The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread

[3toys]

That's more like it.  I'm getting 18-19 consistently.  Best I've had is 22-ish, worst was fairly recent, with vicious headwind, doing 80+mph...16.2mpg...  Put on 35K miles in 7 months...

[H8PVMNT]

Yeah nothing porks fuel in a Toyota 4 banger like a headwind. We have constant wind where I live and it seems like everything is 200 miles away and you are always driving into the wind.  It keeps me running 35s and trying to keep that sweet gearing .

[H8PVMNT]

So I pulled a dumbass at Christmas and did a monster truck manouver off a hard snow bank that ended in 6 teeth sheered off my front ring gear.  I have been too broke to buy a new set of 5.29s due to business expenses but I want to get some snow wheeling in this year so I did the unthinkable and dug some stock thirds out of the parts shed, welded up the diffs, re-set the backlash and installed them.  The worst part is they are out of an '81 so they are even 3.90s instead of the typical 4.10s.  I now have 26% higher gearing than I had with 5.29s and it is as if I had 44s on insdead of 35s as far as gearing.

The reason I am posting this up here is because this is a pretty cool testamonial on the 3RZ.  Even though I have this dog dooky gearing the thing still accelerates well and pulls 75 on the highway no problem.  I just don't use 5th gear and the jump from 3rd to 4th is HUGE, but by george the 3RZ does it good enough to still be practical. 

Thank God I have 4.7 gears in the t-case so I can wheel it with decent low range!

[jeepish]

I am in the process of putting together a swap of a 2000 3RZ from a rolled Tacoma into my 1986 Toyota truck.  It was a 22ret before (now only 22re) but still has the 22ret gauge cluster with the tach, oil PSI, volts.  I had thought about swapping in the entire dash and cluster along with wiring into my 86, but I would like to have the oil and volts.  I need to decide if I want the Taco dash more than I want the oil and volts gauges.

I can't seem to find any Tacoma gauge clusters that had oil and volts.  This would allow for the best of both worlds.  Any seen one?  What year was it?  4 cyl or V6?

[rcbro]

Seems like a bunch of work for little reward.

You don't need any of the taco harness or panel because you already have an efi truck.

Everything the motor needs to run is already at ur current efi ecu in the kick.

[jeepish]

Yeah.  My dash is crap and I was hoping to swap in the dash since I have it from the parts truck.  I really like the oil psi and volts though.  If I could get a cluster with those, I would make the swap!

[rcbro]

Why not just add two gauges to the taco dash then?

[jeepish]

I really don't think there is any way to merge the pair.  I could have external gauges, but really hate that.  Here is pics of a stock Tacoma and stock 22ret cluster.  They aren't even the same shape on top.

[H8PVMNT]

Other than the curve at the top, they are about the same profile.  I fit the 3RZ cluster pretty easy in my 1st gen 4runner dash by triming a bit with a dremel and adding some tabs made from plumbers tape so it bolts right into place. On the other had alot of guys have done the entire dash and it looks pretty easy.

I want real oil and an volt meter too but I think I'll just put them in an altimeter pod... Should look stock enough.

[Cheesemaker]

That 22RTE cluster will work, just need to know what resistors and such to make it work.  88Pathy's (originally 4Thewkn's for reference in this thread), Mike's, and Marlin's, all use the OEM dash their truck came with. 

[jeepish]

I think I am sticking with the 22ret cluster and dash with the wiring mods.  I don't want to lose the oil and volts and don't want to try to hack the gauge cluster into the 2000 dash.  I might keep the dash to do the swap at a later date.

[Cheesemaker]

Somewhere on IH8Mud.com there is a fix to get your temp gauge to read accurately.  The temp/oil psi gauge are a step above idiot lights.  But there is a fix to get them to read correctly. 

[chromewontgetyouhome]

Awesome thread!  I have a few questions.   I have a 2rz out of a 2003 2wd Tacoma with manual trans,  it came with the complete harness and W59 trans.  I don't know what I'm going to put it in yet.   Can I use a flywheel and clutch out of of a 3rz for better clutch options?

I also have a complete gear driven transfer case with 23 spline 4.7 MC gears in it.  I don't want to put duals in my next crawler,  what are my 23 spline options for a transmission to use with the 2rz?  Can I use a 5 speed tranny that came behind a 3.0 or 3.4 and buy the adapter for the transfercase?  What bell housing do I need to source?  Thanks!!!

[Benji]

What wiring harness from the taco is the downstream 02 sensor plug in it.. i have just the motor and dash harness from a donor. Do i need to go junk yard hunting again?

[skittles_2000]

I have been reading this thread and got curious about doing a body swap instead of an engine swap.  For example, take a first gen 4runner body and put it on a 3rd gen 4runner frame with intact 3rz drivetrain.  Is this a bad idea?  Easier than an engine swap?  Any merit with doing this?  Just tell me to shut up if this has been discussed before.  Thanks

[H8PVMNT]

I don't know there are alot of advantages to the older style frame and drivetrain for a build platform, not that the later model stuff is bad.  I used my '90s truck frame and redid the rear body mounts to put a 1st gen 4Runner body on it but the entire front of the frame pretty much lined up.  I don't know if it would be that easy on a tacoma style frame...

