Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 193410 times)

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #990 on: Oct 29, 2017, 08:06:32 PM »
UPDATE:  10-29-17 PM

I installed the new seal and gasket on the throw-out bearing/input shaft housing.  I really like the Thread Sealant.  I wish I had used it on the timing cover bolts. It’s a little more fluid than the Ultra Grey.

I rubbed a little tiny bit of wheel bearing grease on the outer edge of the seal, and pressed it gently into the housing with a 32mm socket, tapped it gently with a rubber hammer to seat it..  I used Ultra Grey on the gasket and torqued the 7 bolts down.  I went over the torque spec because the spec did not seem tight enough. Same for bell housing bolts to transmission – I went passed the FSM torque spec of  27 ft. bls.

I hope to have this tranny back in on Wednesday.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Oct 30, 2017, 03:37:59 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #991 on: Oct 29, 2017, 08:40:56 PM »
Didn’t a couple of experts here say the valve lash doesn’t go “tight”????  :_oops:

Haha that is precisely why YOU get the gold star!

I set it to engnbldr’s spec, 007 in and 009 out. I would say I was around 006/008 before I adjusted it.

I’ve done valve lash more times than I can count on stock motors. But those were nearly always on the loose side if I remember correctly. I never really noticed any performance gains, just a quiter valvetrain.

The last time I checked a highway tank for mpgs I pulled 23.5. It’s been a while though. With winter coming it may be a while before another long road trip happens so it might not be until spring when I can check out a full highway tank for mpg. I can say my in-town mileage is not great. Probably more like 15 or 16. I will check that on the next tank. I do enjoying getting in it with this motor, so I’m not really trying to be efficient with the gas, haha. And with 35s, it is never going to be great around town.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

blackdiamond

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #992 on: Oct 29, 2017, 09:44:02 PM »
What’s the tolerance for valve lash?  0.001 is pretty tight and that appears to be what you think the difference was.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #993 on: Oct 30, 2017, 04:56:44 AM »
What’s the tolerance for valve lash?  0.001 is pretty tight and that appears to be what you think the difference was.

That is a good question.

It appears from what I know valve lash settings do NOT show a plus or minus number.  The lash specs are in one thousandths of an inch, and are VERY specific to the camshaft profile.  Engine Analyzer only allows a 3 digit number for valve lash setting/adjustment.

So, can .001” make a difference in valve events… obviously it does.  On my 22s, .001” made a difference to my ears when tuning for smooth, balanced, and quieter rocker noise.  On my 22R, the valve lash setting changes on my stock Toy cam were slight, but noticeable.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless. :gap:

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

H8PVMNT

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #994 on: Oct 30, 2017, 07:22:52 AM »
Well it makes sense.  It all cam timing.  Tighter would be sooner in and later out, not to mention more valve lift.
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andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #995 on: Oct 30, 2017, 08:07:42 AM »
When we are only talking about 7 thousandths to begin with, being off 001 in either direction is a significant amount. Perhaps I will email engnbldr and get their thoughts on this.

The only other thing I can think of is that perhaps my pcv valve was stuck open, and jostling around the valve cover freed it up? Seems unlikely though. I would think just driving rough off road stuff would shake that thing around more than pulling the valve cover. That is really the only thing that could have changed in between setting the lash.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #996 on: Oct 30, 2017, 08:42:32 AM »
Just got into work, and I have to say the drivability difference is shocking. Stop signs I can take off in second now with smooth acceleration (after the slowest of roll-throughs  ;) ) and in general there is just way more of that low-end grunt that I am supposed to be feeling. Idle is great now, 750 rpm and smooth as butter. The shifter used to just shake like crazy at idle and now it's rock solid. Definitely seeming like there was a miss down there.

So, I would have to say, to anyone with a 261C that they aren't liking - double check that valve lash and set it at 007/009.

I suppose if I was really motivated I could go back in and set all the valves tight and see if the bad behavior comes back, but, meh, i've got other things to do.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #997 on: Oct 30, 2017, 10:34:12 AM »
Just got into work, and I have to say the drivability difference is shocking. Stop signs I can take off in second now with smooth acceleration (after the slowest of roll-throughs  ;) ) and in general there is just way more of that low-end grunt that I am supposed to be feeling. Idle is great now, 750 rpm and smooth as butter. The shifter used to just shake like crazy at idle and now it's rock solid. Definitely seeming like there was a miss down there.

