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You might be able to deck it then port and polish it.. them it might be worth itSent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Full long block rebuild buy Tod (ENGNBLDR). Only original parts are the block, rods, crank and headStainless pistonsChrome moly rings
Where did you get stainless piston? Did that decrease your redline? Increase engine knock issues due to reduced thermal efficiency than aluminum?
That is way too advanced for me to know the answer right now. I'll head over to Tod's shop tomorrow and ask Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Oh! You know what, my bad guys.. stainless valves.. haha.. I've gotta start getting some more sleep, didn't even catch thatSent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
If i could do it again, i also would have had Tod go to .060 instead of .020 for a bit more cc.. Only other thing i wish i had gotten was LCE's oil scraper..Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
UPDATE: August 8, 2016................
What stocks should I buy Monday morning to get a HUGE profit by the end of the day ? ? ? ?
So i called a more reputable shop-English racing- and they said it's $150/hr. With a 1hr minimum.. they said I'll probably get about 3 pulls if everything goes smoothly.. another shop-fast specialties- said it'd be about $150 after tax for 2-3 pulls baseline dyno.. So.. yeah, anyone wanna pitch in $10? Hahaha...Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
I have a certificate in auto machine from a college that had student from across the country sent to this machine shop to learn auto machine.... Standard overbore should be kept to a minimum.When you jump straight to .060 over on your first bore you risk that block being junk shortly after. Just got back from the junkyard where a fresh rebuilt engine was out there due to an injector failing. Was still repairable but the whole car was junked due to the secondary damage to turbo and head. As stated "going .060 might gain you 4hp but it can also weeken cylinder walls. The 3.0 Toyota is already thin enough to fail without being bored over. We did one .040 over and ended up finding a pinhole into the water jacket. A ring could crack, or who knows. On a side note... A steel piston on a diesel makes sense as they see abuse (the story above with leaky injector was a TDI, piston was torch cut and deposited throughout the rest of the engine) but they also see much lower RPMs normally. 3800 is highRPM for many diesels 4500-5000 is screaming
I did more research on going to .060" over bore instead of only needing to go .020" over. I confirmed that I might gain 2 to 4 HP and some torque that was inidicated by my dyno software, BUT - the trade off is the block cannot be bored again without major modifications and cost. The cost of .060" over pistons is a little more $$.So... it's not really recommended unless necessary to clean the bore. It is a judgment call. Gnarls.
Couple of things, do not bore an engine to .060 over unless you have to. Unless you like buying old blocks when it's time to rebuild, or if you're like me you get to spend almost 2k at LCE for their short block kit because no one where you live can machine in a timely manner (7-8 weeks just for a head decked). Secondly, it is completely okay to just use plastigage to check clearances. It is what the FSM tells you to do. You aren't building a hot rod motor that's putting out high horsepower!
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