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Intake tube = tube from throttle body to air cleaner
Oh, the length of the banjo bolt (not including head) would be 30mm (Since I have the old damper sitting on top the washing machine)
Oh NO.........You drank the Kool-Aid.
Yay, back on the build!Any thoughts on the 261 cam and what your plans are on that end.I'm at 5k-ish miles on the rebuild and I am loving my setup. I have also driven my buddies rig a few times on big road trips (which is a recent rebuild with 35k miles, DT/open exhaust and a 252 cam) and my truck is just destroying it on all fronts. Better pickup and better mpgs, and quieter valve train. Granted, it is a bit apples to oranges since he is running 33's and 410's, and I am 35s / 529s. I still have to do my first valve adjustment after the rebuild so I am hoping to gain a littler performance there.
what cam did you end up with?
I’m concerned that you have NOT adjusted the valve lash
When it's up and running again I can recommend a trick that might just make your noise go away. Old 22re trick that I have seen work many times.
Hey 79coyotefrg,I have not changed the cam that came in the RV head from engbldr - the 261C.I have a what sounds like a deep tick or light knock that I'm concerned about. Using my stethoscope and probe, I can hear a deep tick on the rocker cover and top of head when probing. I don't think that the rockers are making the noise. The sound is like 1 or 2 cylinder cycles - not like even sounding rocker tick. I think its sounds deeper, maybe a valve. I don't think the noise is normal. I don't know where it's coming from. I need to isolate the noise.
When I get the leaks (input shaft, rear diff, and steering box) fixed and the AC recharged, I plan to drive to Lake Havasu and visit the boys at LCE.My thought was to simply change the camshaft to see if has anything to do with the noise, because it should be an easy swap without moving the head, right?At this point, and at 200+ miles on the break-in, I'm very disappointed and frustrated.
If I could turn back time, I would swap in an GM LS 5.3L engine, for less than the $5000+ I now have invested in the 22RE!Gnarls.
Yeah I should really get on that. They never actually tighten over time though, do they? That would be the only thing I am worried about.Just got done with a brake upgrade (Highly recommended on the SFA trucks!) so I'm not feeling too motivated to do more truck work. But it's easy enough. I'll get on it this weekend.
Turn the key counterclockwise?
no they dont tighten but they DO loosen up over even the first 500 miles
That trick didn't work!! I tried it about 12 times just to make sure it absolutely would NOT work. Gnarls.
they currently dont have my cam but this "new" version would probably work well without clearancing the pistonshttp://www.lceperformance.com/Stage-2-Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1022036.htm
Hmmmm... well... I don't think that cam will work in a stock 22RE. At 9.6 degrees of overlap, Mama ECU will throw a fit.I can see it working in modified 22R. For the $900+ LCE wants to properly install it... I'd consider another option for power gain.Gnarls.
I totally forgot you had efi.http://www.lceperformance.com/EFI-Pro-Camshaft-22RE-RET-p/1022021.htm$900 what you smokin??
Welp, I did my valve lash today, and Gnarly, you get a gold star! As a reminder this is a new engnbldr Street RV head with a new 261C cam. Reused the rockers as they were in perfect shape and just got polished up a bit.All exhaust valves and two of the intake valves were tight by 001. It should be no surprise that the 1 and 4 intakes were at spec, considering they will actually be a bit loose if the base circle technique is not used (which i doubt it was.)Now, for the really surprising part, after I got everything to spec (used base circle on 1 and 4 intake) and buttoned her back up, my idle RPM was sitting at 1350. That's a good 500 higher than it was set before. Taking her for a test drive I am feeling noticeably more low end power, and seemingly more midrange judging from a couple hills I pulled. She kinda wants to jump off the line now. Above 3000 seems to be about the same (which is to say, awesome ) Will need to road test a bit more to confirm.Now, another surprise, I can get the idle down to 750 - where it should be - without the rough shaking that was happening before. I felt before that I was getting a miss down that low so I set the idle to 850 or 900 to smooth it out. That is no longer necessary. The idle sounds a lot smoother too, whereas before there was sort of a "chug" happening, which, though it sounded cool, is not normal for a 22re in my experience.So, my feeling here is 001 off on the lash is probably not enough to burn a valve and isn't dangerous (Although I guess I really have nothing to back that up...). Clearly however, there are massive performance differences to be had with this cam. I wonder how much of the hate for this cam could be resolved with a very precise lash setting.Other note, the lobes definitely do not line up perfectly with the rocker pads. All of the pads had complete contact - none were going past the edge of the lobes - but several were pretty close to the edge. I do not have a stocker to look at right now so I am not sure if they are supposed to be perfectly centered? In any case I can't see it being a problem. My cam lobes seem to be in perfect shape, no scoring or discoloration or anything. I guess I got the break-in correct.My machinist who built the motor never said anything about the lobes, and he builds a lot of 22res, so I wonder if they are just never really centered and it isn't a problem.
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