Author Topic: Toybrota's 22R build  (Read 38151 times)

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #360 on: Mar 04, 2019, 07:59:46 PM »
Having some issues getting the carb to idle smoothly at the idle spec. I can't get it to idle smooth at 700 rpm, but at higher elevation it does. So it needs a mixture adjustment.

Debating just getting a Weber, and installing a 02 sensor and gauge to tune it properly. Probably my best bet.
That, or I will make my own manual choke and manual throttle. Both would be easy to install. Weber sounds easier.

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Hey T...

Before you go off on a Weber trip, you should consider finding out WHY your engine is having trouble with a smooth idle at 700 RPMs.  :dunno:

By the way...  a Weber carb is a viable option... but the "W" has its own set of "needs" and "wants".  :gap:

Gnarls.  :blah:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #361 on: Mar 05, 2019, 03:18:40 AM »
I love the stock carb, and I have had excellent success with the Weber as well.  The three reasons I was stuck on the Aisan carb was the fact that it is good at angles, it's ability to adjust itself for elevation and the cold start features.  What I have found with the Weber is that it is great off road with the "hill climb mod" super easy and quick to make adjustments to jetting if needed and much to my dismay it even spanks the Aisan for the cold weather start.

I have been starting up my Weber at -17-20 F the last week or so with no block heater or anything.

Either way you can't go wrong.  The Aisan can certainly be made to go with a little tweaking and some better air.  The Weber is just easier to mess with and you get more tuning options.  The downsides I thought were there with the Weber just aren't really there.

That's all I have to say about that...
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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #362 on: Mar 05, 2019, 08:25:00 AM »
I love the stock carb, and I have had excellent success with the Weber as well.  The three reasons I was stuck on the Aisan carb was the fact that it is good at angles, it's ability to adjust itself for elevation and the cold start features.  What I have found with the Weber is that it is great off road with the "hill climb mod" super easy and quick to make adjustments to jetting if needed and much to my dismay it even spanks the Aisan for the cold weather start.

I have been starting up my Weber at -17-20 F the last week or so with no block heater or anything.

Either way you can't go wrong.  The Aisan can certainly be made to go with a little tweaking and some better air.  The Weber is just easier to mess with and you get more tuning options.  The downsides I thought were there with the Weber just aren't really there.

That's all I have to say about that...
Looks like I should fully tune mine before I ditch it for the Weber.

My truck doesn't need "extreme" angle capabilities, so that stock carb should be fine for me in that regard. Elevation differences, a functional HAC **Should** help with that.
Cold starting, well mine starts all the time no matter the temp. So I'm good there. If I got a functional BVSV the damn stuff would work properly.




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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #363 on: Mar 05, 2019, 09:26:23 AM »
Current plan for the carb.

Find a functional BVSV
Find a functional HAC

I'm at about 4200' which is about the point for needing the HAC, so it would lean it out a bit from what I'm at if it was installed. I've read the HAC kicks in at 4,000' and above.
I've also read that several people say the HAC never functions how Toyota intended. Worth it? Who knows. The HAC wouldn't affect any issues I'm currently having, it'd just help with more power at higher elevation. It can be sluggish at altitude.



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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #364 on: Mar 09, 2019, 06:48:31 PM »
Now that I can finally post... I feel I'd fill everyone in on what I've done! I went ahead and bought a Weber. Well, way more than that.

I bought a Weber 32/36, with the manual choke. Installed really easily earlier today.
Haven't started the truck up yet.

Now, I know the Weber 2 piece adapter is just junk, nothing can be done. So I went ahead and bought a Offenhauser intake manifold. I went with the single plane one. I prepped the gaskets on the 2 piece adapters with a fuel safe gasket sealer. Instructions say to use a sealer/grease. I didn't use anything on where the carb mounts to the adapter.

This clears up the issue with the carb adapter, and it flows more. Flow isn't a leading cause for me to buy it, since my stock exhaust/unported head means it won't really add any power.
I also am sure my intake manifold may be leaking, if I saturate the underside of the intake manifold it stumbled slightly. Not sure if it was a random stumble or not. Either way, I'm excited to get the new intake.

