My 88 pickup is back in buisness

[twistedtoy92]

yes that damn bolt!!! i flocked it up on my 89 and a new replacement bolt is $14, and that was 3 years ago!!!!! sneaky lil japs!!!

[Yota4life]

As of now the motor is torn apart and the head it off. Visually the valves looked good but it must be a valve seat that was leaking on the exhaust side i hope. If its not that then i have no freaken clue what was making that noise. Maybe a valve guide or a valve shaft was bent. Gotta look into that some more.
Timing chain is in top notch condition as well as everything else on the top end which was expected with a re-man with only 18k on it. Rockers looked really good and same with the cam. Im stumped.

While everything on the driverside of the engine bay is out i cut off the old frame plates for the steering box and moved it as far foward as i could. Still working on the plates for the frame but got the front axle moved forward  1.25". Just redrilled the spring perch and ubolt plate. Pics when i finish it.

[Yota4life]

Tonight i was taking a close look at the bottom of the head and i noticed a couple things. Remember this is the first time i ever pulled a motor apart but look what i found.

I noticed something in one of the ports, hmm... so i pulled it out.


I have no idea how that got in there unless its supposed to be there. but possibly what caused the noise!?!? I'm not really satisfied yet because it dosent seem like enough to make that loud noise. I noticed a little dent under the #2 cylinder and a little chip. Looks like something was in there and it smashed it into the head. 




Got my injectors back in the mail and they were all really clean to start with but they all improved from the cleaning. I guess there just super clean because i only run good (chevron) gas all the time.

[Ramrod]

how do the cylinders look?

[Yota4life]

The cylinders looked good and the tops of the pistons look good just have carbon buildup. Do the valve seats have to be done by a machine shop? How can i test them for any leakage....

[inmyownsummerami]

The cylinders looked good and the tops of the pistons look good just have carbon buildup. Do the valve seats have to be done by a machine shop? How can i test them for any leakage....

Get some valve lapping compound, and lap the valves to their seats, then install the valves, springs, and retainers and pour gas, solvent, or what ever you have into the runners and see if any leaks past the valves/seats.

[Duffil]

Get some valve lapping compound, and lap the valves to their seats, then install the valves, springs, and retainers and pour gas, solvent, or what ever you have into the runners and see if any leaks past the valves/seats.

when you are at the auto parts store, you should be able to find a valve lapping tool.  It's a plastic shaft with a suction cup on each end. It'll make the job a ton easier, IMO.  When you lap them in, you'll see a shiny spot appear on the valve and on the valve seat...you should get about at least 1/16" band all the way around the valve.  make sure you clean the head pretty good when you are done to get all the grit outta there.

basically, you put compound around the edge of the valve, slide it into the guide, and twist it back and forth to lap it in...in case you didn't know.

[Hyena]

You might need to rent a spring compressor tool to take out the valves.

[Duffil]

You might need to rent a spring compressor tool to take out the valves.

forgot about that.

[inmyownsummerami]

You might need to rent a spring compressor tool to take out the valves.

Socket and a hammer. But then you gotta find a way to get 'em back in

[Yota4life]

Ok good thanks this is all good info to know. So basically the compound will make a new seal on the valve and the tool is what pulls the compound out as you do it. Right? How long do you need to lap  each valve?

Tomorrow i will pour some gas down them and see if any of the exhaust valves leak. Then if they do i will go from there and lap them.  If any one has any tips on the head gasket portion let me know. I know the best to get is OEM so i will be making a trip to Toyota soon and i got a brand new torque wrench to properly torque the head.

[Duffil]

Ok good thanks this is all good info to know. So basically the compound will make a new seal on the valve and the tool is what pulls the compound out as you do it. Right? How long do you need to lap  each valve?

as long as it takes.

[inmyownsummerami]

So basically the compound will make a new seal on the valve and the tool is what pulls the compound out as you do it. Right? How long do you need to lap  each valve?

Tomorrow i will pour some gas down them and see if any of the exhaust valves leak. Then if they do i will go from there and lap them.  If any one has any tips on the head gasket portion let me know. I know the best to get is OEM so i will be making a trip to Toyota soon and i got a brand new torque wrench to properly torque the head.

I say lap them no matter what. Doesn't take long to do when you have the head off.
To lap valves, you put the lapping compound(abrasive paste) onto the valve margin(sealing surface), and drop the valve into its seat(keep them in the same hole they came from). The lapping tool is just a stick with a suction cup on the end. Stick the tool the the valve head, and spin it back and forth between you hands while putting slight down pressure on it like you are trying to start a fire with a stick. When your hands get to the bottom of the tool lift the valve out slightly, turn 90* and repeat. Keep at it until you have a uniform ring on the seat and valve. Usually only takes a minute or so per valve.

