Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 916897 times)

GRW · « **Reply #900 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 06:49:45 AM »

Mine was a carbed truck and I don't like carbs off road, I had a wrecked runner with a 22RE so we swaped it in. Was not overly happy with it (once it was done) so I cammed it and still was not overly happy with it so it set most of the time. I drove the car instead. Now we are trying to down size the number of cars we have. So I want the truck to be able to drive down the highway without issues and get out of its own way. It was either a TD or a 3RZ, TD's are so $$$ and hard to find so I opted for 3RZ. From everything I have read I think I will be happy. I used to drive a sami with 1600 16V and loved it, I am hoping the 3RZ will make me as happy.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #901 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 07:10:45 AM »

I think you will be pleasently surprised and then happy with the 3rz. Lots of usable power compared to the carbed motors for sure and the 22RE as well. I went through the 20R in my truck, never ran good, probably the carb. Found the wrecked Tacoma and that was it. So glad I did it.

GRW · « **Reply #902 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 07:26:34 PM »

Well after opening up the dash I am having second thoughts about putting the Tacoma harness in my truck

SOOO I need to do more studying, get some input.

I need to get a better idea on what it would take just to splice in vs trying to make the harness adapt over.
The Taco harness is from a plane Jane & my 84 is an SR5 with everything.
I would like to keep the 22RE plugs so they can be used (motor is still good).

Thanks for any help. Gary

GRW · « **Reply #903 on:** Apr 27, 2013, 12:34:29 PM »

Well the motor is bolted in with the new motor mounts.
Looks like my steering stabilizer will have to be moved down to miss the pan.
I need to find out what the stock Tacoma alternator puts out as well as if the one off my 22RE can be swapped in it's place. I need to pull it but it looks like maybe just changing the pulley and plug will do the trick. I have a few more parts coming in and I still need to get a clutch pack and resurface the fly wheel before the final install. I guess next is deciding on which way to go with fuel tanks. The 22RE or the Tacoma, after that the exaust will be the opposite side. I have everything from the Tacoma so if it will fit thats the way to go (IMHO). But we will see soon, then it's just a matter of running the rest of the pluming then it on to the electrical

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #904 on:** Apr 27, 2013, 01:08:38 PM »

I'm assuming you will not be smogging this truck. I had the Tacoma fuel pump assembly adapted to my original tank and used all the evap components, everything, so I could get it referee'd. Sounds like things are moving right along. Do you have a build thread on here? Would like to see some pics of your project.

GRW · « **Reply #905 on:** Apr 29, 2013, 05:56:43 AM »

No Smog required (WA has an age limit), but we just have the sniffer test anyway. But even if it was required all you need is the correct number of cylinders and pass the snif test. My Sami always passes with flying colors because the 1600 FI motor, it was cleaner than the stock carbed 1300.

I am still looking at the tank issues, I see a couple possible clearance issues I am concerned about (Taco tank). The biggest problem I have is my truck is (basically) a flat bed with a box under the bed behind the cab. Right in the way, I want to make sure the tank will fit before cutting the box out. If it will fit I have no problem removing (cutting out) the box. But if it will not fit I would prefer to keep the box. I can use the 22RE tank with modified lines (from what I have read). So I am looking at that also, possible hybrid 22RE tank with Taco fuel lines?

Once I decide that I can decide how to route everything else...

As for a build thread, nothing. I have tried to take pictures and most of them (except this last weekend) are at: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10927/81359
Or you could go to: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10927 and see pictures of how I bought the truck and the changes to it as well as other projects in the past.

At this point I am still sorting through all the information out there on the swap and it's allot with allot of variances (makes it harder evaluate the info).
I’m not sure another build thread would help anyone, may just hinder. If I had the time and a better understanding of the build, I would sort out a bare bones (cut out all the BS posts) thread with just technical data.

boomtacoma01 · « **Reply #906 on:** May 20, 2013, 11:53:11 AM »

Quote from: 3toys on Oct 09, 2012, 05:30:09 PM

I would suggest being on the lookout for a used one.

I have been on the look out. I'd like to keep my R151 if possible.

On another note I found a 2TR engine out of an 05. I have been looking through various forums to see if anyone has attempted this swap. No luck so far. I think it would be a pretty cool swap if I can make it work.

Has anyone seen a 05+ 2.7 swap attempted?

3toys · « **Reply #907 on:** May 20, 2013, 05:00:39 PM »

Input shaft is longer on the trans behind the 2tr. So it'd have to a later model trans to match. Gear driven t-case options get hampered, but I'm not sure if anyone offers an adapter for that configuration. Maybe Inchworm?

And I'm not sure if anyone's done the later 2.7 yet. Seems to be the main hold up is drive by wire and fabbing to put the whole throttle assembly into the older trucks, but I know some guys have talked about it.

