Author Topic: Nations 3RZ-FE Turbo Swap/Build Thread MegaSquirt Install (Read 163436 times)

Nation · « **Reply #450 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 11:03:37 AM »

Started mocking up the intercooler piping. I was hesitant to utilize this setup because it is only good for 10 psi, but 10PSI will be plenty fora while..... and it was free.

Nation · « **Reply #451 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 11:08:33 AM »

Quote from: Crunchy Taco on Sep 21, 2014, 09:08:21 AM

Its runnin good enough to waste people, right on. What kind of afr you runnin when your just puttin around ?

14-15.. never steady at 15 but itll show every once in a while.. usually 14-14.9 Thats on the city streets. ... when i jump on it sometimes it will drop to 10ish then go up to 11.1-11.4......

On the freeway its a pig. just cruising afr is reading 9-10.... I definitely need a tune. I also am having an issue where if i down shift into some hi rpms and gun it it falls on its face. I have a pathetic air filter on there.. maybe thats the cause. idk... when this happens the afr is reading rich at 10-11... fuel is there.... I really need to get my tach working...

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #452 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 11:32:24 AM »

My audi had twin side mount IC's that had PLASTIC end tanks.... they saw 22 psi so I think your aluminum IC should not have an issue!

Little rich eh? I like to see solid 11.7 with anything over 10-15 psi but better than leaning out my friend! Its falling on its face because its way too rich, How much boost are you running? If its running those AFR's you can start turning up the boost 2 psi at a time and see how she likes it. Definitely need a tuning interface... What filter? Spectre? I have the same one but 6'' long, works great for me $Beer Chug\'n$

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #453 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 12:39:25 PM »

That's just to cover their ass... Oh don't even get me started on German engineering.... And I'm German...

Well may I give you a suggestion? Buy yourself a Hallman manual boost controller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SILVER-Hallman-Pro-Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-/380998391170?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b5461582&vxp=mtr

Leave the light spring in it and start twisting it in a turn at a time, watch boost/AFR's and see what it does.

Nation · « **Reply #454 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 04:40:44 PM »

Almost there. Once i get all the piping worked out I will weld it all together. I was also going to wrap the intake pipe going over the turbo with that exhaust wrap. try and keep the the heat down.

Nation · « **Reply #455 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 04:44:28 PM »

n6dlh · « **Reply #456 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 06:14:29 PM »

You need a bypass valve, you can get some of the SAAB or VOLVO style bosh valves cheap. They work great

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/saab-turbo-bypass-valve-4441895?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7vmgBRDdnLPZp7aBlroBEiQA7_NmV0AYeV_IS-Zrmiw4myt6CehJBWgnzGtWqlJGml99GGsaAsI18P8HAQ

This is the style I am talking about. Most of the kits you see will be a BOV, but most of the people want to make the cool noise. Whit higher boost you will still hear the bypass valve blow off the pressure. I would rather people hearing the turbo spool as they are looking at the tail lights, or the dirt being kicked up by the tires!

I would suggest doing the resistor mod on the tach, it takes like 5 minutes to do after the tach is out. I have a feeling there will be no difference than the dual coil as far as PCM signal to the tach, it would be counter productive for Toyota to run multiple gauges for different engine combo's. For about 1.49 at radio shack you can get some 10k ohm 1/4 watt resistor pack of 5.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23540.0

According to this thread, the last post on the bottom said they did it with a quad coil motor and it worked fine.I can confirm that is does work on the dual coil motor, I have mine working fine. The tach is effectively looking for the coil to fire, the amount of pulses sent is the RPM of the engine. The PCM is replacing the coil and sending the signal to the tach. The coil when it fires sends out a lot of voltage when the primary coil breaks down, and the amplitude of the signal is larger than that of the PCM supplied signal. The 2 resistors in parallel allow more current with less of a voltage drop, allowing the PCM signal to drive the tachometer. DIS systems should be the same, 2 coil, 4 coil it should not matter.

Also there is a Potentiometer on the tach that can be used to adjust the tach to the correct reading if it is off. I noticed you changed the needle so you may need to do a light adjustment on the gauge to get it to read correctly. I did not have to adjust anything on mine, my SR5 cluster came from a V6 and I originally adjusted it for the 22re tach output. I verified the tach reading using my scan tool to monitor the engine RPM PID in the data stream.

Keep up the good work, and I will keep following the thread.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #457 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 07:12:29 PM »

Good work. Yea I was just curious about your afr numbers. I just got mine hooked up tonight and guna see where I'm at when I drive it tomorrow.