The wireing would still be pretty much the same amount of work since we are talking either laying the later harness in the older body or splicing things in like usual. I guess it just depends on which pile of parts you have laying around.

[jeepish]

So another question that I did not find an answer for in the searches.

What AC compressor do people use?  The 3rz or the 22re?  I would like to just keep the ac system sealed and mount the compressor on the 3rz.  Is it possible?  I know they use different belts, but I could deal with that somehow.

[H8PVMNT]

I think you need the 3RZ AC stuff on the engine side.  It's really easy to recharge AC with the R134 kits at walmart.  Don't stress out if you have to crack it open.

[skittles_2000]

I am looking to buy a first gen 4runner and would like to eventually swap in a 2rz/3rz.  I am having difficulty finding 4runners with 22re and 5 speeds that aren't ragged out.  There are currently a lot more options for nice v6 autos in my area (central FL).  If a 2rz/3rz swap is an option I definitely want to have, am I simply better off waiting for a 22re 5 speed (and probably paying a bit more for it than a v6).  If I went the v6 route I know I would likely replace the engine and tranny when I did a swap but what are the headaches am I going to have that I would not have had I started with a 22re 5 speed?  (Deep down I am hoping t to hear that the headaches aren't really that much more but honesty is what I really need).  BTW, I am not interested in doing a 3.4 engine swap.  Thanks

[3toys]

There would be a good bit to change.  Motor mounts cut off and relocated.  Crossmember relocated.  Electrical would be a bit different.   It's up to you.  Yes a 22re equipped Runner would save you a lot of headache and time...

Chilkat makes a 4cyl to V6 conversion motor mount, but not the other way around.  Not many people consider dropping a couple cylinders in their conversion.   May I ask why not the 3.4?

[skittles_2000]

There would be a good bit to change.  Motor mounts cut off and relocated.  Crossmember relocated.  Electrical would be a bit different.   It's up to you.  Yes a 22re equipped Runner would save you a lot of headache and time...

Chilkat makes a 4cyl to V6 conversion motor mount, but not the other way around.  Not many people consider dropping a couple cylinders in their conversion.   May I ask why not the 3.4?

Saving headache and time is important for sure, so sounds like if I want the 2/3rz, I should be patient and find the right 4runner first. 
As to why not the 3.4...and first off let me say that I am a complete newbie so my info could be way off...but with that said, I would like to keep costs down (I have heard the 2/3rz is cheaper to purchase and maintain than a 3.4), fuel economy up (I read the 2/3rz does a little better than the 3.4), and I have heard the 2/3rz is easier to work on.  But again, I could be completely off on these and could be persuaded to re-consider the 3.4 if y'all think I am way off base here.  I have also read that the 3.4 is a damn fine engine so...

[3toys]

I did a 3rz in my pickup.  I love it and did the swap entirely by myself and in my driveway.  My truck is lifted 5-6inches and I only have 33s right now.  35s and factory 4.88s when these tires wear out(60k miles and counting)...  I've put ~50K miles on my 3rz in just under a year.  It runs like a top, and gets 16-21mpg.  Depending on wind, my foot, and/or terrain.  It still pulls fine with the 33s and 4.10s, though it won't win many races on the road.  It loves to rev, and takes all I ask of it.  A true Toy engine.... The 3rz was complete bolt in swap with the Chilkat mounts.

Now I also have an 88 Runner factory V6 5-spd, that I will be doing a 3.4 swap in.  Because the 3.4 is a sensational engine and its also a bolt in deal.  It is a larger engine so it will be a little more difficult to work on, but none of it is bad.  Go work on a Ford Aerostar or Chevy Astro and you'll be grateful for all the room in a 3.4 engine bay... 

And mileage in a 3.4 can be a little worse, but the torque and power is considerably more than the 3rz.  Towing would be easier and power upgrades are readily available.   Look around, and it'd be difficult to find a whole lotta bad about the 3.4 when its properly maintained and not massively abused.  You can't expect a Tacoma with a 3.4 and stock drivetrain to mud bog on 44s, running at redline all day, and last for 20 years.....

[Benji]

Found a guy on pirate that advertised stand alone harnesses. I contacted him and sent him my motor & dash harness and here is what i got back.


Very nice work, awesome customer service, and i had it back in 2 weeks! Added relay's where needed and labeled all the wires. Like i said top notch.. and the kicker.. his price was less than $300... Thats $200 cheaper than the next competition. Not sure if i can give out his name, but pm me and i'll give ya his contact info if needed.

[rcbro]

How many wires were you required to hook up? Knowing your motor needs 3 relays. COR, EFI, Fuel and the dummy gauges seems like you may have over paid plus the cost of shipping everything both ways.

