Topic: 84 reg cab CO: HALT! Now an 85 Runner

[wakkjobb]

Page 11 brought to you by Pabst Blue Ribbon... "When you've got $2 and want a tall boy, Pabst is your beer!" 

I want to get pics too and measure for bumpstops... the shaft shop hasn't called and they are closed weekends so I'm hoping it's done Monday or early Tuesday even. I'd drive down in front-drive if I had to.  
I may venture into the carb to lower the float tomorrow; I'm nervous since I've never dealt with a Toyota carb and I don't have a spare to practice on first. Also I hope I have the HAC hooked up right; I went off pics online and vacuum diagrams, with the few mods I've done it shouldn't stall out like it did on Eagle Rock.

See? It's out of the shop:


Here's what I've been working on today:


I need some piping to connect the air cleaner inlet to the fender area and maybe a screen with a splash shield on it for good measure. Then I have to be careful not to drive through really really deep water.  

>>Dan

[Jakesteads]

just cause its on 4wheels doesnt mean it moves on its own

[dezrik]

I may venture into the carb to lower the float tomorrow; I'm nervous since I've never dealt with a Toyota carb and I don't have a spare[/u] to practice on first.

I know a guy

[wakkjobb [OP]]

just cause its on 4wheels doesnt mean it moves on its own

Oh yes it does! Went next door and climbed the neighbor's big dirt pile... in front-drive.    And of course, no pics. It was backed in for the longest time while I was doing the springs and now it's nosed in so it moves under its own power. Nyah. 

I know a guy

I'm thinking about it but saw a loose carb at the yard last time I was there. Plus a carb is $30 and I have store credit from a fender that didn't match. Note to self: 2wd and 4wd fenders are different. 

>>dan

[boggerunner]

they look the same to me with a sawzall fit

and after 1 wheeling trip

[wakkjobb [OP]]

It was for another board member; he needs one in pretty decent shape. Mine? They're going to get cut, sawzall/cut-off disc/plasma, whatever.

>>Dan

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Picked up the CV-equipped rear d-shaft today; going to attempt slider install tomorrow with Jakesteads after a mighty breakfast from King's Chef Diner.

>>Dan

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Had to re-drill the t-case flange since the CV was from an early truck with awesome 8mm bolts; it's got the 10mm now. I welded a bit of reinforcement around the drilled area since the bolt holes are really really really close to the edge... seems to work so far. Hey, quick question/possible answer:
I pulled the t-case flange and gear oil dropped out; "that no good" I say. Does that mean the seal between the trans and t-case is leaking? If so, how the F do I fix that or do I just wheel it and fix it when I do duals?
More to the point; is this a bad leak/do I need to fix it ASAP or can it wait?

Also, the truck won't idle since I stuck on the HAC the other day. As far as I can tell it's hooked up right (but obviously not) but I can't tell what's wrong from pics online or vac diagrams. I even made a sketch when I pulled it at the yard but it's still funky. Anyone? Hint? Throw me a frickin' bone here! 

Tomorrow should be slider-day and/or bed-rail day; here's hoping I can get my POS to idle.

>>Dan

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Duh, pics!! 

Stop staring at my shaft:  ($115 with new tube and balance)


1979 CV action, engage!


Mystery sealant on the flange washer... uh-oh:


Strikes 1,2 and home-run!


It's good...


What goes where for the HAC?


>>Dan

[Volcom]

Had to re-drill the t-case flange since the CV was from an early truck with awesome 8mm bolts; it's got the 10mm now. I welded a bit of reinforcement around the drilled area since the bolt holes are really really really close to the edge... seems to work so far.

Hahahahaha, I drilled my flange out to fit a CV as well.  I didn't add any reinforcement and have been wheeling it this way for 3 years now

[Jakesteads]

my cv is better than all your CVs... naaannananananaa n

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Hahahahaha, I drilled my flange out to fit a CV as well.  I didn't add any reinforcement and have been wheeling it this way for 3 years now

I spray-painted where the holes had to be and was scared at how close they were to the edge so... welder, deploy!

my cv is better than all your CVs... naaannananananaa n

Yeah, but I have a winch and you suck   

>>Dan

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Wow, I slipped to page 2; better update this   

Today:
battery tray
lowered float in carb
fixed the auxillary accelerator pump
got HAC stuff sorted out (I hope)
picked a Taurus fan
made a winch hook hanger on the stinger

...and I scored a small ARB compressor for fixing a 76 CJ-5's ignition switch. The bad thing is the power wires have been cut really close to the body so some soldering is in the future. But it works; jumped the wires to a battery and it pumped right up.