Lone Crawler · « **Reply #908 on:** May 23, 2013, 08:08:45 AM »

Ok, Here I go.
So I just installed a 1997 twin coil 3RZ into my 1986 4Runner. Got all my wires ran and started on the first try. So here is my question. I plugged in my scantool and there are no codes. I know what your thinking," This is a problem why?". Here is why I'm concerned, I live in Comifornia. I will have to get it smogged and reffed so I want to make sure its working properly. I unplug the front O2 sensor and ran the engine for about 1 min and no code. Is this normal, and do I need to run/drive it longer for the ecu to see any issues and throw a code.
FYI, I've only run the engine for about 10 mins at one point, other times for a couple mins each time. And I have no Cat
I also need to know if someone has the measurements/spacing of the O2 sensors. what I need is; flange to #1 O2, then #1 O2 to Cat, then Cat to #2 O2

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #909 on:** May 23, 2013, 08:17:49 AM »

no codes? that is weird. I ended up with 3 easy ones when I got mine reffed. Is your obd2 wired in correctly? all wires to ecu and obd plug are good? I can maybe get some measurements to ya later if noone else chimes in.

Lone Crawler · « **Reply #910 on:** May 23, 2013, 08:57:58 AM »

OBD2 is wired as such;
violet to 10amp fuse (after key switch power)
white to E5 pin19
whie/blk to ground
brown to ground
All wire to ecu are factory Tacoma and are secure
Only wires that were modified are in E5 for power and such

3toys · « **Reply #911 on:** May 23, 2013, 07:29:45 PM »

If its still in open loop, it may just be ignoring your O2 sensor. But being unplugged, you should be able to detect that on most scan tools, by watching the voltage variation (or lack of).

I'm not certain if O2 being unplugged will trip CEL immediately upon start up.

Lone Crawler · « **Reply #912 on:** May 29, 2013, 01:57:37 PM »

So I think I may have found my problem. The question is, does the wires at connector E5 pin 1 and pin 11 need to be constant power or can they be after key switch/relay. I have them after key switch.
Pin#, Color, Description

1, None
2, B/Y, Batt, EFI Fuse 20A from Battery
3, V.., A/T Oil Temp (Remove)
4, V/R, Check Engine Light
5, L/O, A/T OD Lamp (Remove)
6, L/B, AC Amplifier (Remove)
7, L/Y, AC Amplifier (Remove)
8, G/O, SP1 to speed sensor in cluster
9, None
10, R/W, 4WD T-case Position (Remove)
11, B/W, STA, 7.5A STA Fuse from Battery
12, W/R, B+ EFI Relay #3
13, R/G, TFN, (T-case neurtal) (Remove)

sourfabrication · « **Reply #913 on:** Jun 18, 2013, 02:02:21 AM »

ok so im doing a 89 2wd 3rz swap . . i have the motor in its a 04 3rz and i have a 04 4x4 ecu and wiring harness also just/converter installed the 04 dash/ignition/gauges with wiring harness and fuse box into the dash on the 89 .. .. my question is do i have to have the fuse box for the engine compartment? does it plug into the dash harness at all ? im just tryin to make this easy as possible. .. i still havent figured out where the starter harness connects to the wiring harness eather seems like there seperate besides the 4 prong square plug ... or would it plug into the 04 engine fuse box?? any help is appriciated

Wainiha · « **Reply #914 on:** Jun 18, 2013, 11:58:12 AM »

Sub'd so I don't forget where the info is.

malodin · « **Reply #915 on:** Aug 06, 2013, 04:24:27 AM »

Quote from: GRW on Apr 27, 2013, 12:34:29 PM

Well the motor is bolted in with the new motor mounts.
Looks like my steering stabilizer will have to be moved down to miss the pan.
I need to find out what the stock Tacoma alternator puts out as well as if the one off my 22RE can be swapped in it's place. I need to pull it but it looks like maybe just changing the pulley and plug will do the trick. I have a few more parts coming in and I still need to get a clutch pack and resurface the fly wheel before the final install. I guess next is deciding on which way to go with fuel tanks. The 22RE or the Tacoma, after that the exaust will be the opposite side. I have everything from the Tacoma so if it will fit thats the way to go (IMHO). But we will see soon, then it's just a matter of running the rest of the pluming then it on to the electrical

I have the same issue with my setup, the steering stabilizer is hitting the pan, turns out I installed the motor way too low, I placed some clay on top of the intake manifold and the power steering reservoir and shut the hood, I have about 3" hood clearance I think I am going to raise my motor an inch or two and see how my stabilizer bar likes it.

malodin · « **Reply #916 on:** Aug 06, 2013, 07:48:37 AM »

I need some wiring help. so there is the 22pin ecu point (3rd plug on the right when looking at the ecu plugs) I think its e5 but I am not sure where it comes from on the stock 1992 pickup, I cannot find it anywhere. when I removed the wiring harness for the stock 22r motor did it go with that?

malodin · « **Reply #917 on:** Aug 07, 2013, 02:12:48 AM »

anyone? I guess another way to put it is what am I missing regarding the 92 fuel injected wiring setup that plugs into the e5 of the 95/96 3rzfe e5 port. im at a loss as to where to pull all the e5 stuff from on the 92 body

fj40forlife · « **Reply #918 on:** Sep 02, 2013, 11:46:59 AM »

Anyone install a 3rz with Auto trans? does the stop light switch need to be hooked up? on a buggy, and having transmission issors. Tons of power in revers none in drive gears. Burnt out trans?