So, I would have to say, to anyone with a 261C that they aren't liking - double check that valve lash and set it at 007/009.

I suppose if I was really motivated I could go back in and set all the valves tight and see if the bad behavior comes back, but, meh, i've got other things to do.

I would be VERY interested in what Ted or Tod has to say about the valve lash!

Gnarls.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #998 on: Oct 30, 2017, 11:04:18 AM »
Email sent. I will report back.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #999 on: Oct 30, 2017, 12:19:28 PM »
I told Tod I was about 001 tight on everything, and the experience I had after getting it correct, and he replied:

"yes if the lash is set too tight it can cause the valves to hang open slightly causing slight compression drop
when you loosened them up it allowed the valve to close properly and should have made the engine run smoother which is also why the rpm jumped up slightly as well
sounds like you got it right now and should be fine from here"

Again, I am surprised that just 001 could cause this, mainly because I feel that it is often implied online that within 001 is "close enough" on these motors. I would love for anyone suspecting the 261C to be a problem to go in there and be double sure they are set to 007/009, with the motor hot.

Interesting as well that my lash went to the tight side. Generally it is assumed online that these motors get looser over time, and looser when they are hot compared to cold. Hence to typical "wisdom" to set them 001 tighter if you are setting while the motor is cold.

SIDE NOTE: I love how fast the engnbldr guys respond to emails. It always within an hour or two.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

:)bestgen4runner

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1000 on: Oct 30, 2017, 12:23:50 PM »
So theoretically with a new head, valves and seats, if the valve face squishes down into the valve seat, wouldn't that make the valve lash tighter?  :dunno:

Gnarls.
Correct!
Also turning the key backwards was not the trick.
Is it running again?
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1001 on: Nov 03, 2017, 12:11:37 AM »
SIDE NOTE: I love how fast the engnbldr guys respond to emails. It always within an hour or two.

It's really cool how service oriented he is in person! I live in Vancouver, so going over to his shop in Portland is a really nice! If anyone has the chance to swing by his machine shop, I'd highly suggest taking advantage of the opportunity! He's a really great guy who knows and loves these engines!
1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
Projects waiting in my shop: '83 Front Axle, TG Sliders, second tcase, NEW: XD 4.70 gears!

blackdiamond

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1002 on: Nov 03, 2017, 11:54:43 AM »
Correct!
Also turning the key backwards was not the trick.
Is it running again?

If the engine is running and making noise, then turning the key counterclockwise would most certainly resolve the noise.  Removing the starter will eliminate future occurrences.

:grin:
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1003 on: Nov 04, 2017, 03:55:34 AM »
sorry but you are missing the mark a bit.   

I’m not sure what “mark” is missed?

The optimum valve lash is usually determined by the cam profile and design.  Valve lash can be adjusted to fine tune for desired performance similar to using an adjustable cam gear for tuning cam timing – retard or advance.

The 261C cam has a slightly tighter spec 7/9 than the stock Toy cam 8/12.  And, the 261C cam has the tightest lash spec I’ve seen.  Engbldr’s head and stainless steel over-sized valves may have a tighter tolerance with the 261C cam because stainless steel has a greater thermal expansion property than the carbon steel valves, so the valve lash setting is more critical.

Setting the valve lash on a stock Toyota 22 cam .001” either side of the cam spec should not create any issues on a healthy engine.  On my 22R, when I adjusted my lash loose, the rocker tick increased and I felt a slight increase in torque from off-idle to about 3500 RPMS.  When I tightened the lash, the engine seemed to rev to 5,000 RPM easier and pulled harder after 3500 RPMs. I preferred the lash slightly tight because I liked the quieter rockers and higher end RPMs.  I have not experimented with this cam enough to get a good feel for optimum valve lash setting on my recent 22RE engine rebuild.

So based upon what andykrow has experienced and what Tod said regarding his email questions, there is obviously an optimum lash setting for his combination and engine rebuild.

Gnarls.

« Last Edit: Nov 04, 2017, 04:09:59 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1004 on: Nov 04, 2017, 04:22:15 AM »
Correct!
Also turning the key backwards was not the trick.
Is it running again?

Hey bgen...

I have a new clutch disc, my seal and gasket is installed on the input shaft housing, so tomorrow I hope to get my tranny back in and start driving my truck again to get more miles on this rebuild.  Right now it has a little over 200 miles.

