Jrock's BuildUp

[fordh8r]

:psst: Loctite is oil proof and doesn't breakdown due to oil contact with most chemicals. Even if installed on dirty stuff. I would at least clean it first though.

[jrock]

Don't drill the nut. That would require exact placement for installing the cotter pin. Just drill above the nut on the bolt only. That will still stop the nut from backing off once it contacts the cotter pin. You could even use a spring pin through the hole if you wanted to.

that's what I'm afraid of. I don't want it to be a one setting, I'd like to be able to snug it down or loosen it a tad. Or adjust it for different bushings, since my front shackles eat the crud out of them.

[jrock]

:psst: Loctite is oil proof and doesn't breakdown due to oil contact with most chemicals. Even if installed on dirty stuff. I would at least clean it first though.

CLEAN my truck!! NEVER!!!

[fordh8r]

CLEAN my truck!! NEVER!!!

  Not the whole truck! Just the part where the Loctite goes.

[fordh8r]

If you drill just the bolt a little ways from the top of the nut...say 1/4" or so, you could always put washers between the top of the nut and the cotter pin and that should leave you the adjustability you're looking for.

[jrock]

If you drill just the bolt a little ways from the top of the nut...say 1/4" or so, you could always put washers between the top of the nut and the cotter pin and that should leave you the adjustability you're looking for.

Hokey but I like it That's what Im going to do.

[crazykooter]

Heck if the bolt is long enough just double nut it.

[brockbuilt85]

so if i remember correctly, i made it to the springs *holds out hand* gimmie my door hinges

[jrock]

I'll put those in the mail on Monday. PM me your address once more.

[jrock]

Update! Since I can't afford to rebuild my engine and keep it from stalling, I chose to do the next best thing....

[superyota]

 

[brockbuilt85]

so dont worry about those hinges, i got a set from a friend.

[jrock]

so dont worry about those hinges, i got a set from a friend.

holly crap! I completely failed on this one. I am sorry. I'll make it up to you somehow.

[jrock]

[Joey88RUNR]

Pics are a no show on my screen....just red X

[jrock]

Pics are a no show on my screen....just red X

I haven't figured out how to add photos on here from my phone. I'll fix them when I get home. Thanks.

[Gixxer Jon]

isn't it someone's B-Day today?      Happy Bday

[jrock]

isn't it someone's B-Day today?      Happy Bday

It is Thanks bud :thumps:

Pictures fixed! Chromos

[brockbuilt85]

your engine is shot so you.......bought gears?

[jrock]

your engine is shot so you.......bought gears?

Its not completely shot, just underpowered and it doesn't idle as strong as I'd like. So, instead of putting $2k into the engine or $3k into a 2.7 swap, I did this. I can still do an engine swap later, when I have the money.

[brockbuilt85]

mmmmm 2.7

[jrock]

3RZ! BABY! :Yum yum:

[lilbuddy]

Its not completely shot, just underpowered and it doesn't idle as strong as I'd like. So, instead of putting $2k into the engine or $3k into a 2.7 swap, I did this. I can still do an engine swap later, when I have the money.

3k on an engine swap seems pretty steep....

I spent $120 dollars for my 3rz swap.

[Yota87Truck]

3k on an engine swap seems pretty steep....

I spent $120 dollars for my 3rz swap.

  $3k seems more likely than $120 to me.... Granted depends on your resources.  But when I remember to keep track of the little things on projects stuff adds up quick.  Oil, Coolant, nuts, bolts, misc things you didn't know you would need that you run to the parts store in the middle of the night for the last minute finishes....

[jrock]

3k on an engine swap seems pretty steep....

I spent $120 dollars for my 3rz swap.

I dream about swaps like that

[jrock]

Well, nothing to post pictures of but I now have a MC 4.7 rear t-case, main rear oil seal and oil pan gasket. I was going to replace the clutch but the current one is in great shape.

Total time to disassemble drive train, install 4.7s and reinstall with new oil gaskets was something like 13hours.

4.7s are not a hard install but make sure you have a clean working area and way to organize things. Good tools help a lot. Hardest thing would be clearancing the housing, I luckily had a die grinder which made it SO easy.





Thank you to Goldrush for putting the Rush back in MC shipping. Had my gears before my bank account realized I bought them

[lilbuddy]

  $3k seems more likely than $120 to me.... Granted depends on your resources.  But when I remember to keep track of the little things on projects stuff adds up quick.  Oil, Coolant, nuts, bolts, misc things you didn't know you would need that you run to the parts store in the middle of the night for the last minute finishes....

Had a rebuilt 22re. Sold it for $600. Bout a rebuilt 3rz for $500. Already had oil pan conversion done. Bought a bellhousing from a place in Oregon for $70 shipped. New cap rotor and other misc stuff for $150 (with fluids).  I already had an electric fan and other junk so it was just a matter of making motor mounts (with bushings I already had laying around), exhaust which i made and putting it in. Wired it up and it was running/driving in right around 5 days of working on it.

I just dont see how it could even be remotely close to $3000. You could find a complete donor truck for around $1500 and bank off that thing + have a new motor with all the parts needed (except maybe exhaust work done at a shop)

If a 3rz swap were to cost $3000 its time to look into another swap because sure its a cool motor but its not THAT much better than a 22re. Im not trying to be negative, i just think if anyone were to spend that much it better be a damn worthy motor, and a 3rz is not worthy at all. Mine rips a lot harder than my rebuilt 22re with a cam and other stuff, but no way would i ever have spent more than $500 out of my pocket to go from that to the 3rz.

Just trying to save you some coin and the hassle

[4x4yota]

I was able to rebuild my 22R for $550 including machining labor and a new complete clutch kit

[jrock]

Had a rebuilt 22re. Sold it for $600. Bout a rebuilt 3rz for $500. Already had oil pan conversion done. Bought a bellhousing from a place in Oregon for $70 shipped. New cap rotor and other misc stuff for $150 (with fluids).  I already had an electric fan and other junk so it was just a matter of making motor mounts (with bushings I already had laying around), exhaust which i made and putting it in. Wired it up and it was running/driving in right around 5 days of working on it.

I just dont see how it could even be remotely close to $3000. You could find a complete donor truck for around $1500 and bank off that thing + have a new motor with all the parts needed (except maybe exhaust work done at a shop)

If a 3rz swap were to cost $3000 its time to look into another swap because sure its a cool motor but its not THAT much better than a 22re. Im not trying to be negative, i just think if anyone were to spend that much it better be a damn worthy motor, and a 3rz is not worthy at all. Mine rips a lot harder than my rebuilt 22re with a cam and other stuff, but no way would i ever have spent more than $500 out of my pocket to go from that to the 3rz.

Just trying to save you some coin and the hassle

Im likely on the higher side for pricing but Im going off the cost of a swap a friend just did.

In reality, I could likely do the swap for about a grand, maybe 1.5K, if I really wanted to. Part out donor vehicle and everything. But that takes space Most people dont have space so we must buy individual pieces at higher prices and not bank off donor vehicle parts.

[lilbuddy]

Im likely on the higher side for pricing but Im going off the cost of a swap a friend just did.

In reality, I could likely do the swap for about a grand, maybe 1.5K, if I really wanted to. Part out donor vehicle and everything. But that takes space Most people dont have space so we must buy individual pieces at higher prices and not bank off donor vehicle parts.

Ah yes...space is an issue.

Like I said im just putting in my