Toybrota's 22R build

[300k]

Toyota FIPG.

[Toybrota]

Okay cost the gasket with something. That's what I did last time, worked with no gasket.

If the synthetic gear oil runs that good, I'm gonna pick some up here for my daily. But my concern is the GL-4 vs GL-5 grades. Toyota wants GL-4 since it doesn't ruin brass syncros. The only GL-4 I know is redline.

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[Gnarly4X]

But my concern is the GL-4 vs GL-5 grades. Toyota wants GL-4 since it doesn't ruin brass syncros. The only GL-4 I know is redline.

You may know something about the chemical differences between GL4 and GL5.  You may also know exactly what the specific metallurgy and alloy formulation is on the synchros that are in your transmission.   

I do know that my transmission shop would only install Toyota factory synchos in my 5-speed transmissions, and told me that some aftermarket synchros have incorrect alloy that cause a problem with proper co-efficient of friction and lock-up.  They didn't mention anything about gear oil compatibility.

When I spoke to Redline technical department back in 1995, Redline did recommend MTL which is GL-4 for my transmission.  MT-90 is also GL-4.

I believe there is sufficient information now that the early formulations of gear oils with reactive sulfurs, that caused a problem with corrosion in copper alloys, are no longer used in modern gear oil formulations.

I don't believe ExxonMobil, the largest USA oil producer, is going to sell a synthetic gear oil that will destroy synchronizer gears in a massive number vehicles with manual transmissions still being driven world-wide.

Here's an interesting short video on the comparison:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHwULF-EdtQ

To sleep well at night, using a high quality GL-4 oil in our transmissions won't hurt.

That's just my opinion – it may be worthless. 

Gnarls. 

[H8PVMNT]

I've been using the Sta-Lube GL4 the past few times.  My perception is better shifting than GL5, although I had used GL5 for years and never had any real problems.

[Toybrota]

You may know something about the chemical differences between GL4 and GL5.  You may also know exactly what the specific metallurgy and alloy formulation is on the synchros that are in your transmission.   

I do know that my transmission shop would only install Toyota factory synchos in my 5-speed transmissions, and told me that some aftermarket synchros have incorrect alloy that cause a problem with proper co-efficient of friction and lock-up.  They didn't mention anything about gear oil compatibility.

When I spoke to Redline technical department back in 1995, Redline did recommend MTL which is GL-4 for my transmission.  MT-90 is also GL-4.

I believe there is sufficient information now that the early formulations of gear oils with reactive sulfurs, that caused a problem with corrosion in copper alloys, are no longer used in modern gear oil formulations.

I don't believe ExxonMobil, the largest USA oil producer, is going to sell a synthetic gear oil that will destroy synchronizer gears in a massive number vehicles with manual transmissions still being driven world-wide.

Here's an interesting short video on the comparison:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHwULF-EdtQ

To sleep well at night, using a high quality GL-4 oil in our transmissions won't hurt.

That's just my opinion – it may be worthless. 

Gnarls. 

Thank you for this information, I think I'll try and track down some GL4. Special order from parts store won't be bad.


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[Toybrota]

Hey everyone, today I found out that we lost a fellow Toyota owner.
He was the one who sent me this intake manifold on my truck. His name was Connor Gillmore, didn't know him personally but I have a mission to dedicate this build to him.
Rest in peace the gr8pumpkin!

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[OVRAROK]

Sorry to hear...

[Gnarly4X]

Sorry to hear...

Yeah... losing a fellow Toyota wheeler is always a sad day. 

Gnarls. 

[300k]

What the? I assume you're talking about Congill77 because he had that orange 4runner called the gr8punkin.

That's really sad to hear. please please please wear your seat belts people.

[:)bestgen4runner]

Hey everyone, today I found out that we lost a fellow Toyota owner.
He was the one who sent me this intake manifold on my truck. His name was Connor Gillmore, didn't know him personally but I have a mission to dedicate this build to him.
Rest in peace the gr8pumpkin!

