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Hi T,On the crankshaft… What is probably on the crank journals is micro corrosion, micro inches of oxidation. I would take 600 grit emery cloth and lightly work a strip the width of the journal back and forth. The corrosion will be probably be removed. I’d clean it really well with solvent, then wipe it with a very thin coat of motor oil or WD-40.If the emery cloth does not remove the corrosion completely I’d let my machine shop look at, and they’d most likely recommend re-polishing it.On the balancing question…. Todd at engnbldr said he did not recommend having my rebuild balanced. Also, 22RE Performance's Stage 2 engine appears to NOT be balanced. I have not confirmed that with Jim.When I asked my machine shop, of course, they recommended a balancing. I had them check and balance the rods, crank, flywheel with pressure plate. Unless you are building a high revving engine - 6,000 or higher, I doubt that balancing it will make any difference in performance or longevity on our little inline 4 cylinder engines. My machine only charged $95.00, so I decided to have them do it because I was really curious what they would find.On the flywheel “machined”…I assume the contact surfaces will be machined flat and smooth and also make sure that the crankshaft mating surface is true and perpendicular to the crankshaft. I’d consider cost and turn-around time. That is a good idea if you installing a new clutch disc and pressure plate, AND the shop is NOT charging very much. You can buy a brand LUK flywheel from RockAuto for $37.00. On all 3 of my trucks that I did a clutch job - to the flywheel, I simply took 10 or 15 minutes with some 400 emery cloth and a flat block and sanded the surface where the clutch disc mates to get any glaze or micro-grooving, then finished sanding it with 600 grit. Unless the surface is heat stressed or has surface cracks or deep grooves (which may need to be replaced), the machining would insure that the contact surface is flat and smooth.That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.Gnarls.
Hey T,600 grit would not have been able to remove too much metal. Based on the photo, it looks like there is still some surface micro corrosion or pitting. The journals should be a mirror chrome-like finish. If 600 grit does not remove it, I’d have the shop re-polish it. I believe H8PVMNT has done quit a bit of work on refreshing crankshafts, he would have some good input.On seal sleeves… I’ve read mixed reviews on their use. If the crankshaft has deep grooving on the rear crank where the seal rides, and you don’t want to replace the crankshaft, then the sleeve is an option.So the “input shaft”… are you talking about the transmission input shaft? If you haven’t already read it, check out my posts in the transmission section on the input shaft seal issue that I went through.On the clutch kit, is the clutch disc contaminated with oil? If not, I don’t believe you have enough miles on it to need replacing. If you want to replace it with a kit, I’d go with M-Pact, LUK, Beck Arnley, or Aisin. Although they are popular, I would NOT buy a heavy duty kit – I’ve never smoked a stock style clutch in any of my trucks. Be sure to replace the pilot bearing. Before installing the tranny into the bell housing, and before you install the new pilot bearing, be sure you slip the pilot bearing over the end of the input shaft to make sure it slips on the tip of the shaft easily.https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1985,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277300,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993On installing the bolts for the water pump and timing cover, unless you know for sure, be sure to measure the depth of each bolt hole and note the location for each bolt, and know which ones also will hold a bracket when finally installed.I may have missed something. Please keep us posted on your progress.Gnarls.
Update from today ~ Took the crank and flywheel to a machine shop today, "Hunter Machine" in West valley, Utah.They looked at the crank and said that it was in no way going to need a Polish, great new for me. He said the corrosion was barely even anything, and to just put it in as is. He also installed the seal saver I brought in, for free. Dropped the flywheel off for a $45 resurfacing. As far as the clutch is concerned, I looked at Rock Auto and LCE, LCE sells a clutch kit for $110 from Exedy. I decided on that one, comes with new bearings. Block gets Assembly on Saturday, picking up a ring expander and ring compressor tool. Plastigauge checking ever journal of course. Piston rings already gapped. Seating the thrust washer seems very tedious, but I have an idea from some videos I've watched. Can't wait to get the motor pulled, most likely before October! Also, can anyone recommended a good break in procedure? I'm using the original cam. I am going to follow cam break in procedures anyways, to help seat the piston rings. After that I figured I'd just drive it, very carefully varying RPM for the first 500 miles with no freeways. Anyone see this as a problem? After the initial valve adjustment, it'll get valve checks every oil change along with head bolt re-torque every few. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Hi T,Glad you don't have to polish the crank... saves some money. It's hard visualize looking at a 2D low res photo. Hunter publishes their prices... nice.Break in... I've had many conversations about engine "break-in procedures" for a rebuild. I'd go with 22RE Performance's version. The main thing is not to "baby" the engine during the first 50 to 100 miles. I'm curious what procedure Hunter will recommend.Who's pistons and rings did you end up with?What is your thinking on not installing a new camshaft?The clutch kit... I would replace the disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw-out bearing. I no experience with Exedy. Exedy is a USA subsidiary of a Japanese company... for what that's worth.It is typically recommened to change break-in oil at about 500 miles. I would not wait for oil change to check valve lash. You are going to set valve lash cold. After firing engine, after 100 miles, I'd re-check valve lash.If you are not installing new cam, no need to do a "cam" break in, but can't hurt to keep oil pressure up for 20 minutes at fast idle.Ring gap... so you checked the gap after the block has been machined, what has been done to the block?Did you decide to go with balancing or not?Thank you for keeping us updated.Gnarls.
