Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 192669 times)

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1650 on: Aug 05, 2018, 09:32:08 AM »
I've read conflicting information on this. But I do know that in 2 cycle engines, the piston have a locating pin so the ring(s) cannot rotate, and avoid getting a gap edge hung up on the port inside the bore.  I raced go-karts for about 5 years, and went through about 4 engines - all 2 cycle.

I don't know if 4 cylinder pistons have locating pins for rings as standard design or they are in specific applications.  Or if they don't have them and it does not matter that the rings rotate... or NOT.

Gnarls.



I have never worked on an engine that had locating pins for the rings. The engines on my carts were mostly from lawn mowers except for the McColloch's and they did not have pins either!!
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1651 on: Aug 05, 2018, 12:05:27 PM »
We need more info!
Get to testing!
Assuming and guessing time has passed.
Chop chop!
Park it in the garage and pull all the plugs. Take note of the cylinder that each plug came from.
Take pictures and post for us. We will need hi resolution close up shots.
Waiting!

I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1652 on: Aug 05, 2018, 01:07:50 PM »
I was told once that the 2nd ring has the wrong spec in FSM... Take that with a grain of salt.  But when I assembled my engine one of the rings was tighter than the specs but was considered normal...


Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1653 on: Aug 05, 2018, 06:45:34 PM »
I was told once that the 2nd ring has the wrong spec in FSM... Take that with a grain of salt.  But when I assembled my engine one of the rings was tighter than the specs but was considered normal...



Hey E,

Well... yes...  I have seen on the web multiple posts with different ring gap specs for early Toy engines.  Sometimes I can't determine what engine is being referenced.  And, yes some specs in my 85 and 86 Toyota FSM have numbers that I don't believe are correct.


Here's an old (quote from engnbldr (Ted) on ring gap.  By the way I think Ted has forgotten more knowledge about building engines that most "experts" will ever know.

http://4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/695017.html


">>>*Ring end gap should always be checked, we find the Hastings ring sets come out snugger than all other brands by just a tad. I like the ones Rockproducts supplies, usually we check them and stick them in...Hastings is a good piece, though.

*When we build an engine inhouse (don't ask, I am retired *insert lazy*...*LOL**..) we use .018"-.020" for the top ring end gaps and anything within the plus/minus specs for the 2nds and oil rings.

The reason is that if everything is perfect then minimums are of no concern. Now I know that you and I ARE perfect (well, me anyway) *heehee..but every once in awhile a fresh engine will be operated with upset tuning.

Along comes the enemy, it's name is heat. If the gap is too close, the ring can heat up and expand, jerking the head right off the piston, cracking the 2nd ring land, or messing up a perfectly good cylinder bore very quickly.

Setting them a shade looser hurts nothing, we just file them lightly until we are happy with the fit.

By the way, DON'T line up the gaps, best to offset them for a beginning install...

*Le' and I are down at the coast pi**ing away our kid's inheritence this evening (she is UP $650, I broke even) We be back tomorrow if you need any help.......*EB"
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1654 on: Aug 05, 2018, 06:48:12 PM »
We need more info!
Get to testing!
Assuming and guessing time has passed.
Chop chop!
Park it in the garage and pull all the plugs. Take note of the cylinder that each plug came from.
Take pictures and post for us. We will need hi resolution close up shots.
Waiting!



Hi bg,

Yeah... it's killing me not to know what the hell happened to my rebuild!!!!.

I'm working some crazy long hours right now, but I'm going to see if I can pull the plugs, photo them, do a compression check, and a leak down test, and post the results for you in the next few days.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1655 on: Aug 05, 2018, 06:54:38 PM »
Rebuilding from scratch makes no sense if you find a cause of the problem and the primary goal is a running engine. You could get a professional rebuild and have a random failure even then.

True.  I could get a bad rebuild from anyone, or a failed rebuild because of a rare part defect.  Or.. I could fubar the break-in.

The reason I'd pull and rebuild it from scratch is do it again myself and see if I can rebuild one that starts and runs the way my original 1986 22RE did.  Right now is just a pride thing knowing I didn't do right!! 

And... if I decide to rebuild it, I may look seriously at Jim's carb/intake product combo and just forget about Mama ECU and her finicky sensors!!

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1656 on: Aug 05, 2018, 09:31:30 PM »
I don't believe in all the "break in" hype.  Sure u want to cruise your engine 2k for 20 minutes to beat in the cam, test drive and do compression brakeing to push rings in to cylinder wall and change out the oil. But other than that it's either built right or not at all.  Let's see pictures of all your plugs.  Take your oil cap off and put your hand over it to seal, what kind of pressure is there...  No more talking, more doing

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1657 on: Aug 06, 2018, 03:48:27 AM »
I saw on the chat you said you used royal purple for break-in. Was it the royal purple specifically made for break in or did you use regular royal purple synthetic oil?

