A New Whatever - MCR14 Break in.

Started by Wermz84, May 07, 2007, 10:32:25 PM

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unclejpl4x4

build thread http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39214.0
CB install http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45467.0
roundeyes http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33294.0;highlight=round+eyes
LC exhaust head 2 tip, EB RVstreethead O/S valves,EB  268c/torker cam , .20 over , metal t-chain wear pads
MARLIN clutch 1200, master clutch cly

Wermz84

I like to Drive!

*** YELLER ***

MY ONLY REGRET IS THAT I HAVE NOTHING USEFUL TO OFFER THIS FORUM  :moon:
except BACON

Wermz84

I like to Drive!

Duffil


Duffil

Quote from: MiniSimp on February 14, 2008, 02:31:45 PM
He made a mistake,  :slap: he meant beach sand, not sandblasting sand.
yeah, sorry I get confused.  IIRC, the sandblasting stuff isn't rough enough to get a good finish on the cylinder walls.  Beach sand is correct.

kyle>>> :slap: <<<me

Wermz84

I like to Drive!

Wermz84

I like to Drive!

MiniSimp


Wermz84

I like to Drive!

Duffil

Quote from: Wermz84 on February 14, 2008, 07:30:04 PM
Ive been leaning that way.
I think if I had EFI, or a carb that worked properly, this thing would rip my ass off.  It seems to pull hardest at like 1/4-1/2 throttle, like from a light...and then when you are driving at highway speed, it rocks my socks in 3/4/ and even 5th, around (what seems to be) 3000-4000 [no tach] Just roll on and there you go.

Of course, in my truck I hit highway speed in 3rd... :down:

Wermz84

Quote from: Duffil on February 14, 2008, 09:45:37 PM
I think if I had EFI, or a carb that worked properly, this thing would rip my ass off.  It seems to pull hardest at like 1/4-1/2 throttle, like from a light...and then when you are driving at highway speed, it rocks my socks in 3/4/ and even 5th, around (what seems to be) 3000-4000 [no tach] Just roll on and there you go.

Of course, in my truck I hit highway speed in 3rd... :down:

glad to hear this.  I tried calling LC today and talk about Cams and what my plans are, and probably to buy it.  But I forgot about the time difference.   :smack:     tomorow.  :yupyup:

When I have the Head done I want the cam there to test it.
I like to Drive!

THK Matt

2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

79coyotefrg

AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Wermz84

Just got off the phone with LC.

Lets see.  ordered a cam, street performer springs, dual row timing chain kit and oil pump adapter.

same one as duffil.  1022024!   Now i have to figure out this whole clay thing to measure valve to piston clearance.  :headscratch:


:woohoo:
I like to Drive!

unclejpl4x4

build thread http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39214.0
CB install http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45467.0
roundeyes http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33294.0;highlight=round+eyes
LC exhaust head 2 tip, EB RVstreethead O/S valves,EB  268c/torker cam , .20 over , metal t-chain wear pads
MARLIN clutch 1200, master clutch cly

Wermz84

It's not to big.  But John at LC said to make sure though.


Here are the specs.
Quote from: LC Web Page part#1022024
20R/22R - EFI Pro Camshaft Split Duration
Smooth Idle (1200-5000 rpm range)
Throttle Body, Filter Charger, 1 1/2" Header

Intake Exhaust 
Valve Lash .008 .012 
Valve Lift 455 455 
Advertised Duration 285° 290° 
Duration @ .050" 238° 248° 
Lobe Center 102° 118° 


Intake Opens 8° BTDC 
Intake Closes 32° ABDC 
Exhaust Opens 45° BBDC 
Exhaust Closes 5° ATDC 


NOTE: Always check valve to piston clearance and valve to valve clearance with this camshaft! Failure to install this cam with matched valve train components can cause engine damage.
I like to Drive!

Duffil


Duffil

it's easy.  put modeling clay on top of piston.  place old, crushed HG on block, and bolt down the head.  rotate the engine over by hand, pull it apart and measure (with a caliper) the thickness of the clay where the valve pressed into it.

Wermz84

Quote from: Duffil on February 15, 2008, 01:48:28 PM
copycat. :greengrin:

Of course. youve already done the hard work.  :gap:     Actually, it was between this and the street performer, he said this would have a better low end torque curve.   :crossed:

Quote from: Duffil on February 15, 2008, 01:50:12 PM
it's easy.  put modeling clay on top of piston.  place old, crushed HG on block, and bolt down the head.  rotate the engine over by hand, pull it apart and measure (with a caliper) the thickness of the clay where the valve pressed into it.

that doesn't sound to hard.  but I might be calling you anyway.  :yupyup:

where do i get said clay?

how much do I use, and just put it where the valves are going to be close?
I like to Drive!

Duffil

at the gettin place. (hobby shop, wally world, etc.)



I forgot to mention that: cut it in half along the indention, remove one side, and measure the remaining side with you calipers.  LC recommends at least .100".

Wermz84

I see thank you.   after compressing it, cut it open to reveal a cross section and then measure it.
I like to Drive!

Duffil

I seriously doubt you will have an issue...which engine do you have, tall deck or short deck?

Wermz84

84, so that is a tall block.  if i recall correctly.
 
I like to Drive!

Duffil

then y9ou shouldn't have any issues...I know I didn't and I have some not exaclty stock opparts in mine.

Tallchevy

:angry: My child is an honor student at Anton Levay's School of Satanic Arts :angry:

87 4Runner redo
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=41959.0
87 Toyota 4Runner, SAS Rig Gallery
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=29877.msg3

MiniSimp


Wermz84

Quote from: Tallchevy350 on February 25, 2008, 10:20:15 PM
Anything new?

Got the LC parts in but have sicker than a dog.     :puke:


Quote from: MiniSimp on February 26, 2008, 06:21:25 AM
Nope, he wasted all his time at the Clam Chowder festival. :yupyup:

:biked:   I hate sea food.   :yupyup:
I like to Drive!

Tallchevy

:angry: My child is an honor student at Anton Levay's School of Satanic Arts :angry:

87 4Runner redo
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=41959.0
87 Toyota 4Runner, SAS Rig Gallery
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=29877.msg3

Wermz84

OK, did some work today preping the block.  I'm going to have some boneheaded questions  :yupyup:   I've also noticed a few things about the machine shop work that I'm not happy with.

I thought I'd start preping the rear of the block before I got in on the stand.

Here's the first thing that is kinda eh as far as detail of work goes.   Maybee I'm being to picky because this is my first build up,  :dunno:  He painted over old gasket material where the rear oil seal bolts up.  So I have to scrape that stuff off.  Do I need to make sure all of the paint is off?  (1st bone head question  :gap: )



Tapping out the Paint in the threads. 


Took me long enough to get this damn thing clean.  Lots of baked in grime in the nooks and crannys.   :greengrin:


New rear oil seal bolts from Toyota.  I could have sworn they would have a built in lock washer, I asked the parts guy "Are you sure those are it?"  :hahaha:



this is fun  :yesnod:
I like to Drive!