Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 227254 times)

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1890 on: May 25, 2019, 08:15:16 PM »
UPDATE:  MAY 25, 2019

HEAD GASKETS

I examined the DNJ failed head gasket and the new Fel Pro and Toyota OE.

Like I discovered when I did my version of examining the transmission input shaft seals, WOW… I am shocked at what is being manufactured and how I can just examine it and see why the part failed, and how it is inferior to other manufacturer’s same replacement part.

The head gasket contained in the engnbldr rebuild kit, like the rocker cover gasket kit, is probably a Chinese version of a copy… a questionable quality and design.  In my opinion, the head gasket visually appears to be inferior in design to Toyota and Fel Pro.  The DNJ gasket basically delaminated and allowed coolant to get into the #3 cylinder.  There is a separate ring that sits on top of the slipper plate and does not seal the very edge of the cylinder fire ring.  It can delaminate and allow combustion gases and coolant to leak into layers of the gasket and eventually into the combustion chamber.

On the Toyota and the Fel Pro, there is no separate ring.  The metal slipper plate is sealed with a 2-cylinder metal piece the wraps completely around cylinder 1 & 2, and 3 & 4 ring edge.  It cannot delaminate.

The Toyota gasket is about .052” thick. (new)
The FelPro gaskest is about .062” thick. (new)
The DNJ gasket is about. 066” thick (used)

I prefer the Toyota gasket because it is thinner and should not compress as much.  I assume thicker gaskets will have some affect on compression ratio.  It also has a sealer bead for the timing cover to bottom of head seal.

That is my unscientific evaluation.

My lesson learned.  Admittedly too late in my life!  When it comes to very important and more critical gaskets or seals (like the input shaft seal, rear crankshaft seal, head gasket, I will not compromise and buy a non-Toyota gasket or seal.  For me it’s absolutely not worth saving $10 or $50, have a failure and then have to rebuild something or take the time, sweat, and money to have to do a complete R&R for a premature failure.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

« Last Edit: May 26, 2019, 05:08:29 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1891 on: May 26, 2019, 04:58:54 AM »
If you are interested, here are two quotes from two "experts" on head gaskets, specifically discussing gaskets for bi-metal engines (alloy head on cast iron block) and the slipper plate design.  The two quotes have been clipped from two different public internet forums and are about 11 years apart. 

There a many discussions and comments on head gasket design, likes and dislikes, just like any other topic in the automotive realm.

https://imgur.com/JAAAQ3T  - a clip from of public internet forum - EB Ted from engnbldr.

https://imgur.com/m2VW02D  - a clip from a public internet forum -  Fel Pro Team member.

Any comments?

Gnarls.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

emsvitil

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1892 on: May 26, 2019, 05:19:38 AM »
How tight did you torque down your head?



 :qtip:


Ed
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31x10.50R15

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1893 on: May 26, 2019, 06:01:27 AM »
How tight did you torque down your head?



 :qtip:




Good question.  Tod at engnbldr recommended 63 lbs.  That's what I torqued to.  As you know, the Toy spec is 58 lbs.

Jim at 22RE Performance recommended 80 lbs on the OE gasket and ARP stud kit.

Gnarls.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1894 on: Jun 02, 2019, 05:56:33 AM »
UPDATE:  June 2, 2019

SHORT VERSION:
•   Had binding issues with ARP Studs.
•   Installed ARP Studs.
•   Mounted head with Toyota head gasket
•   Torqued head down to 75 lbs.
•   Ready to put engine back together.

LONG VERSION:

I had trouble with several of the ARP studs – binding before fully seating in the block.

The ARP studs have rolled threads.  The threads on the bolts are also rolled.

After chasing every thread in the block, on the studs, on the old head bolts, I still had studs binding in the block before seating at the bottom.

I cleaned every hole in the block with carb and brake cleaner and blew them out with compressed air.  I chased every block thread hold, then a cleaned and blew them out again… probably 3 to 4 times each.

The chaser spun into the threads in the block with zero resistance after several insertions and cleaning with brake cleaner and hit with compressed air.  The chaser on 4 of the 10 studs had some resistance by hand and 2 required a socket on the thread chaser nut.  The stud nuts spun on the studs with zero resistance.

I cleaned all the threads on the bolts and they spun into the block with no problem.

I could NOT figure out why the studs were binding up inside the block?

I tried the studs in different holes in the block and switching the studs.  I was able to get 8 of the studs screwed into the block with zero to slight resistance.  Most went in by hand.  Two of them bound up about 1/4” from seating.  I had to use a short allen wrench and they twisted in with way more resistance than they should have.

At one point I decided to just use the old bolts – only 26,000 miles on them.

