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Thank you ALL for your input and posts. I would not be where I am today (Im not sure where I am sometimes) without your help and support.Im not afraid to jump into the experimental realm of tuning, but I am skeptical that the outcome will give me what I wanted when started this rebuild just getting a enough noticeable increase in power (torque) at my target RPM range 2500 to 3500 by changing a $100 to $300 camshaft, adding an approximate $600 exhaust header and opened exhaust system, while keeping fuel mileage within a reasonable MPG. I believe my high quality rebuild (machine work, parts, and careful assembly), bigger valves, DT header and exhaust, the right cam profile - *should* produce the increase I believe is possible.For me, making that jump will most likely involve spending $400 to $500 for high quality AFR meter, a laptop computer, and hours and hours of experimental test and tweak time. At that point, my power gain (over factory stock) to cost ratio becomes unacceptable.Right now I believe my engine is running a lean mixture, not cold starting like it should, and making some noise that I dont think I should be hearing.Im going to find out why.Gnarls.
I really don't think there's enough difference in overlap to make a difference (I may be wrong). With all the work to swap a cam, this would be one of the last things I'd try.I'm thinking fuel pressure low.........Back to overlap, a quick (noisy) test for too much overlap is to loosen the valves so there's less overlap. Add .002 to each. I can see reducing the overlap to stock specs just to see what happens. Or even tighten by .002 to see if it gets worse..
Hitachi main jets cost $3.29 each .
No I'm just messing with you. You will get it dialed.
Less intake and exhaust duration = less overlap
Opening the valve lash will not change the duration.... BUT does it increase or decrease the overlap?
Yes it will..........tight valves will have slightly more duration, loose valves slightly less duration.....Did you degree the camshaft when installing?
The #slightly# may just be enough to drop the overlap to 'stock' specs..............
Gnarly, when I get back home on Sunday I'll pull my plugs and take a look at them. I'm dropping from 4,300' elevation to around 950'. I'm running the same cam as you and haven't noticed any of the problems you've had. So I'll be intrested to see how my plugs look.
I personally haven't but when I talked to Ted about doing that he said that they use ratchet straps to keep the pressure. Since my truck is my only form of transportation I didn't want to take the risk.
Who, if anybody, has swapped a camshaft on 22 on a healthy running engine (after it stops and cools off ), without disturbing the head or head gasket? Gnarls.
It's been done but not advisable. Just pull the head off and do it the right way.If you would have used an Lc cam in the first place you wouldn't be doing it twice.
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