Topic: Front axle service write-up

[helipilot77]

This Thread is Featured in our Tech from our Forum Members section!


This thread was made prior to the Photobucket debacle. I am Slowly making my way through these photos to fix them.

When I originally did the solid axle swap on my 87 4runner I had not had the time to really do it right and service the knuckles the way I should have. Never the less it has served my unfailingly regardless of the abuse I have given it. But now that it has been in daily driver duty for 8 years, I figured it was time I show a little appreciation to the front axle. So I ordered my parts from Marlin, and less than a week latter they had made their way up the pacific coast to my front door in Seattle. I thought that it would be a good idea to do a full write-up as I went along so I started taking pictures. I will also include some excerpts from the Factory Service Manual regarding some diagrams and specs. I also decided to upgrade to:
- V6 Front third member
- 25mm trunion bearings
- V6 brake calipers
- Dual diaphragm FJ-80 brake booster and master cylinder

Below is a photo of all the parts from Marlin along with some other materials I suggest having available before starting this project.

An exploded view of all the hub components is shown below.

I am not going to walk through the tear down because it is pretty straightforward. The only things I will say is:
- when trying to remove cone washers use a brass punch or drift on top of the stud and smack it convincingly with a hammer.
-keep track of the trunion bearing shims and remember which ones go where. I write on mine with a sharpie. I should probably recalculate them but I don't have $300 to spend on the Factory Sevice Tool. If you do have the extra cash, Marlin sells it. Please buy it so that I can borrow it from you.

I recommend taking the time to clean everything nicely. I completely disassembled my unbeatable factory AISIN hubs, cleaned, painted, greased, and then reassembled them.

Below is shown how it should look when the axle is all the way stripped down.

If you are not changing your third member then you can skip the next few steps.
The third member will not come out of the housing until the axles have been slid out. Once you have done that, remove the 4x14mm bolts and nuts on the driveshaft along with the
10x12mm nuts that hold the third member into the housing. Then it can be removed. Careful it's heavy!

Clean the old gasket material off of the flange, put a consistent 1/8" inch Bead of ultra grey silicone around the entire flange making sure to go around the stud holes. Then install the third member and tighten the 10x12mm nuts on the third member then install and tighten the 4x14mm bolts and nuts on the drive shaft.
 
I used marlins Eco seals before and they worked great so I am using them on this install as well. They have an extra sealing lip to keep the grease separated from the oil. I used a cats paw to remove the old seal. Just be careful not to mark up the surface that the oil seal mates to.

When I installed my oil seals I used a 24mm socket flipped around on an extension and drove it in with a ball pean hammer. It worked great!
Use some 75/90 gear oil to lubricate the oil seals. Just wet your finger with some oil then wipe the inside rubber circumference with oil. This will keep your seals from wearing out right away.

Since I already had Marlin high steer arms, I bought the conversion kit to modify my existing steering arms to  25mm. I don't own a hydraulic press so I had to figure out a way to do this procedure without one. To remove the existing "factory sized" bearing pins I simply beat them out with a hammer and a steel rod. I wasn't going to use them again so I didn't care if the got damaged. To install the new 25mm pins I bought a brass hammer at harbor freight. I would have Prefered a brass drift but they didn't have one. I set the pin in place then pressed it in as much as I could in the vice. This insured that it got started straight. Then I removed it from the vice and set it on a short 2"x4" then set the brass drift on the pin holding it flat with one hand. In the other hand I started rapping on the brass drift with a small 4# sledge. The pin was slowly convinced into its socket.

You must be careful when using this method. If to much impact is applied to the pin, it will mushroom ever so slightly to the point where the trunion bearing will no longer fit over it.

Shown below is a comparison photo of the shinny new 25mm pin next to the old factory sized pin.

Next its's time to grease all the bearings. I purchased a new KOYO wheel bearing set from marlin so I greased these at the same time as the trunion bearings.