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More info required

[Toybrota]

What the? I assume you're talking about Congill77 because he had that orange 4runner called the gr8punkin.

That's really sad to hear. please please please wear your seat belts people.

That would be him. He had finished the engine install on his 92' MR2. Local news from Greeley said he would've survived had he worn his belt. I think he flipped it? Sad either way.


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[300k]

More info required

https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/one-injured-after-car-rolls-into-tree-in-west-greeley/

https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/greeley-22-year-old-who-died-after-suffering-injuries-in-crash-identified/

https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/obituary-for-connor-gillmore/

Those worked for me yesterday but now they seem to be hidden behind a registration wall. maybe it's cause I visited them more than once?

Very sad news.

[Toybrota]

Well, he's wrenching in a better place.
The amount of support and love that I've seen from our community for him has given me hope for humanity.

https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/one-injured-after-car-rolls-into-tree-in-west-greeley/

https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/greeley-22-year-old-who-died-after-suffering-injuries-in-crash-identified/

https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/obituary-for-connor-gillmore/

Those worked for me yesterday but now they seem to be hidden behind a registration wall. maybe it's cause I visited them more than once?

Very sad news.

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[Toybrota]

Hey everyone, great news! I am installing the engine tomorrow.
I have everything needed, so why not? Getting the engine out of my house was sure a struggle.
Even with my 7'0" tall friend who is very buff we struggled but got it up 4 stair steps. Due to how my steps are, and that it
was in a darn house, a hoist couldn't be used.
Tomorrow I have to bolt the rear main seal holder and seal on, and do the flywheel and clutch.
Flywheel was machined and looks great! I will need to find a way to secure the front pulley with a ratchet
while I torque the flywheel bolts on. I have Freshly painted the engine mounts and engine accessory brackets so it looks good.

I have a question regarding packing the oil pump.
How should I prime it? I have seen people have issues with using grease. I filled it up with red assembly lube
and bolted it on. So it is definitely lubed up good. Would one suggest petroleum jelly?
I am going to convert a grease gun to shoot pressurized oil, that I will adapt to the oil pressure port to prime the system and get oil in every gallery. This alone will really help on the first start up.

For break-in I am doing 5 quarts of Joe Gibbs Driven BR Break-In Motor Oil as it is what 22RE performance recommends.
I will break the cam in on this 5 quarts, and I will drain the oil and change the filter and put 5 more quarts of the same stuff in for the first 400 miles.

[H8PVMNT]

For the oil pump, I have always just put a little assembly lube and a couple drips of oil on the moving parts when I assemble and then crank the engine over for about 20 seconds with the coil wire unhooked to get the oil primed and up into things.  Never had any issues with this method.


If you can force oil into the galleys it sure wouldn't hurt, but the assembly lube seems to do it's job.

[emsvitil]

For the oil pump, I have always just put a little assembly lube and a couple drips of oil on the moving parts when I assemble and then crank the engine over for about 20 seconds with the coil wire unhooked to get the oil primed and up into things.  Never had any issues with this method.


If you can force oil into the galleys it sure wouldn't hurt, but the assembly lube seems to do it's job.

With the spark plugs removed........

[Gnarly4X]

On priming the oil pump.... Some engine builders recommend Vaseline, some just motor oil, some assembly lube.  I don't think it's a major issue as long as some lubrication is in the pump and you don't pack it with some kind of grease that is thicker than Vaseline.  Vaseline dissolves quickly once it's mixes with motor oil.

Yeah... spark plug removed to crank engine to get oil pressure up before first firing.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

... For break-in I am doing 5 quarts of Joe Gibbs Driven BR Break-In Motor Oil as it is what 22RE performance recommends.  I will break the cam in on this 5 quarts, and I will drain the oil and change the filter and put 5 more quarts of the same stuff in for the first 400 miles.

Draining break-in oil right after the 20 minutes of cam break-in seems unnecessary.  At $10 per quart, I changed the break-in oil (Royal Purple) at about 200 miles, and put in dino 10w-40.

