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Move
Move? Where to?
Move to Mexico where all those Toyotas are.
MOVE TO MEXICO!!!! Lewis, Lewis, Lewis...You want me to die? Mexico is one of the most disease ridden countries in world!! You can't even drink the water or eat the lettuce! Nope.... been to Mexico a number of times. You could not pay me enough to move there. PERIOD. In fact, I probably will NEVER visit Mexico again. I am upset about the number of our early Toyota trucks being hauled across the border. Gnarls.
I see two toyotas pulling two toyotas at least once a week. In back window reads In Tow. I sold two trucks to these guys and now there both in gutamula
There's probably an online calculator that will tell you what size jet to use.Enter old altitude, new altitude and old jet size and get new jet size...……...………..
This is a pretty good write up... http://sv3power.com/?page_id=373And this one,,, http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htmBasically however many turns your idle mixture screw needs to be out to have the thing idle right will indicate if your idle jet size is correct or not. Everything else falls into place from seat of the pants feel and/or AFR readings. There is a little wiggle room there. I tend to run a jet richer in the winter time because it seems to help with the cold start and just runs better at sub zero temps. In the summer with the same jet it will run on and diesel a bit when I shut it off so I pull it back one step leaner."If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns."
First butt Dyno around tells me it runs really REALLY good. Better than it did back in Salt Lake.I haven't messed with my timing yet.
Hey T,Glad your Toys are running great. I hope you are enjoying the big move.Your spark plugs look fine.Your engines will get a nice boost in power at your lower elevation. Your carb'd engine is more affected by elevation changes than the EFI engines. A carb’d 22R can drop up to 4 HP for every 1,000 feet in elevation rise above sea level.As you know, two changes are usually made for high elevation tuning – 1 – leaner mixture – less oxygen to burn fuel mixture, and 2 – advance in ignition timing to begin combustion earlier.Oh... and your oil and coolant temperatures will drop slightly at your lower elevation. Also, if your RH is higher, your engine will be happier.Gnarls.
.... It idles a bit rough when I restart it ..... What do you think?
I've definitely felt the power increase. Feels like I've gotten the full benefits of the intake! The IR Thermometer reads about 170° when pointed at the thermostat neck with the mechanical temp gauge reading 180° These are great temps, it goes to about 170° on the mechanical when freeway driving. These are fantastic numbers to keep it running cool in the summer. I'm pretty confident it'll run cool in the desert too. It idles a bit rough when I restart it when it's warm, but after driving it idles smoother. To me this seems like it's too rich, dumping fuel that has to be cleared out by running it. What do you think? Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
That little Weber will idle beautifully hot or cold when set up right and no issues. Pretty much every carb known to man will do the same.
Stock was the uncommon 225/75/15
Tires and wheels are cool.My 85 22R got between 19 and 20 MPG on 89 octane at an average of about 1200 feet elevation.Did you use this on the intake plate?......https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-water-pump-thermostat-rtv-silicone-gasket/“A noncorrosive, sensor-safe RTV silicone gasket material formulated specifically for water pumps and thermostat housings. Highest water-glycol resistance available in an RTV silicone.”Or this:https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/Not just on the treads.Read the tech data sheet.Gnarls.
Glad to read that your little red truck is happy. You installed metal timing chain guides, right?In my experience, valve lash is going to change, and it won’t hurt to check and re-adjust every 6,000 miles. If you do, order a Beck Arlney Rocker Cover kit – P/N 036-1817. It’s made in Japan and as good as any I’ve tried. The cover gasket will eventually go flat and get harder and may not seal well enough to prevent oil leaking. I was able to R&R the cover 5 or 6 times before installing a new gasket kit… but you will know when its time to install a new kit. After installing a new gasket kit, I rechecked and re-tightened the cover nuts after 100 miles .Typically for me, the intake valve lash got loser, and the exhaust valve lash went a little tight. I ended up the 7/11 on hot engine, on my 22R, after trying different lash settings on a factory stock cam. If I ended up with one rebel rocker making more noise than the others, I’d go back in and tweak it just a tad tighter. Usually, the tighter the lash the more it moves the power to the upper RPMs…. slightly less low end torque. I always tried to get the rocker tick to be as even as possible on all 8 valves. For my 22R, I couldn’t really tell the difference between 8/12 and 7/11 other than the rocker tick was quieter. I’m not saying that’s the right thing to do, but I just didn’t like excessive uneven rock tick.On your oil pan leak, have you rechecked your pan bolts?... snug them up a little.Gnarls.
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