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Hi bd,20/20 hindsight … yes I should have spent more time preplanning and doing more research with the “experts”,.......................
I have done several compression tests.
........... It's just hard to believe that an engine after 10k is worn out.............
... It's just hard to believe that an engine after 10k is worn out, I like to believe it's something else.
The last thing you needed to do was more research prior to the rebuild, I think he was referring to what is causing your oil loss now before you decide it is the rings. As mentioned do a comp/leak down test, that should give you an idea of the conditions of the rings.What do the numbers look like?If you are burning a quart of oil in 600 miles, the exhaust tube should be sooty as well, didn't you run a new exhaust, might pull the cat and see what the leading tube looks like as well as the cat. My '86 beater that likely runs more hours than miles a year around my property doesn't loose that much oil, and it looks like every oil gasket on it has a leak.Same here, even Chicom pop metal rings should last longer than that.
Or you lined up all the ring end gaps, lol. Gnarly installing his pistons like- https://youtu.be/D0n8N98mpes
http://engineproblem.com.au/engine_problem/details/5.htmlI would also bore scope the engine and look for ring wash. I suspect this will be very evident on one piston. My guess is cyl #3 or #4.Also one good scratch in the bore can also lead to oil consumption. Did You experience any issues installing one piston?Read the part about the hone marks gone.
If it's the rings, you might be able to rehone cylinders and just get good rings.
Just to add. I built a motor about 15 y.a. my first. It burnt oil about like yours, if not worse. I just ran castrol gtx. Anyway, long story short, eventually had ringlands fail and completely destroyed the motor. At the same time i got 100+k out of it.I had used total seal rings. I did spec them when installed. I believe they had a bit too much expansion which eventually caused the ring or ringlands to fail.
Have you tried the compression test with ATF in the cylinders?
If I ever rebuild another engine, I will be anal+ about measuring and mic'ing every piece before and after machine work, and measuring the cylinder bores and RA, before assembly!! I will not 100% trust the machine shop.Gnarls.You believe the rings are bad.....poor quality....how would measuring catch this? Not being a jerk just trying to understand/learn CB
... At the same time i got 100+k out of it.
Here's another thought, maybe u installed one or more of the rings upside down.. typically the rings will have a marking that typically indicates it's to face up. Also pretty confident rings don't move around once worn in. And u check rings by measuring ring end gaps with just the ring installed in the cylinder. All this is in fsm
They will move around!!
Has it been burning oil since day one, or did you notice it at "X" thousand miles?
Hi e,Yep... I could get by with just a rehone, new rings or new rings and new pistons. BUT... since that will require me pulling the engine and completely disassembling it, I might as well just rebuild it from scratch. One "backyard mechanic" guy where I work suggested I "drop the pan, unbolt the rods, pull the pistons and re-ring them. That would be huge risk. What if that does NOT solve the problem? What if its a piston problem? What if the cylinders were over-bored by a .001". What if the RA was wrong? What if the cylinders are glazed?... I'm trying to mitigate any further waste of time and money!!This engine is coming apart and then I'll decide if I will rebuild it, or just donate the block for a core charge.Gnarls.
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