84 reg cab CO: HALT! Now an 85 Runner

[wakkjobb]

 

Oughta try harder/plan further ahead for a trailer this time, eh? Third time's the charm... basic list is:
engine
duals (I hope!)
wiring/GM alternator
remake front bumper
bed storage
quieter exhaust
oh, and new tires... probably 36"-38" I'm not cool enough for 40"s yet 

>>Dan

yaaaaaaaaay.... page 20 

[79coyotefrg]

you get ready to do your 20/22 hybrid let me know if you have any questions.

[wakkjobb]

Funny you should say that Glen; as I tore apart the heads I noticed the valves were bigger in the 22. I have read to stick the 22 valves in the 20 head... so I guess I'll have to get the 20 head resized for the 22 valves/seats? And I think the 22 valves are longer? How will that work in the 20 head? I'm thinking about the rocker arms/springs... too much stress or poor oiling?
I'll be back in the shop in about 2 weeks to get a better idea of what's going to happen.

>>Dan

[79coyotefrg]

if you use a cam from LCE you'll be just right with the oiling. besides the 22 valves are only like .040 of an inch longer.

[wakkjobb]

After I got everything torn apart I measured the crap outta the valves. Seems like the 22R intake valves are about 2mm shorter than the 20R intake. Springs are the same height and the exhaust valves are less than 1mm shorter on the 20R.
Tonight I tore apart the rocker arms and wondered why I'd want to use 20R shafts since their oil passages are smaller... the 22 arms fit the 20 shafts fine; no binding or anything. Wouldn't more oil flow be better?

I am piecing together a parts list; so far I have found rockauto.com to be decently priced for most general rebuild stuff (valves, timing stuff, oil.water pump etc) but I'm going to find the clutch, fuel pump, cam and (maybe) a carb elsewheres. I also want to install a better brake booster and GM alternator since everything's apart. Makes sense, eh?

Suggestions welcome...
>>Dan

[Quick Draw]

Dan, I think I still have a GM alternator, brand new, never installed around here.  I have to remember where exactly... But I'm pretty sure I have one!  Let me know if you're interested. 

[wakkjobb]

You bet your sweet 3.4 I'm interested!

you oughta change your signature since the 20R is no longer there...

>>Dan

[Quick Draw]

Haha...oh yeah.  I'll go change that now...

Alright I paid $90 for it.  But I've been sitting on it for awhile.  $65?  Seriously, never been installed.  I can bring it to the meet and greet if you want.

[wakkjobb]

$65 sounds good; $5 sounds better...
See you at the M-n-G!
I had a dream I was wheeling; does that count as build progress?

>>Dan

[wakkjobb]

After watching DirtCO blasting through the snow (in a turbo'd SAS Runner) I am thinking about:

Hybrid+CT26+intercooler+blow through carb=NASTY 20R!!!      

But in the end it's always     from me...

>>Dan

[wakkjobb]

Found new eyeballs for the truck:

http://www.roundeyes.com/Toyota_Headlamps-Rectangular_Toyota_Conversion_Headlamps.html

Sure oughta beat the crap outta the old stockers...

[Volcom]

Found new eyeballs for the truck:

http://www.roundeyes.com/Toyota_Headlamps-Rectangular_Toyota_Conversion_Headlamps.html

Sure oughta beat the crap outta the old stockers...

Way cheaper than the roundeyes (they are nice but $109 for a pair of headlights??)
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/ebay-h4-conversion-kit-installed-159609/

[wakkjobb]

Thanks, I'm just starting to look into LED lights; haven't searched that much yet.

In other news, I priced steel for my next front (and maybe rear) bumper; 2x2x24 is about $50, add some 3/8" plate for mounting brackets, some more 3/16" for lights/etc and it should easily be under $100 for materials. DOM is about $%/foot, HREW is about $2/foot... but I don't have a bender (yet) so I'll be building my bumpers with square tubing... unless something changes and I can actually afford the stuff. 

While looking at removing the "body lift", I noticed two more issues (of course):
have to lower sliders/angle down the mounting tubes
cut inner fenders for shock mounts
there will be something else I'm sure... brake lines? Steering?

