FEAR OF RUNNER build up (dual case time)

Started by Fearofrunner, January 15, 2007, 01:04:42 PM

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THK Matt

2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

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Fearofrunner

You guys say you want pictures hu??? Ok here goes, hope you don't have dial up  :talkingn:

skipnrocks

Quote from: Fearofrunner on February 06, 2008, 03:12:15 PM
You guys say you want pictures hu??? Ok here goes, hope you don't have dial up  :talkingn:

Hey man not so many pics !!  Cant handle the visual overload!
Life is too short!!!   Do something with it!!!

WILLYNILLY
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23944.new#new

red

read and comment :whip:

USAF EOD tech

Fearofrunner


Fearofrunner

Ground down the shift rail for clearance




Notatoy helped grind down the case





Some gear comparison,  :turtle: right Toyota left



Fearofrunner

#276
 :turtle: 4.7 23 spline installed and looking bling




I measured the 21 & 23 and the outside diameter is... (23 spline 30mm and some  :twocents: )
                                                                         (21 spline 27mm and some :twocents: ).
Now i know that don't sound like much but thats 3 mm more all the way around and and 2 extra splines and splines all the way up the shaft vs. half way... so cool  :cool:

Cut the driver side hi/low rod via.  :turtle: instructions. (1/2 inch taken off)



REDs old case finally assembled (thanks for sellin us the runner at such a good price man  :disturbed:)



My greasy ass tranny and t-case (g52- forward shift)



After $8 at the car wash



Fearofrunner

Started to pull the g52 t-case apart




This is the shift rail that you keep and weld the tab to the fork for hi/lo selection of the first case



The passenger side shift rod comes out and is not used. (on the left in the pic but if in the truck would be on the right/passenger)



Now  :turtle: recommends using a bearing splitter and a press to get the low range gear off of the main shaft but, since not everyone has a bearing splitter and a press this is a good easy (poor mans) way of taking it off.



It took a few good downward smacks on a 2x4 to get it but no damage was done to the threads or the gear/bearing in the process.  :thumbs:






Fearofrunner

This is what i found interesting...




The adapters main shaft for the dual case (left) just imitates the original Toyota main shaft (right)  :suprised:
The gear/bearing you take off the main shaft goes right back on the  :turtle: shaft in the same order. 1/4 dent ball goes back on with some grease and the new thrust washer is used






Main shaft in adapter



Now the fun part...

red

looks good man :thumbs: so wheres a pic of the old crossmember that i destroyed? :rofl:
read and comment :whip:

USAF EOD tech

Fearofrunner

The blasted c-clip they give you is 3/16 inch thick!! :yikes: It took everything i had on our c-clip pliers to get that thing to spread and even then it wasn't enough.  :snare: So i bought a better pair of pliars at autozone that spread further and had a little beefier tips. WOW still had a hell of a time but with help from the old man, some wood clamps, socket extension, and a hammer it went right in  :ack:

Good pliers on the left and not so good pliers on the right. (they both bent)



Wood clamps where used to hold the pliers apart at maximum spread



Got it!  :clap:



:turtle: says the oilling gap form the main shaft gear to the low range gear should be between .004 & .012.
Mine was .004




Fearofrunner

Welded the tab onto the hi/low shift rod




the 5 studs into the adapter and i used the doubled butted nut trick (the furthest stud on the right) and some red lock-tight to keep them from moving.




Used two bolts that originally went into the stock case to finish bolting the adapter on


Fearofrunner

Ran into another problem when i got the cases together, the 2wd/4wd arm was hitting on some cast slag so i ground that off.




All bolted together weighing in at 1,000 lbs... well maybe not that much but pretty close  :gap:




superyota

man! that looks really long.  i just got done building my crawl box, but havn't had a chance to bput it in yet.  what do your drivelines look like?
ABD Motorsports
#4475

If you can't convince them, confuse them.
Placer County Crawlers - President 2011-2016
www.placercountycrawlers.com

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Fearofrunner

Now interior time ( i got a rear OEM denco heater for sale is anyone wants it)




Measured 11 1/2 inches back from the forward shifter and drew a black line across tunnel, then cut a 4x4 inch hole with a cut off grinder dead center to my black line.






