FEAR OF RUNNER build up (dual case time)

[DTB]

I had to grind mine ALOT. There was some serious knuckle to gusset contact on the top. The bottom was pretty much fine but you can see where I had to grind the top. There is not much gusset left on the top. The space between the axle tube and ball is covered so I guess its ok. I also have TG rock rings on the inside of the knuckle further decreasing clearance. I guess marlin and TG parts are not compatible lol its alot easier to grind most of the material off before welding and it really sucks if you get the knuckle all installed and then realize it dont turn. ask me how I know

[Lopz 4Xs]

I have an 87 IFS runner. I was hoping If you guys dint mind posting a few more detailed pics of your conversion. I have a buudy with a machine shop and I want to see if he can make the mounts I need for me. Thanx in advance

[blackdiamond]

I have an 87 IFS runner. I was hoping If you guys dint mind posting a few more detailed pics of your conversion. I have a buudy with a machine shop and I want to see if he can make the mounts I need for me. Thanx in advance

Other than the front crossmember, you would be ahead to just purchase the front shackle tube ($20 plus $20 for jigs), rear spring mount ($45) and rear shackle hanger ($35).  You best bet is to get a Marlin SAS Kit with or without the springs depending on what you want for springs.  So far, there are two threads with people working with TG and All Pro setups that are looking to the Marlin forum to solve their problems.

[Lopz 4Xs]

Thanks for the feedback.

[Not A Toy]

 its on like pokemon pregnant dog i cant wait to get a photo to touch up!

[RHG]

Its looking good. I wish all my parts were still pretty and new...but that would mean that I wasnt using them the way they were meant to be. Cant wait to see it out in the dirt and rocks.

[Fearofrunner]

its on like pokemon pregnant dog i cant wait to get a photo to touch up!

what you dont like my new avatar nat? maybe you shouldn't write on the side of my 4runner then. Photo shop can do amazing things.

[Fearofrunner]

thanks volcom and DTB for the pictures and info,  i got all that stuff installed yesterday along with the FROR ARP studs.  It's late now i'll post pics tomorrow at work.

[Fearofrunner]

Ok this is what happened yesterday,




Measured out the knuckle gussets out, you guys where right alot is taken off of them along with the support.  I figure the bottom gussets will make up for the lose though. And now there is a place to mount the shocks up to.




All ground to fit




Centered with perch hole to turnion bearing race



Did the same on the bottom gussests

[Fearofrunner]

then i worked on the ARP studs for the knuckles, $90 plus shipping  but they are the only company that your going to get them from so what do you do?? http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=44&osCsid=42b9ae6e64b39b89f4ad13b009199481

Anyways this is how i did it, pretty simple didn't take a long time but it wore me out getting those things cranked to 80 ft lbs.



I double nutted the stud and tightend them against each other, then used the bottom nut to spin the stud free.





ARP studs are .125 or 1/4" longer than the factory studs.  FROR even sends good locking nuts and a tube of locktight.



I put the studs in the same way as i took em out but had to pinch the nuts together with a torq wrench on top and a open end wrench with a cheater bar on the bottom and tightened to 80 ft lbs.  i put some locktight on the threads and cranked the top nut only until the torq wrench popped at 80 ft lbs.  (you don't realise how much 80 ft lbs is until you have to use just arm strength to tighten) 



After both knuckles where done just for and giggles i put the new marlin billet arms on and compared them to the stockers,  They are at least twice as thick as the toyota arms. and twice as pretty 

[Volcom]

Nice work on the gussets.  It's alot easier to trim them before then after welded on the axle.

Nice steering arms studs.  I'll probably end up that route one of these days.  Same with the ARP hub studs.

[Not A Toy]

please hurry and get done with the runny because i want to go for a ride in it with you.we should all take our trucks out to kelton and kill rabbits and sleep over drink liquor build a fire cook some beans maybe even shoot clay pigeons

[weirdtimes_7]

Damn dude, that thing is look freaking sweet... i wanna come over and help....

military_stang

[DTB]

Anyways this is how i did it, pretty simple didn't take a long time but it wore me out getting those things cranked to 80 ft lbs.

double check those torque specs......they are higher for the upgraded studs....It seems like I remember Brian saying its like 100 or 110 ft/lbs....

[Fearofrunner]

maybe they are but i was just worried about the stud stripping the knuckle out, even though the knuckle is some thick cast, it's still cast and i dont trust it.  the manual says to tighten the stud nuts down to 80 ft lbs so that's what i went with.  If you happen to stumble across the actual numbers that need to be used could you post up the link for me?? thanks for the info DTB

[Fearofrunner]

Nevermind DTP i found it on pirate, it's 110' to 120' lbs  i'm going to change that when i get home, but first i need to stop off at home depot and get a new torq wrench. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ellinger
Exactly. Last time we TORQUED JRT"s studs, was before Goldendale. Now 3 comps on them, and none have loosened AT ALL. ARP's of course. We torque these things to 110-120 ft/lbs.

...


Brian, I spoke to you on the phone earlier today about ordering one stud due to my broken one.

