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Not good, time tear it apart!!
You put in any aftermarket valves? Like the lce 1mm oversized?
I have 1mm oversized ..
Very sorry to hear the results Gnarly.What a horrible bummer.
If the cylinder walls look fine, you could just drop the pan and remove the pistons and re-ring them, then again if the freeze plugs are leaking, and you want to change the water pump, you might as well just pull it before you remove the head. Did the machine shop you used supply/install the freeze plugs?
I truly believe the best approach to this catastrophe is to pull the engine and send it to a professional for complete inspection and work from there. No attempt should be made to save time or money at this stage. Honestly that’s part of what lead to this point in the first place.
Sorry Gnarls, sounds like you've got the royal flush, 1&2 burnt or bent valves or bad valve seats. Numbers 3 blown head gasket to coolant and oil & 4 blown head gasket to oil passage. rings may be involved, but I'm betting not. Keep us informed. Sorry for your continued bad luck. I've used Fel-pro gaskets top to bottom on my last three builds with no probs, "your experience may vary" as I always say. Do what works for you. Good luckon the next rendition.
Im all about machining block w/timing cover and cylinder surfaces with proper RA finish and using mls gasket
...I pulled the heads to have hardened valve seats installed. This was a common job back when I was a rookie.The machine shop set one of the valve guides to tight. After a week It stuck the valve long enough for the piston to come up smack it.
The unfortunate possibilities of bent valves because of piston contact are there because of the lift of your cam and not checking if you required relief cuts in the pistons prior to assembly.
... Until then it is all speculation and nothing to be learned. Don't give up!
The unfortunate possibilities of bent valves because of piston contact are there because of the lift of your cam and not checking if you required relief cuts in the pistons prior to assembly. When I install a larger than stock cam I put some clay on each piston set the head on the gasket I'm using with 2 bolts just snug, rotate the cam for that piston, then put each piston on top dead center and rotate the cam. Do this for all 4 and remove the head. measure the depth of the impression of the valve and see if relief cuts are required. The valve should be adjusted for this. I've also had valve seats sink into my head from excessive spring pressure, Just a thought.
Per my specs, the gross valve lift for a factory stock cam is .385" for Intake, and .398" for Exhaust. The 261C is spec'd at .410" for both valves, max gross lift. That is only .012" more lift. Would that be enough to possibly cause the top of the valve to contact the piston? Assuming the cam profile for each lobe was absolutely accurate to spec? The block was decked .006".Gnarls.
Any chance the block was decked .060 and there was a typo/miscommunication somewhere along the way?
But doesn't the EB head/cam combo come with new HD springs CB
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