Matts 85runna Build

Started by -Matt-, April 02, 2008, 08:54:03 PM

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-Matt-

wow thats way sick. when i searched i came up with something similar to that which looked like a toy axle but with dana knuckles, wasnt quite sure but not i know. thats pretty cool he only lost less than an inch of clearance.. correct me if im wrong but those don't look full width..? and how easy are they to get and are they decently easy/reasonable price to build

slabcs

Well it's a totally custom thing, so when you make it you can make it however you want.  He went with 66" WMS.  Currie housing, Detroit, 5.29's, custom length shafts, etc.  Final price came in at just under $3,000.
Relentless

yota_krawler

Tow Rig: 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab: lift and tires.
Wheeler: 1985 Toyota 4runner Semi Built: project http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=89681.msg1013539#msg1013539

lilbuddy

Quote from: Sluice Box Hero on January 06, 2009, 05:00:10 PM
if i were going to build an axle fully it would not be a D60, think blinger like a 609 or something, its just the D60/14Bolt is cheap.

Howcome you totally said something different when we went to get that black tacoma i got?
RIP Kyota.... you are the man

GET IT!!!

Sluice Box Hero

im saying if i had an unlimited budget i would build something $$$$.  actually it would probably be a dynatrac D70 front. . . .way bling
"You know that feeling right after you take a huge dump? . . . . Awesome"
-Cartman

-Matt-

Quote from: slabcs on January 06, 2009, 05:21:21 PM
Well it's a totally custom thing, so when you make it you can make it however you want.  He went with 66" WMS.  Currie housing, Detroit, 5.29's, custom length shafts, etc.  Final price came in at just under $3,000.
holly :pokinit: thats quit a bit for that price id make sure i wouldnt have to ever work on it on the trail. thats a lot of money but if you do it in steps i dont think it would be bad at all did he do it all himself of did he pay a professional to re cut it.

Sluice Box Hero

but honestly for 3k you could build something much stronger with good ground clearance (if thats an issue) you could build a D70U front. for the same amount.  

D70U rear $200
D60 C's and outters $500
Tubes $200
Gears $300
Locker $500
Misc $200
Shafts (yukon) and Spicer Joints $700
High Steer $400

thats $3000 and in my opinion would be stronger than a 9" center.

of even stonger would be to shave a stock D60

D60 Front $800
Shave Free
Gears $300
Locker $500
Shafts and Joints $700
High Steer $400

$2700
"You know that feeling right after you take a huge dump? . . . . Awesome"
-Cartman

slabcs

Callen, that axle wouldn't have the clearance a 609 has.

He got a donor D60 for stupid cheap from a junkyard.  Like 115 bucks, the guy didn't know what he had.  He took it to PolyPerformance for the machine work but everything else he did himself.
Relentless

yota_krawler

Tow Rig: 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab: lift and tires.
Wheeler: 1985 Toyota 4runner Semi Built: project http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=89681.msg1013539#msg1013539

IronClad

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-Matt-

Quote from: Sluice Box Hero on January 06, 2009, 05:50:48 PM
but honestly for 3k you could build something much stronger with good ground clearance (if thats an issue) you could build a D70U front. for the same amount.  

D70U rear $200
D60 C's and outters $500
Tubes $200
Gears $300
Locker $500
Misc $200
Shafts (yukon) and Spicer Joints $700
High Steer $400

thats $3000 and in my opinion would be stronger than a 9" center.

of even stonger would be to shave a stock D60

D60 Front $800
Shave Free
Gears $300
Locker $500
Shafts and Joints $700
High Steer $400

$2700
aren't the dynotracts one of the best dana axles made? and aren't they on newer trucks...? what about mogs i know they are street legal but would they even be probable/drivable on a dd.. or would a d60/70 or 609 be better? also what do you mean by Tubes $200

Sluice Box Hero

you dont want to dent that 9" housing. . . .theyre kinda thin without some gaurd
"You know that feeling right after you take a huge dump? . . . . Awesome"
-Cartman

Sluice Box Hero

www.dynatrac.com

they are sick.

as for tubes, when you turn a rear axle into a front you can only cut one axle tube down to the short side, for the other you have to remove the stock tube and press in a new one, 3" .5" wall DOM is not cheap, 3' of that stuff could cost you at least $200

as for Mogs.  they are cool, but they are all drivers drop, and the pinion is huge, you would either have to sky your ride, or pretty much move the entire engine up and over a foot
"You know that feeling right after you take a huge dump? . . . . Awesome"
-Cartman

slabcs

What about getting a 609 housing from Diamond or Spidertrax?  Definitely some money there, but high clearance and strong.

