Jrock's New Build

[brockbuilt85]

Lookin sweet, nice run pics!

[THK Matt]

These are posts from the Royal Purple Facebook Page

Royal Purple Inc.
December 7, 2012

A repost from earlier regarding a facebooker who was bashing on Royal Purple and stating Amsoil was better. We wanted you to still have access to the information.

Let's start with any synthetic motor oil that you choose will benefit you vehicle better than conventional motor oil whether you choose Royal Purple, Mobil 1, or Amsoil, but Royal Purple can offer you something a little more.

Amsoil doesn't have any 3rd party independent studies done that show their product out performs ours and the ones they do claim are conducted by dealers or their own labs. Amsoil's test are conducted under their supervision with their people running the test, but the lab sounds like an independent lab in the way it is presented. A key example of this is the 4 ball wear test.

The ASTM D4172 Test (4 ball wear test) is NOT an accepted engine oil test nor indicative of actual field wear performance for engine oils. Per the ASTM 'Significance of Use description", the ASTM declares that there is no correlation between oils of different formulas or to actual field wear data. This test was designed to quickly compare 'batch to batch' quality of the exact same formula of oil during production.

Amsoil also has a bad habit of claiming ASTM, API acceptance and/or test protocol and then modifying the test in-house. The ASTM D4172 should run at 1200 rpm and 75 C. Amsoil ran it at 1800 rpm and 150 C. At that point, it becomes an 'Amsoil' in-house test, not an ASTM repeatable test. Why did they modify the test? To make their oils 'look' better? Amsoil has taken this test and made it a big selling point and consumers have no idea what the test was intended for. Amsoil also has a bad habit of claiming ASTM or API acceptance or test protocol and then modifying the test in-house. They also do not run the ASTM Timken OK Load test - the RP oils would score first in this test having 300-400% better performance than the others.

Amsoil's typical miss-interpretation of results can even be found in their own reports. They test regarding film strength si not about film strength but is about wear.

They have even shown where Royal Purple has the highest rating for wear protection in the FZG test and highest rating for oxidation protection, but yet they score Royal Purple the worst in a 'wear test'. Why, How? Amsoil will not report on Royal Purple's Oxidation resistance in a TFOUT test. WHY, because Royal Purple will actual tests out to 1300 minutes and is 2 ½ times better than theirs! They arbitrarily stopped the test at 500 minutes. We also had some of the best results in the cleanliness results for keeping your engine free of deposits and corrosion and zero foaming yet they claim we failed a rust protection test? Confusing - hard to judge as they do not share the actual coupon of the metal - just report a failure and they also will not state how many coupons they ran with each oil - or did they run the test until they got a 'failing' one and reported it?

Why does Amsoil have it out for Royal Purple? How Could someone mess up these results? EASY, at the end of all of the studies you will usually one or both of the following names

Dave Leitten- AMSOIL Laboratory Director and Kevin Dinwiddie - AMSOIL Drivetrain Specialist

They work for Amsoil and every test run and distributed that Amsoil was ranked number 1 is done internally. It does appear there was no favoritism to their company? Not really

Just thought we would clear some of the air.

We still refer back that Amsoil makes a great product, but Royal Purple can and does things better and different than they do.

Have a nice day.


Royal Purple Inc.
December 6, 2012

FAQ regarding ZDDP - WHAT's the run down???

There have been some questions regarding ZDDP or zinc phosphorus, so hopefully we can help put some of these rumors to rest.

All motor oils contain some form of zinc and phosphorus or ZDDP. This is the anti-wear compound in ALL engine oils whether it is API licensed, High Mileage, Racing, etc. There has been false statements made that the new API SM & API SN oil, also known as warranty approved, do not contain these additives, but this is not the case. There has been a reduction in these additives, but not an elimination. The EPA and API have restricted the total phosphorus levels or maximum to 800 ppm (800 ppm for ILSAC GF-4 and GF-5, API SM and SN), as well as a minimum level (600 ppm is required). There is no restriction on the amount of zinc (Zn) that can be in an oil, but since Zn is typically only found in the anti-wear package, it has also been reduced due to its relationship with the amount of phosphorus.

So many consumers have started adding the ZDDP additives to their oils. Avoid playing chemist with your engine oils – this goes for all types of oil additives that are marketed to increase protection and/or performance. There are different forms of Zn and P containing anti-wear additives and they have varying levels of effectiveness. So purchasing the ZDDP additives does not mean your engine is safe. The additives may not react the way they are intended. Also, there is no guarantee the additive is equally distributed throughout the oil it is being added to. This means there will be high/low to even no levels throughout the engine. This also voids the oil company's product liability warranty because it is no longer their formulation but YOURS.

Royal Purple has a mineral oil for Break In (Break-In Oil) for customers wanting higher levels of protection during break in, as well as HPS for those customers seeking higher levels of ZDDP afterwards. Royal Purple SAE oils do contain the proper levels of anti-wear to protect customer's warranty, daily driven, etc engines, but if the vehicle is modified, out of warranty, or is a performance vehicle, Royal Purple does recommend HPS or XPR

[rubiconrunnerneville]

I haven't resolved this issue yet thou I should update what Ive found. The scanner says I have a bad O2, presumably the one before the cat. I have noticed that the stumble goes away after the engine has been running for a while and is at temperature. I thing the stumble may be worse after I have disconnected the battery, when I store the truck. I will be replacing the #1 O2 soon.

