0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
A V-8 in my early Toyota trucks has always been a strong desire for me. It's not just the power, it's the novelty. And mostly the incredible sound of lopy cam'd V-8 at idle!!
I disagree with you that the truck with an aluminum block L33 swap would not be reliable. Why would it not be reliable? Arguably, the GM LS engines are one of the very best (most reliable) V-8 engines every designed and manufactured by GM.
Regarding buying something else to take the place of a $10K swap is possible. I don't want another 4x4 and I've owned two early Corvettes.... but things may change?
A Toyota V8 swap is an option.Can you point me to any links on a Toyota 4.7 engine swap in a 1986 Toyota truck?Who sources the Toy engine to transmission adapters?
Here's the big question..... how can I get a Toyota V8 engine to sound like cam'd GM LS engine?Gnarls.
Hey Gnarly, sorry to see your rebuild come to this. You sure did your part trying to build the motor right.If a swap is now being entertained I am with the 3RZ guys. You can buy the parts (wiring included) to make it a bolt in swap. They fit good in the engine compartment. Cleaner looking than a 22re (very few vacuum lines). Better gas milage. It will probably feel like a v8 with 31's and your trans, tcase and axles (ring/pinion) can handle it. I have always understood that when swapping to a v8 or even a 6cyl, that you need a transmission and axles that can backup that power. I think it would be asking a lot for a w56 and toy 8" to hold up long term to a v8 even with 31'' tire. No first hand experience here but I think those are things to consider. Good luck
Hey t,Thank you for your input. Yeah... I need to look into that swap. I know that it's a popular option and it seems to have a happy ending most of time. I will do some research on that. And... I assume I can mate one with my W56 tranny, and I would not have to do any upgrades for the extra power over a 22RE. Seems like an easy swap. What kind of tuning or maintenance knowledge is required? The 22s are pretty simple. Will my stock A/C hook up without radical modification?Gotta have A/C here!Gnarls.
To mate the W56 to the 3rz you use a 3rz bell housing, it bolts right onto the w56. Off the top of my head I can not recall which clutch parts you use. Yep, you will still be Toyota reliable with a 3rz and your w56 and axles.These links will get you started http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=19275.0 and https://www.toyonlyswaps.com/ My understanding is that the 3rz is as simple and reliable as a 22re, if not more so. I do know that the valves use shims for adjustment. That seems more complicated to me. Probably because I'm not familiar with it. The 3rz has balance shafts. I don't believe they require any maintenance, some people eliminate them with a kit from LCE.For the A/C I know that you use the 3rz a/c pump and connect it to your factory stuff. I don't think there is anything to crazy involved.
Given how clean the truck is, along with the rapidly increasing value of stock Toys from the '80's, swapping in any engine is a mistake, I would just figure out what went wrong with the rebuild, and fix it, then decide to keep it or sell it and find something to do restore/mod, likely end up money ahead.
and my automechanic skills? Gnarly Me
I vote sell it to BestGen for one hell of a good price.
What is "one hell of a good price"? Gnarls.
At this point, I'm leaning towards having Jim at 22RE Performance build me a 22RE long block. When I started the rebuild I didn't think it would be that difficult to rebuild one, especially considering the reputation of the sources and services I used, and my automechanic skills.From my experience, there is a lot of planning, knowledge, skills, machining, and careful parts selection that goes into the entire process of SUCCESSFULLY rebuilding one of engines that will go 200K to 300K miles.Gnarls.
Well, until you find out what was is actually wrong it is impossible to say who or what is at fault. If could be bad set of new seals, bad rigs, poor machine work, etc., If you are lucky and it is seals or rings, no need in having someone rebuild it, as there is no enough wear yet to warrant it, just fix the issue and go.
Pull the engine out. It doesn't take that long to do and everything is so easy once out and on an engine stand.
Did You adjust and check the valves by the book or on the back side of each lobe?
Yes I tried it and checked it both ways
I think You did something wrong. back off all the rockers to out of spec loose. Then reperform the comp test. See what You get then.I find it hard to believe that two cyl. have dropped compression after a test drive. Logic tells Me Gnarly touched something and caused a problem. Again.....
You ever rotate the engine over while feeling the valve lash across the entire circumference of the suspective valve, especially at tdc?
Started by alfio
Parts For Sale
Started by dune_it86
Started by richard head
Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by KDXSR5
Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by 83yota
Project Research and Build-Ups