BadnewsBob · « **Reply #919 on:** Sep 09, 2013, 02:58:01 PM »

Okay another stoopid question that I can't find with the search engine.
Have any of you monkey wrenches installed a 3rz without smog equipment?
I don't have to pass smog checks here in KY so I can leave a pile of stuff off if it isn't required to run.
Or might I be better off to use a stand alone computer and do you know who might make one?
Thanks.

BigMike · « **Reply #920 on:** Sep 09, 2013, 04:06:43 PM »

Short answer: If you don't have everything hooked up correctly, the computer will throw a check code and depending on what is missing it may only operate in limp mode with only partial power (but still most power available). So you may also want to consider if trying to skip on systems is worth only have 80%? 90%? power at any given time.

Mike

boomtacoma01 · « **Reply #921 on:** Sep 12, 2013, 03:00:54 PM »

Quote from: 3toys on May 20, 2013, 05:00:39 PM

Input shaft is longer on the trans behind the 2tr. So it'd have to a later model trans to match. Gear driven t-case options get hampered, but I'm not sure if anyone offers an adapter for that configuration. Maybe Inchworm?

And I'm not sure if anyone's done the later 2.7 yet. Seems to be the main hold up is drive by wire and fabbing to put the whole throttle assembly into the older trucks, but I know some guys have talked about it.

Thanks for the information on the 2TR input shaft.

Since this thread gets some fairly good traffic, if anyone knows of a used Marlin bell housing for a 3rz to R151 for sale or available anywhere please let me know since all the cool kids are going to a V8 nowadays

896T4R · « **Reply #922 on:** Oct 06, 2013, 02:27:49 PM »

whats up guy. I have a 96 runner with a 3rz auto. I have been reading through this thread gathering some info on swapping out the trans. So far i have W59 bellhousing, W56 trans, and tacoma 3rz clutch and flywheel.

First question is can I get away with just swapping the auto ECU for the manual ECU or will I have to get the manual harness from the donor?

Second would it best to use the clutch slave designed for the W56 rather than the one designed for the W59?

Also would the 89-95 hilux/4runner clutch/ brake pedal assembly's work with the newer 96-03 tacoma/4runner?

I see that his thread pertains more to earlier models but judging by the posts you guys also have some knowledge regarding the donor vehicles.

Thanks

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #923 on:** Oct 06, 2013, 02:51:42 PM »

you dont need to swap harnesses. I did a swap with an auto donor. I just removed all the unneeded wiring and used a manual ecu. I would say the slave cylinder doesnt matter that much. Use what you have unless you need a new one. Not sure about the brake pedal issue. I dont think they are interchangeable but you might be able to mod it and make it work.

896T4R · « **Reply #924 on:** Oct 06, 2013, 03:00:05 PM »

thanks for the help now the only thing i need to figure out is what front axle I wanna run. IMO the hardest part.

Capt. Crawler · « **Reply #925 on:** Oct 09, 2013, 10:56:32 PM »

http://m.youtube.com/user/2june2km
Video of latest issue.
Please help.

87toycrawlersbc · « **Reply #926 on:** Oct 10, 2013, 07:46:25 AM »

I've got a twin coil 3rz with wiring harness and everything else I need except the ecu. I bought the engine second hand and the guy I bought it from couldn't remember what year it was. I've run part numbers and looked up pictures of sensor pig tails and things to try to identify exactly what I have. Do these motors have a stamp pad or casting number something to tell me exactly what it is so I'll know what ecu to find?

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #927 on:** Oct 10, 2013, 09:53:01 AM »

Well I have a '98 3RZ and it's twin coil...

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #928 on:** Oct 10, 2013, 10:03:57 AM »

Quote from: 87toycrawlersbc on Oct 10, 2013, 07:46:25 AM

I've got a twin coil 3rz with wiring harness and everything else I need except the ecu. I bought the engine second hand and the guy I bought it from couldn't remember what year it was. I've run part numbers and looked up pictures of sensor pig tails and things to try to identify exactly what I have. Do these motors have a stamp pad or casting number something to tell me exactly what it is so I'll know what ecu to find?

there is a '3RZ' stamped on the block.

87toycrawlersbc · « **Reply #929 on:** Oct 13, 2013, 12:33:57 PM »

I know its a 3rz I know its on the block I know its a 2cnd gen cause it's twin coil. What I don't know is the exact year it is. I'm not wanting to know its a 98-2000 I want to know the exact year

BigMike [OP]

Related Topics