Topic: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.

[Cheesemaker]

You want it fairly smooth. 


Best thing to do, is find an old fender.  And do a section and see what you are willing to live with. 

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

I got a question. If i found a r150f tranny from a 3.0 . Would my tcase or cross member keep the same position?

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[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Ohh.. well that buddy of mine is giving me the 350 weather i put it in or not. So its mine. No matter what. And even with a free motor. Its still going to cost me close to $3000. With getting a w56 tranny. A matching forward shifting t case. Body lift. Suspension lift. Body lift. Wiring harness. New carb. Etc. Blah blah blah... so ya. Thats out'a the picture. 

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[4xChinook4 [OP]]

So what do you guys think 22r with 5.29's? Save and wait for 3rz? Or Look for a deisel, with my new discovery of 5000 lb weight to the pavement.?

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[Zs Confederate Toy]

Diesel swap that sucker!

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Diesel swap that sucker!

recommendations?  The 2L motors dont seem worth the work.

Recommendations

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[helipilot77]

  definately don't waste your time with the 2L. That would be a huge step back. For your weight I wouldn't even recommend a 2L-t. The only Toyota diesels worth considering are 1KZ-te or the 1HD-t. 1HD-t would be soooo bad a$$ but would be long since it's a straight 6. The best would be a 1KZ-t which is the mechanically injected version of what I have. I have been wanting to convert mine to mechanical injection using the Mitsubishi 4M-40 zexel pump. The mechanically injected version was very rare and was only offered during the first two years I believe. I have heard that it used the same pump as the 2L-t though??

[Zs Confederate Toy]

recommendations?  The 2L motors dont seem worth the work.

Recommendations

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My brother swapped a 1.9 TDI into his 86. He gets 35-40 mpg with 35s and 4.10 gears. Plenty of power. My other brother is in the process of swapping in a Merc OM617 into his 80. Those are the two engines I'd go with. Unless you are able to source a 1KZ or 1HD like helipilot said.

[helipilot77]

I have heard good things about the TDI motor.

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

I don't know how realistic this is. But I'm looking for a swap that does not require a body lift. Simple because I don't want this thing sitting higher over its center of gravity than it already is. The om617 is out due to this. It's a tight fit anyway. Or so I read.


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[4xChinook4 [OP]]

The one .9 TDI does not seem to have the guts to move my 5000 pounds significantly better than my 22 r. And I have yet to see a 1KZ diesel sold commonly here in America. At least as common as a gaser...


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[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Great suggestions though guys.


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[jimbo74]

toss a 350 in it

[kneedownnate]

Even-fire Buick 231 v6.  Good in between mix of power, torque, size and weight, not to mention a big enough aftermarket.  There are also ways to put an r150 behind it without adapters, leaving you only having to worry about t-case adapters if you wanted lower gears.

[H8PVMNT]

Proper gearing won't hurt no matter what you end up doing for an engine.  I'm nearly 5,000 lbs fully loaded with the family, food and gear in my 4runner.  With a tight 22r and 5.29s I can get it done.  My wife is pulling a car hauler loaded with hay with it today.

You have to wind that thing out though, you will never, ever get it at 2,500 rpm.

A swap may be a good option for you, but either way good gearing will help weather you run a 22r or a 350.

You might consider running a steam engine...  MASSIVE low end torque.

[jimbo74]

WHAT ABOUT THE GM 4.3L?

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Great suggestions guys! Super appreciated!

And 2500 rpms is where i notice my economy at the best. Not to dog other experiences of others at 3000 & 3500 rpm. Just where i notice.
But yes Mr. Oak. I can live with my power on "the flats" . But living in CO. Even the highway hillz can dog me enough for a semi to cruise past me. No thanks. So you pretty much nailed it on the head.

And a 350 is too much. Not that i cant handle it or i wouldnt know how to. I totally do, but at ~$3000 for all the changes. And more top heavy.....no thanks. And still maybe 10mpg. ....

I like the idea of the buick.. i'll look into that. Favorable years? And would this require a body lift like the 350?

And i know what you all said. But i was entertaining it again. A 3.0.... I KNOW, I KNOW!! but i was doing some research. Cuz so many people are on either side of the fence. And i see and know plenty of 3.0's with 200,000+ mi. With out a single hick-up. ?? And then i found this.: it wasn't a design flaw if toyota. But rather a vendor flaw. Of the HG's. And toyota corrected this by 89' or for the 2nd runners. And these are ones i see with 200,00+ mi. On em'. 

so if a friend of mine has 2nd from a roll over accident.  With 123,000 mi. In great running condition...and he'll sell me the whole truck for $925. ??


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[helipilot77]

I hear what your saying but all the 3.0's I've ever driven were pretty gutless. I don't think it would be the answer your looking for. The most important factors for your replacement motor will be low RPM torque values and reliability. I think you should strongly consider the VW diesel or the 4.3

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

I hear what your saying but all the 3.0's I've ever driven were pretty gutless. I don't think it would be the answer your looking for. The most important factors for your replacement motor will be low RPM torque values and reliability. I think you should strongly consider the VW diesel or the 4.3

ok
well thanks guys. I will.