 Even if you decide to reuse your old wheel bearing you should repack them with grease.
The technique I use to pack bearings is as follows:
- take a walnut sized dab of grease and place it in the palm of your hand.

- in the other hand take the bearing and with the larger sized diameter into your palm start scrapping the grease in your palm into the carriage of the bearing.

- when small pea sized grease balls start to appears on the top of the bearings rotate the bearing and repeat until the entire circumference is loaded with grease.

Because the new marlin kit comes with a low profile lower trunion cap that uses bolts, I had to remove the original Toyota studs from the bottom of the knuckle. To do this thread two nuts onto a stud and tighten them against each other. Then with a wrench turn the nut on the opposite side of the direction you want the stud to move. In this case I wanted to remove the stud, so I turned the nut closest to knuckle. This continues to tighten the two nuts together and ensures that they don't slip.

To be continued...

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Before the knuckle is installed its seal set must first be installed.

In order to install both of the trunion bearings, they must be installed before the knuckle is installed. the top can simply be set into its race. the bottom one must be held in place while installing the knuckle. It honestly isn't too difficult just use the knuckle itself to hold the bearing in place while slipping it over the ball.

Then the Lower shim and cap can be installed. The Marlin kit comes with some great new hardware. The serrated conical washers are something I have never used before but they look awesome.

Install the new bolts with the washer, coating the threads with lock-tite. while you tighten the bolts with a 17mm socket the pin on the lower bearing cap will be drawn into the bearing. you may have to guide it to make sure it doesn't get jammed off to the side. Torque these lower knuckle cap bolts to 71 ft.lbs.

Line up the tie rod with the tapered hole then install the castle nut. Torque the castle nut to 67 ft.lbs. with a 17mm socket ensuring that the hole in the stude aligns with the slots in the castle nut, then install the cotter pin through the hole in the castle nut and into the bolt. Bend the cotter pin so it won't come out. Then do the same with the drag link.

Now install the upper steering arm shim followed by the Steering arm. Insert the cone washer followed by the flat washers and nuts onto the studs. Just as with the lower cap give the assembly guidance as you tighten the nuts with a 17mm socket, to ensure that the bearings line up with the pins. then also torque the nuts to 71 ft.lbs.

Hold the back side knuckle seals into place then install one of the metal retainers with four of the eight 12mm bolts. Then install the other retainer along with its four bolts.

Before installing the axle shafts pack the birfield full of a high quality grease. then they are ready to go back in.

When installing axle shafts make sure the flat spots on the birfield bell are at top and bottom orientation. In order to slide it in you will have to move it around in order to line it up inside the differential side gears. You also may have to turn the driveshaft in order to line up the splines. It can be helpful to have a friend around for this step, but can certainly be accomplished solo.

pack more grease around the birfield inside the knuckle. The Factory Service Manual recommends packing the knuckle 3/4 full.

Now install the spindle gasket with the three flat sides so that the bolt holes line up with the holes on the front of the knuckle. I have experienced problems with RTV coated gaskets not sealing properly so I am using an aviation gasket adhesive.

Install the spindle over the gasket (DO NOT INSTALL THE BOLTS YET).

Install the other gasket with the small gap cut out on the bottom.

Then install the brake backing plate (or backing plate eliminator if you have them). In order to install the backing plate rotate it so that the caliper cut-out is in the top position, then slide it over the spindle. Once it is all the way against the spindle rotate it so that the caliper cut-out is facing the rear of the vehicle, then the bolt holes should line up.

Install the metal ring with the rubber dust seal. Then install the eight spindle bolts with a 14mm socket and torque them to 38 ft.lbs.

If you are replacing you wheel bearings, drive the old bearing races out of the inside of the hub with a steel drift.

Note: If the new bearing races are placed in the freezer for a few hours the cold will cause them to shrink in size slightly making them easier to install.

Drive the new bearing races in evenly with either a huge socket (what I used) or a brass drift. Just make sure the bearing surface doesn't get scratched or nicked.