>>Dan

[Jakesteads]

taurus fan is money

[wakkjobb [OP]]

That ARB compressor is like $300 from what I can find.


Nyah

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Here's the compressor; I've been trying to find specs for it but no luck yet.


Cut wires for the fail...


Stuck some rebar on the stinger for the winch hook; I think it's better than wrapping it around and winching it snug/tight:


I did the 'float-lowering' wrong since the fuel level is above the sight glass, whoops.

>>Dan

[dezrik]

I have the same ARB Compressor

[Jakesteads]

we need to plan a trip to moab.... we have to im dying to go

[wakkjobb [OP]]

I don't have enough coin to go to Moab; it's the same feeling I get thinking about Vail and Aspen (neither I want to go to).

I may have fixed my high-idle problem; there were a few things wrong with the carb:
-choke plate was loose
-someone (me) had the HAC lines all wrong
-stock float level sucks
-mixture screw was almost all the way out

Still want to get a second carb to rebuild while I drive this one; took it out for a quick snow-bash today... y'know what's funny about snow? You can't really turn in the deep stuff.

Tree: 0
Bumper: 2

>>Dan

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Finished the cold air stuff; need to take off the fender to see where I have to add baffles for water protection after this stunt:

 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zBBo6sQJDk

 
>>Dan

[COToy91]

I have a spare ARB compressor that needs to be rebuilt, but the lines for power are longer. You can have it if you want it, same one you have

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Sure, I love spare/free parts. Would 2 of those be enough for OBA or should I pull an A/C compressor I saw in the yard from an 80-ish Volvo. Dang thing is HUGE!

[COToy91]

Sure, I love spare/free parts. Would 2 of those be enough for OBA or should I pull an A/C compressor I saw in the yard from an 80-ish Volvo. Dang thing is HUGE!

That is why there is something wrong with the one i have, They get way hot when pumping for a while and then die. I would get a york and be done, I love mine.  You can run air tools or whatever all day as long as you keep it oiled with 10w30

[COToy91]

Just pay attention to what side the suction is on if you are laying it on its side in a bracket

[wakkjobb [OP]]

I may get that Volvo's comp since I read somewhere the early Volvos came with the better/bigger Yorks. I've read a lot about OBA set-ups but haven't jumped into that project yet; I want to get a bigger alernator before I do much of anything else. Here's what I've found that looks pretty good to me:

http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/oba-scem.htm

I'm also getting a fuse block from 12voltguy.com to run the extra electrical stuff to avoid burning down the truck.

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Quick nit-wit question:
Since I have a forward shhift t-case (that I was told has 4.7s), can I just stick it behind another forward shift case for duals?
Or do I absolutely have to find a top shift to run duals?
I'm trying to avoid extra work/money if my case has 4.7s in it already.

[COToy91]

Quick nit-wit question:
Since I have a forward shhift t-case (that I was told has 4.7s), can I just stick it behind another forward shift case for duals?
Or do I absolutely have to find a top shift to run duals?
I'm trying to avoid extra work/money if my case has 4.7s in it already.

The crawl box can be forward or topshift. Rear case must be topshift. In the FAQ on pirate is a cheap way to conver without have to swap in top shift shift rails. Ill see if i can find it

[COToy91]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=773859&highlight=top+shift+conversion

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774037&highlight=top+shift+conversion

[wakkjobb [OP]]

Awesome... guess I'll pull a forward shift case next time I'm at the yard--after this summer/wheeling season, that is. I do want/need to replace the rear trans seal since the t-case has started to leak from its output seal. At first I thought, "I didn't fill it THAT full... did I?" I didn't. Now I'm super glad I drilled that flange since I didn't notice it leaking before. I don't want to burn up my trans before/during a trail ride. To the Marlin Store!! 

A (Tuesday--HA!) question regarding tire balancing. I've read about those DynaBeads and checked their site for info and all that. Since they list the amount/weight of beads to use, couldn't I just use BBs instead of buying the DynaBeads? Maybe they have some special coating that's better for the tire rubber or something... I dunno. I'm a total cheap-ass/broke so wherever I can cut costs, I will.

[Quick Draw]

Most people do use BBs.  I bought some though and then found that I would have to pop the bead to put them in, because they certainly weren't going in the valve stem with the core pulled out...  I was really hoping it would be easier than that.