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Why not use a threaded insert?
Or go to 3/8 which would be easy to find.
If you do that, the next owner of this engine is going to haunt you for the rest of your days because he had one odd-sized imperial bolt on your engine.Or maybe I just have a thing about keeping metric things metric and imperial things imperial. Your call.
Might not be enough metal for threaded insert...…….. There is one that's M8*1.25 by 7/16x14 which might work.Mcmaster.com doesn't even have M9 screws.Helicoil's are smaller than threaded inserts, so should be enough metal, but very expensive.If you do helicoil, I'd change that location to a stud.............
I did this with a broken exhaust stud.....You need a good 1/8" Dremel size carbide bit, and good drill bit. Drill bit big enough so carbide bit fits in hole.Drill starter hole in stud remains.Now section the remains with carbide bit and remove remains..............Threads in hole should still be good.
Go full science project on it. Drill a hole for m6, tap it to reverse thread m6, and put a reverse thread bolt in it. Tighten till the m8 comes out
Perhaps I'm missing something about your rebuild......Timing covers not real cheap, but.....You may spend more $$ on whatever you buy to get the broken stud out, 10 times more time messing with it. And in the end it may not be successful.?Am I off base with my thinking? Gnarls.
It's quite difficult to have the timing cover decked without the block. I experienced that with my block, which the machinist didn't want to deck, and then decided to deck it without giving me time to run the timing cover down. I was kinda ticked off when he told me afterwards he wouldn't be able to deck the timing cover without redecking the block. H8PVMNT took a file and milled it himself, i went to some guys house on the outskirts of town, who happened to have a race shop with a full blown machine shop in his garage. I bolted it up to the block beforehand to get the measurement, and he milled it on a vertical mill to my specs
This is why I don't wanna do a new cover, I'd have to disassemble everything just to get the block re-decked.
Dropped the cylinder head off at the machine shop today, for cleaning/surfacing and a valve job is $250. I believe that included checking for cracks as well.
Hey T,Glad to see your have your project moving forward.$250 is a good price. The number 3 chamber, on stock heads, is where the common crack from the water port to the chamber appears. Any good head shop should look for that.What valves, valve seals, guides, seats, are they going to install? Do they use a specific brand?Also, I’m curious what valve/seat angles they use and recommend?I'd like to know if they deck the head at all, and if they need to, how much did they have to deck it? If they remove anything from the deck, they should measure to know whether or not it may have been previously decked. If so, the locating pins will need to be measured (or ground) to make sure their height will not prevent the head from seating down onto the head gasket and block deck. But.... you probably already know this. If you have not already, I recommend that you (or the shop) check the exhaust studs. It’s common for older heads to have studs that will spin inside the head. To help prevent this, I highly recommend NOT using the factory clamp-style nuts.Gnarls.
You should be fine, I just confirmed on a chain of mine that from shiny link to shiny link it's the same distance regardless, so timing will not be affected
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