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..I installed the air-cleaner today.
I would fill transmission with redline mt90. It's the best for these old toyota transmissions.
Redline MT90 or MTL or Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear oil would be good choices. I doubt your transmission will notice any difference. Your shifts will be smoother, and noticeble from conventional dino lube.Gnarls.
I like the fact that your first written choice was MT90... LOL
... I will probably just go with redline.
I am also thinking about getting an emissions test to see if it's running right. Do you think this air cleaner will make it run way lean? To the point of being bad? Gnarly you had the double filter with even more airflow, and I'd imagine you had stock jetting.
The problem with an open filter is you get the hot engine compartment air into the engine.You need a stock style, but V8 sized with a cold air snorkel(s).
... Now for a question on climate. Is having this engines first start being cold (around 30°) going to be bad? I don't have a garage, I work under my covered carport. I can use various space heaters to warm the engine prior, which would help.
Hey T,Get’n closer! Thank you for the progress reports!Great question!Cold oil is not good. NASCAR engines have heaters that heat the motor oil BEFORE they fire the engines every time they start them.Our kitchen faucet hot water comes out at about 117.5 degrees this time of year. It is below the temperature to burn skin quickly, but hot enough to create just enough pain that you don’t want to hold your hand under the faucet for over about 5 or 6 seconds.Here’s what I’d do if I was going to fire a freshly rebuilt engine in 30d F ambient air temperature….I would get the engine completely ready to fire for the initial camshaft break-in. I would take a big tub, place the 5 quarts of break-in oil in it, immediately fill it the buckets of hot tap water. I’d let it set for about 5 to 10 minutes. Then take the quarts of oil out, dry them off, pour them into the engine, and immediately fire the engine.Gnarls.
My opinion is that they've figured out an oil additive package that doesn't need the zinc anymore.(At least for overhead cam engines, probably for non-extreme non-roller tappet in block engines too)After break-in, a slippy synthetic with it's additive package should be fine.
I think it has more to do with the evolution of the engine. Less valve seat pressure, roller lifters ....
I think it has more to do with the evolution of the engine. Less valve seat pressure, roller lifters, less wear in general. No longer needed for a new car.
Another question, this time on zinc additives! ... Should I run a zinc additive for extra insurance?...
It's look'n good!!!I have not installed Autometer mechanical gauges in my Toy truck yet, but I have always had mechanical oil and an ammeter, and a tach in my vehicles.You might consider turning those tie wraps down. The little clipped off piece sticks up and is extremely sharp.I'm curious about the block heater. So it installs in one of the freeze plug holes. You remove a freeze plug and stick it in the hole? What keeps it from leaking coolant? Is it a permanent installation, or do you remove it when not needing it? Gnarls.
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