Good question.... just used RP non-synthetic break-in oil.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1658 on: Aug 06, 2018, 04:01:58 AM »
I don't believe in all the "break in" hype.  Sure u want to cruise your engine 2k for 20 minutes to beat in the cam, test drive and do compression brakeing to push rings in to cylinder wall and change out the oil. But other than that it's either built right or not at all.  Let's see pictures of all your plugs.  Take your oil cap off and put your hand over it to seal, what kind of pressure is there...  No more talking, more doing

Hey E,

I tend to agree that there's some different opinions by the "experts" on how to break-in a rebuilt.  22RE Performance break-in instructions basically says "drive it as you normally do".

Other instructions say just let it cool down completely for the first 2 or 3 start ups at normal op temp.  And I think you want to be very careful about over heating it, that apparently can cause glazing.

The guys at my machine shop, who build all kinds of engines, said the rings should be broken in by about 100 miles.

I'll get some results posted soon.

Gnarls.


1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1659 on: Aug 06, 2018, 12:51:05 PM »
So when a new car is purchased does it have 500 hidden miles of engine break in with crazy oils?  Break in is not the concern, these are not the droids you are looking for...

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1660 on: Aug 06, 2018, 01:11:37 PM »
So when a new car is purchased does it have 500 hidden miles of engine break in with crazy oils?  Break in is not the concern, these are not the droids you are looking for...
actually they do install a break in oil from the factory.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1661 on: Aug 06, 2018, 01:16:05 PM »
When I bought my first new car I asked, was told to just drive it normally and change the oil after 500 miles, same 7 months later after the dealership rebuilt the same 3.0 after sinking the truck in a creek(though creeks don't normally float vehicles). :greengrin:

Outside of hot rodding a new engine or taking it deep into the rpm's before shifting, everything should seat fine, under normal driving conditions, the only thing that should be followed would be the manufacture's direction for breaking in the cam.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1662 on: Aug 06, 2018, 07:30:09 PM »
So when a new car is purchased does it have 500 hidden miles of engine break in with crazy oils?  Break in is not the concern, these are not the droids you are looking for...

A friend of mine bought a 2001 Acura RSX Type S new (it had under 2 miles on it at delivery). The dealership had him go 10,000 miles before changing my the oil. It’s still going strong.
« Last Edit: Aug 06, 2018, 08:41:05 PM by blackdiamond »
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1663 on: Aug 12, 2018, 05:43:18 PM »
Update August 12, 2018

My neighbor had to change a battery on his 1997 Chrysler 300.  OMG!!!  Had to remove air filter intake tube, air filter box, just to get to the battery, then remove a plastic splash guard in the fender well.  Now I know why I have never owned a Chrysler product!!  He is not mechanically inclined, a great neighbor, and doesn’t have many tools, so I help him.  That pretty much used up most of my project time to do a compression and leak down test today.  It was only 103d F and 50% RH… I was dripping in the hot sun.

My Sun compression tester failed after about 19 years, so I had to go buy a new one.  Two of the compression numbers have gone south since I tested last.

Dry Compression Test

#1 – 87
#2 – 148
#3 – 140
#4 – 129

That out of balance amount is probably why it has a slight rough idle, and won’t cold start like it should.

I have attached the photos of the spark plugs.  I don’t see much carbon, as I might expect considering it is burning 1 quart of oil about every 600 miles.

I hope to do the wet compression test and the leak down test tomorrow.

I’ve replaced the Cold Start Injector Thermo Time Switch and the Throttle Position Sensor.

I discovered there are 3 things I needed to adjust to get it to cold start better.  It still won’t fast idle.
1 - The idle screw on the throttle linkage that hits the throttle damper, 2 - the idle screw on the throttle body, and 3 - the TPS.  Even though the TPS was adjusted per spec, I had to adjust it to full lock clockwise to make it happier.
The plugs are 1 thru 4 left to right.
Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Aug 12, 2018, 07:49:04 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1664 on: Aug 14, 2018, 08:03:21 AM »
UPPDATE AUGUST 14 2018

I did a cold engine wet compression test on number 1 cylinder.  It only went to 91 PSI from 87 warm dry test, but could be enough change to indicate bad rings. 

I only did a leak down on the number 1 cylinder.

At 80 PSI pressure, there was air leaking at a rate of 15 PSI.

I could hear air in the exhaust pipe, the throttle body, and the rocker cover with the oil cap off.  I did not see any bubbles in the radiator filler.

So, based upon the wet compression test, the sounds during the leak down, my guess is the rings are not sealing in number 1.  I suspect there may be some leakage in the valves.

