Topic: ***CODY'S RUNNER*** *REDEMPTION**

[Tallchevy]

My brother-in-law had an issue with his 4Runner. Someone bolted the ground wire from the frame to the motor mount instead orf to the block. Check all your connections at the battery, ground from battery to the body, body to the cylinder head and the frame to the block.

[fordh8r]

would that indicate the switch is good? or does it mean i still got nothin? im tempted to rip it all out! well, maybe i should just get a tow rig and trailer and green sticker that turd box haha

That depends...have you checked for voltage at the switch and does the switch only control a relay (which I believe it does)? In which case, Is there proper voltage to the relay and is the relay any good? How about bypassing the relay to see if the circuit is good? That would certainly rule out a bad relay.

[brockbuilt85]

My brother-in-law had an issue with his 4Runner. Someone bolted the ground wire from the frame to the motor mount instead orf to the block. Check all your connections at the battery, ground from battery to the body, body to the cylinder head and the frame to the block.

ill have to look at that, i know i have battery to body and body to motor, ill have to check  frame to block.

That depends...have you checked for voltage at the switch and does the switch only control a relay (which I believe it does)? In which case, Is there proper voltage to the relay and is the relay any good? How about bypassing the relay to see if the circuit is good? That would certainly rule out a bad relay.

ill have to check the relay.

[brockbuilt85]

ummmm, so get this- the dash lights did work at one point, im sure of it because i though they were broken when i first go this thing going, but then i turned the dimmer knob and they worked and i laughed at my own stupidity. i went to go check the relay last night, the one that is marked "tail light R" behind the flasher relay, and its not there, gone. now, when i checked the fuses before, i didnt look at the relay, i didnt know which one it was (there are two others that look like it) i figured all the blank plugs were options that didnt come with my truck. so yea, getting a new relay today, that may be my problem.......haha

[fordh8r]

Sounds like you may be onto something. :fingerscrossed:

[brockbuilt85]

haha yup! in the words of the immortal borat : GREAT SUCCESS! im curious to know what happened to the other relay tho..........

[Tallchevy]

 

[brockbuilt85]

yup! got everything back together and workin on the OBA system

[fordh8r]

yup! got everything back together and workin on the OBA system

But what about the lights? 

[brockbuilt85]

But what about the lights? 

they are working! the only thing not working is the high beams, they work when you pull back for flashing, but when you push forward to high beams they dont work, not a big deal tho.

[fordh8r]

they are working! the only thing not working is the high beams, they work when you pull back for flashing, but when you push forward to high beams they dont work, not a big deal tho.

Was it because of that missing relay? There's also a relay for the High Beams IIRC. 

[brockbuilt85]

Was it because of that missing relay? There's also a relay for the High Beams IIRC. 

yea, and it wasnt missing at one point because my dash lights worked. if the relay for high beams was bad or missing would i still be able to flash? ill have to look into that relay as well. is it under the hood with the other head light stuff?

[fordh8r]

if the relay for high beams was bad or missing would i still be able to flash? ill have to look into that relay as well. is it under the hood with the other head light stuff?

Yes, the relay should be under the hood with the others. As for still being able to flash if it were missing, I couldn't really say since I can't recall ever having to troubleshoot this problem before.    Unless, it happens to be the switch in the column.    Sounds like you're making good progress though. Keep up the good work! 

[brockbuilt85]

a little bit at a time!
i wish i could use my tax returns to do an air locker instead of paying of the corolla!

[brockbuilt85]

so here is my air schematic, anyone see any flaws?

[jrock]

Your "future air locker" is run off a T-fitting by the compressor? If so, its behind the check valve at the tank, the locker wont get to use the tank. 

Fantastic progress of the truck by the way 

[Slolyfe]

I would run your airchucks right off the tank with larger lines. So if you need to reset a bead or run an impact you get the most blast of pressure. Also I like your idea of the locker separate from the system. otherwise you would have to wait for the system to reach pressure before the locker would ingage. Looks sweet!

[brockbuilt85]

Your "future air locker" is run off a T-fitting by the compressor? If so, its behind the check valve at the tank, the locker wont get to use the tank. 