Drop the larger of the two wheel bearings into the back side of the hub/rotor assembly.

Place the oil seal on the back of the hub.

Then using a wooden block, evenly drive the seal into place with a hammer. Then apply a thin coat of grease to the seal surface.

The Factory Service Manual says to coat the inside of the hub with grease.

Install the hub/Rotor assembly onto the spindle.

Then place the smaller wheel bearing onto the spindle.

Install the wheel bearing washer so that the tab lines into the slot on the spindle threads.

Install the first spindle nut and hand tighten it.

Then using a HUGE 54mm socket tighten the spindle nut to 54 ft.lbs. and rotate the hub right and left two or three times.

Loosen the spindle nut to just hand tight, then using a spring pull scale on one of the lug nuts (fish scale) re-tighten the spindle nut until the pull scale takes between 6.2 and 12.3 pounds to rotate the hub.

Install the lock washer with the tab in groove just as the bearing washer was.

Then install the second spindle nut and torque it to 33 ft.lbs.

Bend the lock tabs over the sides of the spindle nut to lock it in place.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Install the round locking hub gasket then install the locking hub body. Place the six cone washers, flat washers, and nuts on the studs and tighten with a 12mm socket. Torque to 18 ft.lbs.

using a 8x1.25mm bolt threaded into the end of the axle shaft, pull the shaft out slightly so that the groove in the shaft is fully exposed.

Then install the snap ring.

Now the locking hub dial star gasket and locking hub dial can be installed.

The only things left to do are install the calipers, bleed the brake system and install the tires.

If you like this write-up, thank me with turtle points. 

[LittleSteve]

tidy job and well written..
did you steal that hammer of Thor? 
Ive procured the sst off Toyota for doing the set up.... wasnt that expensive.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I have only seen it for sale by Marlin. Over here in the U.S. The dealers don't usually sell any of the SST's. The knuckle alignment tool is almost $400 from marlin and the steering arm service tool is almost $200(that is almost 360 British pounds). For me that is too expensive for an ocational use. Feel free to ship it over so I can use it.

[1985CRAWLER]

this is great! wish something like this was available when i rebuilt my axle for the 1st time years back. i didnt have a service manual either.

good work

[helipilot77 [OP]]

I got my FJ-80 dual diaphragm brake booster installed. I'm not sure if it is upside-down but I installed it with the vacuum inlet at the 7 o'clock position. That is the only way it would bolt in. But it did just bolt right in. With this brake booster, the FJ-80 master cylinder, FJ-60 vented front rotors and the larger V-6 front calipers it is easy to lock up all four tires. First time I touched the brakes, I almost went through the winshield. I had been used to having to put my weight into it to to get it to stop. Now the lightest touch is all it takes.

[johnnyt]

wow thanks alot. i hope mine goes that good when i do mine. i still cant figure out why they aint got a way to just change the oil seals in the back of knuckles. fixing do some prices on stuff from marlin

[GONZO97]

very nice write up. where was this years ago when i was doing my knuckle rebuild for the first time ever!

[helipilot77 [OP]]

very nice write up. where was this years ago when i was doing my knuckle rebuild for the first time ever!

That's what I thought too. So I made one.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Wheel came off the other day while driving at 50 MPH! That was exciting. Make sure to torque the lug nuts on your wheel spacers! Luckily no damage was done. Just jacked it up on the side of the road and re-torqued the wheel spacer.

[GONZO97]

had that same issue when i did mine, could hear a weird thumping noise every wheel turn, figured out my wheel spacer was loose. luckily i figured it out before it came off

[Wisdomination]

Great write up!
This ones getting bookmarked.
Mahalos

[daniresch]

Great write up!!! turtle points well deserved!

