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Did you get a new sock with the pump?
I had to replace the pump on an 85 T-bird ages ago........A piece of rubber from the sock had jammed up the pump.You probably had something similar and dropping it dislodged junk.......
Bad spark, or bad injector.
IIRC, the 22re is batch fired, so the harness connectors and injectors are basically interchangeable, or at least as far as the connectors will reach.Can you hear feel the #1 injector firing, smell fuel on the #1 spark plug?
I think you maybe do have to dig those injectors out if you are getting spark. Don't freak out this is probably something stupid simple and you just have to use the process of elimination to find it.Don't take this the wrong way, but I have to mention it. Could your distributor be off a tooth or 180 degrees out? I have done this a great many times over the years .
I don't know how I would feel or hear the injector firing? Gnarls.
I have flashbacks to years ago when I was testing 22R/RE cam profiles on my DD and researching. One of guys I was communicating with had been testing 22RE camshafts and tested engbldr 261C in his 22RE. He said he thought it caused a "lean fire" condition (I assume lean mixture in one or more cylinders). As I remember, Ted responded on Pirate at the time and posted that he had not seen that issue with the 22RE and his 261C camshaft.With that said, according to what I've read, the opening and closing (lobe lift and duration) of the intake valves plays NO part in the injection timing - but that information is referencing the STOCK engine. BUT... I wonder how much overlap the ECU will tolerate?It takes to 2 (two) complete crankshaft revolutions to get enough fuel injected into the chambers because the injectors only get 1/2 the full amount - 1/2 the pulse time - during one revolution.I'm puzzled.I appreciate the input!!Gnarls.
Using a stethoscope you can hear the injector "tick" during starting or running, and should be able to reach in under/between the rad hose and intake to feel the #1 injector pulse with your finger. The click/pulse should be precise/snappy.Might try starting it again with the coil unplugged and compare the wetness of #1 and #2, not sure how much fuel gets carried in from the cold start injector.
Probably could use the MD scope with a heavy wire, with either one, don't put both eat piece in, end engine now are too loud, I leave mine outside the ear canal, just for enough to hear what is going on.
If the spark plug is wet with fuel and smells like fuel then the injector should not be a problem. Are you sure you have spark at cyl. num 1? If you have fuel on the spark plug, and you have spark, then it can only be timing related, valve lash related, or mecanical damage.
How old is the gas?
Have you seen this thread? May be worth looking into the injector harness just in case. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-22re-injector-problem-i-had.311436/
In the category of simple, stupid things: Do you have the ground from the back of the head to the fire wall hooked up? This will sometimes make them not fire up. I once rescued a guy on the side of the road with a dead 22re who had a crusty, broken ground there, I made him a new one and he drove home.EFI fuse? Stupid but I have fried this too and had it fool me. Along the same line: Circuit opening relay clicking?The EFI/Main lead to the battery positive in good shape and still there? You know the smaller lead coming from the bottom of the under hood fuse box to the battery. I was doing suspension on an '87 for a guy and it wouldn't start half the time, it happened that that lead looked OK but was all green inside. Replaced it and it fired right up.Other dumb items include a fried coil/ignitor. They can make spark but a weak spark and fool you. I have had that before. Best to swap it out and try another one from a wrecking yard or a buddy for diagnosis. Different years have different plugs but the same wires, so they are interchangeable to a degree.On the compression, I may be wrong but I know I have had engine with horrible compression, broken rings, burnt valves, etc that will still fire and run. I can't imagine with your meticulous rebuild that this would be the problem.That's about all I have for you this morning. I really want to see a first fire video!
Hey Gillesdetrail,I have a bad gut feeling that this issue is not spark or fuel. I hope I'm wrong!... and I will be glad to discover it's something simple. Although there are very few things, in my experience, with anything I would call "simple" with this engine.I will go back and re-check ALL adjustments again, just be sure I've not missed something.I will re-check cam timing and ignition timing. If it's mechanical, and it's a low compression issue, then it's likely the valves or valve seats. This is a brand new RV head, OS valves, with a 261C cam installed by Tod at engbldr. I'd be surprised it's a cylinder, piston, or piston rings... although anything is possible. The block was bored 20 over, crank, pistons, rods, balanced, mic'd, magnafluxed and sonic tested by one of the most reputable engine builders/speed shops in Phoenix.... but again anything is possible.The injectors were rebuilt by WitchHunter.. a highly reputable injector specialist.However... this is a 31 year old vehicle and engine, so I'm not really surprised that I've encountered unexpected issues. The truck was parked and in my garage for 3 1/2 years.I will figure it out, with the input of everyone here who wants to share something, as I usually do.There must be a reason why this is happening to me, so I'll assume I'm suppose to wait a little longer to get my truck back on the road again.... and "work" longer on this project.I tell myself this is just a relatively simple engine, and to rebuild it and I should not need a PhD in automotive engineering.Thanks for your input!Gnarls.
In my experience.... .... If it IS firing, then it is probably timing related since the engine runs but poorly.
From what I've read, your engine starts and runs(on 3 cylinders anyway) , reaching operating temp with good oil pressure, right? Yes, the 4 injectors are only controlled by 2 wires from the ECU combining 1&4, 2&3. Based on what you said about washing the harness I would definitely look at the 3 solder connections and redo them (which is a good thing to do on any 22re rebuild).
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