The Tuki Suzuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body

[4RnrRick]

what did the PSC hydro assist run you?

I bought all the PSC stuff years ago, and for this build I only had to upgrade my 1.5" ram to a 8" stroke (old one was a 6") - so your just going to have to check their web site. But I'm not sure if the 3rz stuff is on their anymore - so you might have to call them.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/

Nice work. When you cut in to the frame like that do you use the same ga. metal or go thicker?

The stock frame rail is 0.100" thk. The tubing I used is 0.125" thk - and the material I used to patch the holes I believe was 0.188 thk. Before I'm all done - I'm thinking about just plating the outside of the frame rail from the frame splice near the motor mount forward with some 10 ga (.135) thk material.

[MiniSimp]

I only had to upgrade my 1.5" ram to a 8" stroke (old one was a 6")

I thought Toyota's were a 6" max? 

[Jordan7118]

Me too... Steering stops must be turned waaaaaaaayyyyy down. But, knowing Rick, we're missing something 

[4RnrRick]

I also wanted to mention a couple other "oddities" and general tech with this 3rz motor that I'm using.



Clutch Fan
For a clutch fan, I'm using a 22RE fan blades and clutch assembly. The 22RE fan is slightly smaller in diameter, so that helps me get everything in a compact package, but to do that you have to drill out the 22re clutch holes to 8mm, then it will bolt right onto the 3rz water pump. That is shown here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5302518&postcount=326



Oil Filter
You also might notice that the oil filter on the 3rz is larger than a stock one. I'm running a 22RE oil filter which is probably double the size of the OEM 3rz one. To do that, all you have to do is cut off a little tab on the side of the filter mount since both of these filters have the same thread count and sealing surface. This info is shown here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5318912&postcount=374



T-100 Oil Pan and Dip Stick
I'm also running a T-100 oil pan and dip stick which is rear sump (tacos are front sump). Heres the parts list for all the parts you need for the 3rz T-100 oil pan conversion.

Rear sump oil pan conversion parts for 2.7L 3RZ-FE
**************************************************
12101-75060 Oil Pan, (T100 2wd 2.7L, 6 qts)
15104-75020 Pickup Tube & Strainer, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
11494-75010 Oil Hole Plate, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
15147-75020 Oil Strainer Gasket, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
15301-75020 Oil Gage (Dipstick), (T100 2wd 2.7L)
11409-75020 Oil Gage Guide (Dipstick), (T100 2wd 2.7L)
91651-60614 Bolts (Oil Hole plate), (4) Req'd
00295-00103 FIPG (Form in Place Gasket material)
I paid about $175 for these parts 2 years ago from the stealership.

And for some good pictures showing the differences in the Taco and T-100 oil pans and the length of their dip sticks, look here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5302518&postcount=326 I'm currently running both dipsticks just for the fact that I don't have to screw with trying to seal up the old taco dip stick hole.



3RZ Wiring Harness
Now for the motor wiring harness... I'm not to that point yet with this build, but figure now would be a good time to bring it up since I'm talking about the 2000 3RZ-FE Tacoma motor I'm using. Here is all my info for how to strip the factory harness down and what each wire does in the harness.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5323811&postcount=388
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5323831&postcount=389
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5323832&postcount=390



Air Filter and Intake
Since I'm not using the OEM intake tube and filter box, you need to adapt the intake to the MAF. I used a silicon turbo intake adapter from "Vibrant Performance" Part number # 2773 to do this. Pictures of it are here:  http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5426065&postcount=618

Previously I just connect a air filter directly to the MAF via a home made MAF filter adapter like shown here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5441843&postcount=657

Instead of that cheap Knetchs filter shown in the above links, which I got out of the clearance bin, I also upgraded to a K&N filter (RB0900- $32) and Pre-filter Outerwear (228012PK - $17) as shown here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5806495&postcount=1153

I plan on reusing all this stuff on the Sami, but I will probably have to make a splash guard for the air filter.



PSC Power Steering pump
The factory Tacoma power steering pump didn't last very long in my previous Toyota. And after some searching I determined that is a problem are for lots of Tacoma owners, so I decided to upgrade that to a cast iron TC-Pump that I got from PSC. the info on that install is here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5866803&postcount=1235



I think that about covers all the little odd little tweaks with this motor that I have done.

[4RnrRick]

I thought Toyota's were a 6" max? 

Me too... But, knowing Rick, we're missing something 

Yeap - you are...... you guys need to read more and look at the pictures less.   

















Since I'm using these:

I need about 7" of stroke on the tierod because they are WAY longer than a high steer arm.

Which I stated here:

I also found out that my existing 6" stroke hydro assist ram is to short for these OEM arms. I need about 7" of stroke - So I'm going to buy a new ram.....

BTW - my old ram is already sold. 

[MiniSimp]

you guys need to read more and look at the pictures less.

Guilty.

So how do you restrict the ram movement to turn an 8" ram into a 7" ram?

[DTB]

Guilty.

So how do you restrict the ram movement to turn an 8" ram into a 7" ram?

me thinks rick is getting sick of answering questions! 




Spacers are inserted on the inside of the ram limiting the movement

[4RnrRick]

No, I'm not sick of answering questions...... just had to poke some fun back at ya.....