Now, tuning is one of the most trickiest parts for getting the Weber to run properly. So I bought a Air Fuel ratio gauge from Glowshift gauges. It'll require me to weld a 02 sensor in the exhaust, but it's worth the troubles. This will allow me to FULLY tune this carb and get it running how it should! I'm very happy I took everyone's advice!
I bought a high altitude jet kit so I can tune it beyond adjusting the screws. I'm at 4200' which is considered high altitude for the stock jet in the carb.

I got a few more odds and ends, a fuel pressure gauge/regulator. And the install kit for the intake, as it requires me to plumb the heater lines different. No biggie.


What do you all think? Good choice? Thanks for the helpful advice. While the forum was down, I started a write up on Pirate4x4 and have gotten nothing but crap from what I've spent and done to this truck. Guess I know which forum I'm loyal to.

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« Last Edit: Mar 09, 2019, 08:57:58 PM by Toybrota »

Gnarly4X

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #365 on: Mar 10, 2019, 06:55:41 AM »
Now that I can finally post... I feel I'd fill everyone in on what I've done! I went ahead and bought a Weber. Well, way more than that.

I bought a Weber 32/36, with the manual choke. Installed really easily earlier today.
Haven't started the truck up yet.

Now, I know the Weber 2 piece adapter is just junk, nothing can be done. So I went ahead and bought a Offenhauser intake manifold. I went with the single plane one. I prepped the gaskets on the 2 piece adapters with a fuel safe gasket sealer. Instructions say to use a sealer/grease. I didn't use anything on where the carb mounts to the adapter.

This clears up the issue with the carb adapter, and it flows more. Flow isn't a leading cause for me to buy it, since my stock exhaust/unported head means it won't really add any power.
I also am sure my intake manifold may be leaking, if I saturate the underside of the intake manifold it stumbled slightly. Not sure if it was a random stumble or not. Either way, I'm excited to get the new intake.

Now, tuning is one of the most trickiest parts for getting the Weber to run properly. So I bought a Air Fuel ratio gauge from Glowshift gauges. It'll require me to weld a 02 sensor in the exhaust, but it's worth the troubles. This will allow me to FULLY tune this carb and get it running how it should! I'm very happy I took everyone's advice!
I bought a high altitude jet kit so I can tune it beyond adjusting the screws. I'm at 4200' which is considered high altitude for the stock jet in the carb.

I got a few more odds and ends, a fuel pressure gauge/regulator. And the install kit for the intake, as it requires me to plumb the heater lines different. No biggie.


What do you all think? Good choice? Thanks for the helpful advice. While the forum was down, I started a write up on Pirate4x4 and have gotten nothing but crap from what I've spent and done to this truck. Guess I know which forum I'm loyal to.

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Hey T,

Great job!  :beerchug:

I really appreciate you sharing your experiences.  To me THAT is major part of this type of forum!   :yesnod:

We, the small number of people who are early Toyota owners, are true automotive hobbiests.

On the Weber, I think you have some good people here to pull information from.  I know that H8PVMNT has done extensive carb "testing and tweaking".  :thumbs:

It's very smart get an AFR gauge.  I ran Webers for 8 years on 3 sand rails... I have my own opinions on Webers.  :gap:

Performance turning in elevations above sea level has its own challenges.  H8PVMNT is at about 3400 feet, so he has experience that he may want to share on his similar challenges... just my observations.  There are some great posts he has made in the past.  :biggthumpup:

What octane fuel are you burning?  :driving:

With your dedication, tenacity, and knowledge, you will get there!   :crossed:

On Pirate.... been there.  Dealing with the constant berating and pure pathetically idiotic vilifying is a waste of good time.  There are some golden nuggets of info there but stepping through the piles of Bravo Sierra is irritating to say the least.  :twocents:

Posting and sharing good information on Pirate is sometimes appreciated about as much as a nasty hemorroid.  :thumbdown:

Gnarls - that's just my opinion - it may be useless, worthless, and simply pomp 'n stink.  :dunno:




