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My bed light switch rocks vertical and has a different style than those.
The fan clutch is shot. It’s only got maybe 3000 miles on it. It’s O’Reilly Chink junk!! I haven’t decided to switch to LCE’s electric fan kit, or just buy a Beck Arnley or Aisin replacement. The Toyota dealership wants $180 and it’s a special order.Question: Has anyone installed LCE’s electric fan kit for 22RE and what are your thoughts on the electric fan conversion?The kit looks very complete and easy to install.
I have this. My fan was all chunked out from getting into the shroud and radiator, plus my fan clutch was useless. I looked around and liked the idea of eliminating the fan clutch all together. LCE claims more horsepower (less HP absorbed), but it's safe to call BS for any noticeable gains. Maybe you can also look into this
What is r143a?
Didnt know if it was some new version of r12 or something.
you can buy r12 on ebay which is what I would have done in your shoes. I myself still have a case of 12. r134a uses higher pressure and a completely different oil. to do it right you have to flush the entire system, change all the o-rings and as far as i'm concerned use a different compressor made for 134a. wouldn't be a bad idea to put a larger 2 piece 4runner condenser in as well. a 134a converted system made for r12 will never blow as cold as an r12 system unless it's done right which involves a lot of parts and labor. On average, a condenser would need to be 30% larger on a converted system to achieve similar cooling performance.
have you done the conversion in Arizona? That weather will test the limits
Well.. I don't really care about the gain. My AC guy suggested electric fan because they apparently cool better and he said that cooling really effects the pressure in the AC system which can make it not work or blow hoses. In all my trucks I never had an electric fan and never had a problem with the AC systems unless the compressor failed or developed a leak. Jim at 22RE made a great point... if the electric fan fails for whatever reason... your engine could be toast quickly, or you just don't start it again until the fan is working. The fan clutches do fail, but do not typically stop turning completely.Gnarls.
I am pretty much against running an E fan on my own truck. I don't want some chinese relay, switch, or fan motor deciding if my engine is cool or not. I don't know about your AC guy IMO. If you're having cooling issues, grab a V6 radiator from NAPA and LCE sells a 190° 2 stage thermostat. Should keep the 22RE plenty cool. With the 22R, you have options for 180° (what I have) and 160° thermostats. I hope to have a V6 radiator and maybe waterless coolant when I get it running again.
The degree designation on a thermostat is what coolant temperature the thermostat begins to open. It does not designate flow or what coolant temperature the engine will run at when up to normal temperature. An incorrect thermostat temperature can mess with sensors. Gnarls.
well if you have a dumb little Efan on the radiator that doesn't change anything either unless you're stopped and the thermostat is open. I suppose it would be nice to set up a E fan like a modern day fan. The coolant temp gauge in Old Red has a wire coming off it that will kick on an E fan at any temperature you want, so it's not on while you're moving down the highway. You don't have to worry about switching it off and then forgetting to switch it back on either.the 190° 2 stage from LCE opens fully 5 degrees Fahrenheit before the stock thermostat, and is compatible with the 22RE. I think it's a good idea for Arizona and takes a few minutes to change out.
How is the heck did MILLIONS of Toy trucks manage to survive before LCE's t-stat??Gnarls.
Wow, it must be nice to have a factory tach in your rig.My DLX 5 speed Xtra-Cab has no tach so I'm way up there in rpm getting on a freeway but, off road the revs stay under 2500 pretty much all the time.It is the 2nd 22R engine in the truck and I bought the long block from eBay for $1100.00 delivered. I've since rebuilt the head with Viton rubber valve guide seals. I'm not easy on any vehicle so the engine has to work hard on the road getting to a trail and she gets really bad gas mileage while on the highway and great mileage on the trail. I am good to my engines though and they get a lot of oil changes and valve adjustments happen twice a year.The bad is because the 22R has no balls and cannot get out of her own way even going downhill with gale force wind at her back but, on the trail my little 22R putts along using almost no fuel under 2000 rpm.I had my original 22R short block bored 30 over and was going to build it but, my buddy needed an engine for his 2wd street truck so I sold it to him for cost of work done and it is running really well with the new http://enginebuilder.com head & rv cam set up. Wish I would have spent the money for the head & cam but, I am going to buy the cam next month and then maybe she will get up the hill without me dropping her down into 3rd gear.
For a poorly designed bad flowing head on top of a 4 cylinder engine as stout as a 22R, 112 or 113 at the wheel isn't enough for daily driver use as far as I am concerned but, off road this is more than enough and I'd be happy with those numbers.I just got home from a 100 miles round trip up the Grapevine to get another bed load of used Toyota parts and if my rig had that 113 rwhp, I'd be able to do 80mph up the hill in 5th gear but, no. I have to shift down in to 3rd and ring her neck to barely cruise at 55 mph and then she'll do 83 mph coming down the hill with the wind at her back which is kind of scary in such a lightweight and high profile vehicle.Another 25 hp @ the wheels would give my rig enough to go up the hill in high gear.
I forgot where you live gnarly but and electric fan is not a bad choice. especially if you like to hit the trails. not much air travels through the radiator and condenser at low speeds. If you want nice a/c performance and added insurance on keeping your engine cool, do it! so yes, the dumb little efan that most every production vehicle runs now a days is worth it. its not to keep the engine cooler than intended its to help shed heat when its hotter than intended or if wired up properly could also be trigger to come on when a/c clutch is engaged. also if your a/c idle up vsv isn't getting the ground or power signal (forgot which one is control) there is an a/c amplifier behind the glove box that has an adjustable rpm activation nob/screw so you can change when the idle up vsv kicks on, assuming you have a 22re again I don't remember what u have...
I understand the advantage of the electric fan, it should reduce the wear on the water pump, reduce parasitic drag from the stock fan....Also, with the electric fan there is the added current draw that the alternator sees constantly, which does cause some drag on the engine.Gnarls.
A touch of applied physics comes in handy here. .... So for the same amount of air movement, that LCE E-fan will actually increase parasitic drag and make you lose horsepower.
Hmmmm... I don't see any "physics"? The amount of drag (added energy consumption in amps) on alternator would most likely be less than the drag caused by the stock fan on the water pump.
Also, the e-fan will be more efficient at moving air at ALL speeds of a moving vehicle.
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