[turbo this..]

awsome man wish id found this before doing my front diff haha o well at least it puts my mind at rest knowing what i did was on par

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Marlin member "Webber DCOE" found a home made tool on a pirate article. I'm posting the link here because I'm sure some of you would like to try and make one. I know I will.
Here is the link to the pirate article:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-land-cruiser/151630-knuckle-alignment-tool.html#/forumsite/21027/topics/151630?page=1

Here is a picture of the tool:

[OOPS]

Here is another set-up tool. If you have a lathe, or access to one, should not be that hard to make.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/734345-setting-up-knuckles-without-sst.html

[OOPS]

Couple of things.

1. Why did you not get a high pinion diff since you got the whole thing new?

2. I always bent the tabs over on the first nut so I can torque the second nut without moving the first nut when doing wheel bearings.

3 Do not throw the stock trunion pins or bearings away, you never know when you might need them. Or you run into someone on the trail that might need them.  Keep them in your spares box.

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Couple of things.

1. Why did you not get a high pinion diff since you got the whole thing new?

2. I always bent the tabs over on the first nut so I can torque the second nut without moving the first nut when doing wheel bearings.

3 Do not throw the stock trunion pins or bearings away, you never know when you might need them. Or you run into someone on the trail that might need them.  Keep them in your spares box.

1. I would have loved to have been able to fit a high pinion diff. But the exhaust on my diesel is on the passenger side and having a high pinion front diff would have caused interference with the exhaust on full compression.

2.I do bend the tab over on the first nut, but I wait until I have torqued the lock nut. I have never had the first nut move while torquing the lock nut.

3. That's a good point. Trail spares are good to have. Especially trunion bearings. They do ocasionally blow up on the trail.

[Auggydog]

Great write up.wish I had this info on hand years ago,the quality of write upband photos are magize quality.
I had to tear down my front end this morning,to repair a smashed crush sleeve and wasted pinion seal.
Since I just redid the front end eight months ago,I decided to pull the trunion bearings and pull whole nuckle off,with the axles attached.Worked great on tear down,will let you know how it goes together.

[epantano]

This is a awesome write up! I am in the middle of this right now with the 85 axle Im building for my 87 PU.

My question is can i use the IFS locking hubs with the axle? Im guessing I would still need some parts from the SA hubs but which ones?

Thanks!

[helipilot77 [OP]]

Yes you can use everything except for the splined ring that fits on the axle. IFS and solid axles have different axle spline counts. You can buy just the spline ring from RCV in either 4340 chromemoly or 300M

https://www.rcvperformance.com/replacement-4340-inner-hub-gear-for-solid-axle-toyota-pickup-79-85-4runner-84-85-hubs.html

[epantano]

Yes you can use everything except for the splined ring that fits on the axle. IFS and solid axles have different axle spline counts. You can buy just the spline ring from RCV in either 4340 chromemoly or 300M.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=D2882-SET

Awesome thanks for the advice! Going to order that up tonight.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[ExCabSwap]

So I have a complete hub to hub 1983 axle. I'll be doing a swap onto my 93 front end. People keep telling me to use my ifs stuff so that I don't have to use wheel spacers.

What part of this write-up do I use my ifs stuff?

I'm sure it's been answered before, but I cannot find a write-up on this exact build I'm trying to do.

Thanks!

[Mudder]

So I have a complete hub to hub 1983 axle. I'll be doing a swap onto my 93 front end. People keep telling me to use my ifs stuff so that I don't have to use wheel spacers.

What part of this write-up do I use my ifs stuff?

I'm sure it's been answered before, but I cannot find a write-up on this exact build I'm trying to do.

Thanks!

Umm have you searched google? Here's just one link. But that subject has been beaten to death more times on pirate4x4 the I care to count. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=89208.0

[helipilot77 [OP]]

This write up was for servicing a front axle, not really for doing a solid axle swap.

[Hiluxswap]

I’m looking to do a solid axle swap on my Hilux Surf  What front axle could i use to do a SAS on my Surf ? It’s a KZN185??