D-nAsTy-MaX · « **Reply #636 on:** Sep 22, 2011, 07:47:15 PM »

can anyone tell me if there is a balance shaft delete kit for the coilpack style 2.7liter? or if this issue has been solved in the later design?? seems to be alot of 2.7ls out there with bad balance shafts searching the net.

R.DesJardin · « **Reply #637 on:** Sep 23, 2011, 05:34:54 PM »

A choice of fuel tanks.
So doing a 2RZ swap and I have the entire wiring harness, fuel system including fuel tank from the donor truck, this is all goin in my '82.
So I obviously need an EFI type tank so after pulling my '82 tank and comparing it to the 22re tank and the 2RZ Taco tank I'm looking at which will be the easier swap.
Using the:
RE tank will allow direct bolt in from the looks of it, then a modified fill tube and connecting the wiring to the Taco harness.
RZ tank will allow use of the Taco wiring and fuel lines, and is too long to fit.
So that leaves using the RE tank splicing in the RZ wiring pigtails. So now all I need to do is:
1: Figure out which wires are for what. That shouldn't be too difficult.
2: Figure out if the RE fuel sender will work with a Taco fuel gauge.
3: Bolts right up!?!?
Pics for the readers pleasure.
From to top to bottom, R-RE-RZ

And another view-from right to left RZ-RE-R

slabcs · « **Reply #638 on:** Sep 23, 2011, 07:24:31 PM »

Quote from: R.DesJardin on Sep 23, 2011, 05:34:54 PM

So that leaves using the RE tank splicing in the RZ wiring pigtails. So now all I need to do is:
1: Figure out which wires are for what. That shouldn't be too difficult.
2: Figure out if the RE fuel sender will work with a Taco fuel gauge.
3: Bolts right up!?!?

1. Easy.
2. Mine does.
3. Yep.

R.DesJardin · « **Reply #639 on:** Sep 23, 2011, 08:24:21 PM »

Or maybe this-
Put tank on left side of truck, build new mounts, make hole in box for filler, run the Taco fuel lines down the left side away from the exhaust and to the correct side of the motor. Run exhaust down right side and not worry about a crossover pipe clearing everything.

R.DesJardin · « **Reply #640 on:** Sep 24, 2011, 09:17:49 PM »

Quote from: R.DesJardin on Sep 23, 2011, 08:24:21 PM

Or maybe this-
Put tank on left side of truck, build new mounts, make hole in box for filler, run the Taco fuel lines down the left side away from the exhaust and to the correct side of the motor. Run exhaust down right side and not worry about a crossover pipe clearing everything.

I did more measuring today, even laid the Taco fuel lines in place. Yes, this is the way I'm going to do it.

R.DesJardin · « **Reply #641 on:** Oct 01, 2011, 09:49:07 PM »

I have a 96 Taco 2RZ, it has a round steel EVAP canister. Where does the vent line coming out of the bottom of the canister go?

Seeds · « **Reply #642 on:** Oct 01, 2011, 10:28:46 PM »

Quote from: R.DesJardin on Sep 24, 2011, 09:17:49 PM

I did more measuring today, even laid the Taco fuel lines in place. Yes, this is the way I'm going to do it.

If you are in CA call the smog referee first. So many nit picky laws.

R.DesJardin · « **Reply #643 on:** Oct 01, 2011, 10:38:50 PM »

Quote from: Seeds on Oct 01, 2011, 10:28:46 PM

If you are in CA call the smog referee first. So many nit picky laws.

Not in CA, never lived there never plan to. No smog police here where I live in the middle of nowhere.

gnob · « **Reply #644 on:** Oct 06, 2011, 07:58:28 AM »

Quote from: R.DesJardin on Oct 01, 2011, 09:49:07 PM

I have a 96 Taco 2RZ, it has a round steel EVAP canister. Where does the vent line coming out of the bottom of the canister go?

no where, it vents to atmosphere.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #645 on:** Oct 15, 2011, 10:07:28 AM »

Took my 3RZ swap to the ref. It failed in three areas: no brake signal to ECU (fixed), gas cap (replaced), and then the tricky one.....EVAP monitor wont run. Should I replace all the hoses from tank to air box? Some of the lines are old. Make sure they are all clamped well to mitigate leaks. There is not a single DTC showing up on my scantool, no pending codes nothing......but the EVAP monitor wont run. If I can get that to work, I'll get my sticker

Anybody got any suggestions?