So.... if you want to share your secret "trick".... I'm all ears.. Or you can PM me.

Any help or suggestions regarding the noise I'm hearing that I'm concerned about, and have not figured out what it is, will be appreciated.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1005 on: Nov 06, 2017, 01:31:32 PM »

Setting them at .007 and .009 is okay but no tighter than that.    Being too loose is just as bad as being too tight.


Huh? I think you're confused about what I was talking about. The 261C cam has a spec of 007 intake and 009 exhaust. The stock cam has a spec of 008/012, not 008/010

The 001 I was referring to was not what the the valve lash was set to, it's how far OFF from the correct setting I was. I checked my lash before I set it, and it was roughly 006/008, that is what I was referring to.

Hence, my surprise that being tighter than spec by only 001 caused such a difference in performance.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

79coyotefrg

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1006 on: Nov 09, 2017, 08:18:45 PM »
my apologies guys I misread your post, I thought you had set them at .001    :smack:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1007 on: Nov 09, 2017, 08:57:01 PM »
Hey 79coyotefrg,

I quit smok'n about 50 years ago.  But, at my age any mistake I make I have any number of excuses!

I got my quick calculations from LCE's site:

Stage 2 Cam - $199.95
Pro Camshaft Kit - $278.00 (highly recommended by LCE)  only recommended for cams over .450 lift that rev over 6000rpm on a regular basis
Rocker Arms - 34.95 x 8 = 279.60 (without the rack - LCE will not warranty the cam without these)
Sales Tax 7.85% =   $59.47                                                                                                                               
Shipping $75.00 (guessimate)
Estimated Total:  $ 892.00 

I rounded it up to $900 in my head.

Gnarls.
fixed it
WARNING: LCE highly recommends using our Pro Camshaft Kit Part# 1020000 in order to allow proper spring retainer to guide clearance for any cam that has over .450" lift or in any application that requires a sustained RPM of 6,000 or higher. LCE also recommends replacing rocker arms with a new set; Part# 1023015 or a complete rocker assembly Part# 1023018 to avoid any damage to your new camshaft.
« Last Edit: Nov 09, 2017, 09:02:46 PM by 79coyotefrg »
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1008 on: Nov 11, 2017, 02:28:02 PM »
my apologies guys I misread your post, I thought you had set them at .001    :smack:

Haha no worries.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1009 on: Nov 11, 2017, 02:40:21 PM »

Have you been able to calculate any accurate gas mileage?


Just filled it up and I got 18.8 mpg on the last tank.  :thumbs: That is all in-town driving, to and from work. 35 mph tops and a fair amount of stop and go. I am pleased!

I had not yet checked mileage on a in-town tank so I don't know what it was before I set the lash, but I think there is a big improvement. I feel like I got a few extra days before needing to fill up.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1010 on: Nov 11, 2017, 03:29:44 PM »
Hey andykrow,

That's not bad....  :beerchug:

My 85 22R, I could get 19 to 20.  stock except for exhaust.

Gnarls.  :gap:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1011 on: Nov 11, 2017, 03:39:00 PM »
... but I think there is a big improvement. I feel like I got a few extra days before needing to fill up.

With the 22R/RE it's all about tweaking the "tune".  If you want to, you can play with ignition timing a little and fuel octane and get a butt-dyno feel.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1012 on: Nov 12, 2017, 08:19:45 AM »
With the 22R/RE it's all about tweaking the "tune".  If you want to, you can play with ignition timing a little and fuel octane and get a butt-dyno feel.

Gnarls.

There is some value in a butt dyno, but placebo is also a strong force.  When I had my 2000 SS Camaro it was fast. I test drove one of the supercharged Mustangs and it had some a smooth power curve that it didn’t feel as fast as my Camaro but was proven to be superior.  The Mustang held a constant rate of acceleration while my Camaro increased the rate of acceleration all the way to the fuel cutoff.  The butt dyno was wrong in this case.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1013 on: Nov 12, 2017, 09:11:46 AM »
There is some value in a butt dyno, but placebo is also a strong force.  When I had my 2000 SS Camaro it was fast. I test drove one of the supercharged Mustangs and it had some a smooth power curve that it didn’t feel as fast as my Camaro but was proven to be superior.  The Mustang held a constant rate of acceleration while my Camaro increased the rate of acceleration all the way to the fuel cutoff.  The butt dyno was wrong in this case.