« Last Edit: Mar 10, 2019, 07:26:14 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #366 on: Mar 10, 2019, 07:36:35 AM »
The 32/36 is jetted towards the lean side in its stock form, so I advise to try it as is as a baseline before tuning. You will want between 12 and 13:1 at WOT, ideal being 12.5-12.8:1. At cruising highway, around 15-15.5:1, and idle being whatever it likes best, usually pretty rich. I suggest playing with the timing at they seem to like a bit more than stock at around 8btdc initial. Any a/f change above 4000rpms it made with the air correctors, and below that with the main jets. A good recommended float setting is 18mm & 28mm for a weber 38 at least. Thanks for sharing your project with us!  :beerchug:

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #367 on: Mar 10, 2019, 11:07:54 AM »
The 32/36 is jetted towards the lean side in its stock form, so I advise to try it as is as a baseline before tuning. You will want between 12 and 13:1 at WOT, ideal being 12.5-12.8:1. At cruising highway, around 15-15.5:1, and idle being whatever it likes best, usually pretty rich. I suggest playing with the timing at they seem to like a bit more than stock at around 8btdc initial. Any a/f change above 4000rpms it made with the air correctors, and below that with the main jets. A good recommended float setting is 18mm & 28mm for a weber 38 at least. Thanks for sharing your project with us!  :beerchug:

Hey G...   :beerchug:

There ya go!!  THAT is a GOLDEN NUGGET!!  :thumbs:

Gnarls.  :gap:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #368 on: Mar 10, 2019, 11:19:27 AM »
I will add a tid-bit of my experience with Weber carbs…

They are very sensitive about “cleanliness”!

I sand railed in the sand and dusty environment, so I learned to make sure my Weber was happy breathing “bad” air at times.  Ingesting even the tiniest piece of dust or sand would upset my Weber.

I had 2 external inline fuel filters from the gas tank to carb.

I spent lots of time cleaning the air filters and air filter canister and carb mount, and making sure the ambient air supply was filtered and the air cleaner was sealed well.

During my sand railing days I only have about 8 years of experience with air filters, and especially K&N.  I have posted a number of times my experience with K&N air filters and I’m not a big fan the them for a number of very good reasons, based upon MY particular experiences.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #369 on: Mar 10, 2019, 11:52:07 AM »
She's alive! Well, she was.
All I had to do today was route the choke cable, and install the air cleaner.

I chose an easy location for the choke cable, next to the E-brake handle. I routed the line itself out thru the speedometer cable grommet, and up and around to the carb. I did end up trimming the length, which was also easy. Choke works great, full movement no binding.

I am having an issue with the air cleaner, seems when I tighten down the 4 bolts the center of it rises up, which is a gap. I'll include a picture below. Not sure what I'll do yet, I may make a very thick gasket out of a fuel safe material to help seal that up. Or maybe I'm doing it wrong?

The first startup was easy, with the choke on I cranked until it fired up. Ran out to the engine bay and got it to idle, and idle pretty good. Following the idle jet adjustment parameters (how much the screw has to be turned in after setting it), I found that my idle jet was a bit too lean. The primary idle jet was already a 50, while the secondary was a 55. 50 is my smallest size, so I put the 50 in the secondary. I'll know for sure if this is proper once my AFR gauge is installed.

Fuel pressure regulator adjustment was a snap! 12mm acorn nut on top, and a lock nut on the bottom of the adjustment screw. I had to fiddle will the screw before it'd make a change on the gauge, but I got it set exactly at 3psi.

First drive was good, seem to have a slight hesitation once you take off, which will be addressed with the AFR gauge so I can further tune it. I'm guessing it may be too rich.

Got back, and checked for vacuum leaks. Doh! It has one. Yep, my stupid two piece adapter is leaking. Even my measures of adding a gasket sealer to the gaskets (per the instructions) didn't work. No biggie, the Offenhauser will be here Tuesday! I may not get it done until the weekend, since I don't wanna rush the install. I'm very excited to hear it rip (through the stock restrictive exhaust)

Any recommendations for the air cleaner issue? I can't really afford a fancy one right now. Plus, the stock one looks so cool!

I was amazed at how fast it started once it's warmed up, THIS is what I love already about it.


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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #370 on: Mar 10, 2019, 11:53:30 AM »
I will add a tid-bit of my experience with Weber carbs…

They are very sensitive about “cleanliness”!

