Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 178607 times)

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #60 on: Jul 08, 2016, 11:44:01 AM »
With silver solder, you need to apply the flux inside the connection, and it will pull the solder inside the hoping, sealing it. Don't try to apply it to the exterior of the joint the way you might weld it, that will just end up leaking.

Looks like a factory fit though :thumbs:

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1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
Projects waiting in my shop: '83 Front Axle, TG Sliders, second tcase, NEW: XD 4.70 gears!

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #61 on: Jul 08, 2016, 01:52:47 PM »
With silver solder, you need to apply the flux inside the connection, and it will pull the solder inside the hoping, sealing it. Don't try to apply it to the exterior of the joint the way you might weld it, that will just end up leaking.

Looks like a factory fit though :thumbs:

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Hi e,

Thanks. I've only used my propane torch on copper fitting for plumbing fixes.  Never tried silver soldering anything.  I have a mig welder, and learned how to weld with a home made buzz box and rods when I was about 12 years old.   I am taking my time with this rebuild.  I'm very glad I decided to do it myself.  I know without a doubt that anyone of a couple "auto mechanic repair shops" I talked to would NOT have fixed, replaced questionable parts, fabricated parts that are now unavailable, or taken the time to properly clean gasket surfaces and remove old RTV from bolts, clean the grease and paint parts, etc.

OK, I don't think there is much pressure in that brass pressed in tube, maybe same as the radiator - around 13 lbs? 

I will dab the joint with some nitrocellulose dissolved in some butyl acetate.  That's should seal up good. 

Gnarls. :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #62 on: Jul 09, 2016, 06:08:52 AM »
Subject:  Oil Pan sealant

I squirted a bead of Permatex "the Right Stuff" on my very clean oil pan yesterday.  I let it dry overnight. This morning I don't like the feel. It is very rubbery and if I mount it, it will have only slight adhesion to the block since it's dried up some.. not tacky to the touch.

So, I scraped it all off.  That "stuff" is expensive compared to a tube of Ultra Black or other RTV.

Leaving it to dry too long seems to reduce the tackiness and adhesion to the block.  Although I may have a lack of experience, my gut says that the seal would be better if the sealant was tacky on both surfaces - the block and the pan.  Of course if I bolt the pan on and the RTV is too squishy, I don't want any RTV floating around in my crankcase.

I have "HAS" (hyper analytical syndrome) and I'm probably being too overly analytical. ::)

Gnarls  :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #63 on: Jul 09, 2016, 08:34:40 AM »
The best sealer is Toyota FIPG. Every Toyota dealer has it in stock. It is different than the " wrong stuff" or any silicone you buy from auto part store.
Save your self the pain of doing things twice.
There is no better than what Toyota offers. You will find that to be true in most cases.  :twocents:
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #64 on: Jul 09, 2016, 09:45:37 AM »
I agree about fipg. However if you can't get to the dealer and you're near an O'Reilly auto parts place, get this gasket sealant. It stays tacky but still.. fipg is best with no cork/rubber gasket..



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1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
Projects waiting in my shop: '83 Front Axle, TG Sliders, second tcase, NEW: XD 4.70 gears!

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #65 on: Jul 09, 2016, 02:49:40 PM »
I glue an oil pan gasket to the pan with ultra black.

Put some plastic wrap on floor.

Set oil pan (with gasket) on plastic wrap

Add some weight to oil pan

Let sit overnight.

Then more ultra black on gasket when installing pan/gasket to engine.


Since you've glued the gasket to the pan,  it doesn't squirm around and try to escape when installing on engine.

Never had a leak doing this.
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #66 on: Jul 09, 2016, 03:50:18 PM »
I appreciate the input guys   :thumbs:

Geez... and not surprising, there are about as many recipes for sealing the oil pan as there are for home made pork ribs!!

A couple weeks ago, I checked with an expert Toyota 22RE person and they recommended no gasket, just RTV and let it sit 8 hrs or overnight.   The engines apparently came from the factory with no gasket, just sealant FIPG 

As I mentioned, leaving it dry up will not adhere well to the block - no tacky, less sticky.