It's truly amazing how simple these motors are once you understand what they need and where it's at. Having proper diagrams makes things extremely simply. I've done several swaps now both in person, and conversions for people and really enjoy it. 

If your rig is already efi, it's a 2 hour job and uses everything ur old motor did. Super clean install and nearly painless.

[GRW]

So I am working on my 3RZ swap and have been doing a lot of reading on different sites.
The links (that still work) helped a lot, but I still have some questions.
Some of my questions I have answered as I progressed in the tear down.
One of those questions was on the inside Dia of the throughout bearing ( trany shaft dia).
Without getting a mic they appear to be the same.
I am leaning towards swaping in the full harness (minus item I don't need).
This is due to my 22RE still being in good shape and if it does not sell I will put it in another truck and may need the harness.
My truck was a carb truck (with a 22RE swapped in) so it has the G52 trans in it.
QUESTIONs:
#1. A. How have the G52's been holding up (for those that have done the swap with that trans?
       B. What exactly does " Heavy Duty" mean (listed in on Marlins site under trans rebuild)?
#2. What clutch's do you recommend/like?
#3. Any help (input) on the electrical would be greatly appreciated (not fully comfortable at this point). 

No I don't want to swap in the Tacoma interior (gone anyway), it was a plane Jane & my Xtra cab is an SR5. The Taco was a 96, I did not keep the cluster but I kept the ignition. I did keep the complete harness, along with the trans & t-case (for now) the complete fuel system, evap system exc.
I do not plan on changing my t-cases location (drive lines are $$$).
As for truck it has dual cases (stock gears)  4.88's (with e-lockers) in the punkins and is running on 35's

[3toys]

They say the G trans is a decent trans, although mine disintegrated all gears except 4th.  It had 200K miles on it though...

I'm curious about the "Heavy Duty" also...

I used Marlins 1200lb clutch kit.  It's held up great for 50K miles so far, and that's in one year.

Electrical is not bad.  Get FSM for 3RZ and a you may find an FSM for the 84-85.  Compare colors with what you have and what's in your diagrams.  Eliminate what you don't want on the 3RZ, i.e. if you're getting rid of A/C if equipped.  Splice in your power and relays where needed(keyed power, run power, etc).  I found it helps to use the under hood relay/fuse block from the 3RZ.  That's my experience anyway.

I did mine in my driveway, by myself.  From beginning to end.  Took 3 days of physically removing engine, cleaning, bending hard fuel lines, mounting Walbro external pump, and installing new engine.  Took 2 weeks of studying diagrams at night and redoing my 3RZ harness, prior to getting under the hood...

[GRW]

Thanks 3toys for the input. 
My trany has about 115,XXX on it so I am going to give it a go (unless something comes up before I am finished).

Someone posted the 96 Tacoma electrical (can't seem to open it at work) but I printed it off and have it at home (black & white).
I also have the 86 pickup 4runner toyota manual at home (my truck was converted to EFI with an 86 4runner harness).

So I am hoping with some light reading and some hair loss if I can figure this out. 

I am also looking at doing the timing chain and head gasket before it goes in for the final time.
What are some good sources for the 96 3RZ or is it worth buying a manual just for the info on the engine?

[3toys]

You may find it online, but me personally, I like having the factory manual for electrical.  So I ordered on online, but I don't remember the source right off.  They sent me two, but its for a '98 3RZ...  But I have an extra one of those somewhere....

I had mine completely rebuilt with LCEs master kit.  Engine had 140K miles on it, and when we broke it down, you could still see the factory crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls.  But I didn't know, and I didn't want to remove it later for a rebuild and since I already had it budgeted and sitting in the back of my truck, I just took it to the machine shop.  Their parts were top notch, expensive, but seemingly great quality.  So I recommend them. There are numerous other sources online for cheaper parts, so its your call.  But I'm a big believer in you get what you pay for, especially in Toyotas.

[GRW]

From what I have seen and read I am going to "plan" on just replacing the head gasket and timing chains (guides exc) before the final install of the motor. That is unless I find something ugly when I pull the head off. Before I picked up the Tacoma I heard it run and drove it (if you can call it that) ran great. It was munched.

I am doing some checking on manuals (would like the electrical & motor portion at least).
I have an electronic copy of the electrical portion already (I think it is a full copy).

As for parts, yes you get what you pay for.

I plan on stabing the motor for the first time this week so I can start on the motor mounts.
I also started stripping out parts of the Taco harness (airbag portion to start with).

Thanks Gary

[HogCanyonHopper]

I did my entire swap using mainly the diagrams in the back of the Haynes manual and some online diagrams. Not too bad really. Can't say enough about how happy I am with this swap. Truck runs so good  Best swap imo for first and second gens. The motor out of the donor truck had just been installed when the guy wrecked it, had 6k on it at most. Motor runs like a top, all stock.