whats this mod you speak of?
Marlin has been doing it for years now. Take a stock mount, broken or not, and grind off the top side stud. Then drill straight through the entire mount all the way through the lower metal plate. It can sometimes be tough as the rubber causes a lot of friction on the drill bit, so you may have to drill part way from both ends. The only issue here is trying to keep the holes aligned and true. Then we run a long bolt inserted from the bottom plate and up through the top plate where the stud used to be, using a bolt of equivalent resulting length to match the length of the original stud. Then reinstall the mount as normal. We use delrin bushings between the bolt head and the lower plate to reduce vibrations and make sure you use a lock washer so you can keep the bolt in place without over tightening the rubber mount to death.
This is why we don't offer any aftermarket engine mounts. We don't like them and none of us use them. They are too rigid and cause too much vibration. The nice thing about the Marlin Bolt Mod engine mount is that it is a one-way lock: It still has the factory feel for compression as the bolt is just simply unloaded. Marlin says it's only needed for the driver's side mount, since that mount is forced to expand during acceleration (and the load is transferred to the bolt instead of the soft rubber) but I also run one on my passenger's mount to get a "tighter" drive train feel during the transition from acceleration to coast.
The cost is simply a bolt, a few washers, the delrin piece and your time to modify it. Waaaaay less expensive than aftermarket rigid mounts and they cause Very minor difference in vibration. It's something that only the daily driver will notice given the right variables. After two days I could no longer tell it vibrates more than stock and I'm running them on both sides.
BigMike
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