I sand railed in the sand and dusty environment, so I learned to make sure my Weber was happy breathing “bad” air at times.  Ingesting even the tiniest piece of dust or sand would upset my Weber.

I had 2 external inline fuel filters from the gas tank to carb.

I spent lots of time cleaning the air filters and air filter canister and carb mount, and making sure the ambient air supply was filtered and the air cleaner was sealed well.

During my sand railing days I only have about 8 years of experience with air filters, and especially K&N.  I have posted a number of times my experience with K&N air filters and I’m not a big fan the them for a number of very good reasons, based upon MY particular experiences.

Gnarls.
Thank you for the advice. Yeah, I'm not keen on dropping nearly $200 on the K&N filter from LCE. Not worth it. I'd plumb a snorkel for that price!

For the clean fuel, I DID replace the fuel filter when I rebuilt the motor. But, I think it could totally use a clean one. I was thinking of running my second one in line after the fuel pump before the regulator.

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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #371 on: Mar 10, 2019, 11:58:32 AM »
The 32/36 is jetted towards the lean side in its stock form, so I advise to try it as is as a baseline before tuning. You will want between 12 and 13:1 at WOT, ideal being 12.5-12.8:1. At cruising highway, around 15-15.5:1, and idle being whatever it likes best, usually pretty rich. I suggest playing with the timing at they seem to like a bit more than stock at around 8btdc initial. Any a/f change above 4000rpms it made with the air correctors, and below that with the main jets. A good recommended float setting is 18mm & 28mm for a weber 38 at least. Thanks for sharing your project with us!  :beerchug:
Thank you for the tips! I was curious what the readings should be for the AFR, now I know. LC engineering was off on the website about the jet size, but no biggie.

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #372 on: Mar 10, 2019, 10:07:42 PM »
I think you will like the Weber.  Get yourself a range of jets and air correctors and you will be able to tune out any hesitations or flat spots. There will even be a jet for your secondary that makes it hammer down if you want it too, or the next one leaner will save a little gas. On your air cleaner plate, I would take it off and flatten it out on an anvil or something and then just don't tighten the nuts down so hard.
« Last Edit: Mar 11, 2019, 03:03:33 AM by H8PVMNT »
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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #373 on: Mar 11, 2019, 08:19:50 AM »
I think you will like the Weber.  Get yourself a range of jets and air correctors and you will be able to tune out any hesitations or flat spots. There will even be a jet for your secondary that makes it hammer down if you want it too, or the next one leaner will save a little gas. On your air cleaner plate, I would take it off and flatten it out on an anvil or something and then just don't tighten the nuts down so hard.
Thanks for the tips! I've got a pretty good jet kit already, but I may need to get some more. We will have to see... MPG is important! What MPG do you see on your Weber? I saw your YouTube video of the Hill climb with the Weber, impressive!

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #374 on: Mar 11, 2019, 11:32:14 AM »
Great tech here on this thread! I'm also casually thinking about Weberizing my truck for the mileage (it's likely going to see thousands of miles this summer), and I greatly appreciate your time and effort to document stuff.

I'll also be keeping my ears peeled for news on the mileage of the Weber vs Aisin carbs

Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #375 on: Mar 12, 2019, 10:47:21 AM »
Great tech here on this thread! I'm also casually thinking about Weberizing my truck for the mileage (it's likely going to see thousands of miles this summer), and I greatly appreciate your time and effort to document stuff.

I'll also be keeping my ears peeled for news on the mileage of the Weber vs Aisin carbs
Hey, same plan for this summer! One of the reasons I wanted the Weber, extremely reliable. And, tune for better mpg!


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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #376 on: Mar 12, 2019, 10:54:57 AM »
The intake arrived! Really happy with it and it's not even on the truck yet. I've heard of casting errors with these so I went ahead and threaded everything in to make sure everything is right before I install it.

One thing I noted, the factory temp gauge will have to move! Not a biggie. Literally everything on this will be plugged off aside from the brake booster hookup, and my factory and mechanical temp gauge. I'll include a pic below of where I'm placing what.

LCE also goofed and sent me extra water block plates, when you order the intake and intake install kit, they send you extra. I'll have to call and let them know. I didn't pay extra for them, so I'll put them up on the forum here for free.