As for the fuel pump, Ive been told by a mechanic, the pressures are close enough that their is no problem. The pressure regulator at the fuel rail is set lower than this. Anyway, I have the T100 3rz fuel pump and will probably swap it in and look for any changes. I believe there would be a problem in the high rpms if the pressures were too low, and I have seen no issue with the high rpms

the low pressures will cause you to run lean then your o2 will see this lean and try to richen it up putting more stress on your low pressure fuel pump making it over work to dump the same amount of fuel in as the proper pump would. your problem would result in a lean o2 sensor code and your long term will also show an over lean reading. too lean will cause the ecu to detune the motor to try and compensate for the lean and hot and you will feel power lose in higher rpms when fuel is in high demand and high pressure. just my  from over 12 years of being an ASE certified tech.

[jrock]

Good to know. I have a T100 pump but I haven't had time to swap it in. I haven't noticed a loss of power in the hight end and I have driven it hard in every situation. It's revving out like nothings wrong, climbs hills like a champ, accelerates great, it only sputters when cold and only at low RPMs. I still love this engine.

[rubiconrunnerneville]

my 22re did the same thing after it was done being built the bigger injectors were running it too lean with the stock pump. at the time I was working at a smog and repair shop so I put it on the smog dyno and had a couple of scopes hooked up and saw the fuel pressure hit max(38psi) at idle and back down(30psi) causing a stumble when cold and would do the same on heavy acceleration I could do hills fine and rip through mud fine just couldn't mash on the gas hard found an inline adjustable fuel pump and put that in and the stumbling went away my high side pressure is at 49psi instead of 38psi and no I dont have a stock pressure regulator on the fuel rail it self.its street legal in nor cal through a loop hole. 

[jrock]

Videos, YouTube;
Outer Limits 1

Outer Limits 2

Outer Limits 3

[hi on lux]

you in-boarded your rear springs... you didn't on the fronts? or did I just missed reading it?

[jrock]

Inboarded the rears to the same width as the fronts.

[hi on lux]

I see. your truck 's great btw.

[86yoter]

i like inboarded rears. rig looks sick. playing in the snow is always fun.

[jrock]

This thing works good   Thank you.

[Slolyfe]

Your begging for a front axle. Nice air!

[daniresch]

Your begging for a front axle. Nice air!

Seriously! Awesome picture though!!

[jrock]

Haha, thanks. I still can not believe these axle housings hold up this well. 27 years old and it's been beat on by me for 5 years, no bending at all. But it's  time start building something better. I'm working towards an FJ80 front axle now.

[Slolyfe]

Talk to Steve. Pretty sure he is stepping up to a 9 inch.

[Slolyfe]

Talk to Steve. Pretty sure he is stepping up to a 9 inch.

[jrock]

There has been a terrible smell of burning gear oil and here's the culprit. Crawl box lower needle bearing.

[Goldrush]

Ive seen worse than that Jerome! we'll get it taken care of for you!

[jrock]

Zach, thank you for the advice and the help. Way to go MC for the terrific help.

Here's the adapter damage,

[Dingman.]

There has been a terrible smell of burning gear oil and here's the culprit. Crawl box lower needle bearing.

Was that the only reason you pulled your cases because of how it smelt?  or was there some strange noises as well?

[jrock]

Smell. It was terrible, there was obviously something wrong. I thought it was a burnt bearing. I had no idea it was a totaled bearing.

I'm also tearing open my trans due to the issue of a possible bad bearing also. The symptom, with the trans in neutral, the tcases still spin. No power to them but it causes them to grind when I shift in and out while stopped. I assume there is a bad pocket bearing on the main shaft. Easy fix. Reduces my annoyance of things on the trail

[NorCalPR]

My Tacoma does that too I wouldnt worry about it. With the friction of oil it will still spin it

[jrock]

I hate it but the internals don't show anything that could be fixed. As far as I can see.

[NorCalPR]

It's normal, every vehicle will do it

The heavier the oil, the more pronounced

[jrock]

Syn 75w-90? And my last W56 didn't do it. But I'll learn to deal with it, I'm not rebuilding the trans.

[jrock]

So, thanks to Marlin Crawler and Goldrush, I was able to send back my duals adapter, MC07, for re-machining and replacement of both bearings. Sweet! I love it.

Things are going back on now and I'm trying to re-configure the crossmember so it's less of a hangup. But it's a pain because I don't want to cut out the entire floor to make it all fit. I also don't have a rotated adapter so a flat belly would be a pain.

Gotta love countertop workspace.

[jrock]

[jrock]

[Jokeass-Wheelers]

  nice tube work looks good

[jrock]

nice tube work looks good

Thank you, it really really finishes out the cage. Adds a better body line and will become my rear fenders.