Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild

[79coyotefrg]

Gnarls, the harness is very easy.  in most cases you'll find if you have two sensors close together the wires that reach will have a different connector.  the injector wires for the #4 will reach one and three but  one and three wont reach four.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Gnarls, the harness is very easy.  in most cases you'll find if you have two sensors close together the wires that reach will have a different connector.  the injector wires for the #4 will reach one and three but  one and three wont reach four.

Ok, thanks.  Well, I'm hoping to "lower" it in by this coming week end.

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT]

I had a bad dream last night.  I could not get all the connections, hoses, injector plugs back onto my engine after dropping it back into the engine bay!!

Since I did NOT label all the wires and tubes, I'm starting to have some anxiety about getting everything properly connected.   

Is there a way to verify all the connections to the sensors, injectors, hoses, etc, etc. ??

I know there are diagrams of vacuum hose connections?

I haven't done a ton of research yet.

Any help will be most appreciated.

Gnarls.

Everything's going to be all right. 

I've done the same thing before and it's just not that bad.  If you  get the harness in the right place it's pretty apparent where things go.  Vac lines too.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Everything's going to be all right. 

I've done the same thing before and it's just not that bad.  If you  get the harness in the right place it's pretty apparent where things go.  Vac lines too.

OK, thanks.

I had to remove the throttle body before I could disconnect and remove the wire harness, as I was lifting it out of the engine bay.

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

I just hate it when you get everything back together and find a missing piece........

Then have to take everything apart to put the missing piece in.........
(or waste hours trying to figure out how to put the missing piece in without taking everything apart, before taking everything apart)

 

[:)bestgen4runner]

When I was in tech school Long Long ago.....
I had Just completed  My first turbo 350 rebuild  when I noticed a clip That I did not recall removing.
I went to My Instructor and said "where does this go, I don't recall removing it"
He responds with "That's the first piece you install it goes just above the reverse low clutch housing"
"How far are you on the reassemble?" 
"I guess I Just started"     
I will remember that clip till the day I die. Oh, and I will never forget exactly where it goes, LOL

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Well... I'm glad      I'm not the only one that might feel like a ree-tard trying to remember where every goes back together. 

It causes me a lot of frustration and self-torture for NOT marking, labeling, and photographing everything!

When I look at my bench with all the parts yet to be assembled, I feel some serious anal pucker because there should NOT be THAT many parts!!!!

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

UPDATE SEPT  19, 2016

I am taking extra time to clean and repaint parts, so I thought I’d share my “painting” experience so far.

I bought two kinds of  “engine” spray paint.  The Rust-Oleum took about 12 hours to dry to the touch.  My garage was about 95 degrees when I spayed the parts about 1pm.  When I checked on the Rust-Oleum painte parts they were still tacky at 7pm, and dry to the touch at 3:45am this morning.  The VHT paint was dry to the touch in about 30 minutes.  The nozzle on the Rust-Oleum spray a big pattern and splatters.  The VHT Engine Enamel has a really nice nozzle and sprays a very nice tight pattern.  The Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel was about half the price of VHT at Autozone, but I will buy VHT engine paint over the Rust-Oleum engine any day.

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

Let me know in a year which paint lasts longer.............

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Let me know in a year which paint lasts longer.............

Hey emsvitil,

Yeah, I thought about that.  Of course I won't didley for 1 year!

Gnarls.

[helipilot77]

UPDATE SEPT  19, 2016

I am taking extra time to clean and repaint parts, so I thought I’d share my “painting” experience so far.

I bought two kinds of  “engine” spray paint.  The Rust-Oleum took about 12 hours to dry to the touch.  My garage was about 95 degrees when I spayed the parts about 1pm.  When I checked on the Rust-Oleum painte parts they were still tacky at 7pm, and dry to the touch at 3:45am this morning.  The VHT paint was dry to the touch in about 30 minutes.  The nozzle on the Rust-Oleum spray a big pattern and splatters.  The VHT Engine Enamel has a really nice nozzle and sprays a very nice tight pattern.  The Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel was about half the price of VHT at Autozone, but I will buy VHT engine paint over the Rust-Oleum engine any day.

Gnarls.

I've had the best luck with Dupli-Color engine enamel which is good to 500 degrees and has ceramic in it. Zippo got me hooked on it. It dries fast, sticks very good to poorly prepped surfaces and is durable. I use it for bumpers and chassis painting too.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I've had the best luck with Dupli-Color engine enamel which is good to 500 degrees and has ceramic in it. Zippo got me hooked on it. It dries fast, sticks very good to poorly prepped surfaces and is durable. I use it for bumpers and chassis painting too.

OK, thanks, I'll check out Dupli-Color.  I have a few more pieces to paint.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Just to add a little more to my painting and detailing efforts during my rebuild project for those who may be like me and enjoy making the project look nice.

I like the VHT Primer.  I spent 2 or 3 hours cleaning and scrubbing the tranny & t-case with paint thinner solvent and acetone trying to degrease what looked like 30 years of grease and grime. I am impressed with the VHT Primer. It covered very well with no fish-eye or orange peel.  I am going to spray it with VHT Universal Aluminum, like I did with the throttle body.

NOTE:  the Walmart brand paint thinner that is white (Safer-green) does NOT do nearly as good as the clear formula.

While I'm thinking about it, for those who install headers, I have used a trick for years.  I wrap my header with aluminum foil before installing it so I don't get finger prints and grease on the coating or plating that will usually stain the surface as soon as you fire the engine. After its all installed, I remove the foil before firing the engine.

Gnarls.

[benjyman]

Nice

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Nice

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

Hey  Squeaky,

Thanks.