Fearofrunner

Quote from: superyota on February 06, 2008, 05:10:19 PM
man! that looks really long.  i just got done building my crawl box, but havn't had a chance to bput it in yet.  what do your drivelines look like?

I'll post pics of that in just a sec man. Read this for now. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=41790.0

That's the problem i had at first.  Gotta do the same thing to the front DS and cross member till i can afford a budbuilt.

superyota

i got my budbuilt cross memeber, so hopefully i'll get away with not having to do that.
ABD Motorsports
#4475

If you can't convince them, confuse them.
Placer County Crawlers - President 2011-2016
www.placercountycrawlers.com

Rubicon Trail Foundation - Property Committee member
Friends of Fordyce - Board Member
KK6QDW

Fearofrunner

flywheel resurfaced for 35 bucks



Rear all pro t-case brake bolted on.



The man you see in the pic is NOTATOY (pete) He put the t-case brake on for me and came up with the genuis idea to use tie down straps to hold the tranny up while we fiddled with the input shaft on the back of the engine. And so much more! (Dude pete man you helped me so much man i couldn't do it without ya dawg... i owe you a  :beer: or a box of  :chillpill:, hahaha thanks amigo  :bowdown: )




OH so close to being perfect.



it looks like the whole tranny is shifted more passanger than straight down the middle, hopefully it's suppose to be like that or the bud built x-member will straightin it out.




Fearofrunner

Now the next problem. Fuel return lines and a tunnel support got in the way of the t-case rotor.



lines moved and tunnel about to get cut





Next problem, shifter to close to the middle console, this is in 2wd. (oh and i got two consoles one from our donor 4runner and one from my buddies 85 and combined them together. That's where the brown console comes from out of the 85)



So i cut a relive cut in the opposite side of the way the shifter had to bend, that way it would open up the relief cut and i could weld the new gap closed.




Welded



2wd



4wd





red

so what all is left in my old 4runner? steering wheel and nothin else?
read and comment :whip:

USAF EOD tech

Fearofrunner

Drilled and cut the center portion of the counsel where the shifter will come up through




Painted the console black with krolyon plastic etch paint and re vinaled the arm rest. (bottom part use to be the brown 85 and the middle and top came from a maroon 88) Turned out nice i think.






Fearofrunner

Quote from: red on February 06, 2008, 05:51:01 PM
so what all is left in my old 4runner? steering wheel and nothin else?

No it's mostly all there but it's slowly comming apart haha

toyotaexo


Duffil

future note on the snap ring--use Lock ring pliers instead of snap ring pliers.  snap ring pliers have those little pins, but lock ring pliers have two wide, grippy ears that work MUCH better on that damn thing.

Doof

looks good dude.... i like what you did with the 2nd shifter. looks good, i was thinking of doing that when i put my cases in

DeadlyPeace

So when are you going to post a few pics? :rofl2: :yupyup: :cheese:


Looks great. Awesome work.
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twistedtoy92

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Not A Toy

Quote from: Duffil on February 06, 2008, 07:41:20 PM
future note on the snap ring--use Lock ring pliers instead of snap ring pliers.  snap ring pliers have those little pins, but lock ring pliers have two wide, grippy ears that work MUCH better on that damn thing.
thanks duffil, I didnt know there was such a thing. I went to his house last night its amazing the traction you get just letting it crawl.


:chillpill: or  :beer: either or haha. that center console turned out pimp man.
_[O!!!!!O]_

People often ask how they stack crap so tall....

MiniSimp


Not A Toy

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duffil, i think those would have saved alot of headache.
_[O!!!!!O]_

People often ask how they stack crap so tall....