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OK so I got my engine issue resolved, it was a plugged fuel line. I know that the three RZ sits at 10 degrees at the valve cover off level ,but is it normal for the transmission and transfer case to sit at an angle?
I used the 22re fan clutch. I did this by drilling out the stud holes to a larher diameter. I then used the standard 22re fan shroud
No overheating problems? Good to know, I might just do that then.
No over heating issues. I have put it through some serious torture.. no issues
BTW UtahGuy that 3RZ looks sexy in there
Spoke to Chilkat Designs yesterday about trans. not level. I used a '09 2TR bell housing on my swap and we are wondering in that. i had the same issue. It was an easy fix. Have a buddy push or pry the motor off to one side to enable the tcase mount be fastened to the x member. I left my motor mount bolts loose until i got the t case mount in Place. Then i tightened everything up. No problem. Done. You cant expect it to be absolutely 100% perfect. That motor doesnt belong in there. An idea, you could also try to configure your own mounts by using the 22r/3rz motor mount brackets. You can see that on Bevins 3rz swap I believe. Im just saying bolt it up and forget about it. You will be golden!
OK finally pulled the plugs so you can take a look. I had replaced these probably 2,000-3,000 miles ago when I was checking things. They are all 4 black and were wet with gas when I pulled them... Clearly over fueling. TPS and MAF just replaced. I also unhooked O2 sensors to try to see if it would snap out of it in closed loop and no change then either so I would guess I can rule out O2 sensors. Fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator were replaced when I started having the glitch. Could this be as stupid as having it jump time? I had a buddy's 22re act like this years ago and it was 12 teeth off on the timing chain.
OK this one is probably for BigMike...Put a fuel filter on and no change.Then I got a hold of a decent scan tool so I could see stuff in live time. OBD 2 is kinda cool. Most everything seemed to fluctuate properly but a couple of things seemed odd to me.The first thing was that if I had any more than about 32% on my TPS the timing would retard itself drastically. At 25-32% TPS while I was getting on it I had maybe 30-38° of timing advance, then above 32% TPS the timing advance would drop off instantly to like 15-20° advance which is when it "falls flat" and I can't get any more RPM. Just for kicks I actually taped a screwdriver to the throttle pedal to keep the TPS under 32% and then I could finally get redline! I could almost leave it like that but I am positive there is more power to be had if I could open my throttle all the way.The only other thing was that it switched from closed loop to open loop at different times when I was fluctuating the load and throttle. Maybe that's not odd, I don't know.So based on the timing dropping off after 32% TPS should I suspect a bad crank sensor, coils, bad ECM, or what?Oh and what should long term fuel trim and short term fuel trim look like?
Right now I have a ground from the passenger side low on the block to the frame and a ground that goes from the block near the starter to a nut on the fender well right where my battery negative ground hooks up. The coils have a ground from the bracket they hang on that goes right into the harness and I have no ground from the head to anything.Should these have a ground from the back of the head to the firewall like the 22re? I did put in an extra ground from the head to the fender well a while back and it made no difference.Coils have good power and ground when I test from the harness plugs. My ohm meter doesn't seem to work good enough to test the coil resistance.On the MAF, originally I had a Toyota one, then I replaced it with a remaned one and it ran better but still has issues. With the stick MAF it was beginning to dog out at like 2800 rpm, the remaned one I can get 3500+/- before it dogs out. My parts guy ordered me up another one to test and still no difference, so I think the MAF is definitely good. I tested on a guys nice expensive shop ohm meter and it tested good, actually they both tested good. Then I replaced the TPS and that did nothing either.Took a drive just now with the scan tool. Long term fuel trim is like 15-17% at idle and from 25% to 37% while getting on it. I have played with propane all over the intake and vac lines a couple weeks ago and found nothing that indicated a vac leak. I do have one of those amsoil cone filters and I did a gasket-match and a bit of port and polish. No fancy cams or anything. Is it possible with that done I am just getting too much air for the ECU to compensate for?I know the turbo/tuner set uses RX7 injectors that are a direct fit but like 440cc. Should I consider this route?Maybe I have a nasty injector?I am kind of back to replacing the coils in my mind as well.My brain is now smoking...
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