After sleeping on it, I ended up leaving the studs in and torqued down the head to 75 lbs.  Jim at 22REP recommended 80 lbs, but my torque wrench may not be perfectly calibrated, so I stopped at 75 lbs.  75 lbs on that head feels very high.  Considering the factory torque spec is 58 lbs, it’s interesting that ARP recommends 90, 22REP recommends 80 for ARP studs, and Tod at engnbldr recommended 63 lbs for new bolts.  The torque spec on a Chevy 350 cast head is 65 lbs.

So far I’m not impressed the ARP Stud Kit.  One concern I have is if and when I want to remove the head, the studs will have to be removed.  I cannot get the head off with the studs in.  Removing those ARP studs after mileage on the engine may be a serious problem.  Just based upon removing the head bolts on heads in the past, I don’t believe the allen socket and an allen wrench on the top of the studs will be strong enough to handle the amount torque it will most likely will take to break the studs loose.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1895 on: Jun 02, 2019, 06:19:47 AM »
Did you have or test for binding on the original rebuild?

I'm thinking that if you had binding, you really didn't have enough torque on some of the bolts originally, and that would cause head gasket problems.....

Double nutting the studs to get them out may be the better way later...………….

Do you think the binding is really trapped air or oil?
Ed
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22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1896 on: Jun 02, 2019, 07:00:05 AM »
hey Gnarly
another thing i do for these types of situations is use Qtips to clean the threads. spray your cleaner then spin the qtips around and repeat with new qtips until clean.
might be worth a shot? 
CB

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1897 on: Jun 02, 2019, 07:20:48 AM »
hey Gnarly
another thing i do for these types of situations is use Qtips to clean the threads. spray your cleaner then spin the qtips around and repeat with new qtips until clean.
might be worth a shot? 
CB


Hey CB,

I have never used a Q-tip to clean threads.  Like I said, I use solvent - carb cleaner, brake cleaner, paint thinner, lacquer thinner, acetone, or MEK.  I brush the threads with a wire brush, apply some solvent, then blow them off with compressed air, then run the chaser over the threads, clean with solvent again, and blow them off with compressed air.  Trust me... those threads were practically sterile!!

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Jun 02, 2019, 02:43:01 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1898 on: Jun 02, 2019, 07:24:40 AM »
Hey e...

When I did the first rebuild, I cleaned the holes in the block and the threads on the new bolts really well.  I tested them by spinning them into the block by hand - no problems, no binding.  I believe the failed head gasket was just Chinese junk.

Trapped air... I'd be very surprised if those studs could trap air, but if that were true, then after seating the stud at the bottom of the hole, the air would be compressed out, right?  So then I should be able spin the stud out with little to no resistance, BUT they came out as hard as I torqued them in.

I did suspect that the ARP lubricant was an issue, so I cleaned it off and just sprayed the threads on the stud with silicone spray. Still got bind.


Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Jun 02, 2019, 07:34:44 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Snowtoy

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1899 on: Jun 02, 2019, 01:54:08 PM »
So far I’m not impressed the ARP Stud Kit.  One concern I have is if and when I want to remove the head, the studs will have to be removed.  I cannot get the head off with the studs in..............

If it is similar to the 3.0, if/when you remove the head, removing the rear two studs should give you the ability to remove the head without needing to remove the other studs.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

EASYRYDERDANGER

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1900 on: Jun 02, 2019, 02:26:29 PM »
Ive had zero issues with arp studs, installing and removing.  Multiple heads removals too...  torque to there spec.   Remember the torque load is on the stud...

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1901 on: Jun 02, 2019, 03:00:04 PM »
Ive had zero issues with arp studs, installing and removing.  Multiple heads removals too...  torque to there spec.   Remember the torque load is on the stud...

Well... that's good to know!

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1902 on: Jun 02, 2019, 03:10:36 PM »
Well... I certainly tried to get the head over the top of the studs with the back two removed... still could not see how it would work.  The back of the head hits the firewall.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1903 on: Jun 02, 2019, 03:40:54 PM »
They have the allen in the end.   Cross thread is better than locktite...

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1904 on: Jun 02, 2019, 05:44:25 PM »
They have the allen in the end.   Cross thread is better than locktite...

Yes E... I know the studs have an allen socket in one end of the stud.

Yeah... I think I have an old tube of Cross Thread somewhere in my garage.  :inthedark:

And, as I remember it DID work better than Loctite.  :best:

Gnarls.  :muscles:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1905 on: Jun 02, 2019, 09:31:24 PM »
Jesse has a body lift. I think that might be helping him with installing the head in the vehicle.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
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EASYRYDERDANGER

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1906 on: Jun 09, 2019, 06:49:48 PM »
I put them in after

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1907 on: Feb 02, 2020, 10:14:15 AM »
Ya, it's me. Right on time.