With the premature tightening of the valve lash on the exhaust valves, and exhaust leaking during the leak down, there appears to be a problem with the exhaust valve sealing, and could be the valve seat.

If valve stem seals were worn or defective, there should be some smoke at start up.  If the rings were really bad there should be blow-by and smoke during acceleration -  no smoke.

Number 2 cylinder at 148 is just above the FSM minimum.  Number 3 is a just below the minimum.  Number 4 has a problem at 129 lbs.

I am puzzled by the lack of carbon burn on the spark plugs.

I will do the rest of the cylinders on Saturday.

Regarding the cold start up....  I finally got it start up within a 1 or 2 seconds of turning the starter.  It wants to die immediately after firing as though too low an idle speed, and still will not fast idle.  After about 1 minute at a fast idle by gas pedal, it will idle at about 850 RPM.

As with Mudder’s experience with a cold start issue, even though his and mine ohm tested within spec, the new Start Injector Time Switch did make a difference.  At $162, I resisted buying the darn thing.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1665 on: Aug 14, 2018, 08:15:17 AM »
Back all Your rocker arms way off  (way loose) and do the compression test again.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1666 on: Aug 14, 2018, 08:37:42 AM »
Back all Your rocker arms way off  (way loose) and do the compression test again.


Hmmm.... OK, that means all the valves will remain closed, right?

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1667 on: Aug 14, 2018, 03:23:08 PM »
Strange how spark plug 1 and 4 look the same, and not much different to 2 & 3, from what I can see from my laptop screen. And not that bad for that oil comsuption. Do you have a lot of blowby from the pcv vent on the valve cover? With the fact that the wet compression test showed only a 4 psi difference in cyl num 1, my uneducated guess is that the issue is in the head not the rings. And I think bestgen meant leak down test.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1668 on: Aug 14, 2018, 08:57:34 PM »
Poor Gnarls, I wish u were closer, I'd love to help u out.  When u adjust your valves, do u follow the FSM on engine position?  I strongly recommend you disregard it and adjust each rocker arm with the peak of the cam lobe 180 degrees from the contact pad of the rocker. Aftermarket cams are regrinds with different clocking (duration ect) and typically will throw off your valve adjustments...

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1669 on: Aug 15, 2018, 05:34:22 AM »
Poor Gnarls, I wish u were closer, I'd love to help u out.  When u adjust your valves, do u follow the FSM on engine position?  I strongly recommend you disregard it and adjust each rocker arm with the peak of the cam lobe 180 degrees from the contact pad of the rocker. Aftermarket cams are regrinds with different clocking (duration ect) and typically will throw off your valve adjustments...

Are you saying that the valve adjustment could be his issue?
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1670 on: Aug 15, 2018, 07:07:19 AM »
Are you saying that the valve adjustment could be his issue?

Hi BD,

The valves seals could cause excessive oil consumption.  However, usually if the seals or guides are bad, I should be seeing some kind of oil smoke, especially with the amount of consumption.  I cannot see any smoke!! It appears that the engine is literally burning the oil/fuel mixture.  But... I would defer to someone with more experience than I have to explain why there is no smoke, and why the spark plugs are looking very clean.  :dunno:

Gnarls.   :inthedark:

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1671 on: Aug 15, 2018, 07:11:45 AM »
Not quite.  Right now I see 2 different issues, oil consumption and low compression. If they are to be hand in hand it's best if he proves all he can through testing/elimination cause next step sounds like tear down.  I'm just trying to give my best recommendation, assisting diagnosis of a vehicle online is alot like holding your phone to an engine and asking your friend if he can tell u what's wrong, lol.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1672 on: Aug 15, 2018, 07:20:13 AM »
Poor Gnarls, I wish u were closer, I'd love to help u out.  When u adjust your valves, do u follow the FSM on engine position?  I strongly recommend you disregard it and adjust each rocker arm with the peak of the cam lobe 180 degrees from the contact pad of the rocker. Aftermarket cams are regrinds with different clocking (duration ect) and typically will throw off your valve adjustments...

Hey E,

Thanks, yeah if I were closer I'd definitely take anyone up on some input on this.

I have adjusted the valve lash both ways a number times.  I cannot see how this will have any affect on the oil consumption?  I do understand that a common way to adjust valve lash is to rotate the cam to the bottom of the  base circle or heel (opposite of the peak of the lobe-nose), so any ramp on the profile will not affect the correct lash reading.

The valve lash *could* affect the compression reading, due to some overlap in the profile.  AND... this 261C Crawler cam does have more overlap than most aftermarket 22 cams that I've seen.  It also has a tight valve lash spec at .007" & .009".