R.DesJardin · « **Reply #646 on:** Oct 20, 2011, 06:33:02 PM »

Intake Air Temp Probe/sensor, how did you guys all mount yours? The pics in the early build threads are missing?
This is how my intake is setup.

rcbro · « **Reply #647 on:** Oct 23, 2011, 08:01:37 PM »

gnob · « **Reply #648 on:** Oct 27, 2011, 07:40:22 PM »

how we did the IAT

4rnnr33 · « **Reply #649 on:** Nov 04, 2011, 12:01:42 AM »

Awesome thread Ive spent hours trying to read through everything. Im getting ready to swap a 3rz into my 94 pickup and I have a few questions about the gas tanks. 1. Does anyone know if the 3.4 tacos and 3rz tacos use the same tank 00-04 with the 4 lines. and 2. Does anyone have any pics of an EFI tank modified with the taco fuel pump and evap stuff? Thanks

ikaria · « **Reply #650 on:** Nov 06, 2011, 07:38:22 AM »

What would be the best transmission to throw into a 1st gen pickup behind a swaped in 3rz?

Here's some of what I've got so far:

1. W56 seems like a very popular option with an easy hook up to the 3RZ
2. R151F/150 sound like strong, easy fits with Marlin's bell housing

Pro's and con's? Is there a lot of cabin floor moding involved in these?

JustDSM · « **Reply #651 on:** Nov 07, 2011, 07:53:59 AM »

I might have missed it, but I'm looking for a picture that illustrates where the 10K ohm resistor is placed on the tach circuit. I'm swapping in a 3RZ into a 1st Gen (1983). The 3RZ is a '97 Twin Coil motor if that's of any importance.

bsi yota · « **Reply #652 on:** Nov 09, 2011, 10:38:36 AM »

This may have been covered but Im not about to read through 22 pages of 3rz stuff.

Im looking for a custom wiring harness for the 3rz like offroad solutions used to make.

anything???

R.DesJardin · « **Reply #653 on:** Nov 09, 2011, 11:47:22 AM »

Quote from: bsi yota on Nov 09, 2011, 10:38:36 AM

This may have been covered but Im not about to read through 22 pages of 3rz stuff.

Im looking for a custom wiring harness for the 3rz like offroad solutions used to make.

anything???

http://www.toyonlyswaps.com/

ohioyota · « **Reply #654 on:** Dec 15, 2011, 09:14:53 PM »

Finally finished my 3rz swap into my 85 4runner. I went to start it tonight and the starter is binding. The motor is out of a 98 taco and the bell housing came with it. The starter is a reman from o'reily's. It bolts on fine but when I turn the ignition it turns a few times and makes a slapping sound like its not fully engaging the fly wheel then binds up.

I removed it and replaced it twice, trying to line it up but same thing happened each time.

Has anyone had this happen to them, any suggestions?

rcbro · « **Reply #655 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 06:46:24 PM »

Mike who do we got to pay to get these pictures back online lol? thanks man!

rcbro · « **Reply #656 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 07:06:11 PM »

Hey Guys,
Finally got the funds to do my swap, so i'm ordering parts throughout the week.

I have a 2001 3rz with W59 bellhousing that I plan to bolt a W56 too. I've read there was some confusion on which clutch, fork, flywheel and throwout bearing to use. Whats the verdict on which I need to order? Thanks for your help!

I have the stock 80 radiator thats still in great shape. Is the 3 core needed/suggested or can I get away with the stock radiator. How about a electric fan? Any favorites?

smacaulay · « **Reply #657 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 08:03:11 AM »

Clutch, fork, flywheel, and bearings should all be for the 3RZ. I've got a 3 core for the 3VZ w/ no shroud and mechanical fan...no problems w/ heat crawling on hot days.

smacaulay · « **Reply #658 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 08:06:19 AM »

Quote from: ohioyota on Dec 15, 2011, 09:14:53 PM

Finally finished my 3rz swap into my 85 4runner. I went to start it tonight and the starter is binding. The motor is out of a 98 taco and the bell housing came with it. The starter is a reman from o'reily's. It bolts on fine but when I turn the ignition it turns a few times and makes a slapping sound like its not fully engaging the fly wheel then binds up.

I removed it and replaced it twice, trying to line it up but same thing happened each time.

Has anyone had this happen to them, any suggestions?

Was your 3rz from an auto? There is a spacer (~3/8" thick) for the flex plate I didn't remove before installing the flywheel, which caused interference between the bell housing and the flywheel not allowing it to crank.

ohioyota · « **Reply #659 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 06:27:31 PM »

The 3rz is from a manual trans vehicle. The flywheel and clutch were attached when I picked it up.

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