Hey Benjamin!!

Is that you from a blast from the past Off-Road.com??

Gnarls.




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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1908 on: Feb 02, 2020, 10:59:38 AM »
Ya, it's me. Right on time.




OMG!!  That was a loooooonggg time ago!!  Good times on that site!!

I still have your GM Ignitor sheet!!

How are you doing?

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1909 on: Feb 02, 2020, 02:34:53 PM »
OMG!!  That was a loooooonggg time ago!!  Good times on that site!!

I still have your GM Ignitor sheet!!

How are you doing?

I'm good. Had Heart failure in march of 18, got a fancy pump installed(LVAD). Cant really work on my rigs anymore, so I turned to the NonSAS dark side and bought a 2020 Tacoma.
Still have my 88 Fj62, but will most likely sell it soon.
Moved to Nevada, and I miss Marlin's roundUps.

Hope all is good with you too!

Gnarls.



Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1910 on: Feb 03, 2020, 03:43:37 AM »
Hey Benjamin,

Very happy to read you are a survivor!  :beerchug:

Gnarls.  :gap:
« Last Edit: Feb 09, 2020, 03:33:50 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1911 on: Feb 15, 2020, 06:24:10 PM »
That separate ring it exactly what peeled off on my DNJ head gasket.
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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1912 on: Feb 16, 2020, 03:56:37 AM »
That separate ring it exactly what peeled off on my DNJ head gasket.

Hi H,

Knowing your level of experience with these engines, your premature head gasket failure confirms my assumptions on the head gasket.

Before I started my rebuild project, I spoke to Todd at engnbldr at length. I ask about the infamous 22R/RE head gasket failures. He said most of the failures they see is not the head gasket, but other factors.  Of course at this point, I’d bet that there are a significant number of head gasket failures caused by poor quality gaskets. He said the head gasket in the kit I was ordering is the same head gasket spec’d for the 22R Turbo engine.  I went with engnbldr’s reputation in the early Toyota community that was well-known for quality products at very competitive prices, and extraordinary customer service.

Knowing that heads and head gasket failures in the 2X engines is a major historical and well documented failure issue, I’m curious how they ended up selling a head gasket that clearly was inferior in design and quality?  They are out of business and Ted and Todd probably aren’t going to comment publicly on the subject, so I only have my speculation on the answer.  The products contained in the rebuild kit were inferior in my opinion.  The suspected piston ring failure or inability to properly seat during break-in was backed up by Jim at 22RE Performance.  He said he has seen failures caused by improper ring tension against the cylinder walls and inferior metal composition.  The head gasket and rocker cover gasket & grommets failed way too early. The oil pump is leaking, so I assume it is junk.  According to my local head shop, the DNJ head from engnbldr was not properly set up. After removing the engnbldr head, they inspected it.  The valve springs were distorted, and every exhaust valve was leaking. They speculated it was valve seats or valve face angles. I would guess that the DNJ head came from DNJ complete to engnbldr, and therefore not quality inspected by engnbldr before shipping.  I would guess the head assembly was done by the supplier to DNJ and quality control and QA testing was insufficient.

I don’t know if the Crawler 261C cam had anything to do with the head/valve failure. I also do not know if the machine work on the block has anything to do with the engine failure.  And, of course, I may be responsible for improper assembly or other factors during the rebuild, like break-in.

I spoke to Bill Gentle at Redline Engine Builders, who took over engnbldr’s business, right after my engine failure.  It appears he is selling the DNJ rebuild kit. I’m curious what his comments would be about DNJ’s head gasket.

I’m not posting my comments to indict anyone, but merely to provide some real-world feed back on my experiences.  I hope it helps anyone who is considering buying rebuild parts.

Here's the link if anyone is interested:  https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100729.0;message=1163383

Gnarls.

« Last Edit: Feb 16, 2020, 04:14:34 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

gnob

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1913 on: Feb 16, 2020, 08:59:05 AM »
Why anyone's using anything other than an oem for stock builds continues to puzzle me.
hold this. . .

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1914 on: Feb 17, 2020, 03:29:14 AM »
Why anyone's using anything other than an oem for stock builds continues to puzzle me.

Hey gnob,

To quote one of your 82 pages of glib and sarcastic posts on the Pirate forum….

“Its really a "to each their own" thing.”

I explained the “why”, or are your “’eyes aren’t what they used to be”.

I assume your comment is referring to head gaskets.