Real stoked to get started. One thing I've considered, the fenderwell has tons of wires and whatnot going to the intake in the stock configuration (choke wiring, thermo sensors...).
Since I'm using the Weber carb, I have no need for any of it. I'm debating clipping the connectors (a little ways into the harness) and saving them in case this truck ever goes a different direction. That, or I'll just find a way to tuck the harness and make it look better.

Just needs a billet plug wire holder!

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #377 on: Mar 12, 2019, 11:22:41 AM »
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190312/b663282c64efd238d13a528427cb0214.jpg

Are you sure that is where the mechanical water temp gauge sender goes?

Gnarls.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #378 on: Mar 12, 2019, 11:23:51 AM »
Are you sure that is where the mechanical water temp gauge goes?

Gnarls.
Yep, that's where I have it on my stock intake. No leaks. Fits great.

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #379 on: Mar 12, 2019, 05:20:48 PM »
Got the old intake manifold removed and everything cleaned up for the install. The intake gasket was a little baked on, but I made quick work of it with a razor blade. Being very careful to not gouge the surface. There's a few dark spots here and there, where I believe the gasket cooked itself into the metal, surface feels great so I'm not too worried.
Got the timing cover block plate installed too.

The heater hose line will run from the bottom of that intake plate to the heater core itself. Curious if the heat will be any different in terms of temp. Not super happy to block coolant flow, but I'm sure it'll be fine.

The bottom intake plate looks awesome, LCE recommended to use silicone on the bolts to prevent leaks. I ended up using "The right stuff", I also smeared a thin layer on the gasket.

I'll have to ditch the fuel Hardline on the bottom of the manifold, but I'll just run some rubber line.

Stoked to get started on the install, it's gonna snow tomorrow so I'll have to wait.

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #380 on: Mar 15, 2019, 07:31:32 PM »
Finally installed the intake! It was really easy, dare I say quite fun. As I mentioned, I plumbed the heater core line differently than stock since I blocked off the passenger cover timing cover. The heat is fantastic. Burping the cooling system took a bit, but the heat is nice and hot now, no bubbles from what I can tell.

I had a few leaks with the shoulder straight plugs that go in a few of the holes at first, snugged them up. The stock temp sensor was leaking no matter what, I used Teflon tape on the threads but it still leaked. I just removed it for now. The mechanical gauge as expected works great, so I have no need for the inaccurate stock one.

No vacuum leaks that I can find, I can finally start the tuning process. I need to get the air cleaner issue fixed and then I can start driving it. Super stoked. It starts up so incredibly quickly. Love the Weber. I've had countless people tell me how dumb and stupid I am for installing this carb, but I am so happy that I did.

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #381 on: Mar 16, 2019, 05:02:56 AM »
Finally installed the intake! It was really easy......

Super stoked. It starts up so incredibly quickly. Love the Weber...

I've had countless people tell me how dumb and stupid I am for installing this carb, but I am so happy that I did.


Hey T....

Glad you got it installed.  :beerchug:

Reads like you have your rebuild finally at the stage where you get to enjoy the tweaking and tuning part.  :gap:

As you have discovered, everyone has an opinion but when you do a reality check and find out for yourself, you'll have a different attitude about what "countless people" tell you.

I suggest you check and recheck the mounting bolts on that intake manifold, it hangs off the side of the block with very little extra support.  :thumbs:

I really enjoy following your project.  :driving:

Gnarls.  :biggthumpup:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #382 on: Mar 16, 2019, 07:10:22 AM »
Hey T....

Glad you got it installed.  :beerchug:

Reads like you have your rebuild finally at the stage where you get to enjoy the tweaking and tuning part.  :gap:

As you have discovered, everyone has an opinion but when you do a reality check and find out for yourself, you'll have a different attitude about what "countless people" tell you.

I suggest you check and recheck the mounting bolts on that intake manifold, it hangs off the side of the block with very little extra support.  :thumbs:

I really enjoy following your project.  :driving:

Gnarls.  :biggthumpup:
Thanks Gnarls. I plan to check and re-torque those bolts frequently. I am using a stud kit instead of the stock setup of a few studs and then bolts, which I imagine would help spread the load out. Let's see...