Also I called you Colby instead of Callen earlier, oops.
Relentless

-Matt-

Quote from: Sluice Box Hero on January 06, 2009, 06:06:10 PM
www.dynatrac.com

they are sick.

as for tubes, when you turn a rear axle into a front you can only cut one axle tube down to the short side, for the other you have to remove the stock tube and press in a new one, 3" .5" wall DOM is not cheap, 3' of that stuff could cost you at least $200

as for Mogs.  they are cool, but they are all drivers drop, and the pinion is huge, you would either have to sky your ride, or pretty much move the entire engine up and over a foot
that's sick, i had no idea that they made the fronts form the rears. do they jsut use d60 knuckles,? do you know off hand how much wider the spring perches on those than a standard toy axle? and i didnt know that about mogs. that's a bummer, i guess aj is in for a hell of a time then couse mogs are his dream.

-Matt-

Quote from: slabcs on January 06, 2009, 06:16:02 PM
What about getting a 609 housing from Diamond or Spidertrax?  Definitely some money there, but high clearance and strong.

Also I called you Colby instead of Callen earlier, oops.
those prices arent all that bad in my opinion 2K for all new beefy stuff but then its a matter of getting a diff axles and highsteer which is gonna be a lottt more

Sluice Box Hero

most people dont run leafs when they build a blingin axle, but if you were set on leafs im sure they could make it any width you wanted haha.
"You know that feeling right after you take a huge dump? . . . . Awesome"
-Cartman

-Matt-

Quote from: Sluice Box Hero on January 06, 2009, 07:12:06 PM
most people dont run leafs when they build a blingin axle, but if you were set on leafs im sure they could make it any width you wanted haha.
ya thats true i just figure that i would want to get axles first then link it but that would be kinda pointless since i would have to change the hangers and perches, then to later rip it apart for links. are you so stoked on your coils that you wish you did it a while ago or would you have still ran your leaf springs for as long as you did?

Sluice Box Hero

ha, if i were to do it all over again, i would not even set it up on leafs ever.  ive spent so much money uselessly over the last few years doing and redoing so much :pokinit: on that truck that i now i know what not to do.

basically i would go links straight away, coilovers all the way around (learned on colbys truck that air shocks are just too hard to tune), dual 23 spline ultimates, turbo tranny, stock 22re ( i can break just about anything with 100hp, i dont need 500).  keep the cab sealed and mostly stock inside because sitting in a hacked up piece of :pokinit: sucks in the winter, and sucks just as bad in the summer, the narrow bed idea is cool, but you lose too much space, im thinking about getting a stocker back on there and just bobing it, also the flatbelly is tits, but the FROR crossmember is not the best route, but its cheap.  also, poly motor mounts can lick my sack, im over the vibration (looking for rubber ones currently).  cutting the front off truck is a def plus, i just need to make it look stock again, not tough, just time, and the biggest one. . . . .keep it registered, insured, smog legal. . . . .which mine is not, and its way out of registration date, so im fucked, only option is to gree sticker it.  and build a cage, even if its interior, because you never know when youre going to go over.  2 years ago i saw a pickup go over on the bypass above the box, he way 2 bushes and 5 feet from rolling the rest of the way into the box 30ft below, he didnt have a cage and the cab basically went flat with the doors.
"You know that feeling right after you take a huge dump? . . . . Awesome"
-Cartman

Doof

Quote from: Sluice Box Hero on January 06, 2009, 07:36:12 PM
..... 2 years ago i saw a pickup go over on the bypass above the box, he way 2 bushes and 5 feet from rolling the rest of the way into the box 30ft below, he didnt have a cage and the cab basically went flat with the doors.

he actually rolled off or came close?