Limiting the ram can be done by putting a spacer inside or outside of the ram. You can see my old spacer my previous sky arms in this picture:

[MiniSimp]

me thinks rick is getting sick of answering questions! 
Spacers are inserted on the inside of the ram limiting the movement

No, I'm not sick of answering questions...... just had to poke some fun back at ya.....
Limiting the ram can be done by putting a spacer inside or outside of the ram. You can see my old spacer my previous sky arms in this picture:

Sorry, I have a thing for asking too many questions and only looking at pictures.
I really just like to know as much as possible.

[4RnrRick]

Then I might suggest reading this post from Page 1..... :flipoff2:

see you in a few days......... 

No worries man........................

[twistedtoy92]

Then I might suggest reading this post from Page 1..... :flipoff2:

see you in a few days......... 

No worries man........................

thats funny!!!

[4RnrRick]

Worked on the winch mount tonight...

[topar]

I was going to comment on the curtains then I noticed we were getting flipped off 

[Talon84x4]

 

no fluff, all purpose built, neat and tight

[THK Matt]

man that winch mount looks buff man.
you continue to amaze us.... so when do you plan on having in a rolling chassis? and what do you have left till then and whats left after that?

List?

[MiniSimp]

  Nice! The winch will be behind the tires!

[4RnrRick]

I was going to comment on the curtains then I noticed we were getting flipped off 

Funny you mention that.... Seems like someone also does in my builds. What can I say - I'm out of this world!

Nice! The winch will be behind the tires!

WAY behind the tires! Remember this is getting 40's and from some quick measurements I think its like 7"-8" behind teh face of the tires.

so when do you plan on having in a rolling chassis?

This year sometime........ Seriously I'm not focusing on any date - I just want to built it right and pay attention to teh details that matter to me.

[THK Matt]

WAY behind the tires! Remember this is getting 40's and from some quick measurements I think its like 7"-8" behind teh face of the tires.

This year sometime........ Seriously I'm not focusing on any date - I just want to built it right and pay attention to teh details that matter to me.

Sounds like a good answer to me.
you definately show attention to details... thats for sure.

[4RnrRick]

List?

Well I haven't made a list of todo's for a while now, so I thought i would see how ugly it is....yeap its ugly. Heres the list for just a rolling chassis and I left out all the details for the rear suspension.

Finish winch mount and bumper
Make panhard mounts (frame and axle side)
Make panhard
test flex front axle
Run front suspension geometry calcs
look at coilover locations
figure out bump stop locations
Re-enforce lower link axle mounts
add hydro assist armor and winch loop to front axle
Fully weld all axle mounts
Dissassemble, clean, paint, assemble front axle and links.
re-enforce front carrier bearing mount more
add two plates to front lower link crossmember
paint frame and crossmember.
find a junkyard two piece driveline.
make front drivelines (new U-joints)
tap FJ-80 box for hydro assist
clean and paint steering box
make hydro reservior mount to engine
make hydraulic lines for steering
make draglink
fab up exhaust (downpipe & cat)
Look at oil pan armor.
Look at tranny/downpipe armor
Look at flat belly armor.
Look at frame rail armor
Fish plate front of frame
Get rear axle and make rear suspenion. <- huge item
Run brake and fuel lines.
Find muffler location.
Make rear winch mount.
Make rear bumper.
Figure out tail lights.
weight rolling chassis for the hell of it!

After that then I get to work on the tub some more before I put it back onto the chassis. then after all that I can start the wiring, interior work and the tube work!

[MiniSimp]

You forgot:
Mount Curb Feelers

[THK Matt]

DAMN SON!

[4RnrRick]

And mounting the radiator, figuring out hoses, fluids and probably a bunch of other crap too............

[TIMS89CRAWLER]

You forgot:
Mount Curb Feelers

this is great!!!

[4RnrRick]

I decided I wanted a clevis mount on the front bumper, so I found a piece of 3/4" Bar and pulled out my big torch tip (No 1) and widdled it down, worked great. Then I used a hole saw to drill a 1" dia hole through it. Amazingly that went really quick and I was quite shocked at how well that worked. I never have used a hole saw on anything this thick before.

Originally I was thinking I wanted two clevis mounts, but I figured why... I couldn't really think of a good reason other than ascetics of having each side the same. And with the winch already offset to fit between the frame rails - who cares. So I'm just going to use one. I also got started on the the main face plate.

[Redbeard1]

Speachless....

[topar]

Okay since everyone is telling you how great this build is and  Let me just say its okay I guess.    No really I like it  Looks good.

[TOYOTA4X4]

I don't know about the rest of you, but I wonder what kind of unholy beast would arise if we locked 4RnrRick and Mr. Mammoth in a shop together....

It's probably best for us mere mortals that never happens. 

[crawlerdan]

I don't know about the rest of you, but I wonder what kind of unholy beast would arise if we locked 4RnrRick and Mr. Mammoth in a shop together....

It's probably best for us mere mortals that never happens. 

you know i had the same thought the other day. i bet it would make a damn cool off road show on spike.

[THK Matt]

you know i had the same thought the other day. i bet it would make a damn cool off road show on spike.

I agree... i want to see this.

[Redbeard1]

Rick, Mark and Marlin all three would be a killer show...