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But my concern is the GL-4 vs GL-5 grades. Toyota wants GL-4 since it doesn't ruin brass syncros. The only GL-4 I know is redline.
You may know something about the chemical differences between GL4 and GL5. You may also know exactly what the specific metallurgy and alloy formulation is on the synchros that are in your transmission. I do know that my transmission shop would only install Toyota factory synchos in my 5-speed transmissions, and told me that some aftermarket synchros have incorrect alloy that cause a problem with proper co-efficient of friction and lock-up. They didn’t mention anything about gear oil compatibility.When I spoke to Redline technical department back in 1995, Redline did recommend MTL which is GL-4 for my transmission. MT-90 is also GL-4.I believe there is sufficient information now that the early formulations of gear oils with reactive sulfurs, that caused a problem with corrosion in copper alloys, are no longer used in modern gear oil formulations.I don’t believe ExxonMobil, the largest USA oil producer, is going to sell a synthetic gear oil that will destroy synchronizer gears in a massive number vehicles with manual transmissions still being driven world-wide.Here’s an interesting short video on the comparison:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHwULF-EdtQTo sleep well at night, using a high quality GL-4 oil in our transmissions won’t hurt.That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless. Gnarls.
Sorry to hear...
Hey everyone, today I found out that we lost a fellow Toyota owner. He was the one who sent me this intake manifold on my truck. His name was Connor Gillmore, didn't know him personally but I have a mission to dedicate this build to him.Rest in peace the gr8pumpkin! Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
What the? I assume you're talking about Congill77 because he had that orange 4runner called the gr8punkin.That's really sad to hear. please please please wear your seat belts people.
More info required
https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/one-injured-after-car-rolls-into-tree-in-west-greeley/https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/greeley-22-year-old-who-died-after-suffering-injuries-in-crash-identified/https://www.greeleytribune.com/news/obituary-for-connor-gillmore/Those worked for me yesterday but now they seem to be hidden behind a registration wall. maybe it's cause I visited them more than once?Very sad news.
For the oil pump, I have always just put a little assembly lube and a couple drips of oil on the moving parts when I assemble and then crank the engine over for about 20 seconds with the coil wire unhooked to get the oil primed and up into things. Never had any issues with this method. If you can force oil into the galleys it sure wouldn't hurt, but the assembly lube seems to do it's job.
... For break-in I am doing 5 quarts of Joe Gibbs Driven BR Break-In Motor Oil as it is what 22RE performance recommends. I will break the cam in on this 5 quarts, and I will drain the oil and change the filter and put 5 more quarts of the same stuff in for the first 400 miles.
Alright why is everyone rocking the Dino oil?What am I missing?
Good question. 22RE performance doesn't recommended synthetic at all, during or after break-in. I wonder why.Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Alright somebody with an in at 22re Perf needs to find out why for us. Gnarly? 300K? Dingdong?
I think their idea is that if it's not broke don't fix it. They were built for dino oil, and they ran for 300,000 miles on dino oil without issues. That being said I'm not sure if I agree with it because the oil from the 80s and 90s isn't the oil you find on the shelves today (thanks EPA, dicks)
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