We shall see
>>Dan

[wakkjobb]

Kinda started to lower the body; stopped when I realized I welded a patch panel over the driver's front cab bolt... awesome. Carrying on, I tore apart the dash and am going to re-do the radio mount area. I have two 2 1/16" gauges to put somewhere, along with a CB and the aforementioned rayjo. Does anyone have pics of anything like this? I kinda need a jump-start on the creation process here. I want to have enough room between/around the CB and CD to prevent overheating and the gauges I'm using are electrical Auto Meters for oil pressure and water temp. I would also like to get some Dynamat (or its Chinese equilivant) to help keep heat and noise in/out as needed. While it's all apart the heater core will be replaced too... since it's all apart and uber easy to get to. If anyone else has to remove the dash pad, there's a hidden nut on the far right side and the only way to get at it is through the vent. It's awesome... 

I started a new job today, so the hybrid build oughta be done sometime this year; I'm hoping the block only needs a bottle honing and cleaning. I know the crank needs some loving on the #4 rod journal, but I am trying to keep the costs down. I'd love to get new pistons/everything but it's just not in the cards (or wallets) now. I was gonna say something else but....  must not have been important.

>>Dan

[wakkjobb]

This weekend the block etc are going to the machine shop to see just how much the hybrid will cost; at least for machine work. Still hoping to get away with a simple honing and re-use pistons/crank   since the 22 was rebuilt before and the cylinders look pretty decent.
Then there's the 20R head: I don't want to deck it any more than it takes to be flat again. It'll need bigger valve seats (for the 22R valves) and I'll get new guides since they are stock (1979 vintage   ) and that oughta do it. The springs measured fine so they'll get re-used. I haven't measured the pistons though... how did I forget about them? Guess I'll do that tomorrow.

Anyhow, I'm off for a few   to celebrate my first week of employment.

>>Dan

With the new job I am hoping to score this 81 K20 for a tow rig sooner than later:
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/2179604637.html

[4x4yota]

not to be rude but what the point off using the 20R head if your using 22R valves? why not just port and polish the 22R head?

[wakkjobb]

The 20R flows a lot better; I have some side-by-side pictures...

Intake-22 top, 20 bottom


Exhaust-22 top, 20 bottom


20R left, 22R right


Kinda hard to tell but the 22R intake ports are angled a LOT compared to the 20Rs--which flow pretty much straight into the combustion chamber. The 22R's chambers have more material that was supposed to mix fuel/air better, but impedes overall flow... reducing power from what I understand. There are a bunch of hybrid info/spec websites and I feel that I have read them all, but probably haven't. From all that I have read, the 20R outflows the 22R no matter what... so with slightly larger 22R valves in the 20R (only about 1mm or so) it'll flow even better. We'll see; I am 99% confident my research will pay off in the end.

>>Dan

[79coyotefrg]

not to be rude but what the point off using the 20R head if your using 22R valves? why not just port and polish the 22R head?

the 20R head is made different than the 22R,  it flows better than the 22R even though the 22R has larger valves.   a stock 20R head will make more power than a 22R head but when you bore the 20R head to take the larger 22R valves it flows WAY more air and thus creates HUGE power.

[79coyotefrg]

with better light you can look right into the combustion chamber of the 20R  the 22R  has a swirl chamber that was supposed to improve emmisions but just cut power.  you can not see into the combustion chamber of the 22R.

[79coyotefrg]

This weekend the block etc are going to the machine shop to see just how much the hybrid will cost; at least for machine work. Still hoping to get away with a simple honing and re-use pistons/crank  since the 22 was rebuilt before and the cylinders look pretty decent.
Then there's the 20R head: I don't want to deck it any more than it takes to be flat again. It'll need bigger valve seats (for the 22R valves) and I'll get new guides since they are stock (1979 vintage  ) and that oughta do it. The springs measured fine so they'll get re-used. I haven't measured the pistons though... how did I forget about them? Guess I'll do that tomorrow.

Anyhow, I'm off for a few  to celebrate my first week of employment.

>>Dan

With the new job I am hoping to score this 81 K20 for a tow rig sooner than later:
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/2179604637.html

how tight are the pistons in the cylinders??
post a picture of the cylinder walls and I can tell you if it needs to be bored or not

[wakkjobb]

When the 22R was running it barely ever smoked; just on hard acceleration up a slight hill and that's it. Not during first start-up, idling or any other time. When it did smoke it wasn't God-awful but it was enough to sorta see... at least I could see it. The pistons were pretty firm when being removed, I'll check them out today and get pictures of the cylinder walls. Heck, the valve seals could be bad and let oil by...