I don't see how the cam or valve events would cause excessive oil consumption?  :dunno:

Gnarls. :inthedark:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1673 on: Aug 15, 2018, 07:29:09 AM »
Strange how spark plug 1 and 4 look the same, and not much different to 2 & 3, from what I can see from my laptop screen. And not that bad for that oil comsuption. Do you have a lot of blowby from the pcv vent on the valve cover? With the fact that the wet compression test showed only a 4 psi difference in cyl num 1, my uneducated guess is that the issue is in the head not the rings. And I think bestgen meant leak down test.

Hey G,

I can't see any smoke, no blow-by.  After driving, engine hot, when I pull the oil dip stick I can hear pressure releasing, so I know there is air pressure in the crankcase and oil pan.  I think the amount of air pressure is not normal.  I don't see or hear any excessive blow by out the PVC valve, tubing, or rocker cover gasket.

The tail pipe is black, and not a grayish color, so I see there is probably excessive carbon in the exhaust.

Yes, I am puzzled by the clean plugs. I would think I'd see more carbon build up, and even pre-fouling.  They are absolutely clean!  Just a very tiny look into number 1 cylinder through the spark plug hole looks like the top of the piston is carbon'd up... I don't know if it is excessive or normal.  Only an complete engine tear-down and inspection will give me the answers.  :disturbed:

Gnarls.  :inthedark:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1674 on: Aug 15, 2018, 07:36:02 AM »
Not quite.  Right now I see 2 different issues, oil consumption and low compression. If they are to be hand in hand it's best if he proves all he can through testing/elimination cause next step sounds like tear down.  I'm just trying to give my best recommendation, assisting diagnosis of a vehicle online is alot like holding your phone to an engine and asking your friend if he can tell u what's wrong, lol.

Some years ago, someone on Pirate posted a comment while the thread was trying to analyze a problem.... "Diagnosing engine sounds over the internet is like sniffing flowers through your butt".... LOL...

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1675 on: Aug 15, 2018, 07:43:26 AM »
As far as the fuel mixture and the amount oil being burned.....  The oil consumption is about 1/2 of a quart approximately every tank full of gas.. about 600 miles per quart.

So if I were to add 1/2 quart of motor oil to a full tank of gas (15 gallons), on a healthy 22RE would I see smoke in my exhaust???  Would that cause spark plugs to color with carbon?  I don't know.  I DO know I don't *see* any exhaust smoke and the spark plugs are clean.

AND.... my compression numbers on 2 cylinders are way too low.  On a fresh rebuild, the compression number should be up around 170+, at least that is what I have seen in posted numbers for a 22 in the past.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Aug 15, 2018, 07:57:42 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Snowtoy

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1676 on: Aug 15, 2018, 11:18:16 AM »
Yes, the comp numbers should all be above 170.  If the age of your motor was unknown and I. had those numbers after a valve adjustment, it would be a year down and rebuild.

However, before doing that, I would do as bestgen stated above and redo the leak down test.

As far as not seeing pull in plugs, hard to say, there may not be enough oil change in each stroke to build up, just enough to collect on the exhaust as it cools down.  To 22r's I have had have blown snow like a fog machine, one was a stuck open exhaust valve, the other had a hole in the piston, the only one that had an oil chatted plug, was there one with a hole in the piston.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1677 on: Aug 15, 2018, 12:16:06 PM »
If u are confident your low compression is not because of valves then sound like it's tear down time

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1678 on: Aug 15, 2018, 03:21:54 PM »
Hey G,

I can't see any smoke, no blow-by.  After driving, engine hot, when I pull the oil dip stick I can hear pressure releasing, so I know there is air pressure in the crankcase and oil pan.  I think the amount of air pressure is not normal.  I don't see or hear any excessive blow by out the PVC valve, tubing, or rocker cover gasket.

The tail pipe is black, and not a grayish color, so I see there is probably excessive carbon in the exhaust.

Yes, I am puzzled by the clean plugs. I would think I'd see more carbon build up, and even pre-fouling.  They are absolutely clean!  Just a very tiny look into number 1 cylinder through the spark plug hole looks like the top of the piston is carbon'd up... I don't know if it is excessive or normal.  Only an complete engine tear-down and inspection will give me the answers.  :disturbed:

Gnarls.  :inthedark:

I had a '90 civic once, it would consume about twice as much oil as your 22re, but wouldn't smoke on start-up or acceleration. But if I would downshift and brake with compression, then accelerate, I could not see anything in my rear view mirror because of the smoke, then it would clear out and be ok, so it wasn't burning it all the time, just under certain condition (it was leaking like a mofo too). Maybe that is happening to you as well?

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1679 on: Aug 15, 2018, 06:11:32 PM »
Bolt a 3rz in. Call it done.
83 long bed 2wd sas, 3rz, w56, duals with 4.7 rear, 4.88 elock front, spartan rear, 39.5 iroks
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