While I agree that impressions felt by a driver can be wrong, they can also be profoundly different and more accurate in feeling performance gains on the track that the incredibly accurate engine dyno data could not produce. Ask Ted at engnbldr about his experience with engine dyno data and then with that same engine driven in a NASCAR Sprint Car and the driver’s “butt-dyno” comments… or the results on the clock.

There is an incredible amount of accurate data collected and reported by the technology installed in a NASCAR vehicle, but if Kyle Bush, Martin Truex Jr., or Brad Keselowski tells their Crew Chief to make a change to their car based on their “butt-dyno”, what do you think will happen?

You compared your Camaro to a blown Mustang.  How was the Mustang “proven to be superior”?

My comment was simply to say that while testing and tuning, and in the absence of a chassis dyno or engine dyno to test the actual changes, most of us go by our gut feeling and physical senses.

Would you argue that andykrow’s recent experience with his valve lash setting is a placebo effect?

Or how about H8PVMNT’s ongoing and lengthy butt-dyno testing… are his experiences a placebo effect or does his experience have a degree of accuracy and real change?

Most of the changes and results I have done to my engines, dating back to my 5 years of racing go-karts, with engines that were built and dyno tested by my good friend and competitor, and one of the best McCulloch go-kart engine builders of his time,  and he had a room full of 1st Place Trophies to prove it, has been because of what I felt after making a change.

Since my 1964 283 CU Chevy Malibu, thru two 327-powered Corvettes, 8 years and 3 sand rails, while hang’n with some the best engine builders around, including a few racing legends, most of the changes I personally experienced with my own vehicles can be easily proven by a huge library of data and history by every automotive expert on the planet…. that backs up my butt-dyno.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Nov 12, 2017, 05:07:19 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1014 on: Nov 12, 2017, 10:11:15 AM »
While agree that impressions felt by a driver can be wrong, they can also be profoundly different and more accurate in feeling performance gains on the track that the incredibly accurate engine dyno data could not produce. Ask Ted at engnbldr about his experience with engine dyno data and then with that same engine driven in a NASCAR Sprint Car and the driver’s “butt-dyno” comments… or the results on the clock.

There is an incredible amount of accurate data collected and reported by the technology installed in a NASCAR vehicle, but if Kyle Bush, Martin Truex Jr., or Brad Keselowski tells their Crew Chief to make a change to their car based on their “butt-dyno”, what do you think will happen?

You compared your Camaro to a blown Mustang.  How was the Mustang “proven to be superior”?

My comment was simply to say that while testing and tuning, and in the absence of a chassis dyno or engine dyno to test the actual changes, most of us go by our gut feeling and physical senses.

Would you argue that andykrow’s recent experience with his valve lash setting is a placebo effect?

Or how about H8PVMNT’s ongoing and lengthy butt-dyno testing… are his experiences a placebo effect or does his experience have a degree of accuracy and real change.

Most of the changes and results I have done to my engines, dating back to my 5 years of racing go-karts, with engines that were built and dyno tested by my good friend and competitor, and one of the best McCulloch go-kart engine builders of his time,  and he had a room full of 1st Place Trophies to prove it, has been because of what I felt after making a change.

Since my 1964 283 CU Chevy Malibu, thru two 327-powered Corvettes, 8 years and 3 sand rails, while hang’n with some the best engine builders around, including a few racing legends, most of the changes I personally experienced with my own vehicles can be easily proven by a huge library of data and history by every automotive expert on the planet…. that backs up my butt-dyno.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.

Gnarls.


I absolutely think that the butt dyno has value and can be trusted in a lot of circumstances, it’s just not absolute. I think it lacks in straight line acceleration based on my example.

NASCAR is an apples to oranges comparison because so much of what the drivers want is personal preference. Jimmy Johnson and Juan Pablo Montoya would never perform the same in identical cars because they have different driving styles. In F1 the drivers get less input because it’s almost all computer controlled in a way that NASCAR is more driver controlled.
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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1015 on: Nov 13, 2017, 03:47:51 AM »
UPDATE:  11-13-17

The transmission, starter, and drive shafts are back in.  I still have to install the shifters and exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold, check gear oil level.

The re-install of the starter has always been a real bear for me.  It’s very difficult to get a socket, extensions, and ratchet in the space.  Removing the oil filter helped with the space issue.  I bought a new flange bolt for the top bolt which made is way easier to keep a 14mm deep socket on it.