So, when I joined the Mesa 4 Wheelers way back in the late 80's, they had a traditional thing of giving a member a " CB handle".  It was funny and interesting  how each member got "assigned" a CB handle.  On one of our many club trail runs I was trying to climb a really bad-a$$ hill and I said "That is one "Double Gnarly" hill!  From that moment, my CB handle was "Double Gnarly".  So..... since YOU have been dealing with a "squeak" for quite awhile and you made us have to deal with it too, YOUR CB handle or trail handle should be "Squeaky"!!! 

Gnarls.

[kneedownnate]

I've had the best luck with Dupli-Color engine enamel which is good to 500 degrees and has ceramic in it.

  Dupli-color is my go to engine paint and has done me well for many, many years.  Very easy to get a nice finish if prepped well.

[Slabzilla]

Gnarls, nice tip on the header paint foil, been using that for years.  Dupli-color with ceramic is my go to for almost everything, great coverage & adhesion even with so so prep.  I'm doing my manifold like yours next time it's off. 

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

UPDATE 9-25-16 – Tranny & T-Case cleaned and painted 

This was a real bear to clean. Inside of the bell housing looked like it had never been cleaned - it had a about 1/4" thick layer.  The grease and grim on the tranny and t-case was baked on. After hours of scrubbing with wire brushes with paint thinner and degreaser,  I did one final de-grease with acetone and my air gun.  I sprayed it with VHT Primer, then a coat of VHT Universal Aluminum.  I left the inside of the bell housing just a good coat of primer.

I painted the clutch fork and grease shields for the U-joints with Rust-Oleum Engine Black. 

This extra work and time-consuming but I always feel better when I look at it after its all finished. 

I’ve attached the before and after photos. 

I re-installed the hose fittings and attached as many hoses as I could to the throttle body.  I’m getting close to dropping this little baby onto the motor mounts. 

Gnarls.

[79coyotefrg]

When I was in tech school Long Long ago.....
I had Just completed  My first turbo 350 rebuild  when I noticed a clip That I did not recall removing.
I went to My Instructor and said "where does this go, I don't recall removing it"
He responds with "That's the first piece you install it goes just above the reverse low clutch housing"
"How far are you on the reassemble?" 
"I guess I Just started"     
I will remember that clip till the day I die. Oh, and I will never forget exactly where it goes, LOL

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Like many others here, I have learned many hot tips and lots of great information from those who have generously taken the time to share, I also want to share what I have learned, as well as admit my mistakes and things I would do differently. 

Not to make any excuses, however this is the first complete rebuild I have done on a Toyota 22RE engine.  I rushed into this project too fast and didn’t take the time to accurately and completely photograph and video record the engine before starting disassembly, during the disassembly, and evaluating condition of all parts.

I should have been more careful at labeling parts, tubes, hoses, and connectors, and documenting the disassembly/re-assembly steps.  This is especially true where several parts needed to be connected together with several other pieces using the same bolt or nut.

I put various nuts and bolts into labeled cups because I knew I would not remember where they belonged. 

I have bolts and nuts sitting on my work table that are not labeled and I’m not sure where they go!!!.... how stupid is that? 

I have a few cups with bolts in them and the cup is NOT labeled!!... how stupid is that?? 

I learn by doing, but as a DIYer I just haven’t had the opportunities to practice, fix or repair my Toyota trucks that often… their reliability is legendary.

Will I have some parts left over after its all back together???.... holy crapity! 

Gnarls.

[Prismo]

I always get screwed up putting the power steering/alternator brackets back in. I finally took pictures the last time so I can refer to them next time.......If I even remember I took them in the first place lol

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I always get screwed up putting the power steering/alternator brackets back in. I finally took pictures the last time so I can refer to them next time.......If I even remember I took them in the first place lol

LOL!!.... Yeah during that episode of reassembly I mentally masturbated for way too long over that!!!  Even my pornographic memory didn't help me!!   

Gnarls. 

[4runner4x4]

LOL!!.... Yeah during that episode of reassembly I mentally masturbated for way too long over that!!!  Even my pornographic memory didn't help me!!   

Gnarls. 

can you send me those pictures i am scratching my head on this build

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

can you send me those pictures i am scratching my head on this build

Hey 4runner4x4,

I can post photos tonight.

Gnarls.

[4runner4x4]

thanks bud i need to upload my block aswell

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Here ya go....

Gnarls.

[:)bestgen4runner]

Here ya go....

Gnarls.

Looks Good! 
Make us a Video when you do the initial break-in, Please..............
I am a sucker for a clean 22re.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Well... it's chained to the cherry picker because I'm getting it ready to drop onto the motor mounts, but it's not balanced level.  I chained it the engine so it will not bend the hooks, like it did when I pulled it.

As I mentioned, to do it again I would paint the engine block a different color than black, probably a light gray.

The bellhousing plate is not orange, it's actually the same color as the rocker cover.

Thank you, the video recording suggestion is a good one.  I didn't think of that.  I'll see how I can get someone to video me prepping and firing the engine for camshaft break-in.

I decided to install the stock exhaust header and exhaust piping with cat and muffler.  I am very curious to see how much difference in a dyno test when I swap in the DT header and 2.25" exhaust.  After its broken in for a couple thousand miles, I want to dyno it.  The next day, I want to install the DT header and new exhaust, drive it for a couple days to make sure Mommy ECU is happy, then dyno it again.

I still need to buy a new O2 sensor because I don't know much heat they can handle. I'm sure when I over heated the engine, the stock exhaust header was probably glowing red, and of course the O2 sensor is sitting near the bottom of the stock exhaust header.

Gnarls.

[4runner4x4]

thank you very much.

[Smithk2ski]

Nice