I really think you should include some instructions with the studs mentioning to torque them to 110-120ft/lbs. like I said I torqued mine to the factory spec (about 80ft/lb iirc) I think if I had of known this mine wouldn't have backed off & broken. Not that I'm blaming anyone, I know its my fault for not checking them as part of pre-trip inspection, but it would have been nice to know
__________________
'80 Toy p/u
Longfields, duals cases, welded F&R w/ hydro assist, and beadlocked 36" SX's

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Last edited by Big_Ern : 09-26-2006 at 11:57 PM.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=495897&page=2

[DTB]

Nevermind DTP i found it on pirate, it's 110' to 120' lbs  i'm going to change that when i get home, but first i need to stop off at home depot and get a new torq wrench. 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=495897&page=2

I dont think they sell torque wrenches over 100 ft lbs....last time i checked anyway.....

[Fearofrunner]

I think they got a husky that goes to 220 if i remember right. It's like 3 ft long half inch drive.  I need something better than the ole 3/8th from harbor freight

[DTB]

I think they got a husky that goes to 220 if i remember right. It's like 3 ft long half inch drive.  I need something better than the ole 3/8th from harbor freight

right on.. good luck with the build its looking sharp

[Fearofrunner]

OK well i got a torque wrench and tightened the studs down to 110' lbs and all i got to say is fu*#k that!!  the first one i did buried so deep into the knuckle that i might have clearance issues from the knuckle to the top of the bell.  on top of that i don't know if the nut is even going to seat far enough onto the stud and now the marlin arms don't just slide on anymore they have to be beat on with a brass hammer! I was pissed at first but just said the hell with it it'll work.   But just my  DONT TIGHTEN THE ARP STUDS TO 120 FT LBS!!!!  I would say 100 at most, that's just too tight for high carbon steel to cast. Luckily it didn't strip them out. 



OH AND DTB  NO HARD FEELINGS TOWARDS YOU THAT INFO CAME FROM FROR JUST WARNING YOU I WOULD'NT TIGHTEN THEM THAT HARD. 


UPDATE!!! Ok i found out the actual torque for these studs, they're only suppose to be torqued to 28 to 30 ft lbs  and the stud nuts are to be torqued to 110 to 120 ft lbs. ... should researched it more http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=576001

[Not A Toy]

      get it dont already. you have a axle now so no excuses! 

[Volcom]

Looking good! 

[Fearofrunner]

Well i had alot of good pictures on how the sky's spacer kit went on but my digital camera's memory card was messed up, so i lost most of the pictures. 

Anyways here's the 4cyl 5.29 with the aussie.



Here is the old third that was originally in the back axle, then got moved to the front axle after $400 of maching to fix a spun bearing.  It still came out looking like this 



I had alot of good pictures of how i did this spacer, it pisses me off the camera crapped out on me, sorry guys.

the bolts for the hub (to bolt the spacer on) and the bolts for the rotor (to bolt the rotor to the spacer) all got torqued down to 65' lb (60'-70' lbs) from Sky's website http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/sky_instructions.htm

Added some red locktight to all threads... i dont want any of this    commin apart

[Fearofrunner]

Got the marlin axle truss put on, it's pretty much a slap on and weld kinda deal but i ground the corners off and took a little of the top of the truss (part that sits on the differential housing) and rounded it to fit the housing so it would set down further on axle in fill in the gaps better.  Also i took some scrap and filled in the ends of the truss so it's totally sealed.



after a wire wheel job and some brake cleaner i got some primer on it.

[Fearofrunner]

Not super important information but it might help some people out.  I went to get differential gaskets from autozone.  Had the dude look up the numbers and he said "we got two different gasket sizes for you 84"  one was a 7 3/4" and the other was a 7 13/16" (felt-pro #RDS 55428). so i got the bigger 7 13/16 thinking that maybe the smaller one was for a 2wd.  The guy rings two of them up...$25.67!!!  What the hell it's like $.25 worth of paper if that.  Went home to put it on and only two studs would fit at a time.  Well it ended up ripping the gasket in half and then i knew it wasn't going to work.  so i went to checkers this time and they had three different gaskets but one was a 7.8 (felt-pro #RDS 55431), he brought it out and right away i knew that was the gasket because it had the cut outs for the ring gear that the differential housing also had.  Besides that they had the right one the price was 60% cheaper than autozone being only 4.99. 

My point is that to make it easier for anyone reading this next time you get a gasket for you differential make sure to get the felt-pro #RDS 55431 if you got the 4wd 4runner or pick-up 79-95 and get it from checkers or have autozone match their price.  Just some 






 

[Fearofrunner]

got the v6 in the painted axle



got the rear brakelines bent and plummed and put in the 4cly diff with the Aussie

[Fearofrunner]

Tonight i got the front axle hung and cross member welded in place

[Jud]

lookin good.

[Fearofrunner]

sand blasted the hub dials and painted them back up along with the tie rod ends




got the knuckles, steering arms, rotors and hubs bolted up...

[Fearofrunner]

went to mock up the steering box and realized that i forgot to cut the axle rap dohicky thing off.





got the steering box mount drilled and clamped in place