Next on my list to complete this project will be to fix the rear diff leak, get AC recharged, fix leak at steering box.  I will then get back to adding some miles to the break-in and isolating the engine noise I'm concerned about.

I will continue to tune this engine to get it to cold start up and perform like I think it should.

I plan to install a header and 2" or 2.25" exhaust with new muffler sometime after getting a few thousand miles on it.  A new set of softer shocks are also on my list.  I will also be considering a camshaft change based upon how this engine performs after getting the tune level I want.

HOT TIP:  Since starting this rebuild, I have bought and gone through a dozen boxes of 5 mil Nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight.  Using gloves have really protected my hands from cuts and scratches, and saved hours of time from not having to decrease and scrub them.

Gnarls.  :gap:

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1016 on: Dec 04, 2017, 01:21:28 PM »
UPDATE 12-4-17

I hope to have the exhaust back on and the shifters in and driving my truck by the end of the week.  :crossed:

I will re-adjust the valve lash again.  And because I’ve had the rocker cover off several times I will replace the gasket and grommets.  I noticed the grommets that came with the DNJ parts from engnbldr have split out the rubber part between the two washers.

I’m not sure why?   :dunno:   I have never seen a rocker cover grommet do that.  I may have over-tightened the acorn nuts, but I was very careful about that – and bestgen cautioned me on that regarding my “noise”.

I ordered a Beck Arnley set from RockAuto, and I noticed the BA grommets are heavier than the DNJ grommets by .2 oz.

I’ll know more after I install the new Beck Arnley grommets.  Interestingly, the Beck Arnley label says they are “made in Japan”.  :thumbs:

Gnarls. :spin:

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

:)bestgen4runner

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1017 on: Dec 04, 2017, 04:04:13 PM »
UPDATE 12-4-17

I hope to have the exhaust back on and the shifters in and driving my truck by the end of the week.  :crossed:

I will re-adjust the valve lash again.  And because I’ve had the rocker cover off several times I will replace the gasket and grommets.  I noticed the grommets that came with the DNJ parts from engnbldr have split out the rubber part between the two washers.

I’m not sure why?   :dunno:   I have never seen a rocker cover grommet do that.  I may have over-tightened the acorn nuts, but I was very careful about that – and bestgen cautioned me on that regarding my “noise”.

I ordered a Beck Arnley set from RockAuto, and I noticed the BA grommets are heavier than the DNJ grommets by .2 oz.

I’ll know more after I install the new Beck Arnley grommets.  Interestingly, the Beck Arnley label says they are “made in Japan”.  :thumbs:

Gnarls. :spin:
Goodness, That first set must have been from engine builder? I've said it before and I will say it again. Don't use their gasket set. Also indicates to Me that the valve cover bolts must have been overtightened.
I have a good feeling about your engine tick. I think it will be gone, I hope.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1018 on: Dec 04, 2017, 04:41:28 PM »
i agree with bestgen, those valve cover bolts are inch/lbs torque, most people over tighten them, and that first pic was an excellent example of over tightened valve cover nuts, in most cases, when over tightened, rockers hit on valve cover  :twocents:
Even the most primitive society, has an intimate respect for the insane.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1019 on: Dec 05, 2017, 01:40:27 AM »
Goodness, That first set must have been from engine builder? I've said it before and I will say it again. Don't use their gasket set. Also indicates to Me that the valve cover bolts must have been overtightened.
I have a good feeling about your engine tick. I think it will be gone, I hope.

Hi bgen,

I'm taking notes.  :D

I am often on the fence or leaning on the "skeptical" side when analyzing "things" as I get the facts.  I am man enough to admit I make mistakes, probably everyday.  I have made mistakes as I rebuilt this engine, and made notes.... I'm sharing my thoughts in this thread. 

Since 1986 I have R&R'd rocker covers on my 3 22s more times than I can count, and don't remember over-tightening the acrorn nuts, and don't remember smashing the grommets to death.... but that was then and this is now.  :confused:

*IF* I did, AND you are right about my "noise", you can be my adored little brother and I will thank you from the heart of my bottom every time I start the engine.  Noise...??  My relief will be more than you know. :smooch:

Thank you. :gap:

Gnarls. :blah:

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

 
 
 
 
 

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