OVRAROK. My 87 4runner

[OVRAROK]

No disrespect but,
I advise against this, there are several systems that are not powering up based on his descriptions.
I don't think its just the cranking portion of the system that is inop.
If you would be willing to perform a few tests using a volt meter and test light we can eliminate several possabilities with a few tests.
Just let me know and I would be happy to help You.
I can tell you are frustrated.
Say the word and I will but out. 

gimme a few test, id appreciate any and all help, thanks bud

[HogCanyonHopper]

Yeah I am just making that suggestion so you can get the thing to turn over and hopefully fire up. You can always change the wire back the way it was. It's only one wire. 

[:)bestgen4runner]

First I will need some information so I can make test easy for you.
What year is your 4runner ?
What year is donor engine ?
This information will hopefully allow me to give you wire colors and pin # when performing tests.

[SqWADoosh]

First I will need some information so I can make test easy for you.
What year is your 4runner ?
What year is donor engine ?
This information will hopefully allow me to give you wire colors and pin # when performing tests.

The harness is a custom job though. Won't that throw a wrench in that?

[:)bestgen4runner]

I don't think The vehicle harness has been changed?
Just the engine harness. His description sounds more like a ignition issue than engine harness.
We will see.

[OVRAROK]

First I will need some information so I can make test easy for you.
What year is your 4runner ?
What year is donor engine ?
This information will hopefully allow me to give you wire colors and pin # when performing tests.

87 4runner 22re/5spd , donor: 98 4runner 2.7/5spd 2wd

[OVRAROK]

for these test, is there anything I should be removing, just to help speed up my response time 

[helipilot77]

So Dave you should have 4 wires coming directly off your battery.
1 - black heavy gauge to starter
2 - red/blue to horn/hazard fuse and headlight circuit
3 - white heavy gauge to 80 amp main fusible link in engine bay fuse box that you took a picture of.
4 - a red/blue that branches of the other red/blue that feeds a 30 amp fusible link.

The #2 red/blue is a constant
The white goes to the AM1 ignition triggered circuits. (Accessories)
The #4 red/blue goes to the AM2 ingnition triggered circuits. (Engine ignition, fuel pump and EFI power)




Hope this helps.

[:)bestgen4runner]

I am at work today so likely there will be delays between responses on my part.
I wont abandon you as long as we are working together. Removeing the colm cover is the first thing that comes to mind.

More questions
Vehicle was a running driving truck by you prior to swap ?
Please list off all the inoperative items as clearly as you can.
please list all off the items that are functioning  when ignition switch is turned on.
any additional information you feel that might help me.

this will help me to isolate good testing locations. (less tests required that way)

[OVRAROK]

So Dave you should have 3 wires coming directly off your battery.
1 - black heavy gauge to starter
2 - red/blue to horn/hazard fuse and headlight circuit
3 - white heavy gauge to 80 amp main fusible link in engine bay fuse box that you took a picture of.

The red is a constant
The white goes to all ingnition triggered circuits.



Hope this helps.

Nate, I have all those hook up, except, the black going to starter, has been replaced by red heavier gauge cable.

[helipilot77]

Nate, I have all those hook up, except, the black going to starter, has been replaced by red heavier gauge cable.

I edited it. Do you have the one that feeds the AM2 circuits?

[OVRAROK]

I am at work today so likely there will be delays between responses on my part.
I wont abandon you as long as we are working together. Removeing the colm cover is the first thing that comes to mind.

More questions
Vehicle was a running driving truck by you prior to swap ?
Please list off all the inoperative items as clearly as you can.
please list all off the items that are functioning  when ignition switch is turned on.
any additional information you feel that might help me.

this will help me to isolate good testing locations. (less tests required that way)

#1, yes both vehicles where running and driving, 98 had broken drivers rack and pinion, so it didn't turn very well
#2 as far as what I think is inoperative, is fuel pump and key activated starter solenoid
#3 my first problem existed when I had no power to anything, I did find that the white wire, which powers my 40 amp fuse, in engine bay fuse box, was not putting any power to that 40 amp fuse( I think this has to do with problem). however, I jumped power to the outgoing side of 40 amp, once I did this, everything inside worked, first thing was my wiper going( must have bumped it), also 4wd light works( bumped that to, but that was part of harness, so it seem that wire is working in harness. at this point I tried turning key, in hopes of it starting, no deal. so I kept key in run position and jumped starter main power to starter solenoid, motor cranks but no fire, ive tried this multiple times, thinking maybe, just maybe theres no fuel in lines and filter. still nothing. when I do hit key to start, I hear a loud click coming from open circuit relay( I think has something to do with it also). but it worked fine before this swap. as far as wire harness, I did use injector resistor wire to power whatever is in harness, and I'm getting full volts at that location when turning key to the run position. there was a wire I connected to the green wire coming off open circuit relay, a white wire(from harness) to the white wire w/blue stripe, off original 22re ecu plug, a blue wire(off harness) to a green w/blue stripe off 22re ecu plug, and a green(harness wire) to a green w/white stripe off 22re ecu plug

[OVRAROK]

So Dave you should have 4 wires coming directly off your battery.
1 - black heavy gauge to starter
2 - red/blue to horn/hazard fuse and headlight circuit
3 - white heavy gauge to 80 amp main fusible link in engine bay fuse box that you took a picture of.
4 - a red/blue that branches of the other red/blue that feeds a 30 amp fusible link.