What puzzles me is why Cometic, Fel-Pro, Mahle, Victor Reinz, and Mr. Gasket are still in business.  :dunno:

Gnarls.  :gap:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1915 on: Feb 17, 2020, 09:11:14 AM »
Because people are cheap.
hold this. . .

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1916 on: Feb 17, 2020, 07:44:59 PM »
Because people are cheap.

Actually, that statement is pure male bovine feces! 

So I will choose a word with a slightly less negative connotation and implied slanderous description of "people" who choose to buy something other than an OEM head gasket.

Let's use the word frugal. 

You can pick a word:  synonyms:
thrifty · sparing · economical · saving · careful · cautious · prudent · provident · unwasteful · sensible · canny · abstemious · abstinent · austere · self-denying · ascetic ·
Some of the very smartest, most generous, highly skilled, and most successful people I know often display a tad of frugality.

Frugality is the quality of being frugal, sparing, thrifty, prudent or economical in the consumption of consumable resources such as food, time or money, and avoiding waste, lavishness or extravagance.

Interestingly, there are studies in human nature and current sociology that shows humans intuitively act the opposite of a “cheap” nature.

People do not have a natural tendency to be frugal, but actually are more spendy and prefer to enjoy the acquisition of nice things and indulging in the finer things in life.

So people are NOT cheap.

However, some people are ignorant of the facts and truth.

Gnarls.



1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

blackdiamond

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1917 on: Feb 23, 2020, 10:20:50 AM »
Actually, that statement is pure male bovine feces! 

So I will choose a word with a slightly less negative connotation and implied slanderous description of "people" who choose to buy something other than an OEM head gasket.

Let's use the word frugal. 

You can pick a word:  synonyms:
thrifty · sparing · economical · saving · careful · cautious · prudent · provident · unwasteful · sensible · canny · abstemious · abstinent · austere · self-denying · ascetic ·
Some of the very smartest, most generous, highly skilled, and most successful people I know often display a tad of frugality.

Frugality is the quality of being frugal, sparing, thrifty, prudent or economical in the consumption of consumable resources such as food, time or money, and avoiding waste, lavishness or extravagance.

Interestingly, there are studies in human nature and current sociology that shows humans intuitively act the opposite of a “cheap” nature.

People do not have a natural tendency to be frugal, but actually are more spendy and prefer to enjoy the acquisition of nice things and indulging in the finer things in life.

So people are NOT cheap.

However, some people are ignorant of the facts and truth.

Gnarls.





Your assignment: Since you took exception to the word "cheap" with the intended meaning that people would rather risk an inferior part than pay the cost of OEM when the cost (e.g. time, labor, money) of failure is many times the difference in the cost between the aftermarket and OEM parts, your assignment is to find a softer word for "ignorant" as that most certainly has a negative connotation. 
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1918 on: Feb 24, 2020, 03:18:09 AM »
Your assignment: Since you took exception to the word "cheap" with the intended meaning that people would rather risk an inferior part than pay the cost of OEM when the cost (e.g. time, labor, money) of failure is many times the difference in the cost between the aftermarket and OEM parts, your assignment is to find a softer word for "ignorant" as that most certainly has a negative connotation. 

OMG!!  Look what crawled out of the wood pile!

BD…. Where have you been?  I have missed your posts.

The level of ignorance of the facts and truth is everywhere.  (i.e - Why anyone would vote for a socialist puzzles me.)

In textual communications, there are elements missing.  Tone and intent are sometimes difficult to convey.  Then there is conceptual semantics.

The 4 basic elements of communication are speaking, listening, body language, and writing.  Since we don’t hear or see the person posting, we rely on “writing”.   And, as we all know there are some less than adequate writers out there.

Do you like this adjective?  nescience – the mental state of mind of the unenlightened.

I understand gnob’s point of view.  I agree that compromising the quality of a head gasket on a 2X rebuild is risky.  If I were to pick one part in a top-end rebuild I’d say the head gasket is a very critical part – and for historical reasons.

FACT:  There are XX times more posts on failed rebuilds than successful rebuilds. Why?

So…. How many of you have always bought Snap-on tools?

How many of you have never walked into a Harbor Freight store?

There are hundreds of people killed every year due to tire failure related crashes.  How many of you have always purchased the best quality tire for your vehicle?  No Chinese made tires!??

Generally, we all do what we can with what we have.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

:)bestgen4runner

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #1919 on: Feb 29, 2020, 05:03:52 PM »
The Bitterness of Poor Quality remains Long after the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten.  :twocents:

https://www.elephantjournal.com/2013/04/the-bitterness-of-poor-quality-remains-long-after-the-sweetness-of-low-price-is-forgotten/
Good points made by someone far smarter than I. Take a second and read it.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

 
 
 
 
 

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