Fantastic progress of the truck by the way 

noooo, its run straight off the compressor as the diagram shows, arb air compressors have two plugs for fittings, one is currently being used (or will be) for air tank for tires and what have you, the other will be plugged and awaiting install of the air silinoid that comes with the locker.

I would run your airchucks right off the tank with larger lines. So if you need to reset a bead or run an impact you get the most blast of pressure. Also I like your idea of the locker separate from the system. otherwise you would have to wait for the system to reach pressure before the locker would ingage. Looks sweet!

thank you! right now i have 1/4" line for it all, if i decide thats not enough its not too much to change it over. unfortunatly the tank i have only has an inlet and one other hole (not including drain) so im a little limited on how i run off the tank directly. but cant complain about the price

[fordh8r]

  The only thing I see that you should definitely change is to put your safety valve in the tank (preferrably as high up as possible in the tank). This way the internals of the safety valve don't get damaged from any mositure or get sticky from any oil in the system. Super im portant since you wanna be sure that valve does NOT fail if it should come into play

  Also, you might want to add a bypass line with a 1/4 turn valve to the ARB to the "tank side" of the compressor just in case there is a situation where you either can't or are unable to operate the compressor and as long as you have stored air in the tank you can still operate your ARB.  All you do is leave it closed under "Normal" operating conditions and then open it if there is any sort of compressor "non-run" circumstances.   

[Tallchevy]

unfortunatly the tank i have only has an inlet and one other hole (not including drain) so im a little limited on how i run off the tank directly.

You can install a "tee" fitting and that will make it 2 outlets.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=69826

Or you can install a 4 port fitting, run a short hose up higher above the tank and have the safety valve like fordh8r suggested.
 http://www.toolorbit.com/Interstate-Pneumatics/IP-FP44X.html

[brockbuilt85]

 The only thing I see that you should definitely change is to put your safety valve in the tank (preferrably as high up as possible in the tank). This way the internals of the safety valve don't get damaged from any mositure or get sticky from any oil in the system. Super im portant since you wanna be sure that valve does NOT fail if it should come into play

ill get something like tallchevy linked so i can do this.

 Also, you might want to add a bypass line with a 1/4 turn valve to the ARB to the "tank side" of the compressor just in case there is a situation where you either can't or are unable to operate the compressor and as long as you have stored air in the tank you can still operate your ARB.  All you do is leave it closed under "Normal" operating conditions and then open it if there is any sort of compressor "non-run" circumstances.  

sounds like a good idea, i might have to work that in

[brockbuilt85]

haha, more rubicon carnage!

[locked 4x4]

just an idea for the air setup.  On mine I ran an electric oil pressure gauge into my cab so i didn't have to have a high pressure air line in the cab.  Works great and it has a back light that comes on with my dash lights.  The gauge goes to 100 psi and my system stops at 120 so it just maxes out the gauge.   

[brockbuilt85]

just an idea for the air setup.  On mine I ran an electric oil pressure gauge into my cab so i didn't have to have a high pressure air line in the cab.  Works great and it has a back light that comes on with my dash lights.  The gauge goes to 100 psi and my system stops at 120 so it just maxes out the gauge.   

already got a gauge that goes up to 150 i believe, but thanks for the idea anyway

[brockbuilt85]

Got my compressor mounted and under hood wiring ran, just need to hook it up. going to get a piece of plexiglass to go over the radio hole to give me some flat area to mount some switches. and to keep my cb in place. cleaned up my rats nest of wiring in that area so its all mice and clean/wrapped. wish i had the day off so i could keep going on this. also looks like i need to buy a u-joint, haha.

[Tallchevy]

also looks like i need to buy a u-joint, haha.

Save your money and wrap it tight with some silver duct tape! 

[brockbuilt85]

Save your money and wrap it tight with some silver duct tape! 

like the thought hadnt already crossed my mind??? haha, bailing wire and silver duct tape!

[*** YELLER *** [OP]]

looks like i need to buy a u-joint, haha.

got one in the shop if ya want it

[fordh8r]

Go high tech and just weld it in there! DUH!

[Slolyfe]

Broke the Zerk off huh?