Jrock's New Build

[Dingman.]

Tps or afm/maf?


Id check those.

[nisota]

Looking forward to reading more about it. lookin good so far.

[jrock]

New hardware,

[Slolyfe]

your quick. makes me motivated

[cencalwheeler]

Damn you move fast. looks good.

[jrock]

Ive accumulated things so thats been a plus. I want to do more but funds are spread out. Ill probably end up with it looking very similar to this for MCR. Id like a floor in the back with a bench seat for more passengers, a different muffler, and possibly a different steering assembly (I have a tilting assembly). It needs a rear driveshaft but I want to shorten the wheelbase so im not putting money into anything. Ill build one.

What I need to figure out is a stumble/loss of power between 750-1500rpm. I havent looked at anything yet but tomorrow I will be troubleshooting.

First drive,



I will need to add rear bump stops,

[Slolyfe]

Dude is looking good. I cant believe your turn around time.

One thing if you have time is remount those rear shocks vertical(looks like plenty of options). I moved mine and it is night and day difference. You will get a lot more out of those shocks. Just my 2 cents if you have time. hahaha

[jrock]

I think the rear has 4" maybe 5" of up travel. The shock bottoms out when the spring is almost 1" negative. I will look into moving these shocks vertical, I have the room above to do it but I'll need to re-design the upper hoop bar. Also, the rear sits about an 1" too high so I will be cutting and re-doing the shackle hangers but I need to decide if I am going to move the rear axle forward. I think I can move it 4" forward to put me at 111" WB again.

Other issue im not getting over is what to do with the wiring. It works enough to drive right now except for the reverse lights, turn signals and wipers. Currently the entire truck has the T100s wiring which works but is not for this body style. I would really like to put my tilt steering wheel in which would involve rewiring the column from the T100 back to a 85PU. I would like to put the climate controls back in. This leads me to think i want to put the 85PU wiring back in for the body, lights and climate controls. Leaving the T100 engine harness, ECU and instruments. I would probably do this after MRC, just to avoid issues.

Im thinking out loud but if there are recommendations, speak

[cencalwheeler]

Are those rear shocks adjustable? Wondering what made you go with remote reservoir shocks. I like the rubber stops.

[fordh8r]

Are you trailering this thing to MCR? If so, I think I would leave the wiring alone and address only what isn't working and finish up on the bigger parts of the project to get it there.

[jrock]

Are you trailering this thing to MCR? If so, I think I would leave the wiring alone and address only what isn't working and finish up on the bigger parts of the project to get it there.

Bingo! This is getting trailered so that's my plan. I really dont want to deal with wiring on the trail.

Are those rear shocks adjustable? Wondering what made you go with remote reservoir shocks. I like the rubber stops.

They are adjustable/tunable. They are Fox 2.0 res. I picked them up a few years ago with the plan of running them in the rear after I picked up a matching set for the front. Well I put them in anyway, without the fronts, so I could get a feel for them. I will eventually try re-valving them for the best performance I can get.  After reading a bit on remote res, they are the ONLY way to go. Just like the bumps up front. They are all for speed 

[cencalwheeler]

Thanks for the info. I currently run the 5150 bilsteins and they bottom out because I tend to run a little fast on the trail. looks good.

[jrock]

Thanks for the info. I currently run the 5150 bilsteins and they bottom out because I tend to run a little fast on the trail. looks good.

I was running 5150s front and rear. They work good but can't handle the larger bumps and whoops. I was bottoming out in the front which is why I have the air bumps. Next step, should have been first but oh well, is res shocks in front.

Figured I'd practice with wiring


Today I de-stroked my bumps. Now 2" bumps. I noticed the bumps are valved differently. One has more valves on the rebound. I'll figure that out later :p

[cencalwheeler]

I like the front bump stops. I use the ones from trail gear and it feels like they are made from steel when I hit them. I even drilled them out a little but no difference. looks like I will go your route soon and try them.

[lilbuddy]

Damn you really have been doin work. Good job.

Glad to see that truck went to a good home!

Oh and on the 3rz topic, mine did the same thing. I'm pretty sure all I did was clean the maf and it made a huge difference but there's still a slight dead spot.

[jrock]

I like the front bump stops. I use the ones from trail gear and it feels like they are made from steel when I hit them. I even drilled them out a little but no difference. looks like I will go your route soon and try them.

If you want to try a slightly cheaper route, use Poly Performance large bumps. The ones with the big holes

Damn you really have been doin work. Good job.

Glad to see that truck went to a good home!

Oh and on the 3rz topic, mine did the same thing. I'm pretty sure all I did was clean the maf and it made a huge difference but there's still a slight dead spot.

I could not have done it without your advise. Thank you again.

Are you running a 22re fuel pump or something else?

[lilbuddy]

No problem!

I have the stock 22re fuel tank and pump still in it. It never was such a big dead spot that it really bothered me so I didn't look into it really. I did notice once I changed the fuel filter it had way more power also but that should be expected when you have restricted fuel flow. Your idea of the stock pump vs. 3rz pump sounds legit. I wonder who else has experienced this...

[brockbuilt85]

wow!

[jrock]

wow!

Bam!

[jrock]

Air bumps charged to 125psi. Now to install

[fordh8r]

You need to hook up permanent air hoses to those air bumps and have a valve in the cab so you can adjust them on the fly with an OBA system. 8)

[jrock]

You need to hook up permanent air hoses to those air bumps and have a valve in the cab so you can adjust them on the fly with an OBA system. 8)

Good plan. I'll get on it And once I have all res shocks I can hop them up too

[fordh8r]

That's what I'm talking about! Everything fully adjustable from the driver's seat without having to undo your seatbelt.

[jrock]

It would be sweet to stiffen the shocks for camping gear and then soften them for the trail. Ideas....

[fordh8r]

I've been wanting to do that with mine but I can't seem to find the spec on the range of air pressure the kit operates on.

[jrock]

Hmmm, my Foxs' are rated up to 200psi so I'd imagine 125-200psi would be a good range.

[22REBABE]

Now that's a rock crawler! Way cool 

[fordh8r]

I forgot you had reservoir shocks now. I was talking about the kit to convert the RS9000 shocks.

[jrock]

I forgot you had reservoir shocks now. I was talking about the kit to convert the RS9000 shocks.

Im moving up in the world.... OK, maybe not, I got lucky 

Now that's a rock crawler! Way cool 

Thats what I thought  I still need to find some rocks and try it out 

[jrock]

So what ive been doing these last few nights is rewiring the t100 harness to work with a 85 steering column. They're a lot alike except on how they control turn signals and the number of pins they have. T100 has more pins but uses less wires when switched over to the 85 column.

And I have been trying to build a complete tilt wheel steering column from two other columns. I hit a wall without a steering wheel puller