[Yota4life]

I say lap them no matter what. Doesn't take long to do when you have the head off.
To lap valves, you put the lapping compound(abrasive paste) onto the valve margin(sealing surface), and drop the valve into its seat(keep them in the same hole they came from). The lapping tool is just a stick with a suction cup on the end. Stick the tool the the valve head, and spin it back and forth between you hands while putting slight down pressure on it like you are trying to start a fire with a stick. When your hands get to the bottom of the tool lift the valve out slightly, turn 90* and repeat. Keep at it until you have a uniform ring on the seat and valve. Usually only takes a minute or so per valve.

Got it. Thanks dane.

[Duffil]

I say lap them no matter what. Doesn't take long to do when you have the head off.
To lap valves, you put the lapping compound(abrasive paste) onto the valve margin(sealing surface), and drop the valve into its seat(keep them in the same hole they came from). The lapping tool is just a stick with a suction cup on the end. Stick the tool the the valve head, and spin it back and forth between you hands while putting slight down pressure on it like you are trying to start a fire with a stick. When your hands get to the bottom of the tool lift the valve out slightly, turn 90* and repeat. Keep at it until you have a uniform ring on the seat and valve. Usually only takes a minute or so per valve.

good job on that. I was last night and couldn't get all that out.

[Yota4life]

 Got the frame plated. Had to cut out some of the body mount to get the box all the way forward. Both sides of the frame was bent/tweaked from before i had hydro and ripped the steering box off 2 times so it was also a needed repair. Been a while sense i have done any fab on the rig 
Removed the old plate.



Plates i made


Clamped


Welded up



Inside plate


Bent up a plate and welded over the upper sleeve just in case.


Axle moved 1.25" and my overall WB measures a tad under 106"


You can see in this pic where the motor mount dented itself from hitting the bolt. The fror crossmember flexes and the engine rocks forward at leased an inch. When removing the radiator i noticed the fan actually hit the radiator 1 time and bent over the fins and im just lucky that it didnt rip through it when i was on the trail! I have a fix for this. The stock mounts are going.



Pulled off the leaky master cylinder and booster. Looked like something was growing in there    Have a new 1"bore MC from marlin and a T100 dual diaphragm booster thats going in tomarrow with a willwood pro. valve. Rear disks coming soon



Making a mess


Some girl i found in my room 

[Hyena]

uho, she's not going to like that!

[inmyownsummerami]

You're gonna be in sooo much trouble

[lilbuddy]

Looks good 

Thats something I still need to do. Need to move my box forward and pate the frame and I wanna move my axle forward. I need to put my hydro assist on too, I forgot I even had the lines and the ram already.

[Yota4life]

I love getting in trouble!

My hydro works awsome i would never go back without it. Just make sure you run a cooler and make your reservoir bigger.

[Yota4life]

Well i pulled the exhaust valves and they all are pitted on the inside where they seal. Is that normal for a valve with under 20K? There supposed to be new valves.... One of the rear valves looked warped also. I put them back on and poured gas into the exhaust ports and they all leaked and the rear 2 leaked badly. I bought the lapping compound and tool but i think im going to either buy a StreetRV head from engnbldr or take it to a head shop. Not sure yet

[Hyena]

well thats good news! 

[Yota4life]

Ya im never buying a re-man engine again. Im pretty sure all the valves were too tight, they always were hella loud. Im pretty sure the owner at CT eng. knew what was wrong but didnt want to fix it.

[Austin W]

nice welds 

[Yota4life]

Thanks, its all i do at work

[Yota4life]

Well i just ordered the StreetRV head and 268c Torquer cam shaft from engnbldr today. Got some LC motor mounts in the mail. Got all my head gaskets from toyota (expensive) but worth it in the long run. Injectors are cleaned and ready with all new seals from winch hunter. Hopefully i get the head in the mail before next friday so i can spend my 5 day weekend putting it all back together and getting it running! 

Last weekend put in a T100 dual diagram booster on with the new 1" MC and willwood manual proportioning valve and got all the lines hooked up. Iv read this set up is super nice with rear disks and the larger calipers in front.

Booster comparison


On and done.



I had to extend the steering shaft 2 inches to reach the box. Fit 3/4" round stock in there and plug weled both sides extra STRONG!


The TR and drag link clearence couldnt be better. Way better than before i moved the box/axle. And i got the end of the pitman arm as high as i could to clear the frame when turned


You can see i really had no more room to move it. I wanted this to be the last time id have to mess with it.


Last one. I moved the winch solenoid box here and a in-cab switch will be wired in soon. Still working on that. Need to extend the 2gauge wires to the box also. The front of the truck looks better now and i always wanted to move it because it wasent mounted very good. Now its not going anywhere.

[Duffil]

Nice work!

[toyotaexo]

looking really good! hope the motor turns out good for you

[Yota4life]

looking really good! hope the motor turns out good for you

Ya me too. Hopefully i dont screw this up .  I really really hope that the ticking noise is gone once i get this back together!!

[GrenadedToy]

man i love your truck. you do really clean work. that steering box frame brace is one of the cleanest ive seen. real nice brake set up too. props man.

hot girlfriend btw.