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If u are confident your low compression is not because of valves then sound like it's tear down time
Bolt a 3rz in. Call it done.
I had a '90 civic once, it would consume about twice as much oil as your 22re, but wouldn't smoke on start-up or acceleration. But if I would downshift and brake with compression, then accelerate, I could not see anything in my rear view mirror because of the smoke, then it would clear out and be ok, so it wasn't burning it all the time, just under certain condition (it was leaking like a mofo too). Maybe that is happening to you as well?
Hey r,I should know the answer to this question, but I'm not sure....So... can I just "bolt" in a 3RZ?It seems like when I read posts by those who do a 3RZ swap, they are constantly trying to figure out how to get it mounted in the engine bay, get the harness hooked up, mate it with a tranny, etc, etc.So just how easy is it to sway in 3RZ into a 1986 22RE, 5-speed, SR5 XtraCab?? And.... where would be the best way to start to find one and buy one? How much time would it take to do a 3RZ swap from start to firing the engine. THEN.... what advantages are there for this swap? Seriously.Gnarls.
So far two engine builders have stated that based on my describing my engine build process and the components I used, they believe the excessive oil consumption is rings or cylinder bore, or a combination.
What were the comp numbers after the rebuild, were they ever above 170?
swap in an LS 6.2.always wanted a V-8 in my early Toy trucksI'd look seriously at an LS swap.
I thought somewhere in the 140 to 150 was the spec for my 22RE when I had my valves adjusted? Is it different for different years?
If your memory is correct, those numbers seem low for a fresh rebuild, IIRC, the ones I have I rebuilt over the years have all been in the 160's/170's cold after a few 100 miles.With the issues you had with dialing in the valves with the cam, I am wondering if the comp numbers are unrelated to the oil consumption.
If you have Kommiefornia like emissions testing forget about doing an LS swap.
Any update or actual work on the vehicle/ engine?Once again, lots of talk and very little, scratch that, Zero action.
please explain how you would do this swap for less than $5,000
Hey l,How about this.... YOU explain why I cannot.Gnarls.
You'll need this: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ls-cam-test-comparison/
My name is on a warmed up LS L33 that has been dyno’d at 425 HP. So I have access to an aluminum block LS at a very reasonable price. Here’s the rub, I’d have less than $3,000 to get the rest of the swap stuff purchased, fab’d, and installed. Here in AZ, to get it emissions tested and passed, it would require exhaust modification - including dual cats. There is also the likely need to convert the IFS to straight axle, and upgrade the drive train to handle the 400+ HP.
And when you are done, for your $10k or more, you end up with a truck that looks like a Toyota w/the reliability issues of a GM, if an LS is what you want, you would be money ahead by simply buying a '96-'07 4x4, and adding power upgrades, in my area they can be had clean for under $5k, heck Corvettes from the same era sell as low as $6k.
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