The RE motors have that cross bar that goes from the intake to the block, maybe I'll weld up something similar.

I am thinking I'll get some thick gasket paper and make my own carb to air cleaner gasket, I want it as air tight as possible.

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H8PVMNT

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #383 on: Mar 16, 2019, 12:33:33 PM »
Cork would be nice with a little grease on it.
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

 "I'm jealous of your shop. It has concrete and doesn't smell like pickles like the old shop  "  300K

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #384 on: Mar 17, 2019, 10:10:45 AM »
Took the truck out for a test to see if anything leaks.
Darn thing drives great, a little lacking of power when I step on it (Needs to be fully tuned) but it's absolutely driveable.

As H8PVMNT Suggested, I went ahead and made a cork gasket for the air cleaner. Really easy to do, trace and cut. Seems to be sealing good, added grease to both sides to help it seal even better.

I do have a few small antifreeze leaks. All from fittings. The heater core line is leaking, the bottom intake plate with the Barb. Not sure why, I added a hose clamp and made sure it was snug. I'll have to investigate that more.
Both of the "shouldered" plugs in the intake are also leaking, I added some Teflon thread tape to help seal it, but that didn't do anything. I'm wondering if these plugs need a sealant at all? Some of the plugs in the kit from LCE have sealant, so that leads me to believe that they don't need it?

Temp sensor adapter is leaking slightly too, I'll snug it up and see if it changes.

The truck started running warmer on my way home from my test drive, I'm almost certain it's a cooling system bubble. The gauge will fluctuate between 180-200 at idle. Sounds like an air bubble to me. No biggie, spill free funnels make it easy!

I also bought a set of spark plugs, I figured while I wait to get the AFR gauge installed I'll check the plugs every fill-up to see if it's running overly rich or lean. Since I'm at a high elevation it would be running rich, so my MPG would take a hit if it is running rich.

Fun fun fun!

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #385 on: Mar 17, 2019, 04:08:36 PM »
Been fighting with this leaking coolant line for the last few hours. No matter what I do, it still leaks. I tried two hose clamps, still leaks. Oriented the clamp in different locations, still leaks.
I can't drive this thing until I get this fixed, it's really frustrating me. Different style of clamp? Heat is kinda important, likewise I'd like to keep it.
Getting close to just letting this truck sit for awhile, I am moving halfway across the country in a month and I can't just keep pouring money into it.

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #386 on: Mar 17, 2019, 07:03:51 PM »
Try a factory toyota hose clamp. Ive had issues with the kind of clamps you're using a couple of times (dont know why) and a toyota clamp fixed it.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,85 front axle,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     Also 84 toy DD 22R 4.88s,33'' toyo mt'z, marlin clutch,4inch lift/63's, HA drivelines.

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #387 on: Mar 17, 2019, 08:21:16 PM »
Use a fuel injection hose clamp
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #388 on: Mar 17, 2019, 08:23:10 PM »
Use a fuel injection hose clamp
That's what I was thinking, since they hold a larger pressure it would absolutely hold.

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #389 on: Mar 18, 2019, 12:43:05 PM »
Fixed the leak! I ditched the stupid barbed fitting and got an actual heater hose adapter.
I'm guessing the barbed fitting just doesn't like a hose clamp on it, less area to seal around. I went with a heater hose fitting from O'Reilly's, 3/8NPT male to a 5/8 male hose connection. I used a 3/8npt male to 3/8npt female to get the hose in the right direction. So far, no leaks. Driven it around a bit and haven't seen a drop. I'll probably get fuel injection style clamps for everything on this truck, good suggestion emsvitil!

Not necessarily ideal to have adapters in adapters, more potential leak paths. But, I'll keep an eye on it.

Getting the 02 sensor installed on Thursday, then I can properly tune it. The truck already drives exceptionally well, so I'll continue to drive it until then.

I WAS originally planning to drive this truck when I move, but I'm just gonna ship it. Salt Lake to Vancouver is too far to have something go wrong.
That means I'll be spending close to $1500 on shipping both my rigs. Worth it!

Thanks again for all the help and advice everyone.

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