Thanks Glen, I'm getting antsy to get this puppy going, especially since my new manager is a Jeep guy with an XJ. It's built up pretty well (for a Beep), geared, locked, internal caged, KM2s etc. He's got some pics of it in Moab at the Golden Crack and it's got decent flex.

Still a Jeep though... 

>>Dan

[wakkjobb]

Here's the block/heads etc:

22 cylinder walls

20R intake

22R intake

22 vs 20 intakes


>>Dan

[79coyotefrg]

pull the rings off your piston and see how tight they (the pistons) are in the cylinders.  if they are pretty snug, a good cross hatch hone and new rings will fix you up

[wakkjobb]

Here's hoping it'll be that simple... 

[4x4yota]

ok that makes sense thanks...let me know how it goes...and I still got thar weber if your interested

[81_yota]

i cant wait to see this thing in action

[wakkjobb]

Me neither; I'm finally dropping the engine junk at the machine shop tomorrow... new jobs kinda suck sometimes as far as making progress on the truck. I haven't checked the pistons without the rings but since it was rebuilt I'm going to pray they're okay and can be reused. Remember, I am going super-low budget here otherwise I'd get new pistons without hesitation. The crank worries me a little, gonna have to get the #4 journal resized since the bearing spun... bad and noisy.

Aside from that I'm expecting:
clean everything
hone block
polish crank/#4 journal work
resize #4 rod
all new bearings/rings etc
1-2mm bigger valve seats for 22R valves in 20R head
valve guides?
machine head--minimum needed to be flat
install rotating assembly
take it back home and install everything else, assemble head
toss in truck (new clutch) and call it good
maybe new exhaust... quieter

We'll see... I'd like to pick up some 39.5 Iroks locally ($1250 for 5, almost new, 17" wheel though) but oughta get the dng truck MOVING before I get it new shoes.

>>Dan

[79coyotefrg]

Me neither; I'm finally dropping the engine junk at the machine shop tomorrow... new jobs kinda suck sometimes as far as making progress on the truck. I haven't checked the pistons without the rings but since it was rebuilt I'm going to pray they're okay and can be reused. Remember, I am going super-low budget here otherwise I'd get new pistons without hesitation. The crank worries me a little, gonna have to get the #4 journal resized since the bearing spun... bad and noisy.

Aside from that I'm expecting:
clean everything
hone block
polish crank/#4 journal work
resize #4 rod   you need to have them all done not just one.
all new bearings/rings etc
1-2mm bigger valve seats for 22R valves in 20R head
valve guides?  i wouldnt worry about that they rarely are worn bad enough to be a problem
machine head--minimum needed to be flat
install rotating assembly
take it back home and install everything else, assemble head
toss in truck (new clutch) and call it good
maybe new exhaust... quieter

We'll see... I'd like to pick up some 39.5 Iroks locally ($1250 for 5, almost new, 17" wheel though) but oughta get the dng truck MOVING before I get it new shoes.

>>Dan

[wakkjobb]

Dropped it off today, looks like I'm sticking with stock 20R valves since it'll be $500+ to cut the 20R head for 22R valves with new seats and all that. The bigger valves would be dang close to the perimiter of the combustion chamber too; kinda sketchy. The bores have a nice lip on them and they're bell-shaped so they need to be bored... which means new pistons. The crank is being checked to make sure it's not bent, a new crank kit is like $200... yay.
So here's the new plan:
clean everything
bore block
deck block
pray crank is okay 
re-size rods
all new rings/bearings etc
clean head
deck least amount needed
20R valves, re-use old ones if possible
then install rotating assembly and so on.
I love how plans never stay the same...

>>Dan

[wakkjobb]

Did some stuff last weekend:

Ran main wiring harness inside fenders (both sides)


REALLY took out interior


Heater core looks prety new-ish so it'll stay:


This weekend will see interior assembly among other things (I hope0.
Waiting to hear from machine shop about block/head/stuff; it oughta be clean by now. Might have a line on an Offy intake, we'll see.

>>Dan