The trick to letting the gasket set up on the pan, then adding some RTV, or whatever is your favorite flavor, when installing it seems good.  It seems with the "no gasket" deal, I will have to make sure the bead of sealant is fairly level and uniform, no gaps.  With the gasket, I can spread a fairly even layer on its flat surface.

The cork gaskets are known to squish out when tightening the bolts.

OK, it seems to me that if the pan is going leak crankcase oil, it will want to do that on the pan surface and around the path of least resistance - the bolt holes.   If the block surface is sealed well, the oil would have more difficultly seeping through that sealant barrier.

Candidly, I think that just about any of the popular oil resistant sealants will work fine if properly applied to the pan and block. 

Permatex says that Ultra Black is their "maximum oil sealant RTV".  the Right Stuff is a gasket maker and "formed in place" rubber material.  I have The Right Stuff in an aerosol can and it squirts out of little nozzle.

I'm going by my gut and use my own recipe, and a combination of some other hot tips. :beerchug:



Gnarls  :spin:

« Last Edit: Jul 09, 2016, 04:07:49 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #67 on: Jul 09, 2016, 04:27:03 PM »
 :nerv:
I checked with an expert Toyota 22RE person and they recommended no gasket, just RTV and let it sit 8 hrs or overnight.   The engines apparently came from the factory with no gasket, just sealant FIPG.

I have never met a Toyota 22re expert person but He or She sounds very knowledgeable. I would Just do Whatever the Toyota expert say.  :_oops:
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #68 on: Jul 09, 2016, 04:33:39 PM »
Correction, 85 and later 22re oil pans you don't use a gasket, that's why there's a dimple going in. On 84 and earlier oil pans you do use a gasket as that bump is pointed out to help seal the oil pan to the block.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #69 on: Jul 09, 2016, 04:41:45 PM »
Correction, 85 and later 22re oil pans you don't use a gasket, that's why there's a dimple going in. On 84 and earlier oil pans you do use a gasket as that bump is pointed out to help seal the oil pan to the block.

 :respekt:
Solid accurate Knowledge.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #70 on: Jul 10, 2016, 02:20:52 PM »
Does this flange require a gasket?  No gasket that fits that came in the "Master Kit"?

It's the Heater Water Outlet Pipe.  The photo is looking at the bottom of the intake manifold.

Thanks,

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Jul 10, 2016, 02:32:27 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #71 on: Jul 10, 2016, 02:29:26 PM »
Yeah, this should definitely have a gasket.. I'd double check that master kit, then email Tod of you can't find it.. this is the pipe that bolts to the backside of the water pump right? Be sure to use permatex blue, be for water pumps and thermostat housings

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1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
Projects waiting in my shop: '83 Front Axle, TG Sliders, second tcase, NEW: XD 4.70 gears!

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #72 on: Jul 10, 2016, 02:38:01 PM »
Yeah, this should definitely have a gasket.. I'd double check that master kit, then email Tod of you can't find it.. this is the pipe that bolts to the backside of the water pump right? Be sure to use permatex blue, be for water pumps and thermostat housings

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I triple checked all remaining gaskets in the kit.  Tried each one several times.  No bueno!!

I see by the diagram it show a small ring washer. But my gut says it should have a gasket on the flange as well??

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #73 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:00:48 PM »
My gut says there is a phenolic ... or rubber... ring that sits in the port.   :yesnod:

No ring or anything close came in the kit.  :shakehead:
« Last Edit: Jul 10, 2016, 03:10:43 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #74 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:07:17 PM »
Well, this looks like it.  It's an O'ring... looks like rubber??

http://www.lceperformance.com/Heater-Tube-O-Ring-Under-EFI-Manifold-22RE-OEM-Toy-p/1060012.htm

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #75 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:16:09 PM »
Again *whiny mode on*....