Sluice Box Hero

he rolled over at the top, another half a roll and he would have went all the way to the bottom
"You know that feeling right after you take a huge dump? . . . . Awesome"
-Cartman

kiyul4130

Quote from: ClownMan on January 06, 2009, 06:02:44 PM
aren't the dynotracts one of the best dana axles made? and aren't they on newer trucks...? what about mogs i know they are street legal but would they even be probable/drivable on a dd.. or would a d60/70 or 609 be better? also what do you mean by Tubes $200

mogs are cool. they have deep gears so your going to need to run a big tire. having a 7-1 gear ratio on a 37-40 just is to much. youd want at least a 42. there also much more of a pain to make work under your rig. if it was easy youd see more people DD them. look at kevins rig he moved the motor up 5" to keep his truck slammed which is awesome, (lowest truck out there that i know of) but only has 3" of up travel. as far as a DD the best thing you can do is 1 tons. there a lot easier to fit an you can keep your truck low. its also not hard to setup your truck to have 4-5" of up travel and have it road worthy on a linked suspension. i plan on a 3 link front i think with the hydro assist but a chopped/tubed frame forward similar or the same as callens.
-kiyul-
92 1 ton ex cab, marlin dual ultimates, 42 iroks, hydro assist, flat bellied, linked and more...
ECV 7-11

KYOTA FOREVER

kiyul4130

Quote from: Sluice Box Hero on January 06, 2009, 07:36:12 PM
ha, if i were to do it all over again, i would not even set it up on leafs ever.  ive spent so much money uselessly over the last few years doing and redoing so much :pokinit: on that truck that i now i know what not to do.

wrong. you did on a 44 like i did a toy axle, not leaf suspension. i think everyone says "if they could do it over again they would do it this way". if everyone was to do that it would take 6 years + to build a rig. most people (normally) dont have the money to do it right the first time. i wish i would have started with a 60, but thats bank and its ok. ive had a :pokinit: ton of fun up to this point now and many memorable trips, broken or not. id rather just wheel with my friends. upgrading as i go is all i/we can do.
-kiyul-
92 1 ton ex cab, marlin dual ultimates, 42 iroks, hydro assist, flat bellied, linked and more...
ECV 7-11

KYOTA FOREVER

Doof

hey kiyul do you have any pics of kevins truck?

ive only seen it once at night at the con when he OWNED soup bowl, and the next morning when he was working on his links.... but pics or video?

kiyul4130

ill show you later  :psss:
-kiyul-
92 1 ton ex cab, marlin dual ultimates, 42 iroks, hydro assist, flat bellied, linked and more...
ECV 7-11

KYOTA FOREVER

-Matt-

ya i definitely agree with the whole modding the truck here and there. as much as i think everyone would love to have a fully build rig right off the bat, it totally screw you over with not knowing :pokinit:..and not having the experience of owning other weaker more traditional stuff. before i bought my truck i was contemplating on buying a partially built rig couse they are pretty much the same price as a stocker. thought i didnt get the best deal and payed to much for my truck im still stoked i went that rout couse its done me well so far and iv learned to much just from doing what iv done to it so far. spent a lot more money that way but im my opinion knowledge is more important than money when it comes to most everything. i definitely feel like i have experienced enough.been wheeling enough to be able to start putting some real money into my truck once i start working again.

yota_krawler

Tow Rig: 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab: lift and tires.
Wheeler: 1985 Toyota 4runner Semi Built: project http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=89681.msg1013539#msg1013539

-Matt-

Quote from: Yota_Krawler on January 07, 2009, 05:58:04 PM
I thought you wanted a taco?
what do you mean? i never wanted a taco until i saw them in action which was way after i started wheelin. and yet id love a taco but only for the engine. dont get me wrong everything else is cool about them but i think the body styles of the original toyotas are just as good..id just like to have more power.

Doof

Quote from: ClownMan on January 07, 2009, 03:58:48 PM
ya i definitely agree with the whole modding the truck here and there. as much as i think everyone would love to have a fully build rig right off the bat, it totally screw you over with not knowing :pokinit:..and not having the experience of owning other weaker more traditional stuff. before i bought my truck i was contemplating on buying a partially built rig couse they are pretty much the same price as a stocker. thought i didnt get the best deal and payed to much for my truck im still stoked i went that rout couse its done me well so far and iv learned to much just from doing what iv done to it so far. spent a lot more money that way but im my opinion knowledge is more important than money when it comes to most everything. i definitely feel like i have experienced enough.been wheeling enough to be able to start putting some real money into my truck once i start working again.


that pretty much sums it up..... enough blood and welding wire has been put into these turds that the tit's upgrades can be worthy

pumkin toy

that axle kicks  :moon:
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