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would that indicate the switch is good? or does it mean i still got nothin? im tempted to rip it all out! well, maybe i should just get a tow rig and trailer and green sticker that turd box haha
My brother-in-law had an issue with his 4Runner. Someone bolted the ground wire from the frame to the motor mount instead orf to the block. Check all your connections at the battery, ground from battery to the body, body to the cylinder head and the frame to the block.
That depends...have you checked for voltage at the switch and does the switch only control a relay (which I believe it does)? In which case, Is there proper voltage to the relay and is the relay any good? How about bypassing the relay to see if the circuit is good? That would certainly rule out a bad relay.
yup! got everything back together and workin on the OBA system
But what about the lights?
they are working! the only thing not working is the high beams, they work when you pull back for flashing, but when you push forward to high beams they dont work, not a big deal tho.
Was it because of that missing relay? There's also a relay for the High Beams IIRC.
if the relay for high beams was bad or missing would i still be able to flash? ill have to look into that relay as well. is it under the hood with the other head light stuff?
Your "future air locker" is run off a T-fitting by the compressor? If so, its behind the check valve at the tank, the locker wont get to use the tank. Fantastic progress of the truck by the way
I would run your airchucks right off the tank with larger lines. So if you need to reset a bead or run an impact you get the most blast of pressure. Also I like your idea of the locker separate from the system. otherwise you would have to wait for the system to reach pressure before the locker would ingage. Looks sweet!
unfortunatly the tank i have only has an inlet and one other hole (not including drain) so im a little limited on how i run off the tank directly.
The only thing I see that you should definitely change is to put your safety valve in the tank (preferrably as high up as possible in the tank). This way the internals of the safety valve don't get damaged from any mositure or get sticky from any oil in the system. Super im portant since you wanna be sure that valve does NOT fail if it should come into play
Also, you might want to add a bypass line with a 1/4 turn valve to the ARB to the "tank side" of the compressor just in case there is a situation where you either can't or are unable to operate the compressor and as long as you have stored air in the tank you can still operate your ARB. All you do is leave it closed under "Normal" operating conditions and then open it if there is any sort of compressor "non-run" circumstances.
just an idea for the air setup. On mine I ran an electric oil pressure gauge into my cab so i didn't have to have a high pressure air line in the cab. Works great and it has a back light that comes on with my dash lights. The gauge goes to 100 psi and my system stops at 120 so it just maxes out the gauge.
also looks like i need to buy a u-joint, haha.
Save your money and wrap it tight with some silver duct tape!
looks like i need to buy a u-joint, haha.
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