If these sources are selling 100's of these "Master Rebuild Kits", WHY don't they include ALL the pieces you will need?  And.... if the don't or can't, OK, but can someone say "YOU will also need this, and that, and the other thing, that does NO T come in our Master-Flipp'n-Rebuild Kit"~~~~!!  :think:

*Whiny mode off*

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #76 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:17:27 PM »
I remember that my master rebuild kit came with it.. i can go grab one from Tod tomorrow and send it

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1993 Standard cab chassis. 1989 Extended Cab. 22R-E BO .020, ENGNBLDR 261c cam, Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, Straight Pipe through a Flowmaster 40, ARB Rear Locker, York OBA with fabricated bracket.
Projects waiting in my shop: '83 Front Axle, TG Sliders, second tcase, NEW: XD 4.70 gears!

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #77 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:29:34 PM »
I remember that my master rebuild kit came with it.. i can go grab one from Tod tomorrow and send it

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OK well, my kit is defective.  e, that's mighty nice of you, ONLY if that's not too much inconvenience for you - seriously. I looked for one on Marlincrawler.com, but I could not find one.

LCE's site popped right up when I google'd it.

Thanks,

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #78 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:32:27 PM »
So once I get the little O'ring, I still would like to seal the flange at the port with some RTV??

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #79 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:40:30 PM »
Just so you guys know I'm not whacko.... I've attached a photo of 2 rings that came in the little plastic bag with the seals for the rocker arm cover.  I checked very carefully to see if either one would fit inside the port... NO BUENO.

And... I'm not yet sure what those two rings will go to by the time I get to find out.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #80 on: Jul 10, 2016, 03:57:09 PM »
Yes it uses an o ring with no sealant. You can get one at your local parts store, it's what I always do.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #81 on: Jul 10, 2016, 04:14:08 PM »
Yes it uses an o ring with no sealant. You can get one at your local parts store, it's what I always do.

Hey M,

No sealant... hmmmm... its a water pipe connection.

I'll mic the little shelf that it sits on and then I'll go to Ace-is-the-place and see what I can find.

Thanks.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #82 on: Jul 10, 2016, 04:15:39 PM »
Just so you guys know I'm not whacko.... I've attached a photo of 2 rings that came in the little plastic bag with the seals for the rocker arm cover.  I checked very carefully to see if either one would fit inside the port... NO BUENO.

And... I'm not yet sure what those two rings will go to by the time I get to find out.

Gnarls.

Does the rubber o ring fit the bottom of the 710 cap..... Wait,oil cap
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #83 on: Jul 10, 2016, 04:18:00 PM »
Gnarly, I fought a leak from there until I put the O-ring in. After that it never leaked and I didn't use any sealant. I had used sealant before but it didn't hold. There's no pressure in that hose as well, all that area does it give you your coolant temp.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #84 on: Jul 10, 2016, 04:21:32 PM »
there is a o ring on that water pipe, that may be it. I bet copper washer is for some sensor
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #85 on: Jul 10, 2016, 04:26:34 PM »
Does the rubber o ring fit the bottom of the 710 cap..... Wait,oil cap

Oil cap???.... the oil pan drain plug??.... no it does not.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #86 on: Jul 10, 2016, 04:27:35 PM »
Gnarly, I fought a leak from there until I put the O-ring in. After that it never leaked and I didn't use any sealant. I had used sealant before but it didn't hold. There's no pressure in that hose as well, all that area does it give you your coolant temp.

OK.... got it.  I'm going to Ace to see what they have.

Thanks again for all the input!

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #87 on: Jul 10, 2016, 04:32:15 PM »
Oil cap???.... the oil pan drain plug??.... no it does not.

Gnarls.

sorry nothing to reference size with, stick a dollar bill next to it
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #88 on: Jul 10, 2016, 05:20:52 PM »
sorry nothing to reference size with, stick a dollar bill next to it

Yeah, I after posted those I realized there's no frame of reference.   :smack:  Good idea!   :thumbs:

 I'll put an object next to the object I'm photographing next time I do that.

Because I'm so short on dollar bills, can I use a copper penny?  :gap:

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Jul 10, 2016, 05:32:53 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #89 on: Jul 10, 2016, 05:38:47 PM »
Object reference for size...

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

 
 
 
 
 

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