The #2 red/blue is a constant
The white goes to the AM1 ignition triggered circuits. (Accessories)
The #4 red/blue goes to the AM2 ingnition triggered circuits. (Engine ignition, fuel pump and EFI power)




Hope this helps.

yes, and 30 amp has power in-n-out

[OVRAROK]

another thing ive noticed, is when I go to start w/key, the clock goes out(illumination), but doesn't lose time

[helipilot77]

My clock does that too. Try removing the circuit open relay and jumping the black power wire to the blue fuel pump wire. This is what the relay should be doing. It should engage your fuel pump audibly. If this works you have a bad relay.

[OVRAROK]

My clock does that too. Try removing the circuit open relay and jumping the black power wire to the blue fuel pump wire. This is what the relay should be doing. It should engage your fuel pump audibly. If this works you have a bad relay.

so there is 2 black wire, 1 solid black, 1 black w/ red dash on it, using my multi-meter ive found out that there is no power from solid black, but I'm getting negative from black w/red dash

[OVRAROK]

My clock does that too. Try removing the circuit open relay and jumping the black power wire to the blue fuel pump wire. This is what the relay should be doing. It should engage your fuel pump audibly. If this works you have a bad relay.

hey nate, do you know where power from OCR starts at, I'm trying to locate start of wire so I can check continutity from start to OCR, as I have no power up to solid black wire

[helipilot77]

The power for the trigger wire comes from the ignition switch. The power that is switched through the relay to the pump comes from the EFI main relay which comes from the the EFI 15A fuse off of AM2.

[:)bestgen4runner]

efi main relay is located drivers kick panel
round, bottom, left
find it then we can continue

[OVRAROK]

efi main relay is located drivers kick panel
round, bottom, left
find it then we can continue

found it

[:)bestgen4runner]

Ok,
there should be 4 pins you can see when it is removed.
two with 12v (one will be constant 12v, and one will be switched by the ignition)
one should be a perfect ground
last one should have continuity to one of the pins from the circuit opening relay.
please verify 100% that this is the case.

The hunt is in on My OLD? padawan. LOL,

[OVRAROK]

Ok,
there should be 4 pins you can see when it is removed.
two with 12v (one will be constant 12v, and one will be switched by the ignition)
one should be a perfect ground
last one should have continuity to one of the pins from the circuit opening relay.
please verify 100% that this is the case.

The hunt is in on My OLD? padawan. LOL,

upper left is switched power, lower left is polarity, no constant 12v, using multi meter with positive in switched socket, both right side plug will give me volts at meter(ground)

[OVRAROK]

where does constant power come from, sounds like I need to test polarity from a to b, also as I stated earlier, I could not find any wires coming off 80 amp in engine bay, only white wire that feeds to positive on battery and 2 red wires on same side as white wire

[:)bestgen4runner]

SOME WHAT HARD TO UNDERSTAND BUT I THINK I FOLLOW YOU.
WE NEED ONE OF THEM TO BE 12V ALL THE TIME.
FORGIVE THE CAPITALS WORK COMPUTER THING.
15A EFI FUSE IS THE NEXT STEP
CAN YOU FIND IT

POLARITY??

[:)bestgen4runner]

I THINK YOU MEAN CONTINUITY

[OVRAROK]

SOME WHAT HARD TO UNDERSTAND BUT I THINK I FOLLOW YOU.
WE NEED ONE OF THEM TO BE 12V ALL THE TIME.
FORGIVE THE CAPITALS WORK COMPUTER THING.
15A EFI FUSE IS THE NEXT STEP
CAN YOU FIND IT

POLARITY??

think I found it lower left fuse above efi main

[:)bestgen4runner]

YES

[OVRAROK]

YES

its good, want me to check power there

[:)bestgen4runner]

YES PLEASE
WITH THE FUSE INSTALLED
BOTH SIDES OF FUSE

[OVRAROK]

YES PLEASE
WITH THE FUSE INSTALLED
BOTH SIDES OF FUSE

its switched power, with key on. and both sides have power, with fuse in, first time I even noticed metal on fuse to do just this