Gnarls.

[Toybrota]

Hey Gnarls, I would agree about it being unnessacary, I just wanted to to make sure it was clean oil and a clean filter. But the oil will only be in there for 400 miles before I switch to a dino oil. So the filter will work just fine.
It sounds like I don't need to do any priming if It already has assembly lube. I will pull the pump off before I turn it over and put some more in. Assembly lube coupled with forcing oil into the channels will be enough.
I am going to ensure there is no plugs in and that the coil wire and fuel line are disconnected. That way there is no fuel washing of the cylinders.

[:)bestgen4runner]

Alright why is everyone rocking the Dino oil?
What am I missing?

[Toybrota]

Alright why is everyone rocking the Dino oil?
What am I missing?

Good question. 22RE performance doesn't recommended synthetic at all, during or after break-in. I wonder why.

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[:)bestgen4runner]

Good question. 22RE performance doesn't recommended synthetic at all, during or after break-in. I wonder why.

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Alright somebody with an in at 22re Perf needs to find out why for us.  Gnarly? 300K? Dingdong?

[Toybrota]

Got this Sucker in today! It is going in my 85' single cab 4x4. New transmission within the last 20K!
First Motor I've installed. At 19 years old it's not impressive, I've known younger that have! It was an interesting process.
Prior to install I did:
Transmission input shaft seal/gasket
Rear main installed/freshly machined flywheel and new clutch kit.

I DIDN'T drop the transmission during the install, Toyota recommends it in the FSM last time I checked.
I got the bell housing and the block lined up and bolted it together pulling both assemblies together.
It wouldn't slide together as I had heavily painted the motor which got on the rear alignment dowels.

I'm really eager to get it going!

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[300k]

Alright somebody with an in at 22re Perf needs to find out why for us.  Gnarly? 300K? Dingdong?

I think their idea is that if it's not broke don't fix it. They were built for dino oil, and they ran for 300,000 miles on dino oil without issues. That being said I'm not sure if I agree with it because the oil from the 80s and 90s isn't the oil you find on the shelves today (thanks EPA, dicks) 

[Toybrota]

I think their idea is that if it's not broke don't fix it. They were built for dino oil, and they ran for 300,000 miles on dino oil without issues. That being said I'm not sure if I agree with it because the oil from the 80s and 90s isn't the oil you find on the shelves today (thanks EPA, dicks) 

That's for sure. Way less zinc. I plan to run a zinc additive regularly.

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[Slabzilla]

That's a thing of beauty, an installed engine ready for duty, good job.  I wish you many trouble-free miles and smiles.   

[helipilot77]

I was always told by the mechanic who built the motors in the helicopters to fill them with dino for the first couple oil changes while they continue to break-in. He said that sythetic was too slippery and didnt allow the parts to continue lap together as they wear in.

[Toybrota]

A close-up of the motor. I installed the air-cleaner today. Looking pretty good I think!
Stock Aisin Carb + LCE Aisin to 5 1/8" carb adapter with a specter air filter.
Completely de-smogged carb with all cold start equipment still in place.

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[Toybrota]

The small stuff of left to do:

-Pan seal
-Vacuum lines
-Rad clean/install
-prime oil system
-transmission fill (Synthetic Mobil Gear oil as suggested by Gnarly)
-Oil Prime
-Distributor time
-Break-in

Small list easily done in a few cold days.
Thinking about warming the motor up with a space heater prior to first start up. Dumb idea or good idea?

Title came for it as well, I lucked out for Registration prices. It was $70 for my Xtracab, no emissions or safety. I expect it to be similar for this truck.

I may take it to an emissions place to see how far off the pipe readings are once it's broken in, I'm curious how clean these de-smogged 22R's run. Cat is staying.

Oh and carpet, can't stand bare floors!


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[OVRAROK]

I would fill transmission with redline mt90. It's the best for these old toyota transmissions.