Nation · « **Reply #458 on:** Sep 21, 2014, 07:51:41 PM »

Great Links! Thanks for sharing n6. Ill give the resistor a try tomorrow after i finish up with the intercooler piping. I started cutting the cab to run the piping through, but holy crap was it loud. So i figured I would wait til tomorrow when everyone was at work..

Nation · « **Reply #459 on:** Sep 22, 2014, 11:50:28 AM »

I'm interested to see if I will get any pressure drop from the intercooler. Just waiting for the paint to dry.

Nation · « **Reply #460 on:** Sep 22, 2014, 02:26:48 PM »

Got everything all painted/mounted. I just need to make a few support brackets for the piping in x2 places and its good to go. Went a lot smoother than I had anticipated.

Nation · « **Reply #461 on:** Sep 22, 2014, 02:27:41 PM »

I tucked the Intercooler away where it will still get great air flow, but not be too visible..

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #462 on:** Sep 22, 2014, 02:37:02 PM »

lookn good bud!

Nation · « **Reply #463 on:** Sep 23, 2014, 06:30:19 AM »

So, I dropped 2 psi after adding the intercooler. I was able to connect the boost controller and got it back up to 6 psi (8 psi total), but that's all my stock computer will allow. Not bad. It actually drives much smoother now and does feel like it pulls a little better. Especially when its cooler outside. This thing rips at night. The ecu dumps fuel. At times the afr goes down to 9.0. Needless to say, lMy mileage is crap right now. Whenever there is no vacuum in the intake the ecu will just dump fuel. If I go 55 on the freeway then the afr will be in the 14-15 range... at 70 it's around 10 lol. I still need to get a good video up. Also planning on chopping up my hood and letting some heat out.

Nation · « **Reply #464 on:** Sep 23, 2014, 07:29:12 AM »

What are people doing for injectors on these RZ motors?

Nation · « **Reply #465 on:** Sep 23, 2014, 10:00:22 AM »

N6. I could hug you for finding that thread about the tach. I got my tach working in about 10 minutes total time. Haven't seen this thing move in a year. I am one happy camper.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #466 on:** Sep 23, 2014, 05:57:54 PM »

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #467 on:** Sep 24, 2014, 12:31:59 PM »

I like the way your engine bay is lookin now!

Tungsten Slayer · « **Reply #468 on:** Sep 24, 2014, 01:14:29 PM »

Quote from: NATION on Sep 23, 2014, 07:29:12 AM

What are people doing for injectors on these RZ motors?

Supra 7mg-te injectors are like 440cc iirc. I think its a matter of getting high or low impedence injectors and matching up plugs to make them work..

Nation · « **Reply #469 on:** Sep 24, 2014, 05:12:30 PM »

List is getting shorter. I removed the Cat today. Need Injectors, head studs, oil pump and some tuning..... Then I save for the built motor

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #470 on:** Sep 24, 2014, 06:25:48 PM »

Quote from: Tungsten Slayer on Sep 24, 2014, 01:14:29 PM

Supra 7mg-te injectors are like 440cc iirc. I think its a matter of getting high or low impedence injectors and matching up plugs to make them work..

Yes, the black tops are 440cc... I kick myself in the ass for selling all my supra stuff, I need those for my 4runner now...

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #471 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 04:58:30 AM »

Don't you hate that.

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #472 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 07:36:01 AM »

Every time I drive my yota I fear getting pulled over because they seem to profile yotas... Never get messed with in the loud whistling boosted no cat water methanol injected blacked out lowered audi though.... kinda strange...

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #473 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 07:12:22 PM »

I used the tacoma cluster which I think has the vss built into it. sends signal to the ecu. I had no vss code when I got my truck reffed. I had an EVAP code, a bad gas cap

, and no brake signal to the ecu. fixed those and was good to go

Tungsten Slayer · « **Reply #474 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 08:51:46 PM »

Quote from: NATION on Sep 25, 2014, 06:31:22 PM

also looking into getting rid of this vss code...

The ecu wants to see a 4 pulse square wave signal for the VSS.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #475 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 09:36:08 PM »

I got an electric vss from an early 90s gear driven case. My taco plugged right into it and been good ever since.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #476 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 09:41:33 PM »

I just thought for a min. You have to wire all that

in. Ok now I get it. That will be fun.

Nation · « **Reply #477 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 10:42:34 PM »

Nation · « **Reply #478 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 10:48:37 PM »

1985CRAWLER · « **Reply #479 on:** Sep 25, 2014, 11:04:41 PM »

can you still smoke em both with the true-trac?

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Nation [OP]

Related Topics