Rings, I'm using Hastings. Block is bored 0.020" over and is matched with the correct pistons. Ring gap was sitting a little over 0.013" on all cylinders, minimum I calculated to be 0.012 (using LCE guide lines). Pistons are Hypereutectic from LCE. Reason for keeping the cam, well it's a stock truck that will never see tires larger than 29's. The stock Cam profile works for me, so why spend needless money? Hunter recommended that I don't balance the crank and everything else, so I'm not going to. For the break in, it'll get valve adjustments as soon as it's done running and getting to opperating temp. I plan not to baby it, I'm going to stay away from anything over 3500 RPM for the first little bit. Engine break-in seems to revolve around varying engine speed, so thats what it'll get. Clutch kit will come with everything, so everything is getting replaced. The only thing I'm in the dark on, is the emissions stuff. I got an early 22R exhaust manifold that'll go onto the down tube. Any experience cleaning the EGR valve? I don't want this engine getting crap left over from the previous engine(s)
On my 85 22R, I left the EGR and smog stuff installed. I did clean every thing when did a head job. There should be lots of information on removing that stuff. The EGR tube and plate does get carbon'd up pretty badly in high mileage engines. Mine was partially plugged up.Gnarls.
....Thing is, I PAID the machine shop to check over the bushings, and they charged me for it. But clearly it wasn't done properly. Great!
The issue of improper machine work, and what comes out of the machine shop may be way too often a problem. I trusted my machine shop, but I did not verify with own measurements the accuracy of their machine work. This *may* be is the issue now with my rebuild.Any future machine shop I have done, I will ask for proof of the machine work and a detailed measurement of results report, and then I will triple check the work and all measurements with own gauges.Gnarls.
What is the issue with your rebuild?
I am almost convinced that a rebuilt 22R will never see the mileage that it did when it left the factory.
My issue is ..... after over 10,000 miles since the complete rebuild of this engine it is burning about 1 quart of oil approximately every 600 miles. There is no smoke and no detectable blow-by... .just oil consumption. The power is good.Gnarls.
I have read 100s of posts in multiple Toyota sites over the last 20 years discussing simple tuning problems to major failures on early Toyota engine rebuilds. The problems stem from the backyard DIYer that claims to do a rebuild in 2 hours to the purchased short blocks, long blocks, and turn-keys. From all kinds sources and parts.I believe it takes WAY more knowledge, experience, selection of the right parts and machine work starting with understanding the desired application for the engine, and the age and condition of the block.I also believe that there are a few Toyota engine builders out there that take a great deal of pride in what they offer in parts and rebuilds, and have a very reputable history of providing very high quality products. I would bet that a Stage 1 or Stage 2 engine from 22RE Performance will easily go as many miles or more miles as any stock factory engine.When it comes to the necessary machine work, you'd better be VERY sure you know exactly what is being done and what ALL of the specs and measurements are, and what should be done to insure the very best rebuild (sonic tested and magnafluxed, rings and RA matched, for example) --- before you start the assembly.With the poor quality of some after market parts for our early Toyota trucks, one has to be extremely careful to choose the best quality available. The difference is cost typically ends up completely irrelevant to the outcome and result of the rebuild. Saving a couple hundred dollars on $3000 or $4000 rebuild when it fails and you have rebuild again, that "savings" now becomes a huge cost!!That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.Gnarls.
It's nice to follow your progress and taking your time to do it the right way while you document it here. I realize there are different opinions on what is "right". I'm puzzled why you left the plastigauge on the crank rather than cleaning off? Gnarls
Haha what room of the house are you building it in? I like the kitchen personally
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