In other news got my quarter panel. And hood primed. Much easy than anticipated

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[79coyotefrg]

I have told you repeatedly that these motors are never going to give you any power at all at 2500.  get out of 5th gear and get that motor up to 3000-3500 or just stay creeping along on the shoulder.  its not the engine thats holding you back its you.  I know thats not what you want to hear but thats it.
you can see that even a LC stroker at 2500 rpm is putting out maybe 50hp

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

I do. But when i do. I will also watch my gas gauge drop by the minute. (Maybe a little exaggerated) but you get the point.

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[H8PVMNT]

Must be your special aerodynamic challenge.  I would guess that big back end just takes a lot to drag through the air after a certain speed. 

I could get 22 mpg from my 1980 20r cruising on the freeway at 72-75 mph in 4th gear with 31s.  My to tall 22r 4Runner with 35s will still break 17 mpg cruising along at 3,250-3,500 rpm.

I guess you gotta be the one decide when to pour on the coals and when to lug along for mileage.  One time my wife lugged down the coast highway in 5th gear at 45-55 mph and got 28 mpg in our 22re.  I can't go that slow around here and our changes in elevation are too great to drive like that.  Every once in a while I get a tail wind though .

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Ya i know.  Thats pretty much it. ... but ive been looking at the 4.3 swap.. thats sounding like a much wiser and simpler investment. And i may be able to do this swap for cheaper than that 3.0 runner for $925..

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[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Still searching. But is a body lift required for a first gen yota swap?

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[H8PVMNT]

I had a buick 215 V8 on a stock 4 speed with no adapter once. Not sure how the guy did it but it was a near bolt on other than the clutch from what he said.  Sold the truck years ago and it got parted out.

That engine fit just fine with no body lift.

[Cheesemaker]

Most of my driving is around the 2250 to 2500 rpm range.  I have been playing around in the 3000+ rpm range the last couple days.  And the motor runs good and solid at 3000+, but the down side is the gas consumption.  But just going back and forth to town and such, I really don't see the need to be pegged out all the time.  Plus for some reason, my truck hits the wall at 4000 rpms.  Its more than likely has to do with the older style exhaust manifold I am running.  I am on the lookout for the newer style, but most used ones I find are garbage.  I have a header, but its for the newer style 22RE with the O2 sensor downstream.   

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Most of my driving is around the 2250 to 2500 rpm range.  I have been playing around in the 3000+ rpm range the last couple days.  And the motor runs good and solid at 3000+, but the down side is the gas consumption.  But just going back and forth to town and such, I really don't see the need to be pegged out all the time.  Plus for some reason, my truck hits the wall at 4000 rpms.  Its more than likely has to do with the older style exhaust manifold I am running.  I am on the lookout for the newer style, but most used ones I find are garbage.  I have a header, but its for the newer style 22RE with the O2 sensor downstream.   

ya i get ya. Same with me. For gas consumtion.

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[4xChinook4 [OP]]

But living in a hilly area. I cant creep every where.

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[Jason E.]

Let me throw my $0.02 in here. Your 22r can perform but why spend the crazy cost of LCE parts when its never going to be over a 100hp reliable engine. There reliable stock. Thats it. If you want the lower end balls torque you'll need with the camper go with a 4.3L Chevy V6 engine, Or spend the money on a 3.4L Toyota V6. Chevy is cheaper and in my opinion way easier to work one. Less wires. And a HUGE performance back ground from any local Engine Parts Company. Ive watched a bunch of 4.3L Swaps get built at my fathers machine shop and safe to say, if you buy a donor truck, and rebuild the engine. Its still half the cost of any other swap would be. Good luck Brotha and if you need anything hit me up.

By the way, even though were talkin about your Rig, Post some pictures. I love seeing that truck! 

[4xChinook4 [OP]]

Let me throw my $0.02 in here. Your 22r can perform but why spend the crazy cost of LCE parts when its never going to be over a 100hp reliable engine. There reliable stock. Thats it. If you want the lower end balls torque you'll need with the camper go with a 4.3L Chevy V6 engine, Or spend the money on a 3.4L Toyota V6. Chevy is cheaper and in my opinion way easier to work one. Less wires. And a HUGE performance back ground from any local Engine Parts Company. Ive watched a bunch of 4.3L Swaps get built at my fathers machine shop and safe to say, if you buy a donor truck, and rebuild the engine. Its still half the cost of any other swap would be. Good luck Brotha and if you need anything hit me up.

By the way, even though were talkin about your Rig, Post some pictures. I love seeing that truck! 

Right bro. But sorry maybe im not looking in the right spots. But is a body lift needed for a 4.3?

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